Yep, it has happened. Synthetic oil is cheaper than the old stuff. I thought the service tech was kidding, but he said they converted all the dispensers to synthetic or synthetic blends, and buy a 55 gal. drum of the old-timey stuff....an extra $5.
Why do you prefer old style petroleum oil to the superior synthetic oils? Synthetic oil provides better lubrication, offers better wear protection and doesn't break down at higher heat levels. Truly you must be joking.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Originally posted by Gall757: How do you properly dispose of used oil where you are? I hope you drive it to the oil-change place.
We have several local places that use it for heating in the winter and they take it for free. There is also a hazardous waste facility that takes it for "free". Though i'm sure our taxes pay for that. Thats where I drop the filters. Since we have cats I have those big litter jugs, when empty they work great for used oil you can fill them right up.
This is interesting....my situation is very different...
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Originally posted by 2.5:
We have several local places that use it for heating in the winter and they take it for free.
Nobody burns oil around here.....or would admit it.
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There is also a hazardous waste facility that takes it for "free". Though i'm sure our taxes pay for that. Thats where I drop the filters.
so you have to take a trip in your car also....(after crawling out from under it)
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Since we have cats I have those big litter jugs, when empty they work great for used oil you can fill them right up.
no cats....no jugs....no stains in the driveway. It's true I pay $10 more than the cost of the oil, but crawling under a Fiero (at my age....69) is not like crawling under a F-150. I am happy to let the guy down in the hole in the floor do it and get his minimum wage. I save on laundry too. The oil change places have a good recycling system going, and your hazardous waste facility is probably part of it.....we can now even buy 'used' oil that is re-processed...and apparently pretty good.
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 08-13-2015).]
We had a Clean burn oil furnace at work, they are EPA approved. And they burn any thing. Motor oil, gear lube, hyd oil, trans fluid, you name it they'll burn it.
Autozone, Advance Auto and other stores take used motor oil and trans fluids. That's where I bring all my oil. When I lived in NYC years back people would dump their oil down into the sewer. I believe that they still do it that way in some NY neighborhoods. Certainly not recommended but I've seen it happen many times.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Auto parts stores will take the oil. Most have a tank or three in the back for recycling automotive fluids. Check you local AutoZone.
Autozone stores in Grand Rapids take used oil.
To answer comment about why use conventional oil? Because I have oil leaks in my garage with synthetic oil. I switched back to Castrol High Mileage oil which is a blend of syn and conventional oil and the leaks are gone!
And I might add, the wife is happy when the garage floor is clean.
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 08-13-2015).]
Autozone, Advance Auto and other stores take used motor oil and trans fluids. That's where I bring all my oil. When I lived in NYC years back people would dump their oil down into the sewer. I believe that they still do it that way in some NY neighborhoods. Certainly not recommended but I've seen it happen many times.
Back when I was a kid my dad used to pour it on weeds and burn them but that was the 70's. Now, he and I both take it to Autozone.
Castrol ended Synthetic oils are man made. Mobil 1 lost that fight. Now Most Synthetic oils are "dino" based oil.
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Originally posted by Gall757: How do you properly dispose of used oil where you are? I hope you drive it to the oil-change place.
Pepboys, Walmart, and many others take used oil. Some take used coolant too.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
no cats....no jugs....no stains in the driveway. It's true I pay $10 more than the cost of the oil, but crawling under a Fiero (at my age....69) is not like crawling under a F-150. I am happy to let the guy down in the hole in the floor do it and get his minimum wage. I save on laundry too. The oil change places have a good recycling system going, and your hazardous waste facility is probably part of it.....we can now even buy 'used' oil that is re-processed...and apparently pretty good.
I actually make a trip about once a year, I drive about 2 miles with a few cat litter jugs, and a 5 gal bucket of filters, no hassle. You mentioned you are 69 and its hard to get under your car, thats what I meant by physically possible. I understand.
Originally posted by Khw: Back when I was a kid my dad used to pour it on weeds and burn them but that was the 70's. Now, he and I both take it to Autozone.
Yeah, I'd prefer to keep my water table clean too.
It's true I pay $10 more than the cost of the oil, but crawling under a Fiero (at my age....69) is not like crawling under a F-150.
I understand the crawling under, I am a few years younger than you. But I still do it because the guy in the pit surely would not take the passenger rear wheel and splash shield off to get at the oil filter. LOL
Big difference to the older engines and dino oil is the Zinc (ZDDP) content. Flat tappet cams need it more than the newer roller engines.
Maybe I've just got a thing for Andy Granatelli, but I've used STP for the last 40 years. I've now switched over from the original blue bottle to the silver one on my Fieros.
Last oil change that I had a shop do, [dealer], was in the mid 90's. They cross threaded the drain plug. Only reason that I let them do it in the first place was because the van was there under warranty. I've done all of my own since then. Fill up the 5 gallon can and take it to the recycling center. They take antifreeze also.
crawling under a Fiero (at my age....69) is not like crawling under a F-150.
I change my oil at 68, also change whatever else is necessary, including the clutch, and am not planning to stop at 69. I also try to walk a couple of miles every day.
I usually do my own oil changes on both my cars and use Motorcraft or Castrol GTX high mileage synthetic blend and sometimes a little bit of Lucas depending on what season it is (IMO I think full synthetics are a waste of money unless it is specifically called for in the owners manual). I usually swing by my old dealership and have one of my old buddies put it up on the lift and hang out with him while "he" does it. I wish I had a lift to do more in depth repairs though... Sneaking into my old shop for a ten minute oil change vs replacing the starter is a different story! :P
When I am in a rush and have no time however, I have used the 10 minute oil change place by me that has a pit; I WILL NOT let anyone else besides myself jack up my Fiero. I just keep an eye on them... They tried to top off the radiator from the front one time... Ugh!
------------------ "Discord" Red 1988 GT under restoration!
Let's Go Mets!
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[This message has been edited by Shho13 (edited 08-20-2015).]
Why do you prefer old style petroleum oil to the superior synthetic oils? Synthetic oil provides better lubrication, offers better wear protection and doesn't break down at higher heat levels. Truly you must be joking.
because synthetic oil you get on most shelves don't work with the zinc,etc that older engines need.. the detergent package cleans off the zinc as fast as it gets deposited on the parts.. so how is that superior?? I guess if you lick blued rocker balls and pushrod ends, flatning the lifter face, then yes yes use it.
Last oil change that I had a shop do, [dealer], was in the mid 90's. They cross threaded the drain plug. Only reason that I let them do it in the first place was because the van was there under warranty. I've done all of my own since then.
Last oil change that I had a shop do, [dealer], was in the mid 90's. They cross threaded the drain plug. Only reason that I let them do it in the first place was because the van was there under warranty. I've done all of my own since then. Fill up the 5 gallon can and take it to the recycling center. They take antifreeze also.
I had a similar experience at a local place too. I had installed a ball valve to replace the plug on my Chevy Impala. A really nice one with a detent that held the valve closed. They changed the oil and after that it kept leaking slightly. I finally took it in to another place and they found that he had replaced my good ball valve with some crazy kind of spring loaded thing that leaked like a sieve. I was really pissed about that. But, I doubted I could have found the kid who changed my oil. I will never go back there again and tell everyone about my experience too. I hate thieves that disguise themselves as businesses.
Jason, Ive always heard, and found out firsthand, that swapping to synthetic oil AFTER using dino oil for its whole life before, CAN cause worn seals to leak that werent leaking with the dino oil. I say, and been told its the solvents in some synthetics that disolve the little bit of sludge thats keeping the seals from leaking. Ive heard and seen that Mobil One is the worst offender. Its GREAT oil, especially if its been used since new. Ive had cars myself, and friends cars start sprouting big leaks within weeks that didnt leak before the change if they have some miles on them, like 75K-100K. My rule is if I buy a car with over 50-75K on it, I keep using dino, or blends...not synthetic. Ive had great luck with good engines using Castrol Full Sentec. A few of my own even stopped having problems after switching. Things like no more fouled plugs, no leaks, even run cooler with higher oil pressure. I had at least 2 of my own cars see a 10-15 pnd boost in hot oil pressure immediately after switching to Castrol syn (same viscosity). A friend has a perfect low mile, no leaks,all original 61 Corvette. He got a new C5 and switched to Mobile one in the older one. Within a few weeks it was leaving puddles under everything. It was so bad, he pulled the motor and had it all resealed. It didnt need any work internally, so he just took it all apart, replaced all seals and gaskets and put it back together. Hes had no more problems for 3-4 years now.
because synthetic oil you get on most shelves don't work with the zinc,etc that older engines need.. the detergent package cleans off the zinc as fast as it gets deposited on the parts.. so how is that superior?? I guess if you lick blued rocker balls and pushrod ends, flatning the lifter face, then yes yes use it.
I suggest that you read all of the comparison tests online. Very old 50-70's engines liked the zinc additive but those old oils were also loaded with parafins. Those engines also used leaded gas which is super toxic. Synthetic oil works great on 80's engines offering better lubricity, far improved cold weather performance, superior anti-wear properties and longer engine life. A friend went 269K miles on synthetic oil and only had to junk the car because the body rusted away. Most people do not realize is that both synthetic and std oil are both petroleum based products. They are just made by a different process and end up with different properties. Only Amsoil and Royal Purple are laboratory produced pure synthetic oils.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Brand:Edelbrock Manufacturer's Part Number: 1073 Part Type:Motor Oil Product Line:Edelbrock High Performance Zinc Enhanced Formula Oil Summit Racing Part Number:EDL-1073
I personally also never break in a new engine on synthetic. I use dino oil for the first few oil changes. In my plane engine, I use aircraft mineral oil.
I had a Mopar buddy put Mobile One in his new rebuilt V8 (1969) and without the zinc, the cam lobes were wiped in a few hundred miles. He had to replace the cam and lifters.
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Only Amsoil and Royal Purple are laboratory produced pure synthetic oils.
That's not entirely accurate.
While most off the shelf "synthetic" oils are indeed Group III (Hydrocracked dino oil) based, there are others that are "true" synthetics as they are Group IV (PAO) and Group V (Ester) based oil.
All Amsoil and Royal Purple oils are "true" synthetics as they are Group IV (PAO) based. That said, Castrol 0W-30 (aka German Castrol), and Mobil One 0W-40 are also Group IV based. Those two oils are easily identified as "European Formula" on the front, and also has "Made in Germany" on the back label. Those are the only two oils out of Castrol's and Mobil One's lineup that are Group IV based. All other oils in their lineup are Group III (Hydrocracked dino oil) based.
The only Group V based synthetic oil that I know of for automobile applications, is Red Line. (Group V oils are Ester based, and are mostly used in jet engine applications).
[This message has been edited by Deabionni (edited 08-30-2015).]
, but I've used STP for the last 40 years. I've now switched over from the original blue bottle to the silver one on my Fieros.
