I found a 85 se v6 auto local for $200. Hasn't been ran in ten years with 86k on the clock. No trunk rust, power Windows, cruise, speaker seats. Opinions?
I have a deal worked out with a local wrecker to tow it for free with my AAA. I was going to have them haul it here where I could prime the motor and such before starting it.
Do you guys think priming the motor that way could bring it back? Is there anything else I should do? I have an extra fuel pump in my garage for a v6. I hate to part a complete car. The seats don't even look too bad where they usually rip all to crap at.
I'm sure someone will be along with a more detailed run down for bring back from the dead, but changing all fluids, checking all belts/hoses, checking plugs and possibly putting a small amount of oil into each cylinder would be a good start prior to cranking it over.
I had one that sat 10yrs. Things you can expect to replace, fuel pump(the hose inside the tank will be rotted off), all 4 calipers, master cyl, clutch master and slave. But for $200 go for it.
I found a 85 se v6 auto local for $200. Hasn't been ran in ten years with 86k on the clock. No trunk rust, power Windows, cruise, speaker seats. Opinions?
Hmmm.. Lol! Your profile lists mechanic as an occupation, you have 969 posts since 2011... What don't you already know?
Well tbh..... In case I didn't give it away I'm pretty much going to get it tomorrow lol. I was hoping somebody else would have an objective opinion on the matter. What can I say, it is indeed a sickness.
Drop the tank and flush it before you even think about trying to start it...the fuel pump's sock as completely melted into gunk in the tank...you try to start that it will pull into your lines and clog stuff up. Replace fuel pump while you have it dropped.
Drop the tank and flush it before you even think about trying to start it...the fuel pump's sock as completely melted into gunk in the tank...you try to start that it will pull into your lines and clog stuff up. Replace fuel pump while you have it dropped.
I bought a 140K mile 87 that sat for 17 years for $250. I ended up having to replace all the sensors on the engine (did them one at a time as I found faulty ones). I rebuilt the rear calipers and replaced the fronts, and the master and booster as well as rubber brake lines. My fuel lines were rotten and leaking. Injectors were all gummed up and needed to be replaced. The vacuum lines needed to be replaced and were missing in a few places. I finally got it running pretty good but the auto trans was slipping so I replaced the solenoids and flushed it. Then it slipped worse. Now I've decided to throw in the towel on this engine/trans and go 3800sc, I should have just done that in the first place and never put any money into the original engine but who's to say you'll have the same issues I did.
Forgot to say I got kind of lucky in that I haven't dumped so much money into it yet. I've spent about what it would cost to get a really rough looking but running and driving Fiero around here. Jess
[This message has been edited by 78_elky (edited 05-04-2016).]
I was lucky with mine, after sitting 10yrs I dropped the tank, cleaned it replaced the fuel pump and it fired right up and ran smooth. From there I then replaced everything that froze up from sitting.
Fuel pump and strainer are almost "a given". I would be inclined to spray a bit of ATF and/or oil into the cylinders, and let it marinate for a couple of days. Turn the engine by hand to make sure it's not frozen. Then turn it over a few times with the starter to distribute the oil. (Pull the injector fuses so it doesn't start.)
You may find that some of the rings are stuck. It may smoke like a house fire until they un-stick.
Don't forget to replace the fuel filter too. +1 for adding a little oil into the cylinders and letting it sit for a bit. Turn over by hand, then turn over with the starter motor with the plugs out.
Mine hadn't run in 10 years. All it needed was the fuel pump, filter, rotors, pads and one ball joint. Started right up. I added some injector cleaner into the tank with the new fuel and it smoothed out very quickly.
Well folks I got her home courtesy of AAA. The real deal is its sat for seventeen years. Had a fresh oil and trans change possibly water pump too. Mice were munching on the harness pretty good above the oil fill connector and below cruise canister so that's first, pump, filter and plugs. We shall see if she lives! The oil literally looks brand new as well as the trans fluid so I doubt I will change it out tight now. I didn't get a chance to dump seafoam in the tank yet to try and loosen the gunk before I drop the tank or put atf in the cylinders yet....that's tomorrow
If you've had mice munching on the car, then make sure you remove the blower motor, blower resistor, heater core, etc at some point and vacuum out the heater. Mice like to make nests in there and it invariably results in a fire.
Don't be fooled by that clean oil look. Last March I bought a 62 Mini from an old timer who inherited it after it had sat for 32 years. One of his sales pitch points was to show me how clean the oil was. Luckily I did not try to start the car before changing the oil. It appeared all the impurities had settled out of the oil after that long a time, and when I drained the sump, the black gunk came out first, then mixed with the clear stuff. Dirty as could be in my drain pan. Luckily all turned out well. Hopefully yours is fresh oil. In all my 72 years I had never seen such a thing. Safest to change it before you start it. Good luck on your project. We are all going to be waiting for pictures!
Put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas on first start for some extra lubrication. I'd also suggest a bit in the pistons as well. Like ATF, it will help free up anything "stuck" and lubricates better.
MAKE SURE you take the fuel injector fuse out before starting and put some oil in the cylinders too and then crank for awhile to get the oil flowing before firing it up! Also to keep the old gas outta the fuel lines!!!
------------------ "Discord" Red 1988 GT under restoration!
More than Likely you'll be replacing the fuel "injectors" also. I bought one about 5 years ago, (10 years sitting) 1985 SE. TOTAL Brakes , fuel pump, lines, fluids, filters, check for "Mouse eaten wires", "mouse house" in AC/Heat blower Box ! Almost Any Fiero in any cond is worth $200 !
Man am I getting sick of this weather. The only nice day we have had in the past two weeks was the day we brought her home. I wish it would warm up and dry off already I am by no means a farmer so I have no need for the rain. Heck I can't even dodge rain drops to put a belt on my lawnmower.... This tanks big time
Well finally after our honeymoon to myrtle beach, family trip to carlisle, bailing hay etc... we got to work on it enough to talk about. After dropping the tank it has MAJOR rust inside and a pretty good amount of pin holes at the filler neck, I doubt I'll be able to save the sending unit assy too but I will try. Last night I tried to turn it over by hand at the crank but its solid, pulled the easy plugs and sprayed wd in them. I have a dumb question though, being its an auto does it have to be in neutral to turn it over by hand? I've never messed with a auto in my life other than my one ton chevy lol! Pics to come as soon as my wife can get her phone to work and I can try pip.
OK update time, I've lost the title in the house someplace. The title was through the state of mass. still in the previous owners name and the bill of sale is lost with the old title... What can I do to straighten this out and get it transferred into my name in the state of PA? I touched base with the PO and he is cool with getting a duplicate and writing up a new bill of sale.
If I were you I'd be very afraid of working under that car the way you have it supported. I'd hate to see you get hurt when a cinder block breaks. Once one goes they all will follow. I had one break on me, but I was lucky that I was only part way under the car and the car still had the wheels on it. I was knocked out and broke a small bone in my wrist because put my hand over my head to protect myself.
I'm not trying to be the forum police but for the sake of your loved ones get a set of jack stands. Also check your coolent lines where the cinder blocks are behind the front wheels. They may be bent.
The coolant lines are ok as far as the blocks go they are in good shape thus far. I only have it up that far to change tanks. If I get this title sorted out the tank will go back in with a ep fuel pump and in the garage it goes for a 3800 swap. That is just where the wrecker dumped it off and the driver front rotor is frozen so it won't roll lol.
I have to agree.... don't use cement blocks. They can shatter and drop the car on you. Get some wood blocks, if nothing else. You can split a cement block with a hammer and chisel.... all it takes is for a stress point to focus on the block... and bye-bye brain matter
Originally posted by jaredmurray88: OK update time, I've lost the title in the house someplace. The title was through the state of mass. still in the previous owners name and the bill of sale is lost with the old title... What can I do to straighten this out and get it transferred into my name in the state of PA? I touched base with the PO and he is cool with getting a duplicate and writing up a new bill of sale.
Call PA DMV first. Many states have different rules for lost tittle and you need to follow their instructions.
If you get the PO then ask them to write a copy of bill of sale will help allot in most states.
Note: Most State Taxes for old cars are base on value listed in NADA guides. Not sale value on the bill. So taxes for many Fiero value is around "Average Retail" or ~$2000 to $4000.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)