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Best way to lower an '88 front end by tshark
Started on: 06-01-2014 02:10 AM
Replies: 43 (1630 views)
Last post by: TXGOOD on 06-03-2014 02:48 PM
TXGOOD
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Report this Post06-03-2014 01:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by Bloozberry:


Herb Adams studied the handling for '84-'87 cars. He posts no "actual results" nor recommendations regarding what should or shouldn't be done to an '88 to make it handle better. To expect that the two entirely different suspension systems would improve equally by doing the same things is comparing apples to oranges. Herb Adams achieved a better handling car by making a whole series of changes including dropping the suspension, increasing roll bar stiffness, changing bushings to aluminum, adding larger wheels, changing the alignment specs, etc etc. Simply cutting a coil from the front of a different car doesn't mean that it too will handle better... in fact I'm pretty sure I've proven otherwise in my build thread. But to each his own.


Good point.
He also states about reforming the cut end.
I would guess that most people who cut springs do just that,cut.
Without reforming the end to fit correctly back into the pocket I could see where it might cause the spring to try and compress to one side more.
If the very end of the cut rides in the pocket as opposed to a larger part of the coil.
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Report this Post06-03-2014 01:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by Rickady88GT:
I cut the bump stops so they still have a "point" on them. The shape of the bump stop "pointed top" is to help absorb the impact better than a blunt top. I am no saying this is the only way to do it, but cutting the bump stops with a more "stock' shape and not such a flat top may help reduce the harshness of a unforgiving bump stops?


I would agree with this. In the picture below, you can see where I did try to reduce the width of the newly trimmed bump stop (vs. just cutting it across) and could have angled it more to reduce the width even further. My concern with going much further was the compression of the bump stop allowing the metal portion of the bump stop (the top of the upside down U) to hit the crossmember. Lowering is all about compromises and the lower you go, the more compromises you will have to make.

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Report this Post06-03-2014 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by TXGOOD:

He also states about reforming the cut end.
I would guess that most people who cut springs do just that,cut.
Without reforming the end to fit correctly back into the pocket I could see where it might cause the spring to try and compress to one side more.
If the very end of the cut rides in the pocket as opposed to a larger part of the coil.


The upper spring perch on the 88 front suspension is perfectly flat and the stock springs are somewhat squared off, they are not ground to a square end like coil overs, so there will always be a stress riser from the corner of the end of the spring resting on the flat surface.

The 88 lower a-arm spring pocket is not flat. It has a coiled groove with one portion about 1/2" lower (thickness of the spring wire) than the other for the spring to rest in so the entire bottom coil is almost entirely supported by the lower a-arm. When you cut the front springs, I suggest placing the cut end down into the recessed groove in the lower control arm and make sure the edge of the spring is placed in the lowest portion of the spring pocket. This will help reduce any additional stress risers from the end being coiled vs. more flattened.
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Report this Post06-03-2014 02:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TXGOODClick Here to visit TXGOOD's HomePageSend a Private Message to TXGOODEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:


The upper spring perch on the 88 front suspension is perfectly flat and the stock springs are somewhat squared off, they are not ground to a square end like coil overs, so there will always be a stress riser from the corner of the end of the spring resting on the flat surface.

The 88 lower a-arm spring pocket is not flat. It has a coiled groove with one portion about 1/2" lower (thickness of the spring wire) than the other for the spring to rest in so the entire bottom coil is almost entirely supported by the lower a-arm. When you cut the front springs, I suggest placing the cut end down into the recessed groove in the lower control arm and make sure the edge of the spring is placed in the lowest portion of the spring pocket. This will help reduce any additional stress risers from the end being coiled vs. more flattened.


Thanks, I was wondering if that might be the case.
I have an 88 and I will more than likely get lowering springs as I have never been a big fan of cutting springs.
I had a Chevy 1/2 ton that I lowered but it used lower control arms with deeper pockets which lowered the whole suspension.
I just had to get shorter shocks.

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