Hey I'm new here, I went to an auction last weekend and ended up picking an 87 fiero base for pretty cheap. Right now it's not running and most likely a wiring nightmare but I'm working on pulling out the main wiring harness and splicing all the terrible connections the last owner made when trying to "fix" something. I've got everything out of the interior and have been working my way back but stumbled upon a connector under the intake that spins (I think it's the oil temp sensor, but just got my Haynes manual and haven't gotten a chance to look) and I haven't been able to figure out (probably because it's under the intake and a pain to get to and get a good view) so any clues on that would be nice.
Also found something hanging down on the drivers side connected to a steel braided line that has 2 studs with nuts on it. Haven't looked into it yet much because my main focus has been the wiring harness. If I figure out how to upload pics I'll do that.
I've only messed around with a 2.2 ecotec and a 350 a little and rebuilt a Subaru ej253 so I have some experience but the oldest thing I've played with was my 97 Tahoe. Any advice is welcome
Well I completely pulled the wiring harness. Hopefully tomorrow after work I can splice everything up and repair it. I pulled the plugs and hand cranked the motor today, easy roll and felt very smooth. I've gotta check with my buddy and do a compression test once the wiring is done. Also deleting the ac compressor for now.
Ok so here's the first issue wiring harness is in the dash lights up but when I turn the key forward it sprays fuel everywhere. Pretty sure everything but the maf sensor and it's just filling the throttle body with gas. I'm calling today a win for the harness but any clues would help for tomorrow
The fuel sprays straight up so I'm assuming something is missing. It was beautiful though lol
This is my first project car so to say it's a learning new process is an understatement lol
[This message has been edited by Asment (edited 02-13-2016).]
Sit down and really look at what you have, what it needs and how much it is going to be to get the car to where you want it.
Not just a Fiero but many cars can be to the point where you can invest more time and money than it is worth and ends up being a money pit and a regretted decision.
Many times it is often better to pass up the really good price for a better car that has less needs and ends up being cheaper in the end.
I am not sure what your goals are and the condition of your car so I can not make a call here but it is something you need to consider now before the major investment. I have even seen guys restore an old GTO from the dead but have a hard time selling it later for what they have in it.
Cars in general are not cheap to fix up even if you buy them for next to nothing. Check it for rust under the body and figure out what you want to do and how much it is going to cost now so you can plan ahead. I have seen too many lose their shirts on good deals.
Not trying to scare you as there are some good deals that do turn out but we get too many stories and photos of cars never finished here due to poor planing at the start of the project.
This advice applies to all cars not just a Fiero. Also too if you stick with it make sure it is a car you love so as if it is worth less than you have in it at least you have a car you love.
Money isn't a problem, though I'm not dumping a ton into it. This is more of a hobby than trying to restore and sell. I had $7200 into my Tahoe and only got half that when I sold it. As of right now I'm in about $500 I have a motor that turns over, a very clean chassis, and a wiring harness that works. I'm checking the fuel pump relay to see if it's stuck open. The most expensive fixes I see are the e brake, and maybe a transmission but I'll get to that when it's moving. I just like working on things and I've always liked fieros.
I was looking at some headlight conversions but there's no way I'm dropping that kind of money into headlights. I'd rather go for the full stock look
[This message has been edited by Asment (edited 02-15-2016).]
Originally posted by Asment: but just got my Haynes manual...
Barf. Is a joke. Don't trust most data for your 87 and other years. Just for a start... Is missing 700 TBI and DIS ignition for 4 cyl and Gen2 HL motors.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Ok so, I ordered the throttle body injector "tune up" kit, basically all new gaskets for it. Looks like some o rings were gone/rotted.
I also found out that the starter safety switch needs to be adjusted, which I found out how on here so I'll be doing that Thursday. Anyway I pulled the switch held it closed and turned the motor over for the first time, such a great feeling, obviously it didn't start because of no fuel and I didn't have the plugs connected.
Both headlight motors work, also a plus, but one seems to be bent out a little and hitting the hood so I'll have to do some adjusting there.
As for the e brake that's hanging behind the car, I assume when ordering a new cable the front is from the handle to the equalizer?
Well it definitely needs a new clutch. Had a new slave cylinder in the trunk so I put that on but definitely doesn't want go into gear. I also know basically nothing about Manual transmissions so a little research tonight before ordering the clutch
So just a cosmetic question, does anyone know where to find the plastic plate that goes around the radio/air controls? Looks like the previous owner got angry and broke it or someone stole the radio and broke it, it was in dc before...
Well it definitely needs a new clutch. Had a new slave cylinder in the trunk so I put that on but definitely doesn't want go into gear. I also know basically nothing about Manual transmissions so a little research tonight before ordering the clutch
Make sure you bleed the slave cylinder properly. I believe, and someone will need to correct me because it's been awhile, you will need to open the valve, push the cylinder in as far as it will go, and then tighten the valve before you let it back out. If you let it out with the valve open, it will draw in air and won't go into gear properly. I had issues with mine not going into gear, and that solved it.
If you still have issues after that, someone else will need to chime in.
So just a cosmetic question, does anyone know where to find the plastic plate that goes around the radio/air controls? Looks like the previous owner got angry and broke it or someone stole the radio and broke it, it was in dc before...
Check the Mall here and eBay. You shouldn't have a problem finding this for an 87. An 88 would be a little more difficult.....
And welcome to the forum!
------------------ Tim '87 GT Med Red Metallic 85K miles Bay City, MI
The car came with a new master cylinder too so I bench bled that and installed then bled everything all together with a friends help. The only problem now is that I started the car the other day and while it was running it shut off and I lost all lights. Checked all the fuses and they're good, any other ideas? Didn't detect any shorts and the battery is good. I'm at a loss today after spending most of yesterday and this morning trailering a car from PA with a friend.
[This message has been edited by Asment (edited 02-27-2016).]
Figured out the electrical problem, loose connection and boom started up.
Been kinda scared to pull a history report but finally did today, I'm the 4th owner, it failed emissions once (not an issue in MD anymore) but passed in VA in 2013, and it has 68k original miles. Well damn how can I be mad?
Clutch kit comes in Monday, I've been slacking a little, haven't dropped the transaxle yet mainly because when I put the car in first and bump the key it doesn't roll forward. Works in 2, 3, 5, and reverse. 4th has been an issue from the start, just doesn't want to go there
