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Procedures for removing entire engine/trans on cradle, by jamin
Started on: 09-01-2017 09:28 AM
Replies: 13 (768 views)
Last post by: olejoedad on 09-05-2017 07:14 PM
jamin
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Report this Post09-01-2017 09:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaminSend a Private Message to jaminEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
All,

I recently purchased a 3800 swapped 88 Fiero and have had a string of issues. Most recent is the header exhaust has a big crack. I was told the entire engine/trans/axels can come out in about 2-hours. While I don't think it will be that fast, I'm a little worried about just disconnecting things without any procedures. Seen some posts on jacking and/or hoisting rear end, but not much on order of things to disconnect.

I am relatively handy, but no where near a professional mechanic. I am really good a following procedures (military background), so I was wondering if anyone has a "checklist" of the order of things to disconnect to pull the entire unit out?

Any help would be greatly appreciated so I can get my new prize on the road.

Thanks, Benjamin

[This message has been edited by jamin (edited 09-01-2017).]

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TXGOOD
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Report this Post09-01-2017 09:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I`m no expert but I have had mine out a few times and while some of the stuff you disconnect is mostly the same it really depends on
how the swap was done. Such as coils left on engine or remotely mounted. How the coolant lines were run. How the heater lines were run.
How the fuel lines were run.
I had never pulled a 3800 out of a car when I did mine but I just looked at how everything was run and made a note of it.
I`m sure some more experienced people will chime in.
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USMUCL
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Report this Post09-01-2017 10:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for USMUCLSend a Private Message to USMUCLEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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fierofool
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Report this Post09-01-2017 12:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is for a duke, but TopNotch just did a writeup on dropping everything together.

http://www.gafiero.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2776.0
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JohnWPB
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Report this Post09-01-2017 07:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnWPBClick Here to visit JohnWPB's HomePageSend a Private Message to JohnWPBEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You mentioned you are not a mechanic, and have never done this before. That being the case, you will have no way to tell one bolt apart from another by looking at them. Trust me, I know this

Buy your self a box of ziplock bags, and as you take bolts out, put them in groups in the bags and label them. It will take a few more minutes, but it is well worth it. Also, taking a TON of photos as you go along for reference to put things back together is also a good idea.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post09-02-2017 05:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Simple answer; anything that is on the engine that attaches to anything else (not on the engine) must be disconnected. Things like water lines, trans lines(auto) , vacuum lines, fuel lines, wire harnesses , air intake pipe, battery cables/ground lines, brake calipers. eBrake cabes, throttle and transmission cables. Then you support the cradle, remove the six strut bolts, remove the four cradle bolts and drop the whole assembly down. Figure 6 hours of work for a first time attempt.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 09-03-2017).]

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Larryinkc
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Report this Post09-02-2017 09:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LarryinkcSend a Private Message to LarryinkcEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Taking pictures before you start removing things can help with hose and wire routing.

[This message has been edited by Larryinkc (edited 09-02-2017).]

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fieroguru
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Report this Post09-02-2017 11:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
http://gafiero.akroncdnr.com/docs/rv6.pdf

Don't use the decklid latch to lift the car...
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mitchjl22
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Report this Post09-03-2017 03:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mitchjl22Send a Private Message to mitchjl22Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Wichita
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Report this Post09-04-2017 11:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WichitaSend a Private Message to WichitaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I know people say to place the 4X4 just in front of where the cradle is. But does anybody have any good pictures or at least an idea of what areas to avoid?

I know the width of the Fiero is a bit under 6ft. Do you need notches (never seen any in the pics that people use) for the scissor jack points? Don't want to bend anything. Is 8ft 4X4 a bit of an overkill sticking out the side a foot in each direction? Should it be shorter than 6ft?

I have everything disconnected from the engine, ready to unbolt the cradle, but securing exactly where the 4X4 is where I need some advise.

[This message has been edited by Wichita (edited 09-04-2017).]

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cyrus88
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Report this Post09-05-2017 04:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cyrus88Send a Private Message to cyrus88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here you go.

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edfiero
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Report this Post09-05-2017 03:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My car is currently jacked up in the garage just like cyrus shows. Let me know if there is something you need a picture of
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Col Sanders
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Report this Post09-05-2017 05:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Col SandersSend a Private Message to Col SandersEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
By all means keep track of where all the bolts go. When I pulled my V6 out of my 86 gt. I took a piece of cardboard , about 3 by 4 feet and punched a hole where every group of bolts went. Then drew a circle around that group and wrote what they were. All goes back together so quick. I used a Haynes Repair Manual for all my work. No internet back then. I just purchased a new manual off eBay for $18.00 shipped. Worth it's weight in gold to me. IMHO
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olejoedad
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Report this Post09-05-2017 07:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Wichita:

I know people say to place the 4X4 just in front of where the cradle is. But does anybody have any good pictures or at least an idea of what areas to avoid?

I know the width of the Fiero is a bit under 6ft. Do you need notches (never seen any in the pics that people use) for the scissor jack points? Don't want to bend anything. Is 8ft 4X4 a bit of an overkill sticking out the side a foot in each direction? Should it be shorter than 6ft?

I have everything disconnected from the engine, ready to unbolt the cradle, but securing exactly where the 4X4 is where I need some advise.



The 4x4 runs directly below the oval cutouts on the floorpan, and just a bit shorter than the distance between the cooling tubes.
Having the lumber forward of the point shown on the diagram allows for more work area and supports the weight just as well. Put the jackstands about 6" from each end of the lumber.

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