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Rescuing my dads old Fiero GT 1987 by Repulsiv
Started on: 09-28-2017 03:52 PM
Replies: 225 (6337 views)
Last post by: reinhart on 04-24-2023 06:40 AM
Repulsiv
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Report this Post09-28-2017 03:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello everyone.

First of all, I hope I post this in the right section..

Since I am new here I will start with a few words about me as a background.

I am a guy from Sweden that love cars and motorcycles, about 20 years ago I worked with cars too, but since then i went on to technican for printers/copiers, then I worked with IT (UNIX sysadmin) for 15 years, and now I work as a service engineer in aviation, ATC systems to be precise.

I have had many cars, but right now I have two Toyota Celica's, one GT (ST202, 175hp FWD with LSD), one GT-Four (ST205, 242hp turbo, 4WD LSD), and two saabs, one 9-5 SE that my girl drives, and a 9-5 Aero that I use as daily driver. I also have two old Suzuki motorcycles (GSX1100e and a GS500e)

Enough about that.

15 years ago my dad bought a blue metallic Fiero GT '87 (V6), once imported from US (but it have been in sweden for the last 20 years I think), the problem is that he havent used the car for nearly 10years, and the first 8 of those years it was parked outdoors, two years ago he built a garage and wanted to move the fiero into it, and just put in a battery, started it and drove it the 50m into the garage, parked it and there it have been since then.

Even before those 10 years it was hardly used for maybe 3-4 years, it was parked in a garage and he used it a few times a year or so, before this he actually used the car one summer, about 2000km.

To the point.

Now he is going to move from the house to an apartment, and since he own three cars he do not have any space for the fiero, I asked how he going to do it, and he said "I probably just leave it there and let the new owner of the house take it, he said it was ok", then I was "NOOOOOO" you cannot do that!

I really had to save the car, unfortunatly it was parked about 150km from where I live, and it's not road legal, so in the end I had to find a guy with a car transporter to transport it for me, less than a week before "date of no return".. puh!

Now the car stands here outside my house, the paint is in bad condition, the battery is dead and wont take charge, the inner roof hangs, the oil pressure meater peaks full to the right, the stereo doesnt work, all tires are crap, or well, they are "as new", except the sun have killed them, looks awful and not safe at all.

So now I have to transform this sad piece of car to a road legal fun to drive car.
My girlfriend (and mom of my kids) dont like it at all, and I had to do a lot of sweet-talking before I brought it home..

I was hoping that I could create this thread here and post about my progress, and at the same time post questions that I find during the way, I made such a thread when I was resurrecting my first SAAB 9-5 at the STCS (SAAB turbo Club Sweden) forum, and it was very polular among the members, and it became a great source of help for me, and a nice log what i actually did. (can post a link if someone is interested, but it is all in swedish..)

Glenn

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Report this Post09-28-2017 03:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
..I wanted to post some pictures of it here but havent been able to find out how to do that, do I have to post on another site and link it here ?
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Report this Post09-28-2017 04:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpadesluckSend a Private Message to SpadesluckEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
First, welcome to the forum and the fiero world. Thank you for the story.

Second, do a search for PIP. That is the program to post pictures that is best for this site. It will take a minute to get used to but it works just fine.
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Report this Post09-28-2017 04:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Welcome and Bravo for your taking on the restoration project and saving a Fiero. Tell your girlfriend that it's related to a Ferrari and maybe she'll ease up a little. After all, the 87 and 88 model year Fieros had a rebody commissioned by Pontiac and sold by Pontiac dealers that looked similar to a Ferrari 308GTB. It was called a Mera. Look it up on Google images.

At the bottom of this page is a red, white and blue logo for Pennocks Image Poster commonly called PIP. Click on that logo and follow the instructions. It doesn't work on mobile devices, so you will need to download to a PC or laptop. You'll also need an image resizing program. Resize to 1024 x 720 and they will be large enough to see clearly but not require scrolling the screen side to side to see all of the picture.

Offsite hostings have proven to be a problem with retention of pictures. Recently photobucket decided to hold everyone's photos hostage unless they began to pay a fee. Pictures in many build and restoration and technical threads disappeared, with only the text still available.
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Report this Post09-28-2017 04:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:

I wanted to post some pictures


Use PIP. Maximum image width - 1024 pixels. Maximum file size - 300 kb.

Welcome to the forum.
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Repulsiv
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Report this Post09-28-2017 05:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes, I am very aware of the problem of using off-site pictures, suddenly they change the rules or simply remove all "old" pictures, or well, stop existing.

Thanks for the lesson about posting pics here, I have never seen that variant before, but I guess it should work (but I have to resort to windows, I prefere linux..)

First try:



This is the "good side", i.e the side that was against the wall when my dad left the car standing outdoors for 8 years..
(You can also see my dads "husbil" behind it, he didnt have any space for that either, so he store it at our place for a while..)

This is how the paint looks on the other side..



..and...



..Not even mentioning the wing, that look totally awful



I'm not sure if this can be saved, or have to be repainted, but I will fist try to se if it is just the clear lacquer that is destroyed.. well, the wing is probably not saveable but the rest..

Here is other views of the car..





Anyway.. the tyres..



..Not very nice, I am in the process of get other ones, unfortunatly 215/60R15 seem to be a uncommon dimension, so I think i will go for 225/60R15 rear instead, and the original 205/60R15 front..

Well, the engine..



..Not very clean, but after 10 years..

The interior is "ok", except the inner roof that hangs, and I know its a very common problem on all brands of cars, I used to work in a company that did a lot of things, but one was to replace bad inner roofs..





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Report this Post09-28-2017 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Repulsiv

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I can post some thing that actually is good about the car..

- It's mine (Actually not legaly yet since my dad couldnt find the registration papers, but really soon..)
- It starts (with jumper cables)
- the brakes is not totally stuck (when I was restoring the old 9-5 I had to replace EVERYTHING, rotors, pads, hoses, brakelines and rebuild the calipers..)
- It seem to have adjustable koni dampers
- it also seem to have some form of performance chip "ADS super chip" ? ..not sure..
- No fungus inside, which is a common problem for a car stored outdoors a long time in Sweden
- Now it is 2017, which make the car 30 years old, that means it is classified as "classic", and that mean no road tax (only a very small yearly administrative fee), and cheaper insurance

..And the bad things I found out this far..

- The paint sucks..
- The battery is dead
- It's not road leagal, and havent been since 2007
- the oil pressure gauge does not work
- the stereo does not work
- the catalytic converter is removed (might be a good thing, since the swedish law only require this after model 1988 )
- the inner roof is a disaster

..My first steps will be..

- Get "new" tyres, I'm onto that, just hope that I can remove the wheels (I had that prob with the saab..)
- Replace the gasoline in the tank that is 10 years old
- Change oil and filter
- Put it thru "besiktningen", which is the swedish yearly inspection for safety that make the car road legal again.

One problem is that I cannot take it for a test drive and see how branes and other thing works without making it road legal FIRST.. before we used to have a special rule that you could test drive it after fixing the car, but since a lot of people misused that law it was removed..

As soon as it is road legal again I will try to fix the rest, unfortunatly the winter is coming and I do not have any space indoors, so when the snow come it have to pause.. also I have two kids and a full time work so..

Some quick questions..

- what kind of oil should I use ? ..I usally always go for fully synthetic, but is it wise for this car ? ..how much oil ? (No I do not have a owners manual, dad might have it somwhere..)

- Does it have pushrods, camchain or cambelt ? ..I guess it is pushrods ? ..then I dont have to think about replacing a old timing belt..

- How about cooling fluid, i belive this is a all iron cast engine, even the heads ? what type of glycol is best suited for this ? can I use a normal ethylene based long life glycol ? how much ?

- I also want to replace the brake fluid, but there im pretty sure I can just use a high quality DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid.. ?
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Report this Post09-28-2017 05:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:

Thanks for the lesson about posting pics here...

First try:


Congrats, success! And you even knew to enter a space between images. Excellent. Some long time members can never figure out how to properly post images here.
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Report this Post09-28-2017 05:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A Blue 87. What a gift! Everything on that car is salvageable, including the wing. A decent paint shop can bring it back to beautiful.
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Report this Post09-28-2017 06:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Congrats!

I could repeat what others have already posted, but I'll move on to what they didn't post. You really need to check the frame rails, trunk, etc for rust. Someone already replaced the exhaust tips. You'll need to replace all the fluids. Also, check the brake lines and the fuel hoses CAREFULLY. Probably all rubber hoses need to be replaced. Make sure to clean the debris out of the heater box--this causes a lot of fires.

Yes, this is a pushrod V6, with a cast iron block and a timing chain.

Check for wires eaten by rodents.
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Report this Post09-28-2017 06:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

tshark

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The oil pressure sender is probably bad, but when you replace it, upgrade to the '88 version.

The shift knob and floor mats are clearly aftermarket., and the inner door handles have been repainted.

While you have the fuel tank out, refurb/replace the fuel pump and sending unit, and the fuel filler hoses.

Does the radio not power on, or just no audio?
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Report this Post09-28-2017 07:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think i will let bilprovningen check for rust.. (but ofcourse I will look myself too ) living in a country with long winters and salt on the roads they are pretty used to find rust, this car howver never ben driving in the winters, but still have been standing outdoors for a long time.

I will replace the fluids, hence my questions, but now I actually found a 87 owners manual scanned on the net, so now atleast I know the viscosity and type of glycol and brake fluid

I will check hoses in the engine compatment, but it can be ahrd to see if they dont have any obvious cracks, once I blowed a colling hose on the highway (on my SAAB 9000CDE), it was just because of age, but it still didnt show any obvious signs of age. brake hoses where replaced when my dad bought the cars, but well, it was 15 years ago..

Heater box ? where ? and what ?

About the oil pressure gauge, I have readed threads here about replacing if with a 88+ sender unit, but they seem to be pretty expensive, especially when you need a pigtail too.. is there any good source for those two ?

I actually found a leather shift knob in the carm can be the original, but I dont know if it was replaced for a reason, must take another look

Is it easy to remove the fuel tank ? my idea was just sucking up all fuel, but ofcourse it would be better to clean it out.. ..fuel pump, is it a common problem that it goes bad ? because it obviously work now. ..if the fuel hsoes are standard hoses and no special fittings it would be easy and cheap to replace, and then it should be done..

The radio power on, but no sound, is it a common problem ? ..it also missing the volume knob.
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Report this Post09-28-2017 07:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:

Heater box ? where ? and what ?


It's been said before... but clean out your heater box before it's too late!
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Report this Post09-28-2017 08:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Easy to get a Fiero radio, but I'd recommend upgrading to the ones for sale in the Mall, here.

The fuel pumps go bad, yes. You need to get all the fuel out, along with whatever crud is in there. The tank has baffles in it, so hot-tanking is a bad idea.

You can get the filler hose from The Fiero Store. This is the rubber hose that ruptures and leaks gasoline all over around the cat. There are the fill/return lines, the wiring to the pump, and 2 straps holding the tank in. You drain most of the fuel out first, then get the remaining gallon or so after you drop the tank.

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-28-2017).]

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Report this Post09-28-2017 09:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

tshark

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Can you change the stations on the radio?
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Report this Post09-28-2017 09:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

tshark

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What are those orange lights on the fenders, between the front tires and the doors?

Make sure to check the engine mounts. The dogbone looks a bit off-center. Also, check the battery tray for rust.
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Report this Post09-28-2017 11:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A lot of data is my cave likely Battery and Battery Leaches.
Battery dead is normal here but other issues can kill a new battery fast.
Never try jump or charge a bad battery. Can kill the alternator w/ bad battery or cause big problems charging otherwise.

 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:
What are those orange lights on the fenders, between the front tires and the doors?
turn lights.
Is common requirement for EU countries and some other regions.
Also OE side markers are rewire to not blink.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

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Report this Post09-29-2017 05:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tshark:

Can you change the stations on the radio?


I will check that. Is it any standard problem that might be fixable ?


Another thing that doesnt work is the electronic opening of the engine lid, I hear that the solenoid make sound, but I still have to use the key.. but that might be because of the bad battery ?

..I simply couldnt find out how to open the front lid, but now I readed in the owners manual, so I will open it next time I go to the car, I wonder what surprises I will find there, its probably not opened for 10 years

About the fuel pump, are you saying it should be replaced even if it works ?

And as I asked before, should I use synthetic oil in this car ? ..I k now it partly depends on what previous owner used, but my dad did not do it himself so he haveno idea.

Would it be good to use GM Dexos 2 ? ..I use that in the SAAB's and its pretty cheap.

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Report this Post09-29-2017 09:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stubby79Send a Private Message to Stubby79Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That interior looks great for one that's not been restored. Especially that steering wheel!

I think you're starting off a few steps ahead, assuming sitting hasn't killed anything major.
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Report this Post09-29-2017 09:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I also noticed that the steering wheel looked very nice, often they are worn on older cars..

However, this car was in really nice condition when my dad bought it (pretty expensive too I think), its so sad that it have been outside 8 years, if he had it in a garage all the time it would have been much better.

..On the other hand, if it had been in a garage he probably sold it instead of giving it too me


Btw I did some reading and the chip wasn't very much of use as I understood it, can I just find the original firmware somwhere and burn a new EPROM with it ? ..I have the equipment for it.

I also wonder if the decat make any real difference in power ? I guess thats why its removed.. I found it in the trunk
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Report this Post09-29-2017 10:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Stubby79Send a Private Message to Stubby79Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:

I also noticed that the steering wheel looked very nice, often they are worn on older cars..

However, this car was in really nice condition when my dad bought it (pretty expensive too I think), its so sad that it have been outside 8 years, if he had it in a garage all the time it would have been much better.

..On the other hand, if it had been in a garage he probably sold it instead of giving it too me


Btw I did some reading and the chip wasn't very much of use as I understood it, can I just find the original firmware somwhere and burn a new EPROM with it ? ..I have the equipment for it.

I also wonder if the decat make any real difference in power ? I guess thats why its removed.. I found it in the trunk


That worked out in your favor then!

De-cat...these old cars were good at clogging up their cats, and the cats themselves were good at breaking up inside and plugging up...it might have restored some lost power. Actual gains? Probably nothing appreciable.
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Report this Post09-30-2017 12:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:
Btw I did some reading and the chip wasn't very much of use as I understood it, can I just find the original firmware somwhere and burn a new EPROM with it ? ..I have the equipment for it.

I also wonder if the decat make any real difference in power ? I guess thats why its removed.. I found it in the trunk
Yes can find code and Burn a chip... Covered in other threads, Search and view by date.

Cat in trunk means very little. Check the car to see if they really remove or replace and just left old cat.
Then check laws where you are. Do Not go by posts here. Many EU countries still require all emission parts on all cars and test them too.

No effect in Power to remove unless old one is plugged etc. If plugged or otherwise bad then often cause by other problem(s). Example Engine running rich or burning oil/coolant. If you replace and don't fix why then new one can die quickly too.
Old cats can be worth money. Some countries maybe illegal to throw them in trash.
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Report this Post09-30-2017 08:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofrenzySend a Private Message to fierofrenzyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello Glenn and welcome to both PFF and the Fiero craze !
I had a excellent time reading your post. And after seeing the pictures of the car, along with the fact that your in Sweeden, I , in my opinion, urge you to refurbish that Fiero. From what I can see, you have a very solid car to work with. I'd go a lot with what tshark had to tell you. Its the issue of rust that's most important. Anything else can be fixed or replaced. Theirs loads of sites offering Fiero parts. It really comes down to how much money you are willing to put into the car. Some of this stuff can get pricey.
And yes, wife and kids come first. : )
You mention the paint a lot too. Of corce any car sitting outside unprotected such as yours most probably will have paint issues. Your benefit is you have no rust or body cancer to deal with. One major benefit of those plastic body panels. Once all your mechanics are done, find your self a good paint shop and get a new coat of paint on the car. Believe me, once it rolls out of the shop, you"ll flip seeing how much it was worth it.
I can also tell you this. Once your car is complete and road ready, you'll be so proud of having such a unique automobile. I live in Georgia and own a 1988 yellow Formula. Every time I take this car for a drive....let me repeat myself, EVERY TIME, someone coments on their interest in the car in a very excited way. If this happens here, imagine your Fiero presence in Sweeden. FIX UP THAT CAR. Your dad will probably want it back....LOL
Finally, to help you get going, I have the stock factory radio/ cassette player lying around. I replaced mine with a factory CD player from a Firebird. I purchased it on Ebay. If you want this incase yours is bad, I'll give it to you. Just pay the shipping. Yes, I know, cassettes are outdated, but I don't need it and you can have it if you like. You can get back to me through steelpedal@gmail.com. I once shipped some stuff to a guy in Canada.
Well that's about it for now Glenn. Once again, you now have a true mid engine, American built, plastic bodied two seat sports car. How unique is that ! ? ! Take your time and fix her up. You'll be so proud once you did, and theres a very good chance you'll be the center of attention where ever you go. just remember, family first : )
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Report this Post09-30-2017 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
PIP works with Linux if you use Wine

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Report this Post10-03-2017 02:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I managed to open the front hood now after reading the manual, everything looked very clean there, even the spare tyre looked like new ..And to my surprise there was gas in the AC-system, so there does not seem to be a leak in it, my dad said it didnt even work when he bought it, and the mechanic that fixed the brakes nearly screamed right out when he asked about the AC, since it was an old R12 system he didnt even wanna touch it (R12 is not allowed here since about 25 years, I think the military still can use it but that's about it.) ..However I have seen replacement DIY canisters for it, that should be able to replace R12 without even changing the filter or oil.. dunno if it work..

Another thing that worries me a bit is that the cooling fluid tank was nearly empty, there was veeery little in the bottom of it, and it was also white residues on the walls.. hmm ? ..I was planning to replace all cooling fluid anyway but I really hope its not a leak somewhere.

What type of cooling is it ? is it the "european" style where the cooling tank is under pressure, or the "japanese" style where its not ? ..becuase the gasket on the cap on the tank was bad too..


I havent had much time at all for the car, so I havent even removed the wheels, but I'll try to do it soon.. I also have ordered oil filter and battery adapters (converting a battery with european poles to "american sidepoles"), and will try to change oil and filter before I trying to test drive the car (illegaly..) , not sure if I will change the colling fluid before, probably not.. I also readed that its not that easy since the system have long lines (because the mid-engine ofcourse)

Another thing that worries me is the broken oil pressure sensor, I have been trying to source the 88-style connectors, but for crimping, not the pigtail, havent found any yet.. and those 88+ sensors are expensive, and so are the pigtail

Btw, the radio, is there any standard problem with those ? ..I guess I can try to fix it, but then the volume knob is gone anyway..

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tshark
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Report this Post10-03-2017 07:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The coolant overflow tank is not under pressure. You can get a new gasket from Rodney.

The coolant system is under pressure while hot or engine running.
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fierofool
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Report this Post10-03-2017 08:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The recovery tank can lose it's fluid over years, in part due to evaporation. I guess white powder in it isn't really bad. Most have a dark brown coating in them. The tank isn't under pressure. The radiator cap allows fluid expansion to flow into the tank when hot then draws it back into the system when it's cold. There are HOT and COLD fluid level marks on the side of the tank near the headlight. Very hard to see. I usually take a black marker and highlight mine. Just top the tank up to the COLD level and top off the system at the thermostat housing. Use the ethylene glycol type antifreeze. Not the long life orange stuff. If you want to remove the tank to flush it out, you'll need to remove the headlight assembly to make access to the mounting bolts much easier.

The oil pressure sender and harness can be gotten from Rock Auto at www.rockauto.com
An 88 oil pressure sensor. Rock Auto Part Number AC Delco D1808A
An 88 oil pressure sensor harness connector. Rock Auto Part Number AC Delco PT121.

The common problem with the old Fiero radio/cassette player is the rubber bands that drive the tape player. They disintegrate in time. Modern radios can be gotten from late model GM vehicles at a salvage yard. In the following link, the 1992-2003 Grand Prix radio with CD and equalizer will fit nicely into the Fiero without mods. http://replacementradios.co...rix-c-21_42_207.html

You will need the adapter harness. Plug and Play. http://replacementradios.co...a-1862-a3-p-166.html
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Report this Post10-03-2017 08:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AustralianClick Here to visit Australian's HomePageSend a Private Message to AustralianEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I read the whole post with a Swedish accent. Welcome to the forums.
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Repulsiv
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Report this Post10-03-2017 02:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
tshark: Ok, what i call "japanese style" then the tank is just for overflow and not a part of the system under pressure, as it usally is on european cars, for example my SAAB's.

fierofool: Unfortunatly it get pretty expensive from rock auto if I consider shipping, customs and tax on that :/ ..also I would like the connector without cables.

About the stereo, well, maybe it would be better to put a more recent one there, but I dunno, also there is not a lot of american cars on swedish salvage yards, but i can keep my eyes open. ..Is it possible to put a standard single/double DIN unit there ? with some kind of adapter ?

Anyway, here is a image of how it looked like under the front compartment..

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Report this Post10-03-2017 06:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm not sure about the numbers on the washer fluid reservoir.

There seems to be a lot of rust on the spare wheel.

A double-DIN radio is too high, seems like. I have one, and it wouldn't fit.
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Report this Post10-03-2017 06:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

tshark

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Make sure you clean the debris from under the cowl.
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Report this Post10-03-2017 10:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That plastic cowl cover can be removed but to do it correctly, you will need to remove that receiver-drier and take out the fan motor and the resistor next to it to be sure you get all the debris out of the ventilation system. That's the area where the fires start and they can't be extinguished quickly. They usually end up destroying the car.

I notice that part of the shroud around the fan is missing. That reduces cooling efficiency. If you can find another Fiero, I believe all year fan shrouds are the same. Motors on the 84 is different, but I think the shroud is the same.

The radios I linked to were used in all the Pontiacs in the years listed. Bonneville, Grand Prix, Firebird, Grand Am, Montana Van and Sunbird. I think the only difference in those used in the Chevrolet lineup was the color of the display and they didn't have Pontiac molded into the face plate. But I would put my effort toward making the car roadworthy and safe before other amenities.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 10-03-2017).]

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Report this Post10-05-2017 09:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
But can I remove the plastic cowl cover without breaking the AC ? ..I will read up a bit about it befoire trying it

About the cooling fan, what part is missing ? is there any picture of how it is supposed to look like ?

I have ordered engine oil, oil filter, battery adapters (for converting "european poles" to american sidepoles) and 10 liters of concentrated glycol..

other things on my list that I will order soon is

6x sparkplugs
1x air filter
1x fuel filter
1x oil pressure sensor
1x oil pessure sensor connector

..And ofcourse 4 tyres, I have reserved two 205/60R15 and two 225/60R15, just have to remove all wheels so I can put them in the saab and have the tyres changed on them..

I already have brake fluid since I rebuilt the brakes on the SAAB and bought too much, so I have one unopened 1l canister DOT4 fluid.

..That is the plan right now, I do not want to driuve the car to the yearly inspection without changing tyres, oil and filter, the rest can be done after.

Btw, how about the gearbox ? is ther any change interval on the oil there ? would it be a good idea to change it at the same time maybe ?


..I also have to see if my dad have been able to find the registration papers, because I cannot get an insurance before I own it.. (would be nice if he found the spare keys too..)

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 10-05-2017).]

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tshark
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Report this Post10-05-2017 10:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes, the cowl can be removed without touching the AC...but, you have to remove the wipers. I believe that Fierofool was commenting on the AC as regards the blower motor and heater resistor. I removed the resistor from the front, and cleaned out the blower from inside, without touching the AC, but I dropped a screw, and my hand is almost small enough.

DOT4 brake fluid? I thought it was DOT3.
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Report this Post10-05-2017 10:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

tshark

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Oh, and the radiator fan cowl is broken at the support by the coolant overflow tank.
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Report this Post10-05-2017 12:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Like tshark says. The shroud around the radiator fan is missing a section from the upper mounting bolt, around by the recovery tank. The shroud should fully encircle the fan's circumference.

The resistor can be removed without breaking open the AC. I think maybe the fan can also be removed, too. In fact, I remember doing that on one of my cars. You can't get to everything by removing the cowl cover. Save the push in fasteners. You'll need them to compare to replacements. When replacing the upper screws directly beneath the windshield, put a liberal amount of RTV sealant around the holes to prevent water penetration.

DOT 3 fluid is the recommended clutch and brake fluid, but DOT 4 is acceptable. Never use DOT 5.

When you replace the plugs, don't just pull them from the box and install them. Check the gap on them. Be sure they're gapped at .045 inch, or some say you can gap them up to .050 inch. I personally set mine at .047 inch. Use the AC plugs recommended on the engine cover decal. Fieros don't seem to like the fancier plugs.

The manual transmission fluid will last for many years because unlike engine oil, there's no combustion blow-by to contaminate it. However, since you don't really know what the transmission has in it, you could drain it and replace the fluid with 5 w 30 regular motor oil, or even better, obtain 3 quarts of Synchromesh Transmission Fluid, either the expensive GM stuff, or Pennzoil or Castrol brand. It will take about 2.5 quarts to bring the trans up to the proper level. The synchromesh fluid will give you a smoother shift.
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Report this Post10-06-2017 04:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ok, yes I see now on my picture that one part seem to be broken off, will try to find a image of how it is supposed to look like..

I will also try to clean out the dust without opening up the AC, this is something I havent even thought about beforing this thread, if it is common that this start fires it really need to be done.

About DOT3 and 4, I think DOT4 have replaced DOT3 nearly anywhere nowadays ? .I know DOT 5 is a compÄletly different beast that is not mixable and have other problems, but DOT 5.1 could be used.. however its expensive and if DOT3 was recommended its no real point in using a high spec DOT 5.1..

Ok, good to know about the AC plugs, I was going for NGK since I usally prefere them, but I know from experience that some cars are veery picky about the sparkplugs (SAAB's with trionic for example)

Strange that it is "normal" motor oil in the transmission, I havent seen that on any "modern" car (except on those that share engine and transmission oil, thats scary), but the reason I asked is
trht normally the transmission oil does not get bad so easy (mainly because it have a much easier lifte than the engine oil), but on some cars it must be replaced often because they go hard on the oil.

I probably will look into it, but after the car is up and running and road legal
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Report this Post10-06-2017 05:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RossTClick Here to visit RossT's HomePageSend a Private Message to RossTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The recommended 5 speed transmission fluid was changed at some point to Genuine GM Fluid Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid.
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Report this Post10-06-2017 07:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RepulsivClick Here to visit Repulsiv's HomePageSend a Private Message to RepulsivEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Aha, I see. ..Looks like it is the same oil that is used in my SAAB's.

Sparkplugs.. If I serch for plugs for my Fiero and choose AC as brand, I get "R42TS" as recommendation, but the manual says "R42CTS" ? is there any difference to care about ?

I know how the markings works on NGK plugs, but no idea on those AC plugs..
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Report this Post10-06-2017 08:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
"R42TS" replaced the "R42CTS"

RossT is correct about the changeover for trans fluid. The 4-speeds used 5 w 30 motor oil, at least in 84 and 85. I've never seen it defined where the changeover happened, but even those with early 4-speeds report much easier shifting when they change to Synchromesh fluid.
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