* * The only downside to this car is that the owner put on a clear coat that was a different brand than the paint he used for the base color(House of Kolor). The clear coat is starting to lift off where it has been exposed to the sun. UPSIDE; he gave me 3 quarts of the base color. So I guess I am going to have to sand the whole car down to the base coat. Also got a chance to look at the 1988 rolling chassis(with panels) that I want to get. It will be a Loooooooong term project because everything is stripped out of it. The upside is that it can be weather proofed and "sound proofed"
That looks very good. I love that color orange, and also really like those wheels. Nice get!
What base color did he give you? I'm partial to orange and black, and the silver on the bottom really looks good. Makes me think I may do something like that in the future.
[This message has been edited by rice.1 (edited 06-12-2014).]
More of the problem lies with the House of Kolor basecoat, not the clearcoat. Ive had so many problems for years with HOK paint, I generally wont use it anymore. I did a custom van for myself, and their clear never would dry completely...even after 2 years. It started splitting open all over, you couldnt sand or grind it off because it just instantly gummed up the discs. It had to be chemically stripped. Its great on showcars that rarely see outdoors and they have some awesome colors. If you had it done and didnt have any problems, congrats. Other automotive paint suppliers now can mix up almost any color that HOK has anyway, and they dont have all the issues. BASF and SW both have true candie colors. Maybe this painter had the same problems and tried using another brand of clear to eliminate it. It might just have been he waited too long after the base to put on the clear...thats what caused all the original base/clear finishes in the 80s to all peel.
It is a pretty color though, hope you can get a better paint thats close to it. Even the silver looks good with it.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 06-12-2014).]
More of the problem lies with the House of Kolor basecoat, not the clearcoat. Ive had so many problems for years with HOK paint, I generally wont use it anymore. I did a custom van for myself, and their clear never would dry completely...even after 2 years. It started splitting open all over, you couldnt sand or grind it off because it just instantly gummed up the discs. It had to be chemically stripped. Its great on showcars that rarely see outdoors and they have some awesome colors. If you had it done and didnt have any problems, congrats. Other automotive paint suppliers now can mix up almost any color that HOK has anyway, and they dont have all the issues. BASF and SW both have true candie colors. Maybe this painter had the same problems and tried using another brand of clear to eliminate it. It might just have been he waited too long after the base to put on the clear...thats what caused all the original base/clear finishes in the 80s to all peel.
It is a pretty color though, hope you can get a better paint thats close to it. Even the silver looks good with it.
I was just about to shoot you a PM. I had a couple of sentences written and came back here to get the url. Thanks for responding. My question is how do I get the clear coat off? The base seems to be very solid I know you are not a big fan of chemical strippers but what about lacquer thinner or what ever can dissolve the clear that is coming off in fairly good size pieces in places. Should I take it down to or beyond the color coat? The sides are fine, but the top surfaces are peeling. The former owner painted it at least 8 years ago. This one is or seems to be a great prospect for paint. The White 88GT I have will be getting an Anthracite Grey Plastidip. Any suggestions on what my next step should be?
The silver was mixed to match the wheels. Overall a very good looking car. New Quarter panel windows, Koni Shocks, Pirelli tires, 17" wheels, almost perfect interior. I will have to look at the can to get the exact base color
Originally posted by hcforde: My question is how do I get the clear coat off?
Lots of sandpaper and lots of sanding, don't ask me how I know. If you are trying to just get down to the color then I wouldn't use any chemical or you may risk some residual leftovers screwing up your new paint/clear. Sand down to the color/primer, re-spray your color then the clear. Of corse I’m no expert and in the process of sanding mine down for a second time. Primer went on great, DuPont jet black went on flawlessly …and then I screwed up with the clear soooo back to sanding and sanding for a take 2.
Ill NEVER suggest or use stripper on a plastic (any kind) car..EVEN if the can says its plastic safe. Just a spec of residual dried stipper in a pinhole or crack will always come back to haunt you. I use a DA sander and hold it FLAT to avoid sanding dips in the body. I use #80 grit to start since Ill completely primer it anyway. You could go with #180 if you feel thats too aggressive, but it will take longer and lots more paper. What you cant get with the DA, sand off by hand. You can block sand the primer when your done. I do strip cars with stripper, but only METAL bodies, and even then theres lots of power washing, scotchbrites with thinner or acetone. DONT try to get it off with thinner or reducer, you can mess up the plastic body panels. No matter what you do, you will have to reshoot the base color too. Follow the paint manufacturers instructions to the letter as to time to recoat, time to clear, etc. Best to always use same brand clear as basecoat. If you really like the specific color it is already, just take your can to the paint store and have it mixed to match. Like I said, BASF-RM (Diamont) and Sherwin-Williams both have candy colors.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 06-12-2014).]
Here are some up close pics of what I will be working with as far as the current finish on the car
Looks like the original color was a burgundy/maroon. I have the same color on my 88 T-Top
The interior is not too bad. Not much really has to be done to it
153,000 miles
These are actually 18 inch MSR wheels with Pirelli P6000 tires on them. They have spacers so the tires do not rub on the inside.
It also has had the AC changed to 134a with new compressor, etc.
I am going to take it to a car wash this evening and get all the leaves out of the crevices also.
Trunk and door keys do not match.
I did see an area where it looks like it is "Bubbling up" like you might see when rust is painted over. Probably a precursor to what the headlight looks like now.
Overall I am VERY satisfied with the purchase.
[This message has been edited by hcforde (edited 11-07-2014).]
Many times with clear peeling like that, Ive gotten most of it off using the coin op power washer. I stripped a whole Ford Taurus for about $15. The only place that didnt come off was the bumper covers. Ive also stripped some with an air hose, but you need a good professional size air compressor.
Wonder who picked that car up...Was a good deal if it all checks out..
While not perfect, I think it is worth what I paid for it. I bought a whole 1987 GT parts car last March, so the small incidental parts on this car will be very easily replaced. The worst thing that can hopefully(not) happen is a bad fuel pump. The last sticker on the license plate is 2006. So I will do a little engine prep before attempting to start it.
Hey Steve, as you saw in my original post I also am on board for that long term project. I think simultaneously working on a long term project and short term projects are perfect for each other. You can always be doing something so 'downtime' is essentially eliminated and you also get the feeling of accomplishment with the short term projects that get lost in long term projects.
Many times with clear peeling like that, Ive gotten most of it off using the coin op power washer. I stripped a whole Ford Taurus for about $15. The only place that didnt come off was the bumper covers. Ive also stripped some with an air hose, but you need a good professional size air compressor.
Took it to a coin-op car washer but it was pretty weak. It took off the flaky stuff but that was all. It cleaned up real nice though. I have a power washer I am rebuilding and that should do the trick.