Does anyone have a 3D printing schematic for the driver's side plastic recline cover? The one on Dad's original Mr. Mike's seats is broken in three places (center tab, and both screw holes are broken). I'm hoping someone might have some .stl files read to go...otherwise I guess I'm taking a trip to the junkyard...

Thanks,
D

Don't have a 3D file, but The Fiero Store has them. 84-88 Seat Mechanism Cover

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1988 Pontiac Fiero GT, Black w/Beechwood interior
Featured in the 2018 Fiero Store calendar month of May
2018 Volkswagen Golf GTI S

quote Originally posted by California Kid: Does anyone have a 3D printing schematic for the driver's side plastic recline cover? The one on Dad's original Mr. Mike's seats is broken in three places (center tab, and both screw holes are broken). I'm hoping someone might have some .stl files read to go...otherwise I guess I'm taking a trip to the junkyard... Thanks, D

If I'm thinking of the right thing, the screw holes are easy, they're just cylinders with a hole down the middle.



Here's OpenSCAD for them

code:

---

$fn=50;

high=13; // there are two, one 5mm and one 13mm

difference()
{
	color("blue") cylinder(d=15, h=high, center=true);
	color("blue") cylinder(d=7, h=high+.1, center=true);
}

---

You can modify as you see fit.

The middle might be like #6 on

http://www.mrmikes.com/fieroquestions.htm

center of my pic above, which I think I did with something like

code:

---

$fn=50;

thick=8;

color("blue") cube(size=[18,7.5,thick], center=true);

translate(v=[14,0,0])
{
	difference()
	{
		color("red") cube(size=[10,15,thick], center=true);
		translate(v=[1,0,0]) color("black") cylinder(h=thick+.1, d=3, center=true);
	}
}

---

You can get OpenSCAD from openscad.org, load the text above and hit F6 to render, then F7 to export to STL (assuming Windows, Mac might be different.) You can then modify-scale-whatever as you see fit, so I figure it's better than just giving you my STL's which worked for me but might not for you. Open source Fiero parts, right?

And, as pointed out, if that's too much or yours are too far gone to patch or you can't find 'em the PickNPull, TFS can get you nice ones too.

-- A

[This message has been edited by dremu (edited 06-09-2020).]

Dude!

That's awesome! Way better than printing the whole thing. Thanks for the lead. I'll be sure to post an update with the results.

D

I'd like to make a suggestion (And hopefully take my own advice...Jeez)...Make a list of the small items on your car that may need replacement in the future- especially the really small stuff that fits in your pocket.....Then, when you at at the JY grab those items...I have some spare stuff- including seat mech covers.

Just recently I have realized I should have grabbed a bunch of stuff- 2nd gen headlight harness and module, door handles, side marker light covers (I have all of both styles except the one (Right rear ribbed) that I need) Trunk switch, etc....

MAKE a LIST!!!!! (That is an ORDER!!!)

Anyone got a glue recommendation for bonding the 3D printed parts to seat trim piece?

D

quote Originally posted by California Kid: Anyone got a glue recommendation for bonding the 3D printed parts to seat trim piece? D

I would Like to ask the same for fixing a broken tab in a coolant reservoir tank... I don’t know if JB weld or epoxy would be the best.

quote Originally posted by Zentaury: I would Like to ask the same for fixing a broken tab in a coolant reservoir tank... I don’t know if JB weld or epoxy would be the best.

Is it actually 'in' the tank? Or a mounting tab externally?

Plastic welding with a piece of mesh pressed in while the plastic is hot would be best. You can bevel the edge of the broken seam on each part then fill the area with HDPE plastic rod, or milk jug plastic works perfectly and is also HDPE grade plastic. I did this on a number of reservoirs over the years when I flipped cars/restorations for supplementary income.

[This message has been edited by Steel (edited 06-22-2020).]

I'm a big proponent of the printer when it makes sense ... if you need a whole new (whatever), because the tab / tube / mount is broken, or if it's a complicated or totally unavailable part, then you print it:



But yeah, if you're just patching an existing piece that's cracked, then you get scrap and glue the snot out of it. Quicker and simpler than reinventing the wheel. If you've not used a printer, you don't realize how excrutiatngly slow a process it can be to design a thing, print it, discover that it needs adjustment here and there, change the design slightly, print again ... it's a very iterative process.

For instance, I'm cleaning up the T-top end caps. They're not quite bad enough that I need to replace them outright, but there's cracks and chips and broken tubes. The tubes I'll print the tubes, as above, but the cracks and chips will get fabbed by hand. I figure hit them with the Dremel and the cyanoacrylate gel, and after prodigious filing and sanding and paint, plastic gods willing, nobody will notice the patchwork.

-- A

[This message has been edited by dremu (edited 06-22-2020).]