I put a deposit down on a 2004 GMC Sierra yesterday. I should have it by the end of the week. So, now I need to find a good online resource for any questions on maintenance, repairs, etc. I've done a few Google searches but wondered if anyone had any recommendations based on their experiences with some of the forums?
I don't personally know of any forums specifically but I was a GM tech for a Chevy dealer for 11 years up until the end of 2011 so if you need anything feel free to PM me.
------------------ Fiero's Owned:
1987 Coupe 2.5 5spd May 99 - June 03 1987 GT V6 5spd July 30 2012 - Current
My advise.....check the brake lines.....seriously. GM trucks form this period had only mild steel lines that liked to rust. especially check down low in the engine bay near the ABS controller. My father's 2004 below the lines otu last year and needed a entire re-plumb job. My 02 Chevy is still holding on withotu blowing a line out yet.
I have the full g.m. dealer shop manuals for the 2004 chevy/gmc trucks.. it is 5 books all about 4"+ thick.. I don't have the truck anymore.. I paid 450.00.. Fiero bargain price of 50.oo + shipping.. and you have all the info you can stand..
My advise.....check the brake lines.....seriously. GM trucks form this period had only mild steel lines that liked to rust. especially check down low in the engine bay near the ABS controller. My father's 2004 below the lines otu last year and needed a entire re-plumb job. My 02 Chevy is still holding on withotu blowing a line out yet.
Double that. I went to take my daughter to pick up her car at a shop, and when I pulled in blew the brake line to the rear brakes on my 98GMC.
Edit - I have a 2005 Silverado. It's been quite reliable, other than little stuff. The short list of things that I've done or that need doing... .Blower resistor harness. (Covered by recall.) .Water pump gasket has slow leak. (Just need to replace water pump.) .Code for evap system. (repaired broken wire on purge solenoid.) .Sluggish shifting. Minor "flare". I hate the way GM automatics shift. (Reprogrammed PCM with "tow/haul" shift speed/firmness in "normal" mode.) .HVAC temperature control servo needs replacement. (Occasional hot air from vents at "full cold" setting. A common issue.) Driver's side is easily accessible, under the dash. Passenger side replacement requires dash removal.
If you have an "add on" iPod controller, pay attention to this... They are installed in the harness between the radio and the BCM, and can "noise up" the CANBUS. Causes all sorts of seemingly unrelated electrical gremlins. (Dash lights and courtesy lights that randomly won't come on or go off. Radio won't work. Power windows won't work. Other odd things that require battery disconnection to reset.) I have seen this affect two different GM CANBUS vehicles. My 2005 Silverado, and our 2004 Trailblazer.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 08-21-2016).]
I have the full g.m. dealer shop manuals for the 2004 chevy/gmc trucks.. it is 5 books all about 4"+ thick.. I don't have the truck anymore.. I paid 450.00.. Fiero bargain price of 50.oo + shipping.. and you have all the info you can stand..
Hell of a price. If Formula doesn't take them, I will.
My advise.....check the brake lines.....seriously. GM trucks form this period had only mild steel lines that liked to rust. especially check down low in the engine bay near the ABS controller. My father's 2004 below the lines otu last year and needed a entire re-plumb job. My 02 Chevy is still holding on withotu blowing a line out yet.
I checked my truck and it looks amazingly clean for the age and mileage. If the brake lines had rusted, they appear to have been replaced. It does look like there was aftermarket undercoating done at some point. I'll give them a more through inspection when I have time to crawl around under it a bit more. I'm going to redo the rear brakes before long anyway since the rotors look like they need resurfacing.
Edit - I have a 2005 Silverado. It's been quite reliable, other than little stuff. The short list of things that I've done or that need doing... .Blower resistor harness. (Covered by recall.) .Water pump gasket has slow leak. (Just need to replace water pump.) .Code for evap system. (repaired broken wire on purge solenoid.) .Sluggish shifting. Minor "flare". I hate the way GM automatics shift. (Reprogrammed PCM with "tow/haul" shift speed/firmness in "normal" mode.) .HVAC temperature control servo needs replacement. (Occasional hot air from vents at "full cold" setting. A common issue.) Driver's side is easily accessible, under the dash. Passenger side replacement requires dash removal.
If you have an "add on" iPod controller, pay attention to this... They are installed in the harness between the radio and the BCM, and can "noise up" the CANBUS. Causes all sorts of seemingly unrelated electrical gremlins. (Dash lights and courtesy lights that randomly won't come on or go off. Radio won't work. Power windows won't work. Other odd things that require battery disconnection to reset.) I have seen this affect two different GM CANBUS vehicles. My 2005 Silverado, and our 2004 Trailblazer.
Good info. Already had the temp control flake out. Heater out the driver side, cold AC out the passenger. Shut off the engine and restarted and it worked normally. It must run on Windows and I needed to reboot it. If it keeps up I'll replace the actuator.
Only put about 500 miles on it so far, but so far so good. *fingers crossed* Those front brake sure do generate a LOT of brake dust, though. When i look at the rear, I think I'm going to have a close look at all the brakes just to be sure.
Originally posted by Formula88: Good info. Already had the temp control flake out. Heater out the driver side, cold AC out the passenger. Shut off the engine and restarted and it worked normally. It must run on Windows and I needed to reboot it. If it keeps up I'll replace the actuator. ...
Yep. A reboot usually fixes it temporarily. If it happens. I've been "gonna replace the actuator" for at least two years, now.
If you listen really carefully, you can hear the clicking from under the dash. Driver's side, center. Right at the tunnel. If you move the temp control just a bit, you may get it to stop.
What information I've been able to find leads me to believe the automatic and manual A/C systems use different actuators. But GM has so many different part numbers, it's difficult to tell.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 09-13-2016).]
I guess I can see the desire for automatic temperature control, but it seems like a lot of extra complexity when a simple "Hot / Cold" temperature lever has worked for decades. Not all the gadgets seem silly, though. I do like the power fold in mirrors. That's very convenient in parking lots.
I guess I can see the desire for automatic temperature control, but it seems like a lot of extra complexity when a simple "Hot / Cold" temperature lever has worked for decades. ...
It also seems silly that the manual version has a sliding potentiometer that controls a servo (through the BCM, of course) when a cable attached to a door will work just as well.
