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Am I sanding too deep? by Napoleon_Tanerite
Started on: 09-11-2015 10:27 PM
Replies: 3 (386 views)
Last post by: jetsnvettes2000 on 09-12-2015 10:51 PM
Napoleon_Tanerite
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Report this Post09-11-2015 10:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Napoleon_TaneriteSend a Private Message to Napoleon_TaneriteEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've got an 87 GT that I'm looking to restore. It's factory red, but I want to change the color to a dark blue (Impluse Blue from the mid 2000s GTOs). I started sanding today. Below the red was a black layer, below the black was smooth white. I'm not sure if the white is thick primer or fiberglass. How deep should I be going for this sanding job? There were some pretty deep scratches that got into the white, hence why I went so deep. I've never really done any serious paint/body work, so I would appreciate some advice.

[This message has been edited by Napoleon_Tanerite (edited 09-11-2015).]

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jetsnvettes2000
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Report this Post09-12-2015 12:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jetsnvettes2000Send a Private Message to jetsnvettes2000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Stop at the black. You will now need fill primer for that area you went into the white. I would only go there if the area is totally trashed and broken up. Make sure on the Fiberglass body parts like the hood,Engine cover, rear clip, Roof you use smc resin, standard stuff will not stay stuck very long. It is way more expensive but worth the cost in redoing your work.

[This message has been edited by jetsnvettes2000 (edited 09-12-2015).]

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Khw
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Report this Post09-12-2015 01:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KhwClick Here to Email KhwSend a Private Message to KhwEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jetsnvettes2000:

Stop at the black. You will now need fill primer for that area you went into the white. I would only go there if the area is totally trashed and broken up. Make sure on the Fiberglass body parts like the hood,Engine cover, rear clip, Roof you use smc resin, standard stuff will not stay stuck very long. It is way more expensive but worth the cost in redoing your work.



I read his post earlier and thought "He should only be going to the black I think... Then use a high build primer to fill the scratches wet sanding between coats until smooth.". I just wasn't positive so I figured I'd wait for someone else to chime in. I remember on mine where I sanded I only went down to the black.
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jetsnvettes2000
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Report this Post09-12-2015 10:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetsnvettes2000Send a Private Message to jetsnvettes2000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Khw:


I read his post earlier and thought "He should only be going to the black I think... Then use a high build primer to fill the scratches wet sanding between coats until smooth.". I just wasn't positive so I figured I'd wait for someone else to chime in. I remember on mine where I sanded I only went down to the black.


No need to wet sand that is overkill. When prepping the area if the paint is really bad tear it down with a bit of 120 6 inch da paper on a da first but dont go too nuts this is just to break up the loose bits and flaky crap. Sand the rest with 220 grit and keep it flat as you can with just a bit of pressure to one side of the disk but nut using it to cut. You will feel it when it is right it takes a bit of practice to get the feel of it. 220 grit is really all you need and will sand it sufficiently for a good bond of the base fill primer. I like to use Mar-Hyde brand High build Chamois color (skin) it shows your work really well when you go to sand it using a black guide coat over it. A guide coat is just a dusting over the whole part or area with a bit of black paint, I use some black base so it will not cause adhesion issues with the future paint job if any residue is left behind. With the guide coat you will be able to see where you have sanded and know where you have been. With the guide coat you will also see any pin holes or other imperfections. As your sanding blow it off don't rub it off with cloth or towel you can scratch it with the debris. One you have the big stuff blown off then blow with a clean towel and make sure it is lint free and do not wash it with a perfumed detergent as it may contain silicone. I get overly anal about contamination into the base but then again I never get fish eyes as result. once you sand that base fill primer your exposing it's core to elements as its skin is broken, under a microscope it is porous and well you introduce things over time you do not want in it causing paint failure. Good example of crap base and poor prep is the 80's Pontiac cars and Chevrolet cars having the paint blow off in chunks. Once your done sanding go over all the round edges and areas lightly but firmly with a red scotch bright in case you squared your round areas. It takes time to do it right so do not be in a rush Fiero panels are full of hidden curves that can throw you for a loop like the fender lip that transitions from curved to flat. See the Rottin resurrection thread on how a properly sanded High build-ed car should look.
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