I need to bore my block to fit the LS pistons. This will require a torque plate to get the bores round. Engine machine shops around here don't have one for the 3.9, and to buy one for my self it looks like more than $500. too much for my blood. I bought this 2 inch thick “tool plate aluminum” off ebay for under $70. Here I have milled the outside to size on my mill.
I did the drilling and boring after work, they have good machines. I only work 2 or 3 afternoon's a week. After work I get an hour or two to do my own stuff before everyone leaves and I have to clean up and leave also. I have to take my parts off the machine each time. That means the next time the machine is free after work I must set every thing up again, adding a lot of time to the job.
Checking it on the block. I will make aluminum spacers so I can use stock bolts at the stock torque. I ordered some tubing tonight for this.
A (not) fun fact. Dialysis survival in the United States after one year is 77 percent, according to the National Center for Health Statistics. After five years it is 28 percent, and after 10 years it is about 10 percent.
They removed both kidneys 8 years ago! It's likely I am the only person you will meet with no kidneys at all.
I have had many other surgery to keep me going.
Now I am too tired to get out to the garage.
I lost my part time job at the machine shop that I had worked at for 30 years. They couldn't depend on me to come in! So I can't afford to keep building the GT/4E.
I hope things are going well with you. I really like the many innovations in your Fiero build.
Would you have have any interest in selling the drawings or prints for this clamp: Thanks, Paul
Paul you are a little late. The closing on my house is in one week. Going south. If my sketch of the lower strut mount escaped the purge it is in a stack of stuff in the garage. The garage is on a separate lot and I did not sell it
I built that lower strut mount in about 92, for version 3 of the car. I've been working on version 4 for a long time now. It allowed me to bring some tire in as well as out on the car.
You must move the top mount of the strut in as much as the bottom to keep your camber curve correct. There is NO king pin angle for the rear axle!
If I was to do it again I wood fab an upright, from steel, that held the stock (or performance) strut as needed.
You could place things where you need. For lowering. To use better wheel bearings. Or any number of improvements
We desperately need performance rear uprights! 84 to 87 and 88s. Have you seen the fabricated front spindles from Arraut motorsports?
I would use an adjustable “H” lower control arm, with no toe rod. And no trailing arm, but with larger tubing. Maybe 1 ¼ or 1 ½ inch tube
For the adjuster I would use a bushing (bolt?)with a right hand thread on the outside and a left hand thread, for the rod end, on the inside. It would be in the end of one leg of the lower control arm. This is the shortest adjuster I know of. And the strongest if done rite.
Just my thinking,
I have a box of switch trays that may be of interest to you.
“switch your ash tray for a tray with switches”
I last sold them in about 2004. I sold about 100 of them back then.
They are billet aluminum. You can put the ash tray cover down with the switches in place. That conceals them. You can add lights, or whatever, without drilling hole in your interior.
Some of the trays are blank. Some have a slot for 1 switch. Others have slots for 4 switches. I have my NOS arming switch in one.
I also have the switches. The special wire terminals that help things fit in the console. And I think I know where the print is to make more trays.
PS All your work is grate. Thank you for the info you post. And the parts you have developed. A good job well done.