Ok, so I can order the R42TS then.

Today I realised that I needed two screws for the battery adapters, more precise two 3/8-16 UNC screws.. gah, I have no imperial screws, but a lot of metric.. have to check if someone have a few and can send them to me, seem to be expensive to buy imperial screws online with shipping and everything.

Anyway, I talked to my dad on phone today, he is visiting tomorrow for other reasons (mainly to drop a lot of crap..eh..useful things he do not have space for anymore (a bit like the Fiero)) but..

- He found the registration papers
- He found the extra keys and alarm fob
- He also found a map with papers the former owner left him "about the car", no idea what that can be.

He will bring it all to me tomorrow.

I also asked him if the oil pressure meter was broken whenhe had the car, and he said no, but he remembered that when the battery went bad "all gauges was acting up" hmm..

..When I asked him if he had the original owners manual, and he said no, but he said he bought a workshop manual for it from some place specialising on american cars, and was going to look for it.

Wee, the registration papers are found, and we filled them in today, its probably registred on me tomorrow, and I also got an insurance for it.

I also got the map with documentation, I only flipped it quickly and it was mainly old receipts for service and parts that the first owner in sweden had saved, including the bill for the chiptuning.
More interesting was the receipt and tjhe manual for the adjustable konis that are on the car now, including a receipt fpor wheel align,ment that was done at the same time (1992 I think)

I also got a members certificate for some swedish fiero club that probably does not exist anymore


I also crossed the "I want to use the car" on the "change owner" part on the registration paper, that is the second step to make it road legal.. the first was to get an insurance, since it is 30 years old
I can skip the next step (pay the tax, cars and motorcycles older than 30 years are tax-free), and go directly to booking a time for a yearly inspection, the last one was done 2006.

I just must fix the tyres first, and hrrm, make some illegal testdrive so I know everything works.. and Yes, change the oil+filter too.

DOT X is covered in my cave, Brake Fluid
While 3 is high boil when dry, very often old systems have too much water and makes all types wet instantly.
Look at Wet Boil on the can. "Race" and other DOT 3 have high boil as DOT5 and 5.1 but wet boil is very low. (Never use 5 in a system design to have 3 4 or 5.1.)
DOT4 and 5.1 have higher wet boil but most old systems are so wet that wet spec is useless.

Wait until you replace calipers and soft hoses to flush MC and hard lines then install new soft line and calipers.
If keeping old calipers etc, compress them so less wet fluid volume to flush.
To flush OE rear... carefully turn E brake screw in just enough can empty the caliper of fluid, turn screw back to seal and lock w/ lever parts then bleed.
Note: Use block of wood to keep rear piston in. Heavy springs can push piston out very easy while bleeding/flushing w/o rotors pads etc. More so when E brake parts are loose/off the screw.

Drain and clean up the MC tank and fill w/ new fluid.
DO NOT empty MC when flushing/bleeding. If MC sucks air you will have problems.

See rest of brake section.

If you replace MC then can use clean dry air to push wet fluid out of lines but Even then the fluid will have some water and you never sees dry boil spec.
Use a non oil air compressor. Oil compressors even w/ extra filters can have enough oil in air to contaminate the system. Any oils can be far worse air/water in the system.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-10-2017).]

First, yesterday I finally got the registration papers, so now the car is officially mine, and it is insured on me too

Today was a "fix the garden and house for the winter" day, but it was also a fiero day

I was going to remove the weels (to bring them to the tyre-guy and let him put new tyres on them) , and to dot hat i needed to move the car.. and it was impossible to push it, so I decided to start it.. to do that i had to put a battery in, and to do that I had to fix my adapters with the imperial screws I bought last friday..

It wasnt very easy but finally the battery was in place, with adapters..



No, its not a new battery, its a old battery that i reversed polarity of.. partly to get a new life for it, partly because I needed a battery with the plus pole to the left, seem to work fine.

..Just have to put something to protect the battery adapter at the plus pole, dont like that it can cause a short so easy..

Then I started the engine, and Wow, to my surprise BOTH the oil-gauge AND the radio suddenly worked, yay! ..I asked my dad a while ago if the oil pressure gauge was broken when he had the car and he said no - it worked, but then he also said that when the old battery went bad "all the gauges went funny", so I guess that was the problem, probably the same for the radio ? ..when I tried to get it to work the last time I had put it on max volume however, so I got a bit surprised when i heard a LOT of sound suddenly when turning the key

Then I tried to put in the reverse.. NOT easy, I think something in the linkage is rusty or just need some oil, it was very hard to get it in reverse, and even other gears.. finally i got it in, and no, it felt like the parking brake was engaged, and when I tried to pull the handle it felt like the wire was off ? ..damn..

Had to move the car with a garage-jack and a bit help.. then I could remove the wheels.. to my surprise it was metric nuts ? ..and I was also surprised that the brakes looked so nice for not being used for 10 years..



I noticed a few other things.. first of all the rubber on the links where not very nice..



Not sure how expensive those are, but they should be replaced..

Then the front brakes where partly engaged, can be due to the long time of standing outdoors, so I probably should take them apart, clean, push back the pistons and see that everything is smooth..

In the rear I think the parking brake is engaged.. and I really dont understand what kind of system it is, its obvious that its a system where the parking brake use the calipers, and not a separate parking brake in a drum inside the rotor (and that is because it is rear wheel drive I guess..) , and it seem to be engaged all the time, I juist dont understand how it is supposed to work, I must look into that, in a service manual or some forum post ..right now this make the car impossible to make road legal..


Some questions.. first of all, i found this in the car, where is it supposed to be ?



Then, does anyone have any idea why the parking brake is stuck ? ..my first guess is the wire, is it easy to remove ? any other ideas ?

Another thing, how the h**l am I supposed to change the front bank spark plugs ?? do I have to remove the engine hood ?

And yes, the shift linkage, I'm going to oil the joints I cans ee in the engine compatment, is there any other "standard" problem ? or why is it so hard to shift ?


btw, the theft alarm in the car making me CRAZY.. its a swedish Touchgard TG-500, and if you google it most people say "remove that crap", and I will.. belive me.. I think I accidenticaly made it sound 10 times today, probably my neighbours hate me now.. SInce I want remote locks I will put in a "standard" remote lock control unit instead.

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 10-15-2017).]

Do you know how the parking brake works? It's unusual. Push the button as you lift it to the top position and see if it releases.

The “BRAKE” lamp indicates that the hand brake is engaged.

The plastic piece in your pic is used to keep the heat away from the battery. The piece fits between the battery and deck lid hinge. The 2 large holes go at the top near the positive terminal. The one most visible in your pic is where the positive cable passes through. The one on the small surface is to access the terminal with a tool. The leg at the lower right should have an eyelet in it. It accommodates a small metal screw and washer that holds it to the battery tray. At the top left should be another small leg shaped like a hook. That hook supports the back corner of the insulator. The arched area was for clearance of a pulley. Since the same shield was used on all Fieros, it was probably for a 4-cylinder. That piece is in rough condition but it could be installed to give some protection to the battery.

Gall757 probably has the answer to your brake light, but it can also be that the little switch in the brakeline in the front compartment has tripped, especially if there's ever been a brake failure. To add to Gall's answer, you must continue to hold the button as you lower the brake lever. Holding it down as you pull up until you feel resistance. Pull a little more and let the lever down while holding the button. Your locked brakes could also be that the front pistons have seized. It's common for the front ones to stick when the car's been sitting for years.

Hmm, I have to try again, I just thought it worked the same way as all other cars I have driven ..Would be great if it's not broken.

I also will try to fit the battery-heat-protection, if its possible, but I guess it was removed because the old very crappy "conversion" to european battery poles, I think that was the reason the car didnt start before too, now ehern I done it properly (and reversed the battery) everything seem to work much better.

Nest week my girl and the kids might go to her mom for a week, if they do I might get the time to fix more stuff, right now time is something I have very little of..

If you're going to tow for a short distance like a couple of hundred feet, you can probably hook to the sway bar or lower control arm or if the hook is small enough, there are a couple of slots in the sides of the frame, near the sway bar mounts, but it can't be done for any distance. Towing long distance will require a tow dolly at minimum. Manual transmission cars can be towed with the rear wheels on the ground for any distance you want. Automatics can be towed at low speeds for up to 25-30 miles (50 km).

GT's will scrape the nose on most tow dollies. My solution to that problem is to place a brick underneath the end of each ramp then place the end of a 2 ft long 2 x 6 on top of that brick. It changes the approach angle of the nose to the ramps.

When pulling one with the rear wheels on the ramp, be absolutely certain that all the front steering components are in very good condition. If the nose of the car starts to sway while towing at highway speeds, it can cause you to wreck.

quote Originally posted by fierofool: . To add to Gall's answer, you must continue to hold the button as you lower the brake lever. Holding it down as you pull up until you feel resistance. Pull a little more and let the lever down while holding the button.

Do not be gentle with the brake lever....if it was pulled tight years ago, it will be difficult to release. I have used 2 hands pulling the lever hard with the button pushed to get it to 'pop' loose. They came up with this design so you could get out of the car without serious injury.....

Ofcourse you all where right, when I did it the right way it worked, thanks, I have driven at least 100 cars, but never one with this construction.. but it is logical that the lever have to be out of the way when you leave the car..

..Some other things..

- The seatbelts.. they are also of some odd construction, and in the registration paper it even have aspecial rule, that they are approved even if they dont fulfil the european regulations. ..however, both belts are not "locking", if I pull it quickly it does not lock, it really should.. oor... ? how is it supposed to work ? both the upper and lower part is rolls ?

Another "broken" thing is the light when i open a door, I guess it should be some light ? ..both "map lights" can be turned on, but nothing automatic.

I also found another broken thing, the windshield washer, the wiper works but no fluid when I engage it.. I hear the pump but no fluid on the windshield.

..Also, now when its cold and damp outside.. i REALLY have to do something about the roof upholstery.. it hangs and look like crap.. is it easy to remove all the inner roof ? ..then I could try to fix it indoors..


Anyway, im happy that the parking brake works ..and the oil pressure meter..

..By the eay, OFCOURSE the theft alarm sounded when I was going into the car.. I HATE it.. have to remove it ASAP..

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 10-16-2017).]

As you can see, the parking brake is as good as a theft alarm...

quote Originally posted by Repulsiv: - The seatbelts.. they are also of some odd construction, and in the registration paper it even have aspecial rule, that they are approved even if they dont fulfil the european regulations. ..however, both belts are not "locking", if I pull it quickly it does not lock, it really should.. oor... ? how is it supposed to work ? both the upper and lower part is rolls ?

Are you referring to the retraction lock, or the latch lock?

quote Originally posted by Repulsiv: Another "broken" thing is the light when i open a door, I guess it should be some light ? ..both "map lights" can be turned on, but nothing automatic.

There are 4 overhead lights: 2 inner courtesy dome lights, and 2 outer map lights. The courtesy lights should come on when the door is opened. I believe they also come on with the dimmer switch. There are also 2 courtesy lights under the dash, one light by each door that should come on when the door is open. Check the switches in the door jams and the courtesy fuse. I think the radio is on that same fuse.

quote Originally posted by Repulsiv: I also found another broken thing, the windshield washer, the wiper works but no fluid when I engage it.. I hear the pump but no fluid on the windshield.

Check for fluid in the tank. Check the nozzles. Check the hoses to the nozzles.

quote Originally posted by Repulsiv: ..Also, now when its cold and damp outside.. i REALLY have to do something about the roof upholstery.. it hangs and look like crap.. is it easy to remove all the inner roof ? ..then I could try to fix it indoors..

Well, you have to remove the seats, visors, overhead console, and third brake light to get the headliner out. Also the A-pillar trim needs to be loosened, and the B-pillar trim removed. It's a great time to check/replace the dome/map bulbs, and the side speakers. If you're going to fix the rear wall, also should fix that at this time. Then the seat tracks, the carpet, and check the floor pans.

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 10-16-2017).]

quote Originally posted by tshark: Are you referring to the retraction lock, or the latch lock?

The retraction lock, the latch works.

quote There are 4 overhead lights: 2 inner courtesy dome lights, and 2 outer map lights. The courtesy lights should come on when the door is opened. I believe they also come on with the dimmer switch. There are also 2 courtesy lights under the dash, one light by each door that should come on when the door is open. Check the switches in the door jams and the courtesy fuse. I think the radio is on that same fuse.

Yes, the map lights works, but not the inner ones, one of them even missing the glass, but I found it in one of the the ashtrays ..No working light under the dashboard or in the doors either.

The strange thing is that the door switches obvioulsy works since they trigger the alarm, but still no light, can be the bulbs ofcourse. ..or the theft alarm :P

quote Check for fluid in the tank. Check the nozzles. Check the hoses to the nozzles.

Unfortunatly there is fluid, but I will check nozzles and the connections.. just one more thing to fix, but it shouldnt be very hard, in worst case a new pump.

quote Well, you have to remove the seats, visors, overhead console, and third brake light to get the headliner out. Also the A-pillar trim needs to be loosened, and the B-pillar trim removed. It's a great time to check/replace the dome/map bulbs, and the side speakers. If you're going to fix the rear wall, also should fix that at this time. Then the seat tracks, the carpet, and check the floor pans.

Ouch, not very easy then, but doable... What about the rear wall ?

Anyway, a good time to clean everything, but this sounds like a summer-job, nothing I want to do now when its rain and +5C :/

I also noticed that at least one speaker (probably front right) is obviously cracked, sounds very bad, but that should be pretty easy to replace I guess, if its not a very non standard speaker. (as in my SAAB 9-5 Aero, that have the Harman/Kardon AS3 sounds system, where ALL speakers are special with very strange impedances..)

If you're only doing the headliner, you don't need to remove the seats. The front speakers are 4 x 10s. https://www.crutchfield.com...-Speakers.html?tp=99 It's likely that yours still has the original Pontiac speakers. Aftermarket speakers don't have the same harness ends. To avoid splicing your speaker wires, you can get an adapter that plugs into the factory harness, then onto the aftermarket speakers. https://www.crutchfield.com...-Wiring-Harness.html

When removing the headliner, there are two 'gotcha' areas. Remove the lenses from the overhead lighting console and look for screws hidden up inside. The other is the A pillar trim. The retaining tabs often get broken because people are unfamiliar with their design. Even an upholstery shop broke one on my 87, but they had the proper glue to glue the tab back on.

The trim strip that tucks the headliner in around the sunroof will usually have gotten stiff and shrunken over the years. You can place it in a pan of warm water and soften it. Start by installing one end at the sunroof latch and stretch it just a small bit as you work your way around.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 10-17-2017).]

quote Originally posted by Repulsiv: - The seatbelts.. they are also of some odd construction, and in the registration paper it even have aspecial rule, that they are approved even if they dont fulfil the european regulations. ..however, both belts are not "locking", if I pull it quickly it does not lock, it really should.. oor... ? how is it supposed to work ? both the upper and lower part is rolls ?

My registration papers also says something about seatbelt exemption. They don't lock when you pull them quickly as in all "normal" cars but I think they lock properly when braking or crashing (as in, if you yank the seatbelts while breaking they should lock?).
"Bilbesiktningen" has never said anything about the belts in my car.

I crashed a Fiero once, many many years ago, the seatbelts behaved the same as in my current car and they stopped me properly in the crash.

Hmm, Today i noticed another problem, there is water on the floor, that was NOT the case some days ago..

It have rained.. a LOT the last days, but still, I cannot figure out how it comes in, the passenger side is all dry, but the floor on the driver side is wet, also the mat behind the drivers seat, and the roof over the driver.

Is there any place where it often leak ? sunroof ? ..that strange gap/joint between the panels behind the sunroof ?

I have to take out my water-vaccum-cleaner and remove as much water as I can and then put something to warm it up to make it dry..

quote Originally posted by agranlund: My registration papers also says something about seatbelt exemption. They don't lock when you pull them quickly as in all "normal" cars but I think they lock properly when braking or crashing (as in, if you yank the seatbelts while breaking they should lock?). "Bilbesiktningen" has never said anything about the belts in my car. I crashed a Fiero once, many many years ago, the seatbelts behaved the same as in my current car and they stopped me properly in the crash.

The Fiero seat belts use an uncommon pendulum system, so they do lock in sudden stops when they need to, but not the annoying way modern seatbelts do when they're moved quickly.

http://articles.chicagotrib...s-strapped-in-safety

They were used on some GM and other vehicles, until automatic passive restraint belts were introduced in the late 80's/early 90's to comply with new laws requiring them or airbags, then those were replaced with the modern annoying sensitive inertial locking ratcheting systems as airbags were required on all vehicles starting in 1995.

[This message has been edited by RWDPLZ (edited 10-17-2017).]

quote Originally posted by RWDPLZ: The Fiero seat belts use an uncommon pendulum system, so they do lock in sudden stops when they need to, but not the annoying way modern seatbelts do when they're moved quickly.

I've also found that they will lock up on a very steep hill if you stop. Only way to get them unlocked is to hold the shoulder strap in position while sliding the seat back or leaning the seat back.

quote Originally posted by fierofool: If you're only doing the headliner, you don't need to remove the seats.

Ah, thats good, even if I now probably should remove the driver seat anyway to get rid of all the water..

quote The front speakers are 4 x 10s. https://www.crutchfield.com...-Speakers.html?tp=99 It's likely that yours still has the original Pontiac speakers. Aftermarket speakers don't have the same harness ends. To avoid splicing your speaker wires, you can get an adapter that plugs into the factory harness, then onto the aftermarket speakers. https://www.crutchfield.com...-Wiring-Harness.html

I looked it up, they are pretty expensive in sweden.. around $160.. but I probably could order online.. however, I will first remove the old ones and see if they are cracked.

quote When removing the headliner, there are two 'gotcha' areas. Remove the lenses from the overhead lighting console and look for screws hidden up inside. The other is the A pillar trim. The retaining tabs often get broken because people are unfamiliar with their design. Even an upholstery shop broke one on my 87, but they had the proper glue to glue the tab back on.

Would be nice to see a image of how they look like so i dont break them

quote The trim strip that tucks the headliner in around the sunroof will usually have gotten stiff and shrunken over the years. You can place it in a pan of warm water and soften it. Start by installing one end at the sunroof latch and stretch it just a small bit as you work your way around.

Probably even worse in this cold weather in sweden..

If you do remove your seats, put some never seize on the studs before reinstalling them.

Be cautious on your speakers. Large magnet speakers won't fit on the driver's side due to the metal support bar underneath. Same goes for the B pillar speakers. There's almost no extra clearance behind the speaker for a larger magnet.

I think I have an A pillar trim in my storage. I'll check and post a picture if I do.

Great, I will study that when i remove them would be nice to get the inner roof out to see where it leak and also make it as new again..

I took some photo of it yesterday, I probably should post it, not very nice..

Charlie, Can you tell us the pulling angles needed to remove each of the A trim tabs? And can the front of the panel be removed with the dash in place? The pictures are a great help but I would like to be sure.

The white plastic tabs need to be depressed with something slid underneath the trim. Pulling on the trim will sometimes break the spring steel clip loose from the trim. The tab that's cast onto the top slips into a spring steel clip on the body. It pulls straight down. The orientation in the last picture is the way it fits up to the top of the car if you were looking at it from outside. The mobile headliner guy that did my 87 pulled the trim loose horizontally and broke that tab off. As said, he had the special glue for that type plastic and glued it back on.

The trim can be removed without removing the dash.

Rexgirl, good to see you on again. By the way, Repulsiv, don't try to remove the B pillar speaker grills. They're molded onto the B pillar trim panel.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 10-18-2017).]

Thank you Charlie. You are always so nice, and helpful. Would you know the name of that special glue or the type of plastic the trim is made of?
And Repulsiv, very cool you are restoring your father's GT.

Sorry, I don't know the answer to either. An automotive upholstery shop might be able to suggest something.

This one sounds like it would do the job, though. Whatever the guy used set up quickly and solidly.
http://www.autozone.com/sea...-adhesive/316901_0_0

Today I tried to remove some of the water, the mat on the drivers postion is soaked..

I first put a heater in the car to get the temperature up, and then after some hours I started to suck water with a vaccum cleaner (ofcourse one made for water), I got around 3dl just from sucking moisture from the floor mats.

Then I left the heater in the car for some more hours, after that I had fog on all windows, so I used one of those windows-cleaners to suck water from the windows, that got me at least 1dl more..

I asked my dad if he had those problems with the car leaking water, but he never had it..

Anyway, i also tried to fix the windows washer pump, first of all i had to clean the nozzles with compressed air, and glue the broken one way valve (converting it to a T-piece only), but I only got the nozzles to drip water, it looks like the pump doesnt give enough pressure..

So I removed the tanke and the pumnp and going to try it more indoors, probably buy a new pump.

..But after I did that and went inside again (+3C) I felt stupid for not measuring the voltage at the pump connector, that can be the problem ofcourse..

Yesterday I got the new tyres on the rims, Kuhmo 205/60R15 on the front, and Continental 225/60R15 in the rear.

Kuhmo is not my fav brand, but I got a very good price.

The reason i went from the original 215/60r15 rear was that it was much harder to find, and 225 seemed to fit fine, also it's just +1.6% larger diameter.

..SO if the weather is with me I might take the car out for a test drive this weekend.

I've been running Kumho's and running them HARD on my 87 for about 3 years. Probably at least 50% tread remains. 215's on front, 225's on the rear, and yes, the 215 Kumho's are very difficult to find.

Today it was raining, but since the family is away I had planend to fix a few things outside, so I wauted until it stopped to rain and changed tyres on one of the saabs.. then it started to rain.. well well, I continued anyway.

I started the fiero to make the engine warm, DAMN so much smoke from the exhaustpipes.. white/grey smoke.. I hope its just condensed water, because it have been raining fro weeks now.. it also smell like the cars did when i was a kid.. probably because it have no cat, and more or less all cars here have that nowadays.

Anyway, I never got the engine really warm, the temp meter is REALLY strange graded, with 7 marks between 100 and 220 ? but it stop two marks over 100, I guess it should be in the middle at 220 ? ..I'm not much into farenheit, but that should be slightly over 100 degrees celcius.

Anyway, i removed the plug and drained the oil, it was extremly black.. so it probably needed a change.. then I let the exhaust cool down a while so I didnt have to burn myself when chaning the oil filter..

meanwhile I tried to get the washer pump to work, I removed the tank and put water in it instead for testing, and connected it to a powersource, I noticed that the longer I used it the better rpessure I got, so i looped the hose from the pump right down in the tank and let it go a while.. then i could hardly stop the water, so I put it back in the car, and also put the combined T-piece and checkvalve in place, and NO.. it actually shooted the hsoe from the valve.. hmm.. tried to blow in it.. completly stuck.. ..now I tried to find a normal T-piece and put it there instead, yes, NOW it worked, actually a bit too good, when standing still it shoot the fluid over the windscreen.. so now I refilled it with washer fluid (very important here in sweden where we can have temperatures around -25C in the winters here in middle sweden..)

Now I filled filled the new oil filter with oil, oiled the gasket and put it in place, then the oilplug and filled with oil, started it up and got oilpressure and no leaks.

Now I put on my wheels and put it down on ground, time for testdrive!

Actually my first time driving the car ever, when my dad bought it we where not friends and did not talk to eachother for about two years (long story..), and after that its just been standing, so i never drived it.. also when we brought it here he drove it up and down from the transporter, sO havent driven it a single meter yet. ..Until now.. I just HAD to take it out for a testdrive..

The engine was not very much like for example my Celicas that have a straight curve with alot of power ion the top, it was much more power on low revs and not so much in the top, I asked my dad about it later and he said its always been like that.. but i was thinking it might have something to do with the 10+ years old gasoline in the tank..

Anyway the engine ran fine, the suspension was very hard but I guess that is intentional.. the brakes.. Hrrm.. EXTREMLY bad.. the first times I had to STAND on the brakes to make the car slow down.. after a few times braking it was better but still not really good.. but I guess its normal since the car have been standing still for 10 years.. I still think I probably should take apart the brakes, clean everything ant put it togethler.. not sure if I do it before the inspection or not.

It's still very hard to shift gears.. moving front and back is easy, to the sides not very easy, my dad said that have happend during the 10 years.. I tried to lubricate the mechanism back on the gearbox, any idea where the trouble can be ?

Anyway, I drove about 2km, and the car works.. except from the brakes its pretty ok.

I also noticed that the parking light in front left was broken, so I fixed it (replaced the bulb)


Then I looked at the oilcan and realised that I had made a mistake and thought the oil can was 4l, so I left around 2dl in it, but it was 5l.. so I overfilled it I with 4.8l oil instead of 3.8.. damn.. not very easy to remove 1l.. :/ I hope I didnt break anything.. some engines really dont like being overfilled, others dont mind.. Anyone know it I have to remove 1l or if its ok ?

I checked the oilstick, but it was EXTREMLY hard to read then the oil was hot and new.. thats why I didnt spot it.

Fiero front brakes are notorious for sticking when they sit for long periods of time. I think complete rebuild kits are either obsolete or hard to find, as are for the rear. I wouldn't venture into rebuilding the rear calipers. Just replace them. That might be a good idea for the front, too.

A Fiero 2.8 will be OK with 5 US quarts of oil. That's what I've been running in my engines for years.

Let the engine run until the cooling fan comes on. Look at the temp gauge and use that point as 235 degrees F if you have a standard 195 thermostat. I would first look at the temp gauge sending unit in the corner of the trunk side head, just below and to the right of the ignition coil. It will have 2 green wires. Replace that temp sensor.

The left to right shifting is probably due to water having gotten into the select cable while it sat outside for so long. It even happens with Fieros that are driven regularly. It's just due to the design, orientation and position of the end of the cable. The wire strands have rusted and may be separating. Rodney Dickman is your best friend for transmission cables. He has also installed a rubber boot on the end to reduce if not totally eliminate that problem.

You do still have a thermostat, right? It almost seems as if someone removed the thermostat, or the thermostat is failing open. Of course, it's nice to connect the data cable to see what the computer shows. To check the thermostat, WHILE THE ENGINE IS COOL, just open the cap on the thermostat housing. Do not loosen the bolts on the housing. You can remove the thermostat easily with your fingers.

You may check the air filter and air intake. If clogged, they can cause loss of top end power.

Oh. On the turn signals, if the bulbs were changed to LEDs, you'll need an electronic flasher (relay). I'd replace both flashers, anyway. The hazards flasher is on the passenger side by the courtesy center, and the blinker flasher is on the driver's side by the steering column, IIRC.

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 10-28-2017).]

Replacing all calipers sounds like a very expensive repair.. I'll try to clean it up and see if they work.. I had planned to do this today, but when I woke up it was snowing

5quars of oil would be around 4.4l I think, but I have more like 4.8l.. hmm.. I know frome xperience that is pretty hard to remove just LITTLE oil.. maybe I can sue one of those "suck the oil up from the oilstick hole" pumps..

btw, I was amazed that the oil is so clear even after driving the car.. usally it get darker really quick, but ofcourse part of that is beacuase most of my cars have turbo, and therefore also a oilcooler, and that is still filled with old oil when you drain the oil sump.. ..I guess that this care have no oilcooler ?

Cooling fan, it never came on, i was running it for maybe 20min standing still with the front hood open, but it nbever started, i figured that was because the temp never came up..

I have no idea what thermostat I have, but on the reciept I got from the old owner when he installed the tuning chip a thermostat was included with that,so it probably changed the temp (up ?) ..I noticed that its very easy to remove it on those cars so I can open it and see if it say anything, and maybe try if it works too (using boiling water), but I noticed they where pretty cheap so I can also buy a new one to be sure..
Is there ANY reason not to buy one with standard temp ?

Hmm, the shift cable.. that sounds logical, but expensive, have to look that up, is it easy to replace it ? ..I can try to just oil it ofcourse, but i know from parking brake cables that they often rust and expands inside so its impossible to get it ok again..

Data cable.. yes.. is there freely available software ? and what kind of cable is needed ? ..could be handy I guess..
Turn signals.. well everything work.. except the extra-added turnsignals in the front, and the indicators.. both front and back and the original mounted sideflashers works.. ..I wonder if the indicators HAVE to work to pass an inspection.. never had this problem ever

No stock oil cooler.

The data cable can be purchased through the Mall. The ALDL software is either free or cheap. I don't remember, it's been so long.