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megasquirt? by ericjon262
Started on: 01-30-2017 05:31 PM
Replies: 33 (1001 views)
Last post by: ericjon262 on 02-22-2017 10:40 PM
ericjon262
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Report this Post01-30-2017 05:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
anyone on here have experience with megasquirt? I'm starting to think long and hard about picking up an MS3x kit for my 3500 Fiero and would like to hear from people with direct hands on experience, no hearsay about performance, and ease of use.

right off that bat I see many things I like,

SFI
coil per cylinder
n2o control
VVT
dual knock sensor capability
wideband input
flexfuel
individual cylinder tuning
launch control

probably going to do it, want to hear from people with experience first though.

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"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post01-30-2017 05:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TommyRockerClick Here to Email TommyRockerSend a Private Message to TommyRockerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm considering the exact same thing for my v8 swap. Engineman used the diy version on his supercharged Audi swap. Following.
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Report this Post01-30-2017 06:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
La Fiera is running a megasquirt on his 3.4 V6 race engine. Maybe send him a PM?
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Report this Post01-30-2017 07:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I ran MS2 on a stock HEI V6 Fiero for approx. 6 years, 60 000 km.
Air temperature range: -5°C to +30°C (reflects my local climate and driving season)

I wrecked that car, so I'm doing a new build on another Fiero now.

I started with empty tables, and slowly refined it over time... also gaining experience at the same time.

After about maybe 3 years, I hit a plateau; the cold transient fueling was the last remaining regime that I could not get good. I feel like I did the best I could do with bank fire; to make it any better would require sequentially fired injectors.

Cold transient fueling is the only reason I would prefer sequential over bank fire; but it can be a BIG reason.

MS is far from polished; I felt like many features were implemented in a ham-fisted way. Luckily, the source code is available for those wanting to compile custom code for personal use. So I modified some parts to my liking as I went. When you do this, it becomes a pain to update your software with the latest and greatest bug-fixed versions, because every time you must merge your custom code into the MS code, recompile, and then upload to the car. So at some point, I decided that the MS code was "good enough", and I just branched off.

MS2 code is mostly C, with some interrupts/timing-critical stuff in asm. I don't know how the MS3 code is.

Consider a wideband oxygen sensor essential; except for during a disturbance (accel pump shot, launch bang-bang, etc) or sensor warmup, I ran closed-loop fueling 100% of the time. The beauty of a wideband is that you can set any measurable AFR to be your setpoint AFR; thus my car stayed in closed-loop at WOT, or following a cold start.

I bought the TunerStudio MS & MegaLogViewer HD Combo; well worth it.

Obviously, read the applicable manuals cover-to-cover:
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/

MS3 can be triggered using the 60°V6 crankshaft position sensor. In MS terminology, they call it GM 7X.

Even though for now I will stay MS2 and bank fired, I am looking to get a 3.1 L bottom end for my next engine; so it will have the reluctor ring machined into the crankshaft, and the engine block with the crank sensor mounting provision, in case I want to change to MS3 and sequential fire.

MS3 is the bigger brother to MS2; they're similar, but they have different codebases.

My impression is that tuning/cracking a factory computer is like trying to date a girl who wants nothing to do with you. Why go through the trouble?
Or you can undress the covers of the computer that wants to be touched.
Take this with a grain of salt; I never tried tuning a GM computer.
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Report this Post01-30-2017 08:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jmbishopClick Here to Email jmbishopSend a Private Message to jmbishopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'd like to do a microsquirt on an ecotec.
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Report this Post01-30-2017 09:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manClick Here to Email engine manSend a Private Message to engine manEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I am running a megasquirt 2 on my Audi V8 run wasted spark and batch fire injection and i use MS tuner studio pro it has a self tuning for the fuel so as i drive my laptop is tuning the engine they seem to update regularly and i like it and have zero complaints

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 01-30-2017).]

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Report this Post01-30-2017 10:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for E.FurgalSend a Private Message to E.FurgalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
problem is the ms3x is the same as buying a holley hp
The idea of the ms was cheap.. the ms 3x after harness, and all the other parts is the same as buying an efi system you don't have to build
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Report this Post01-30-2017 10:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manClick Here to Email engine manSend a Private Message to engine manEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
i just looked and the holley hp was like 1100 and a fully assembled MS3 is about 650 and comes with a short wiring harness and uses all the stock sensors you just need to know the sensor value to enter for each sensor if it is not in the list of sensors
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Report this Post01-31-2017 12:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jmbishopClick Here to Email jmbishopSend a Private Message to jmbishopEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you can get away with microsquirt, it ran around $350 with partial harness last I checked.
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Report this Post01-31-2017 09:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TommyRockerClick Here to Email TommyRockerSend a Private Message to TommyRockerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The MS3x fully assembled is around $650, and an 8ft flying lead harness is around $70. Then you just wire it in to your sensors. I'm not sure where you'll find a cheaper affirmative unless you do go with a lower level megasquirt and build it yourself.
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Report this Post01-31-2017 12:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have no experience with Megasquirt but if you are looking for a DIY tuning solution, it would be hard to beat: http://dynamicefi.com/
easy to use product and good customer service
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Report this Post01-31-2017 02:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manClick Here to Email engine manSend a Private Message to engine manEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
the next cheapest is VEMS it is $700 for the V3 ecu the Audi guys swear by it go to http://www.vems.us/ and check out what it has to offer
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Report this Post01-31-2017 03:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

I have no experience with Megasquirt but if you are looking for a DIY tuning solution, it would be hard to beat: http://dynamicefi.com/
easy to use product and good customer service

Speaking of Dynamic EFI...

I'm trying to decide between the EBL P4 and MS3. They both seem to have similar features. Since I already have the GM 7730 ECM installed, the EBL P4 will be a much easier upgrade. Any reason to pick the MS3 over that?
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Report this Post02-01-2017 04:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for E.FurgalSend a Private Message to E.FurgalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

i just looked and the holley hp was like 1100 and a fully assembled MS3 is about 650 and comes with a short wiring harness and uses all the stock sensors you just need to know the sensor value to enter for each sensor if it is not in the list of sensors


now add the relay board
the o2 sensor driver as its not in the unit ..
or are you not going to use one for fuel trim.. and or data logging
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Report this Post02-01-2017 08:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for engine manClick Here to Email engine manSend a Private Message to engine manEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
it will run a narrow band o2 and relay board i don't have any relay board on mine and if wired right into the fiero wiring you should be able to run the fuel pump relay not sure what more you need to run but even if you need a relay board you are talking maybe $50 and that brings you to 700 and the holey is 1100 and if you want wide band o2 14 point 7 will sell you a o2 and driver for about $125

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 02-01-2017).]

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Report this Post02-01-2017 01:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
E.Furgal, don't post in this thread again, I specifically asked for first hand experience, and all you've done is come in and argue dollars that aren't even the real numbers.



that's a hell of alot less then the holley unit, and offers all of the features I desire. yes, I have to do some soldering, big deal.

I say again, do not post again in this thread, you are worthless here.
 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

I ran MS2 on a stock HEI V6 Fiero for approx. 6 years, 60 000 km.
Air temperature range: -5°C to +30°C (reflects my local climate and driving season)

I wrecked that car, so I'm doing a new build on another Fiero now.

I started with empty tables, and slowly refined it over time... also gaining experience at the same time.

After about maybe 3 years, I hit a plateau; the cold transient fueling was the last remaining regime that I could not get good. I feel like I did the best I could do with bank fire; to make it any better would require sequentially fired injectors.

Cold transient fueling is the only reason I would prefer sequential over bank fire; but it can be a BIG reason.

MS is far from polished; I felt like many features were implemented in a ham-fisted way. Luckily, the source code is available for those wanting to compile custom code for personal use. So I modified some parts to my liking as I went. When you do this, it becomes a pain to update your software with the latest and greatest bug-fixed versions, because every time you must merge your custom code into the MS code, recompile, and then upload to the car. So at some point, I decided that the MS code was "good enough", and I just branched off.

MS2 code is mostly C, with some interrupts/timing-critical stuff in asm. I don't know how the MS3 code is.

Consider a wideband oxygen sensor essential; except for during a disturbance (accel pump shot, launch bang-bang, etc) or sensor warmup, I ran closed-loop fueling 100% of the time. The beauty of a wideband is that you can set any measurable AFR to be your setpoint AFR; thus my car stayed in closed-loop at WOT, or following a cold start.

I bought the TunerStudio MS & MegaLogViewer HD Combo; well worth it.

Obviously, read the applicable manuals cover-to-cover:
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/

MS3 can be triggered using the 60°V6 crankshaft position sensor. In MS terminology, they call it GM 7X.

Even though for now I will stay MS2 and bank fired, I am looking to get a 3.1 L bottom end for my next engine; so it will have the reluctor ring machined into the crankshaft, and the engine block with the crank sensor mounting provision, in case I want to change to MS3 and sequential fire.

MS3 is the bigger brother to MS2; they're similar, but they have different codebases.

My impression is that tuning/cracking a factory computer is like trying to date a girl who wants nothing to do with you. Why go through the trouble?
Or you can undress the covers of the computer that wants to be touched.
Take this with a grain of salt; I never tried tuning a GM computer.



Thank you, this is the kind of info I was looking for, very helpful. I had started reading the manuals already, and it looks like the initial setup is going to be a PITA, but I think I can manage. I've played with GM obd2 a little bit, and it's not too hard, but it has limits in the code that my build should exceed by a pretty good margin and I don't want to see what happens after they are exceeded. which left me a couple options, try and change the limits in the code (way over my head) go obd1 (see nAst1 on 60degreev6.com) go with an EBL (will discuss below), or standalone. obd1 requires infastructure that I don't have, most standalone setups just require a usb cable, so easy day.


 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

I have no experience with Megasquirt but if you are looking for a DIY tuning solution, it would be hard to beat: http://dynamicefi.com/
easy to use product and good customer service


agreed, and was one of the options I was looking into, I had an EBL in an old truck of mine, and I loved it. MS3 has a couple of leg up's on the ebl though, with the MS3, I can get sequential injection, coil per cylinder, MAF tuning, up to 4 bar map support, flex fuel, egt logging, direct wbo2 input, ect. it's also easier to find people who tune MS than a half&half standalone/obd1 setup.

right now, ebl is 2nd in line behind MS3.

 
quote
Originally posted by engine man:

I am running a megasquirt 2 on my Audi V8 run wasted spark and batch fire injection and i use MS tuner studio pro it has a self tuning for the fuel so as i drive my laptop is tuning the engine they seem to update regularly and i like it and have zero complaints



Thanks for the input!


------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post02-01-2017 07:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JetroGTSend a Private Message to JetroGTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I know it's not first had input, but I did look into the Megasquuirt and looked throught many videos. I thought this DIY was the most informative.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78pFqsrZfNY

This guy is a trip.
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Report this Post02-02-2017 08:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Perhaps to discuss some of the pitfalls...

In general, the construction lacks robustness.
I thought the MS2 was slightly sketchy with its 40-pin plug-in daughtercard.
An MS3 with MS3X brings the sketchiness to a whole new level with 3 PCBs and computer-grade ribbon cables to connect it all together.
Many potential points of failure with all those cheap cables/connectors.

The DC-37 connector is another part that does not belong in a car. It belongs on a modem or a printer. The plug on the harness has solder cups to make the connections with the wires. You have to be careful with solder cups, because solder wicking up the wire will cause a stiff spot where the solder ends; a stress riser where the wire can break easily. I guess the connector can fare OK in the cabin, provided you are careful with the harness routing to make sure there is no repetitive tugging on the connector.

I purchased a DC-37 socket with gold-plated pins, but that's basically just polishing a turd.

My car suffered from heat-related misfires/shutdowns. Typically, this happened with either heatsoak following a shutdown or in heavy traffic. I did a few things to fix the issue, so it's hard to pinpoint one item as "the cause" of my problems, though one suspect is overheating of the microcontroller itself.

Here is evidence to suggest that some of the microcontrollers have just an 85°C maximum temperature rating:
http://www.msextra.com/foru...ic.php?f=101&t=34004

From what I know of the automotive world, 85°C rated parts are a no-no. 125°C is standard.

The MS was mounted on the firewall, in the same place as the factory ECM. I removed the engine bay insulation because it was crusty, but probably as a side effect that made the cabin side of the firewall hotter. I decided to install a full-time cooling fan to force air through the case, which seemed helpful. This can be seen in the build thread of my old car:
http://www.fieromontreal.co...25.msg16879#msg16879

Jumper wires are used to configure the board; if they're too long, they should be secured to the circuit board. For instance, the long unsecured jumpers in the above post are an example of what NOT to do; I've learned a lot since then. I would suggest electronics-safe RTV as an easy way to secure jumper wire, as in this post:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...HTML/138637.html#p11

There are two mainboards:
V3.0 through-hole, available in kit form.
V3.57 surface-mount version, preassembled.

I selected the V3.0 board, because I prefer the larger through-hole components; easier to service. Also, it contains a "proto area"; this is empty space for your own parts.

Solder the board with rosin core flux, then wash away flux residues with isopropyl alcohol.

The benefit of MS is the flexibility you have with respect to engine setup, options, etc. The downside is the crappy build quality.

The MS3-Pro seems to be better-built, as it appears to be made from a single PCB and automotive-grade connectors. But it's sealed, so if you want to do something special, you're SOL. So with MS3-Pro, you lose the benefit of the flexibility, and then it competes in the realm of other non-kit standalone computers.

Setup may be a PITA, but from observing your build threads you seem resourceful enough to pull it off, even if it takes some time.
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Report this Post02-02-2017 11:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for E.FurgalSend a Private Message to E.FurgalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

E.Furgal, don't post in this thread again, I specifically asked for first hand experience, and all you've done is come in and argue dollars that aren't even the real numbers.



that's a hell of alot less then the holley unit, and offers all of the features I desire. yes, I have to do some soldering, big deal.

I say again, do not post again in this thread, you are worthless here.


Thanks for the input!


Ok. guess my use of them on 2 cars, one with turbo.. isn't real hands on.
good luck
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Report this Post02-09-2017 09:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
so, as a follow up, ordered a MS3x, was going to put it together myself, but got lazy and ordered an assembled unit, I started working on the harness, and will hopefully have a functioning system by the end of next week. I'll post updates as they are available.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post02-10-2017 01:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So is it OK to talk about the EBL P4 now?

But seriously, just a quick question. I've been trying to decide between the EBL P4 and SFI setups. The big question is whether or not SFI would be worth re-pinning for that ECM, adding the cam sensor, etc. My Fiero is not a daily driver. Fuel economy is not really a concern. It mostly gets driven "like I stole it". I'm thinking of just hitting the easy button and going for the EBL P4.
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Report this Post02-10-2017 03:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

So is it OK to talk about the EBL P4 now?

But seriously, just a quick question. I've been trying to decide between the EBL P4 and SFI setups. The big question is whether or not SFI would be worth re-pinning for that ECM, adding the cam sensor, etc. My Fiero is not a daily driver. Fuel economy is not really a concern. It mostly gets driven "like I stole it". I'm thinking of just hitting the easy button and going for the EBL P4.


the EBL units are awesome. I already have all the stuff to do SFI on my car, so it's not a big deal to use them, in your case, I would probably just go with the P4, it's a rock solid setup, and the customer support is unbeatable.

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Report this Post02-10-2017 03:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thank you. For some reason, I'm experiencing decision paralysis regarding the ECM upgrade. So the advice is definitely appreciated.
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Report this Post02-10-2017 11:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you have batch fire, you may end up unhappy and wanting sequential.

If you have sequential fire, you may not need it, but you certainly won't be wishing you had batch fire instead!

Edit to add: my standards of "good driveability" are to start the car at -10 °C, wait about 10 seconds, then floor the throttle as quickly as possible. The engine must rev up fast and clean, without sputtering/hesitating. That is where batch fire fails in my opinion.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 02-10-2017).]

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Report this Post02-11-2017 08:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

If you have batch fire, you may end up unhappy and wanting sequential.

If you have sequential fire, you may not need it, but you certainly won't be wishing you had batch fire instead!

Edit to add: my standards of "good driveability" are to start the car at -10 °C, wait about 10 seconds, then floor the throttle as quickly as possible. The engine must rev up fast and clean, without sputtering/hesitating. That is where batch fire fails in my opinion.



regardless of whether I can or not, you'll never see me start a car and floor it without letting it warm up a bit. people have broken oil pump driveshafts doing stuff like that, it's really not a good idea. not to mention the brutal thermal transients, that could get you into brittle fracture concerns.

------------------
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"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post02-11-2017 08:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here in Florida, it never gets that cold... not even close. To put things in perspective, when we see frost on the grass in the morning, that's a big deal.
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Report this Post02-11-2017 01:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:


regardless of whether I can or not, you'll never see me start a car and floor it without letting it warm up a bit. people have broken oil pump driveshafts doing stuff like that, it's really not a good idea. not to mention the brutal thermal transients, that could get you into brittle fracture concerns.


It is abusive, but that's the cost of tuning cold acceleration enrichment. If you can make it run right flooring the gas right away, then it will probably run well with typical gentle driving.

My opinion is that testing/tuning must be more extreme than actual operating conditions.

For example, if you plan to run your engine up to 6000 RPM in service, then you need datalogs going higher (perhaps 6300 RPM, with some running time there) in order to get your fuel tables correct at 6000 RPM.

I abused my previous 2.8 L engine a fair amount in order to get a half-decent tune. I should be able to get my next engine (also iron-headed) to run well with a minimum of abuse, because of the (applicable) information acquired with the first...

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 02-11-2017).]

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Report this Post02-13-2017 06:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for E.FurgalSend a Private Message to E.FurgalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:


It is abusive, but that's the cost of tuning cold acceleration enrichment. If you can make it run right flooring the gas right away, then it will probably run well with typical gentle driving.

My opinion is that testing/tuning must be more extreme than actual operating conditions.

For example, if you plan to run your engine up to 6000 RPM in service, then you need datalogs going higher (perhaps 6300 RPM, with some running time there) in order to get your fuel tables correct at 6000 RPM.

I abused my previous 2.8 L engine a fair amount in order to get a half-decent tune. I should be able to get my next engine (also iron-headed) to run well with a minimum of abuse, because of the (applicable) information acquired with the first...



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Report this Post02-18-2017 11:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
install progress:

I've installed the unit, a couple of bus bars, and a fuse/relay center on a piece of marine plastic, the whole assembly will be soft mounted to the firewall in behind the passenger seat. right now, I'm waiting on some more GXL wire, and a ton of terminals for the fuse panel and various connectors.



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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 02-18-2017).]

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pmbrunelle
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Report this Post02-18-2017 12:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's good that the computer will be at ambient cabin temperature, rather than tucked away in the warm center console area as with the factory computer.

I remember seeing MTBF data for a magnetic encoder chip (assuming it's similar for electronics in general) that showed reliability dramatically decreasing for relatively small (as in 10°C) increases in temperature.

The harness support block (bearing-cap shaped?) looks good.
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Report this Post02-19-2017 12:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks, I didn't want any strain put on the MS3 connectors at all, so I figured that was the best way to do it.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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ericjon262
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Report this Post02-21-2017 10:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
had to cut the fuse/relay center off, with it in place, the passenger seat was noticeably far forward, without, it's almost all the way back. I'm evaluating two different install layouts, one with the wires exiting the side of the car through a previously drilled hole, or following something more akin to the stock routing, but going through the middle of the firewall.

side:



stockish:



I'll probably go through the side, as it will be more concealed, and offer a cleaner install. the only major downfall, is that it becomes almost impossible to remove the harness from the car once installed, but hopefully it won't ever need to be removed, and if it does, it won't be my car anymore...
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Report this Post02-22-2017 10:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleClick Here to Email pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When you drop the cradle, do you keep the engine harness attached to the engine, while detaching the key connections from the body, or do you separate the harness from the engine, leaving it plugged into the body?
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Report this Post02-22-2017 10:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:

When you drop the cradle, do you keep the engine harness attached to the engine, while detaching the key connections from the body, or do you separate the harness from the engine, leaving it plugged into the body?

good call, somehow I didn't think of that. thankfully, I did decide earlier that the route that allowed the harness to be removed would be the way to go.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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