I've been trying to buy this fiero ever since it's been listed. I know it was a members fiero at one time and gave seen the build tread... I live about 13hrs away from him and the communication has been extremely poor to say the least...wondering if anybody else has had dealings with this guy...
Thanks for the responses guys. He doesn't come off as the typical scammer, but as somebody extremely slow in response. However their are the small clues like stated fastback when it's a notchback, I have asked for pictures of the motor and the subframe issue..still waiting for a response...
Yes I have tried calling him couple of times and I have left a message on his voicemail...
I already have a couple of parts fieros, so If I would need a donor I already have one...this is not my first project car, but thanks for pointing that out...
I have watched this car get passed along for the last couple of years. The first time I saw it I want to say it was out in California. It has slowly made its way east. I spoke to one of the owners and from my understanding there is some pretty severe chassis corrosion on this vehicle. That's why I passed on it a while back. The asking price was substantially higher at that time as well. That being said if you can get it as a donor car at that price or maybe a little cheaper, I don't think its a bad deal for what you would get.
Thanks wickedfierogtp for the information. ..considering your information and that he has not really been communicating, I will probably consider that a sign that it's not meant to be and keep looking or start from scratch
If you want a choptop, I think I know where one is for sale, but it's not a finished car, and not that cheap, but it is a fastback, and good chassis, IIRC. And it's on east coast, so quite a distance from MN.
Sure, they are on facebook too. If you have a Fiero, or even if you dont you could try and get to Frazee Mn the last weekend of July too for a good place to meet some cool Fieroheads. http://www.tylershipmanmemo...m/2016-car-show.html
finally after a couple more texts and a phone call, I was able to talk to him today. Sounds like the chassis or frame has seen better days. Rust issues as stated...The alternator of the motor is hitting the chassis when it is running, the motor is flexing alot in the car and it still has axle issues yet also...
He supposed to get me some pictures later today or tomorrow. ...
If I can get a few pictures and work out a deal with him...I hope to use it as a donor....time will tell what happens
Make sure to check if the side windows are some of the Glass ones that have been made or plexiglass. If its the glass ones, it may be a decent buy just to part it out, as I dont think anyone has choptop side windows available right now.
Make sure to check if the side windows are some of the Glass ones that have been made or plexiglass. If its the glass ones, it may be a decent buy just to part it out, as I dont think anyone has choptop side windows available right now.
There are folks that have glass chop top windows stashed in their parts room. The right offer might convince them to sell.
If the frame is rotted on this choptop, be prepared to start the build process again on a new frame. The roof ,windshield, its frame, rear window , its frame and side glass all must be cut, welded, refitted and re-sized . Point is that its not just a bolt on job. You can't easily build a chop from a parts car chop top.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: If the frame is rotted on this choptop, be prepared to start the build process again on a new frame. The roof ,windshield, its frame, rear window , its frame and side glass all must be cut, welded, refitted and re-sized . Point is that its not just a bolt on job. You can't easily build a chop from a parts car chop top.
The rear glass on the choptop is probably a sheet of lexan anyway. And if the side windows are glass, it saves trying to find them elsewhere. The windshield I think is just laid back further than on the stock cars, but is the same size. If it's an Archie choptop, then it's just a matter of following the instructions to chop another chassis in the exact same place. Then one can swap the body over without having to do all the cutting on the body and the repair work there. Also, if one wants a widebody notchback choptop, particularly in the color the car already is, then it's going to be cheaper to swap the body than finding another notchback, buying the complete widebody and choptop kits, and doing (or paying someone else to do) all the labor, and getting it painted.
If one knows what they are doing, then it is possible to easily build a chop top using this car for parts, and save money versus buying all the necessary kits and tools and doing all the cutting, welding, and body work.
It's not an Archie chop and its not a widebody. Chopping it to fit the Windows is not a big deal. I'm not sure if the roof was widened on this one or not.
[This message has been edited by jmbishop (edited 01-07-2016).]
The rear glass on the choptop is probably a sheet of lexan anyway.
Still the metal frame must be resized and fabricated to fit the smaller rear window
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And if the side windows are glass it saves trying to find them elsewhere. The windshield I think is just laid back further than on the stock cars, but is the same size.
To set the windshield back requires gutting the interior, cutting and welding
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If it's an Archie choptop, then it's just a matter of following the instructions to chop another chassis in the exact same place. Then one can swap the body over without having to do all the cutting on the body and the repair work there.
I see this an a huge task. All body panels must be removed. Your cuts need to be precise and your welds right on the money
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Also, if one wants a widebody notchback choptop, particularly in the color the car already is, then it's going to be cheaper to swap the body than finding another notchback, buying the complete widebody and choptop kits, and doing (or paying someone else to do) all the labor, and getting it painted.
Cheaper, yes. Less work no. You still must fanricate the replacement chop top frame just as if you started from the beginning. IMO, this is a job for an expert.
quote
If one knows what they are doing, then it is possible to easily build a chop top using this car for parts, and save money versus buying all the necessary kits and tools and doing all the cutting, welding, and body work.
Easily? ------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 01-07-2016).]
I believe that car is one of 2 cars built by Joshua Reidl out of Watertown, WI. He had them at the Dells in 2009. He may have had the Orange car at The Dells in 2008 but I can't find any pictures.
It's not one of my ChopTops, it was a Homebrew build.
I think he built the car in 2005-2006. He visited me at my shop in 2006 & we talked ChopTops & windows.
He was a pretty talanted car guy & fun to visit with.
If the frame is rotted on this choptop, be prepared to start the build process again on a new frame. The roof ,windshield, its frame, rear window , its frame and side glass all must be cut, welded, refitted and re-sized . Point is that its not just a bolt on job. You can't easily build a chop from a parts car chop top.
I would think it would be easier to just fix the rot on the frame. If the subframe is bad, replace it.
Regardless of what HE thinks, a rotted out subframe makes this a parts car. For the right price it could be a good deal for the body, interior , drivetrain on a good chassis. Looks like a good buy for the $2000-2500 asking price. Just because he spent $4000+ doesnt make it worth that. I had nearly $20,000 in one I had, that I sold with 4000 miles on it for $5,000. Sounds like hes a not too motivated seller. Anything I advertised for sale, I contacted potential buyers immediately. With all the smart phones out there, theres no reason he cant respond quickly to questions.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-08-2016).]
Thanks for the pictures and link Archie...I will maybe try contacting Josh if I get it.
I got some pictures late last night of the engine bay area (all from the top)..the only thing you can tell is the alternator pulley is hitting the passenger side wheelwell ...the rest looks ok...yes, pictures can be deceiving....
He does seem to be extremely busy and, I agree, not motivated enough in selling, but at least I know he is legit. That's what I wanted to know... I am now trying to set up a time/date when it works for both of us to meet...
Yes of course it depends, but chopping another car and moving all the good parts over is not a trivial thing either.
Agreed. The amount of rot or any other damage is unknown so it's hard to say. The good thing about fixing rotted Fieros is it doesn't have to be as pretty as long as all the body mounts are where they belong and its strong.
Agreed. The amount of rot or any other damage is unknown so it's hard to say. The good thing about fixing rotted Fieros is it doesn't have to be as pretty as long as all the body mounts are where they belong and its strong.
Yes this is true. To fix steel bodied cars you have to be a craftsman at welding and metal working tools. On a Fiero you can have monkey sh!t welds and nobody will be the wiser. I have several Fiero carcasses I need to send to the scrap yard and I'm tempted to save the nice and solid frame rails but not sure if anyone is doing frame repair anymore or if they prefer to move all the good parts over to a new frame.
thought I would give an update. I was able to buy this choptop at the end of january...it had motor mount issues. With bolts missing, snaped, or loose, causing the motor to lean into the shock tower...for the most part it was a simple fix with the right tolls...with the weather finally getting nice in mn I have drove it a couple times...wow what a fun ride...I'm not exactly thrilled with the getrag 5spd...geared a little high on the rpms and the clutch doesn't always release a 100%...
The body has paint chips here and their, but is in mostly good shape. The only down fall is my mistake not checking the decklid latched before leaving detroit...being hauled backwards it ruined the decklid folding it in two...
The frame is not perfect and has had rust issues on the trunk, and a few other places underneath, but most of those have been treated, sandblasted, and undercoated at one time..nothing hugely concerning, but the car is not in mint shape for anybody wondering...but I consider it a great buy for what it is..
If anybody has joushua contact information, I would be grateful...I'm trying to find out the mods done to it, the ecm work, etc..if I would ever need replacement parts
Yes this is true. To fix steel bodied cars you have to be a craftsman at welding and metal working tools. On a Fiero you can have monkey sh!t welds and nobody will be the wiser. I have several Fiero carcasses I need to send to the scrap yard and I'm tempted to save the nice and solid frame rails but not sure if anyone is doing frame repair anymore or if they prefer to move all the good parts over to a new frame.
We are always looking for frame rails up here, I replace them for people when they bring me a set.
Far as that car in pics I got a good look at it in the dells too. Sure its rotted? didnt seem that bad a few years back.
It's a spec 3+ clutch. If you push it in too far it doesn't release. I went through an automatic a 4 speed and then the f23. I couldn't get traction at the track and gave up trying. When I owned it it was the fastest n/a v6 and was hoping for 12's. A pair of slicks may get it there.
