Does anyone out there have any experience with Norma's CV boot clamps?
I'm in the process of replacing one of the CV boot clamps, drivers side. My preference would be a banding type boot clamp! In the process of searching for a vendor I came across Norma's CV clamps. I kinda like them since they really are just a big hose clamp specifically designed for CVs.
[This message has been edited by Cajun (edited 04-23-2018).]
Most worms can unbalance the CV. You may not feel this but everything connected to it can have problems.
OE clamps need a tool and 1/2" breaker bar and torque wrench. Is another that works sim to "Zip ties" but needs tools to tighten properly. Tools are available thru Lisle tools (sold at many part store) and others.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I plan on using the Norma CV clamp. The clamp specifications are what I'm looking for; 9mm width & the right lenght. Besides they are advertised for CV use.
They have to better than the situation I have now with the C V leaking.
FWIW, I tried a worm style clamp on mine as an experiment, and found the "worm" stuck out too far and was hitting on each revolution. Went back to the stock style clamps available at NAPA. I also tried the universal style CV clamps from O'reilly's, but found they were not the right size, and failed.
NAPA part looks like a small clamp for axle shaft. Even that have different sizes.
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Originally posted by darbysan: FWIW, I tried a worm style clamp on mine as an experiment, and found the "worm" stuck out too far and was hitting on each revolution. Went back to the stock style clamps available at NAPA.
That happen a lot too. Many big CV's clamps are very close to other parts like bottom of struts.
Originally posted by 2.5: Have part numbers or mm size? I cant seem to find any on Napas website that say they fit the Fiero.
You normally have to measure the OD of the CV boot ends and then find the clamps with the appropriate range. With 2 different axle thicknesses and lots of different tripods and CV housings that could have been adapted or replaced over the years, it is best to measure what you have and use that info to find the right ones.
Originally posted by 2.5: I noticed mine is not pinched as tightly as they do in this vid. I am getting the tool and tightening the one I have, and see if that fixes the seep.
I may take it off and inspect how much grease is in there first...how much should there be? Can there be too much?
Yes. Too much and grease gets hot and expanse and blow boot or clamp. Many CV leak because too much grease and/or Clamp not installed right.
For OE type This is more accurate at the end but like most don't cover how to torque w/ breaker and torque wrench. Most YT videos are done poorly or worse and no one I found have correct data to use correct tool. You can't use any cutters w/o problems later. Real crimp ear tools are made w/ dull edges so can't "cut" the clamp (most won't cut fully but create stress making them weak) and edges won't be too sharp to prevent getting proper crimp shape. Many use "zip tie" metal clamps and also does not tighten w/ a wrench and leak after. Hand lever to tighten is to take up slack before tighten w/ a wrench.
FSM calls for 100ftlb for small clamp, 130ftlb for big clamp, for inner and outer CV but GM also use harder boot at the time... Lisle and other tool has handles that helps to "pre tighten" better then GM/KM J-34773 tool in the book so clamp won't move while working but needs proper torque to seal. Could try less force/torque if aftermarket clamps are thinner or use "rubber" boots instead harder plastic (Thermoplastic or PVC I think) boots as GM used but often can't to it by hand alone. (I have a rubber boot leaking at the clamp but very little grease leaks and don't drive enough to matter.)
This data is often in Chilton and Haynes books too but very few bother to read them. Alldata might have this but can't find it right now.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 04-27-2018).]
I have purchased two types of CV boot clamps, one a Norma 90-110 9mm wide (hose type) clamp and one banding type CV boot clamp. I did not purchase an original type CV boot clamp as I did not have the proper tools for it's installation. I do in fact have a banding tool.
I bit the bullet and went with the Norma clamp. It was the only one that I could locate that has a 9mm width. All the other types were 7mms in width. I wanted to 9mm width clamp at the very lease.
Upon installing the Norma clamp I noticed that the existing CV clamp was loose as I could move it side to side and back and forth, thus the leak. The Norma clamp clears any interference from the cradle frame. No issues there.
I have found that any clamps that have any sort of screw system will make contact when spinning. Surprised there is clearance. I find that only banding tools work as doesn't have too much pretruding.
Static clearance is often different w/ engine/trans loads on the highway making both move in/on their mounts. Single Screw can unbalance the axle. You want 2 screws 180° apart to keep balance.
