Title pretty much says it all. I am repainting my 87 GT. The side molding is in good shape, and I know it can be tough to paint anyway, but I need to match the strip across the rear bumper. What's my best bet to match it?
I assume this stuff will do fairly well on epoxy primed fiberglass and metal? I've got a set of sail windows from FieroFiberglass that need paint, as well as my engine vents.
I've used SEM Trim Black PN 39143 (self-priming) I've painted all my GT's trim pieces and windshield cowling with it - works great. This paint has held up well for years. I don't bother trying anything else.
Hard to say.... I would look at your existing trim and search out something that will match. Over the years, my various Fieros had satin trim, glossy trim, etc.... I bought a replacement piece of trim and it was satin, but the car (low mileage) had glossy trim. So, I know it isn't what you want to hear, look for a good quality paint, in the sheen that matches the best. You may end up buying 4-5 cans, until you find the correct match.
So I used that Marhyde paint and it didn't work. I sprayed the top of the rear bumper and the paint scratches off with a fingernail. This is unacceptable, and I need to find a way to fix it with suitable paint. This was sprayed on clean epoxy primer sanded at 320 grit.
So I used that Marhyde paint and it didn't work. I sprayed the top of the rear bumper and the paint scratches off with a fingernail. This is unacceptable, and I need to find a way to fix it with suitable paint. This was sprayed on clean epoxy primer sanded at 320 grit.
How long did you give it to cure?
Did you wet sand with 320 or dry and with what kind/brand of paper?
320 wet doesn't leave enough bite and a few days isn't enough time.
320 3M Gold dry, 240 3M Gold dry better. 1 month for good cure however nothing re-painted is going to have the same resilience as factory.
Also, paint build-up due to multiple layers will also cause issues. Keep in mind that the factory laid the paint on so thin the sun and rain would erode it.
If you want to get as close to what the factory did you'll have to have the paint applied with an air-brush.
You dont need any kind primer on the plastic trim at all. Its all about prep. BBEFORE you scuff it (I use maroon scotchbrite), you HAVE to clean it well with soap and water. I also use a brass brush. Rinse and dry, followed with good cleaning with wax and grease remover or acetone. Then you just need any good spray can paint. If its peeling, you had some residue like dressing on it. Ive never had paint peel/chip off plastic trim that wasnt hit by a door or something else at the spot. The only trim problem Ive ever had was making paint stick to chrome metal, like around windshields. I solved that by sandblasting the part, putting on primer to fill the blasting pits, then painting it.
If yours is coming off easily, I suggest going to a coin car pressure wash and blowing it all off and starting over with the cleaning. Some stuff like ArmorAll are VERY hard to remove, and I never use those trim dressings on anything. They have oils that soak INTO the part.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 11-08-2015).]
