My gen 2 3800sc 88 formula seems to have a lot of bounds in the back end. It is on KYBs and I believe FS lowering springs.
I am looking to stiffen it up some to use on autocrossing, but don't want it to hard that i can't drive it somewhat comfortably. To put more into the mix i pull a HF trailer with about 75-80 toungue weight when driving cross country.
I am thinking coilovers. What is everyone using. I need to keep this in the cheaper end and am willing on cutting perches of but i don't have access to a welder.
I want to keep it dropped 1 inch or so. I will also be installing FS trailing arm kit with the poly bushings
Fronts I plan on running KYBs with 350 spring weight lowering springs?
If you could provide sources of parts for building your own that would be great
Sleeve length? Spring length? Spring weight? (Thinking 350-400) Shocks used? (Koni, kyb, other straight boot in?)
I have already connected Held/Arraut to see if they had any left. Are west coast Fieros kits any good?
Thanks in advance. ------------------ LETS GO DRIVING!!! [
Power Tour Long Haul 2009, 10 (muscle car) Power Tour Long Haul 2011, 12, 15(Fiero) Power Tour 3 stops 2013(Fiero) Power Tour 2 stops 2016
[This message has been edited by ltlgt88 (edited 12-17-2017).]
//www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/121690.html I used kyb struts, got my 7" sleeves off amazon for $30'ish, can't remember. Also got I think 12" 300 lb springs off summit racing. Altogether I might have $300 at most including struts.
I have a 4.9 swap by the way and find it tad stiff, but comfortable. I could see why you want to go heavier though. He did an excellent write up and makes it a breeze to do your own. Good luck and Merry Christmas everyone.
//www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/121690.html I used kyb struts, got my 7" sleeves off amazon for $30'ish, can't remember. Also got I think 12" 300 lb springs off summit racing. Altogether I might have $300 at most including struts.
What size sleeves?
Did the 12in springs alow you to lower the car? And alow enough wheel drop with out making out strut first?
[This message has been edited by ltlgt88 (edited 12-20-2017).]
On my LS4/auto Fiero I have Koni struts with 7” sleeves, 12” 325# eibach springs. On my 3800SC/5speed Fiero I have kyb struts with 7” sleeves, 10” 300# eibach springs.
On my LS4/auto Fiero I have Koni struts with 7” sleeves, 12” 325# eibach springs. On my 3800SC/5speed Fiero I have kyb struts with 7” sleeves, 10” 300# eibach springs.
I have Koni rear struts with coilover conversions on my 88. I think the springs are #300 12" from Summit racing. I had to grind the gland nuts down slightly to fit the sleeves. The engine is a 3800 L32 with a Getrag.
The ride is not too stiff and the car handles great.
If you decide on Konis I would get a set while they are available. Koni had quit making them for Fieros and at one point wasn't going to make any more.
I had ordered a set from Tire Rack and after waiting a bit Tire Rack called and said they weren't available and Koni wouldn't be making any more. A couple of months later I got a call from Tire Rack that Koni had made a run of them and I finally got a pair.
For a strut coilover conversion you need a 2.5" inside diameter minimum 12" long. If you go on Summit racing web site type QA1 coil springs and they will pop up . Refine your search by picking the inside diameter and the length of spring and weight. Once you do that it will take you to a bunch of similar springs. Some are chrome plated, powder coated and a variety of colours. Happy hunting... In a straight wound coil spring outside diameter is determined by the thicknes of wire so is not relevent and not usually shown.
[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 12-27-2017).]
For a strut coilover conversion you need a 2.5" inside diameter minimum 12" long. If you go on Summit racing web site type QA1 coil springs and they will pop up . Refine your search by picking the inside diameter and the length of spring and weight. Once you do that it will take you to a bunch of similar springs. Some are chrome plated, powder coated and a variety of colours. Happy hunting... In a straight wound coil spring outside diameter is determined by the thicknes of wire so is not relevent and not usually shown.
Your talking about 2.5 for spring diameter?
What about sleeve diameter? Kyb,monroe, koni?
12 inch will give me enough lowering (1-2inchs) and travel?
What length of sleeve?
Do i need a top hat or anything for the top?
[This message has been edited by ltlgt88 (edited 12-27-2017).]
Inside spring diameter is what springs for coilovers are sized at. You have 2 choices : 2" ID or 2.5" ID. Only 2.5" ID will fit over a strut.
I used to have KYB struts on my car. They worked quite well. I did not want to shell out for Konis.
A 12" spring will let you lower your car up to 2". For a 3800 use 300 lb or stronger depending on how stiff you want the car to be.
I have no idea how big or long the coilover sleave needs to be. There is a do it youself thread on here, I bought a kit from Arraut, no longer in production. West coast Fiero sells kits and Ebay and places like Andy's auto sport.Summit probably too if you look hard enough. Kits usually come with whatever top mount you need or they will tell you what to buy. Search is your friend...
[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 12-27-2017).]
I used a 7" sleeve and a 12" spring and it allowed me to lower 2" just fine. Allowed enough travel. I would post a pic, but car is back in the air for engine refresh. Don't need to buy top hat, can reuse original.
If you want to use the weld bead of the stock spring perch to support the coilover sleeve (less grinding work and more tire clearance), then you want 4 3/4" long sleeve (max), and 10" or shorter springs. If you want to grind the weld bead flush and rest the sleeve on the lower mounting ear flange, then there is 8 1/2" to work with. A 7" sleeve is fine and a 12" spring will be fine.
You will need a method to center the spring at the top. Welding a 2" long piece of exhaust tubing to the stock strut hat bushing plate works well for this (the exhaust tubing should be about 1/4" larger than the OD of the spring). While doing this, weld 3 bolts to the bottom of the strut hat bushing plate, this will allow you to toss the upper spring perch plate that has the mounting studs on it.
Since you have a an 88 fastback and lowered, flip the strut hat bushing plate (do this before you weld on the exhaust tubing and bolts), it will give you 1" more suspension travel in compression and reduce the risk of bottoming out the strut. You can do this on the notchies as well, but there is some trimming to the vent flange on the 88's and to the decklid on the 84-87s.
If you want to use the weld bead of the stock spring perch to support the coilover sleeve (less grinding work and more tire clearance), then you want 4 3/4" long sleeve (max), and 10" or shorter springs. If you want to grind the weld bead flush and rest the sleeve on the lower mounting ear flange, then there is 8 1/2" to work with. A 7" sleeve is fine and a 12" spring will be fine.
You will need a method to center the spring at the top. Welding a 2" long piece of exhaust tubing to the stock strut hat bushing plate works well for this (the exhaust tubing should be about 1/4" larger than the OD of the spring). While doing this, weld 3 bolts to the bottom of the strut hat bushing plate, this will allow you to toss the upper spring perch plate that has the mounting studs on it.
Since you have a an 88 fastback and lowered, flip the strut hat bushing plate (do this before you weld on the exhaust tubing and bolts), it will give you 1" more suspension travel in compression and reduce the risk of bottoming out the strut. You can do this on the notchies as well, but there is some trimming to the vent flange on the 88's and to the decklid on the 84-87s.
I dont have a welder...looking for bolt in
What inner diameter on sleeve do you suggest? Having trouble finding via search.
I used Dorman bump stops Part # 523-237, they are large enough in diameter to keep the coilover springs centered. I cut them about in half and used the bottom part that is tight on the strut shaft and tapered the cut end on a sander. So far they have worked good.