Lift the car up, and go from the bottom. Aside from that, depending on how fat your hands are, you might be able to manage from the top without removing the decklid.
Another way is to drop the cradle and raise the body, which gives a little more room, but if your cradle bolts haven't been loosened in a very long time, you probably don't want to try that.
Removing the rear deck lid (trunk) is the easiest way and it's not hard to do. Get a friend to help lift it off (not too heavy, but awkward) and 2 bolts on either side are all it takes. Putting it back on is a piece of cake on a Fiero as well. Don't worry about getting everything lined up just right. Just get the bolts started. Take the engine vents out and you can then close the lid and adjust it exactly where you want it then tighten the bolts down WHILE IT'S CLOSED AND LATCHED. Being able to take the engine vents out right next to the hinge makes this ridiculously easy compared to virtually any other car.
The only caveat is when taking the trunk lid off, be careful the hinges don't fly up into the rear window. There's a strap on each hinge to limit movement, but over the years they may be broken. On my car I have one strap broken and the hinge doesn't touch the glass at all but if I let it fly up it might. Just like taking anything loose that's under spring tension, do it slowly and carefully and you won't have any trouble.
I was wondering the same thing....I think he means deck lid removal(?)
Another way that helps is to disconnect the dog bone engine mount, and you can pull the engine back about an inch or so - it makes a big difference. (with a ratchet strap or strong extra pair of arms)
Before you try ANYTHING though - soak the plugs with PB blaster for a day or so before - it will greatly assist in their removal.
Another way that helps is to disconnect the dog bone engine mount, and you can pull the engine back about an inch or so - it makes a big difference. (with a ratchet strap or strong extra pair of arms)
A friend did this to his '85GT to get at the exhaust manifold.
I find it very easy to remove the decklid. Remove 4 bolts and one person can lift it. Then I can stand in the trunk and with nothing more than a cheap Wal-mart socket wrench get at those three plugs. Just pray they don't break off or get cross threaded.
I've had several 2.8 Fieros... and I have never once removed the deck lid (or other methods suggested) just to change the three spark plugs. That seems like a lot of unnecessary work to go through if you ask me. If you have the right tools for the job, replacing the firewall-side spark plugs is no big deal.
[This message has been edited by ITALGT (edited 07-22-2016).]
All you need to do is get a swivel head ratchet. The kind that goes up and down with the longer angled handle. Then you just go in from the passenger side of the car. A short extension can help. To start the new plugs an old plug boot or rubber hose will help get the plug started.
I have an old SK ratchet that is perfect for this and you can change plugs in about 15 min.
Now if they are rusted in spray them down penetrating oil for a say to break up the rust and try to prevent any damage taking them out. Once they are out if you are out in the rain much take the plugs out once a year.
The Fiero is far from the worst car to change plugs in. I have seen some real messes out there and this is far from one of them. Just get the right tool and there is no need for removing parts from the car unrelated to the plugs.
I've had several 2.8 Fieros... and I have never once removed the deck lid (or other methods suggested) just to change the three spark plugs. That seems like a lot of unnecessary work to go through if you ask me. If you have the right tools for the job, replacing the firewall-side spark plugs is no big deal.
Amen!
The right tool make a world of difference and makes this a very easy task.
I find it very easy to remove the decklid. Remove 4 bolts and one person can lift it. Then I can stand in the trunk and with nothing more than a cheap Wal-mart socket wrench get at those three plugs. Just pray they don't break off or get cross threaded.
Use a hose or old boot to put the plugs in and you will never cross thread. It is kind of like a safety device as it lets the plug thread in and you can feel it is right. An old trick my High School teacher taught us.
All you need to do is get a swivel head ratchet. The kind that goes up and down with the longer angled handle. Then you just go in from the passenger side of the car. A short extension can help. To start the new plugs an old plug boot or rubber hose will help get the plug started.
I have an old SK ratchet that is perfect for this and you can change plugs in about 15 min.
Now if they are rusted in spray them down penetrating oil for a say to break up the rust and try to prevent any damage taking them out. Once they are out if you are out in the rain much take the plugs out once a year.
The Fiero is far from the worst car to change plugs in. I have seen some real messes out there and this is far from one of them. Just get the right tool and there is no need for removing parts from the car unrelated to the plugs.
If you have an air compressor I'd recommend blowing out any dirt and debris out of the areas around the plugs before you pull them out. My Formula has so much debris down around the plugs that the socket wouldn't go down far enough to grab hold. You certainly don't want that falling into the cylinder.
All you need to do is get a swivel head ratchet. The kind that goes up and down with the longer angled handle. Then you just go in from the passenger side of the car. A short extension can help. To start the new plugs an old plug boot or rubber hose will help get the plug started.
I have an old SK ratchet that is perfect for this and you can change plugs in about 15 min.
Now if they are rusted in spray them down penetrating oil for a say to break up the rust and try to prevent any damage taking them out. Once they are out if you are out in the rain much take the plugs out once a year.
The Fiero is far from the worst car to change plugs in. I have seen some real messes out there and this is far from one of them. Just get the right tool and there is no need for removing parts from the car unrelated to the plugs.
Works smarter not harder.
I don't disagree with you, but removing the decklid really is no big deal. Easier than me going out to buy a swivel head socket wrench. And probably take me twice as long and a lot of cursing. But my cars are not daily drivers so I tend to do all the maintenance over a long period of time and the decklid is probably off for some other reason.
If you have an air compressor I'd recommend blowing out any dirt and debris out of the areas around the plugs before you pull them out. My Formula has so much debris down around the plugs that the socket wouldn't go down far enough to grab hold. You certainly don't want that falling into the cylinder.
I don't disagree with you, but removing the decklid really is no big deal. Easier than me going out to buy a swivel head socket wrench. And probably take me twice as long and a lot of cursing. But my cars are not daily drivers so I tend to do all the maintenance over a long period of time and the decklid is probably off for some other reason.
I know the deck lid is easy to remove but I can have the plugs changed by the time you get the deck lid off.
Also you always run the risk of pain damage either by accident or someone just knocking it over.
Why take it off if you do not have to. There is no need to stand in the trunk unless you are under 5 foot tall. Just get the right ratchet and it will save you a lot of grief.
Sears offers a similar one cheap.
The only time I removed the deck lid was when I had the dealer do the Recall. I have an Indy Scoop and wing and did not wan them dealing with it. For the manifold change you do need to remove the lid.
The trick here is just to have the right tool and know where to stand and it goes fast and easy. The first time I did it my plugs were rusty and the longer handle made it easy.
To be honest changing the oil filter is more difficult. Not hard just more difficult than the plugs.
Done mime plenty of times with just spark plug socket that holds plug tight, and a normal ratchet with extension. Long reach from either side. Mechanic gloves to protect back of hands. And Fender cover to protect paint from leaning so far an the car. Fastback worse than Notchie to reach over sail panel.
Just don't drop a plug, they will sit on top of the starter and be a pain in the rear to get out. I still might have one sitting there
------------------ LETS GO DRIVING!!! [
Power Tour Long Haul 2009, 10 (muscle car) Power Tour Long Haul 2011, 12 (Fiero) Power Tour 3 stops 2013(Fiero)
[This message has been edited by ltlgt88 (edited 07-23-2016).]
Thought of this too... if you are a guy or gal blessed with large arms and hands, then changing those front plugs with the deck lid on might be a challenge. There is only so much room for your hand and arm to fit between the deck lid, upper intake, and firewall.
Thought of this too... if you are a guy or gal blessed with large arms and hands, then changing those front plugs with the deck lid on might be a challenge. There is only so much room for your hand and arm to fit between the deck lid, upper intake, and firewall.
I have I hate to work on Honda sized forearms and just going in on the side is no issue. You just do not want to go from the top as there is no room there.
Changing plugs is more about looking around and using what space you have. Many older GM cars we would just lift them up and use a long extension over the tire and control arm.
Most FWD it is from the side.
I hated my moms 1990 GP as it had very little room and did need the dog bone removed. My SSEI and later GTP were not bad for the most part. You can see anything but you can feel it.
There are some cars you need to remove parts of the intake today and some other deals that are not fun.
As for the deck lid hinges the springs are not on issue if it is open. Now if you are going to mess with the springs for any such reason they can smash a finger good or break a window. If you do not know what you are doing seek help that does. I have seen some folks really screw up changing the springs.
If you have an air compressor I'd recommend blowing out any dirt and debris out of the areas around the plugs before you pull them out. My Formula has so much debris down around the plugs that the socket wouldn't go down far enough to grab hold. You certainly don't want that falling into the cylinder.
Canned air at Chinamart will work in a pinch if you don't have a compressor. I have used it when drilling holes in concrete to blow the dust out of those holes for expanding lugs to mount my mailbox. a lot better than running my airline across the street.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Changing the front spark plugs is easy if you have an engine tilter tool and don't mind standing in the trunk to do the job. . That tilter is a tool that fits in the place of the dogbone that you turn with a wrench and it pulls the engine back so that easy access to the front plugs is the result. If you don't have the tilter tool, you may be able to remove the dogbone and get a clamp around the holding bolt and the engine bracket. Then tighten the clamp and the engine tilts back. Never did it this way but it seems possible. Although the tilter helps quite a bit I did the job before I had one. That why I purchased the Lille 22550 Tilter http://www.ebay.com/itm/LIS...231756730228&vxp=mtr
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Go in from the driver side and reach around the side of the engine. Plenty of room, short rather and short extension. Blow debris out first, soak with penetrating oil, then use a small tool to scrape around plug base and blow debris out again. Be sure the plug socket fully engages the plug base before trying to loosen the plug. It's not hard, but it can be a bit of a PITA.
Read about the deck lid springs before you touch deck lid I have removed mine added shocks. This is a warning there is load on the deck lid springs.
The springs attach to the hinge, not the deck lid.
The yellow lines point to the deck lid bolt locations. Halfway between them is where the spring bolts to the hinge. You don't remove the spring. You just need to make sure you don't unbolt the deck lid except fully opened.
The screw in the picture is for the spring. You do NOT remove that to remove the lid. The bolt holes for the lid are on either side of the spring attachment.
I've changed plugs both removing the deck lid and not, with a variety of tools including swivel sockets. I find it MUCH easier to do with the lid removed.
[This message has been edited by Formula88 (edited 07-25-2016).]
I'm no mechanical whiz, but I'm able to change the plugs in about 15' without removing the decklid and / or dogbone. And i'm 6'3'', 200#. After you battle through it one or two times, you develop a "rhythm" that makes the job fairly easy. Now about the dew wipes, side speakers, etc., etc., ... b
The easiest way is to take it to a shop that works on Fieros. My 88 GT had the plugs in there for eight years and 50,000 miles. Using lots of penetrating oil it took me about three weeks for the plugs to loosen up enough to remove the plugs, all by feel and not cranking on them. I used some anti seize on the threads when they were replaced. I just leaned in reaching over the intake to get at the plugs.
I just removed the upper and lower plenums and the valve cover to get access to my plugs.
Actually I have an intake manifold gasket leak and had to take all of the off. I figured Wile I was at it, I would check out the plugs. Look how easy it is to get to those plugs now! :-)
2) Spray some PB blaster around them to help break them loose...Allow it to soak for a day or two.
3) You can remove the decklid (Be careful of the hinges because of the springs trying to force the hinges into the rear window- lid should first be fully open!
4) Also, you can undo the dogbone and rock the engine to the rear (Rotate a wheel to force the car to rotate the engine- then place a block under the tire to hold it there)
5) Use a flex-handle ratchet- Harbor freight has one for $21 (It may be cheap, but you are not torquing the crap out of anything with it- it is your Fiero Spark Plug Ratchet)
6) Use a piece of hose to hold the plug while you start it into the hole.
7) I have only changed my plugs 3 times in 34 years and 200,000 miles- and I drive my car hard- the first 10 years I drove to work every morning and home every evening- 3 miles- that is hard on the whole car!
From earlier in this thread, repeated for newcomers. Don't go over the engine, go in from the side, there is plenty of room.
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:
Go in from the driver side and reach around the side of the engine. Plenty of room, short ratchet and short extension. Blow debris out first, soak with penetrating oil, then use a small tool to scrape around plug base and blow debris out again. Be sure the plug socket fully engages the plug base before trying to loosen the plug. It's not hard, but it can be a bit of a PITA.
Heh. I've done spark plugs a few times and always done it by standing in the trunk, and leaning over the engine. Usually not a big deal, especially with a swivel ratchet, or universal joint adapter.
Others have mentioned reaching from below. I tried that but couldn't reach. YMMV I guess.
I did finally have to take off the deck lid when removing the original plugs in my 88 formula a few weeks ago
Heh. I've done spark plugs a few times and always done it by standing in the trunk, and leaning over the engine. Usually not a big deal, especially with a swivel ratchet, or universal joint adapter.
Others have mentioned reaching from below. I tried that but couldn't reach. YMMV I guess.
I did finally have to take off the deck lid when removing the original plugs in my 88 formula a few weeks ago
