Is there anywhere that you can buy new rear inner tie rods? All I can find is the fronts and the Fiero Store has them listed but says they won't have any in stock til December. Mine are rusted to crap and trying to decide if its worth putting in the effort to clean them up and paint them. Would just go ahead and do it if there wasn't a hundred other things I need to do to finish my swap and a parts car in my driveway that I need to strip and get rid of asap.
I just did that same exact job a few weeks ago. The rear adjusting links ( as I call them ) were extremely rusted, and I had replacements stored away that I bought years ago. the job was a lot more difficult than planned because every bolt was very stubborn to remove. I had to use a cut off wheel to get the one in the cradle out. Then I had to lock them in a vice to loosen and disassemble them. Since I was in there I removed the splash guadrs and inner wheel wells , brushed the frame and suspension, and gave everything a fresh coat of Rustoleum. I also replace the sway bar links with new poly ones from F.S. The job was well worth it and it looks great, not to mention that there will be no alinement problems when I take it to a shop. So if you want smooth sailing, you may want to wait until Fiero Store gets them in. If you want to save the cash, then try cleaning them up yourself. Just spray everything down with a rust penetrant like PB Blaster a day before you start the project. Note : are the 88's different ? I have an 88 Formula.
I just did that same exact job a few weeks ago. The rear adjusting links ( as I call them ) were extremely rusted, and I had replacements stored away that I bought years ago. the job was a lot more difficult than planned because every bolt was very stubborn to remove. I had to use a cut off wheel to get the one in the cradle out. Then I had to lock them in a vice to loosen and disassemble them. Since I was in there I removed the splash guadrs and inner wheel wells , brushed the frame and suspension, and gave everything a fresh coat of Rustoleum. I also replace the sway bar links with new poly ones from F.S. The job was well worth it and it looks great, not to mention that there will be no alinement problems when I take it to a shop. So if you want smooth sailing, you may want to wait until Fiero Store gets them in. If you want to save the cash, then try cleaning them up yourself. Just spray everything down with a rust penetrant like PB Blaster a day before you start the project. Note : are the 88's different ? I have an 88 Formula.
From old friend Anthony Cook from Nova Scotia. Formerly Jelly2M8 on the forum. Anthony could not find replacements so he came up with this alternative. For the 84-87 rear inner tie rod use a Front Tie Rod from a 1990 Chevy Lumina but the rod needs some slight changes to make it fit. . Moog part number EV195 . Use the old tie rod to make a stud by cutting off the threaded area. Screw this stud into the Lumina tie rod end that has the inner threads but not so far as to bind the rod end. . Secure that stud with locktite, two washers and a nut. Now you have a tie rod with threads on both ends. Slightly enlarge the mounting hole on the frame bracket and use another nut and a lock washer to hold it in place. According to Anthony he did this mod on 20 cars all with no ill effects and lasting results. Or buy the exact replacement tie rod from Rodney Dickman.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Thanks for the responses everyone. I think for now I am going to clean them up and try and use them for a while at least. I submerged the threaded half in some Evapo-Rust overnight and they look a lot better. I didn't know Rodney Dickman sold them so appreciate that info. Will probably end up buying new ones down the road but I think for now I'm going to spend my money getting the engine swap finished.
Wooo man, almost forgot to tell you this....If your going to totally disassemble the links, which I imagine you are, make sure you measure their length and mark each side with the correct measurement. This way when you screw them back together, you should be very close to the same length they where before you took them out. This should prevent your wheels from being to far out of alignment. I'd suggest take the car for a 4 wheel alignment once she's all back together.
Yeah I thought about that but figured with the engine swap, poly cradle and control arm bushings, new shocks, bigger wheels etc it would need re aligned anyway. Probably would have been a good idea to get it close at least but I figure the ol 2x4 and string alignment will be good enough for testing the engine and trans around the block and get it aligned later on. Probably won't get to that point for at least a few months. Thanks for the suggestions!
Hey, I got one more suggestion for ya ! STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS ! Every nut and bolt I replaced with stainless steel ones. This way you'll never have a seized bolt again due to rust issues. Looks great too ! Matter of fact, every job I did or do includes the stainless steel fastener replacement.
Hey, I got one more suggestion for ya ! STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS ! Every nut and bolt I replaced with stainless steel ones. This way you'll never have a seized bolt again due to rust issues. Looks great too ! Matter of fact, every job I did or do includes the stainless steel fastener replacement.
Hey, I got one more suggestion for ya ! STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS ! Every nut and bolt I replaced with stainless steel ones. This way you'll never have a seized bolt again due to rust issues. Looks great too ! Matter of fact, every job I did or do includes the stainless steel fastener replacement.
Due to a low carbon content, stainless steel cannot be hardened, which makes these bolts significantly weaker than a hardened steel bolt. Stainless steel bolts excel in their resistance to corrosion but depending on the alloy they may not be up to even grade 3 standards. I use them where optimal strength is not needed like where the manifolds bolt to the block or on the exhaust flanges.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
According to ARP's website, their stainless steel has a tensile strength of 170000 psi, which is slightly above that of the factory class 10.9 hardware.
That said, I wouldn't touch el-cheapo stainless bolts.
