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Rear Ended, what to do now… by craigtbone
Started on: 05-01-2014 05:22 PM
Replies: 49 (1715 views)
Last post by: DavePatron on 10-10-2014 11:28 PM
craigtbone
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Report this Post05-01-2014 05:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My ’88 Coupe w/ T-Top was rear ended while driving to work Monday. Group of cars ahead, deer runs out, every one slowed, I slowed and started to move to unoccupied right lane, Subaru Outback behind me did the same but hit my right rear. That pushed me sideways maybe 45 deg pointing left and into a car in the center lane (although I was sure I did not hit anyone else, the police talked to the person I hit and showed me my front bumper, a minor scratch in her bumper). I turned into the skid and straightened out. Stopped on the shoulder with the Outback behind me. I was surprised how much damage it had, left front from my Fiero, right front from the guardrail, both about the same damage.

No one was hurt, not even the deer. That is the most important outcome. (Well, I wouldn’t really mind if the deer got it.)

Trunk is rather crushed. Right taillight smashed but left looks untouched. Right rear fender is slightly torn at the very back, fixable. Left rear fender looks untouched. Looking in the engine compartment I see not wrinkles in the shock towers. Forward of the trunk I see nothing out of place.

Front bumper fascia a bit scrapped and torn. The plastic bumper structure probably crushed. I see no other front-end damage. Hood does not look out of alignment. Lights go up & down. Under the hood I see no bent or wrinkled sheet metal.

No broken glass. Curiously the drivers seat must be wracked, it will not adjust forward and aft.

Here are a few photos.









Here is the one hint of possible frame damage. The door seam used to me a constant gap. Could the body panels have shifted enough to close this gap?



Difficult to say for sure with just a few photos, but is it possible that the frame was not bent?

Is it possible to get the trunk parts to repair it?

Is the engine cradle likely bent?

(I just put $1,200. into it 3 months ago!)

Not sure what insurance will pay, probably not enough. They likely will try to total it. I do not want that to happen unless it truly is not fixable. I do not have the time to fix it myself so if I cannot have the shop fix it I will be looking for a loving home for it.

This is a factory T-Top (CBJ) so I cannot let it go to a scrap yard or worse.

Any thoughts / comments on the chances of repair are welcomed.

Craig T.

[This message has been edited by craigtbone (edited 05-01-2014).]

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Report this Post05-01-2014 05:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

craigtbone

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Grrr! Why do the photos not show up? What did I do wrong?

Craig T.
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Report this Post05-01-2014 05:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sco77Click Here to Email sco77Send a Private Message to sco77Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There might be some minor bending to the frame, especially if it is rusted back there... But the alignment issue looks to be just the mounting points of the body panel.

------------------
86 Fiero GT 4spd - L67 swap: VS cam, GenV
98 GTP - Some mods

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Report this Post05-01-2014 05:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sco77Click Here to Email sco77Send a Private Message to sco77Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

sco77

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quote
Originally posted by craigtbone:

Grrr! Why do the photos not show up? What did I do wrong?

Craig T.


On photobucket copy the DIRECT link that ends in .jpg ... paste that between the IMG tags.

------------------
86 Fiero GT 4spd - L67 swap: VS cam, GenV
98 GTP - Some mods

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Report this Post05-01-2014 05:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks sco77!
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Report this Post05-01-2014 06:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Capt FieroClick Here to visit Capt Fiero's HomePageClick Here to Email Capt FieroSend a Private Message to Capt FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have helped fix similar damage before. So it is fixable, however will take lots of time and parts. Which from what you said, you don't have the time and unfortunately most body shops charge over $100 per hour for labour. Which would quickly add up to higher than the value of the car. Don't let the insurance company boss you around about the car, don't forget , the car is YOUR CAR and its YOUR PROPERTY. What I prefer to do in cases like this, is, ask them what is the max they would pay out to repair it. Then tell them to pay YOU that amount, and you will get the car fixed on your own. Now at that point, you have cash in hand plus your car, you can choose to part your car out, and use the cash towards another car, or buy a decent Fiero that needs TLC bits that your car already has, then move them over. You might be able to purchase a Fiero with a bad motor for cheap, then take the balance of your cash and pay a mechanic to swap motors or cradles or whatever over.

JUST DON"T LET THAT T-TOP GO... Saw-z-All that bad boy off if you have to. I am sure some 88GT owner would buy it from you to convert a hard top 88GT over to a T-Top. Personally my dream Fiero is an 85GT T-Top 4.9 5spd car. I would hand over the keys to my 88GT in a heart beat for that.

------------------
857GT Part 85GT Part 87GT Part Caddy, 93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Now with Nitrous. Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics For Sale $4000, Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.

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Report this Post05-01-2014 06:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Definitely not a write-off... obviously you'll need a new rear fascia, bumper bar, and honeycomb but it looks like the rest should be fixable. Here's a schematic showing where to look for frame damage once you get the parts off. The red hashed area is the crumple zone so look for damage to that area and ahead of it.



The crumple zone looks fine on the driver's side but is probably "accordioned" at the lower passenger side frame rail. That would be fixable by anyone with basic metal fabrication skills. There's little doubt in my mind that the gap at the door on the passenger side is simply because of the displaced quarter panel and not because of the frame being bent. Post some more pictures once you start getting the panels off.
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Capt Fiero
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Report this Post05-01-2014 06:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Capt FieroClick Here to visit Capt Fiero's HomePageClick Here to Email Capt FieroSend a Private Message to Capt FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
AH HA, I knew I had video of it. Its Kinda Redneck, but look at how bent it is at the beginning then look at how straight it is at the end, he did take a hammer after we were done shooting and smoothed out the wrinkles too. Her insurance company wanted to total the car. However one Fiero Club Tech Day and some ingenuity we had it looking good as new.

http://captfiero.com/videos...intastraightpull.wmv

Its only 7.7mb but shows pulling the rear of the frame back from a really bad crumple.

David

------------------
857GT Part 85GT Part 87GT Part Caddy, 93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Now with Nitrous. Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics For Sale $4000, Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.

[This message has been edited by Capt Fiero (edited 05-01-2014).]

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Report this Post05-01-2014 06:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jsmorterClick Here to Email jsmorterSend a Private Message to jsmorterEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
to bad you don't live closer, I have the parts you need
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Report this Post05-01-2014 06:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jake_DragonSend a Private Message to Jake_DragonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I fixed mine on my carport but it took a long time and a lot of grinding wheels and welding.
Basically cut the front and rear end off a donor and welded it on my car.

Just happen to have a parts car sitting on my lot so I already had parts to fix it.
Can be done but its going to take time or money. Pick one.

Sorry about your car I know how you feel.
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Report this Post05-01-2014 07:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry about your car. Glad you're OK.
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Report this Post05-01-2014 07:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for all the input folks.

Can the trunk and metal structure be straightened out? I have not removed all the carpet and such but wherever I can see there is very little rust.

Or do I need to find a donor car for the trunk metal?

If the frame is not bent and if I could get the body shop to straighten out the metal, I could begin to consider fixing the rest myself.

Keep the good thoughts coming.

Craig T.
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Report this Post05-02-2014 03:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
fix it.
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Report this Post05-02-2014 03:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You not dealing w/ only your insurance but every one involved w/ chain wreck.
Someone behind hit and push you into another then you're dealing w/ 3 insurance minimum. Car hit you, you, car you hit.

Car you hit likely has claim to your insurance and/or car hit you.
Likely You don't have collision insurance but the guy that hit you, his insurance is involved. That insurance can try to "Total" your car when you file a claim to them.
In very short, Total means repair cost is over X% of blue book value and is Very easy to Total an old car.

Tow company likely bill you for the tow and many $X per day storage. You need to deal w/ that. Storage fees can be a big problem. Make sure whatever insurance will pay. W/o paying tow/storage fees the tow company will not release the car to anyone and if enough time, tow co will own it or auction off to settle the fees/liens.

Warning. If you don't have private place to park, like home garage... HOA County etc can fine and/or tow the wreck car even w/ valid tags.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

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Report this Post05-02-2014 08:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:
.... That insurance can try to "Total" your car when you file a claim to them.
In very short, Total means repair cost is over X% of blue book value and is Very easy to Total an old car.



Don't let this frighten you. "Total" is just an insurance term meaning that it's not economically viable (in their opinion) to repair the car and they give you a dollar amount that they determine the car is worth.

Listen to Capt Fiero.... IT'S YOUR CAR, no insurance company can demand that you not repair it. All they can do it not pay you enough (in their opinion) to complete the job. Unless the car burns to the ground, (which yours did not) it can be repaired.
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Report this Post05-02-2014 09:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
How much of the trunk area metal can be saved? Does it need to be cut off and replaced with parts from a donor car? Or can the metal be pulled / pushed / pried / jacked / hammered into a useable condition?

In my 40+ years of driving I have had very little contact with body shops and insurance claims. The discussion of "totaling" is a bit un-nerving. The hitter's insurance today said if they decide the car is a total, they would pay me the value minus the salvage value and I would be required to give them the title. I could apply for a salvage title (I believe he called it that) if I want to make it drivable again. Thoughts like "prying it from my cold dead hands" comes to mind.

What power does the insurance company have? Can they refuse to pay me anything if I do not give them the title? I sound like a naive kid but as I said, I have had very little experience with claims.
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Report this Post05-02-2014 09:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
the insurance company can do whatever they like, the car is still yours until you sign on the dotted line, if they decide to total it, most likely what they will do. you can say OK fine, I want to take your money, BUT I want to keep my car, buy it back in other words. its done every day by many people who love their cars. they will simply cut you a check for whatever they feel the car is worth, then deduct what the car is now considered to be worth. take it home and you can do whatever you want with it, fix it, sell it, whatever.

they don't really want your car, they just want to satisfy you monetarily so unless you do have a good collision policy, think classic car and a before valuation of it you may have to put up some money to repair it or like I said buy it back as a total. I have done it several times just not a Fiero.

good luck

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

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Report this Post05-03-2014 05:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The first big hurdle, it I will be rebuilding this car, is getting the metal in the back fixed. I do not have the tools to do this and do not expect to do this often so I do not want to invest in the tools and skill to repair the metal.

How likely is it that the existing metal can be bent back into useable condition? I have seen very little rust. I also realize that it is difficult to tell from the photos precisely how much damage there is. On the right side, the trunk was compressed so much that it crushed a quart of oil, spraying it around, and pinched a jumper cable stored there. The body shop repairman brought out a 4' bar, hoping to spread the trunk walls enough to liberate the jumper cable, but after 5 minutes of prying and banging we gave up.

If it is too bent up to use, how difficult is it to find donor cars? I presume "new" replacement parts are non-existent. It seems like finding a trunk in a scrap yard that is not crunched or rusty might be a challenge.

If the shop can put the metal back into useable condition, I am thinking I would put the time into rebuilding it. It could be "driven" in and out of the garage as needed making the logistics of a long term project possible. I could nibble away at the rest.

Sooo, please give me some thoughts on the metal repair portion of this.

Craig T.
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Report this Post05-03-2014 07:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by craigtbone:
The first big hurdle, it I will be rebuilding this car, is getting the metal in the back fixed.

Sorry, Not likely. You won't be fixing with pry bar and hammer. Fixing car itself need expert level of work done and car safe to drive after.
Moving the car while working? Maybe. Likely no for days or weeks.

The trunk and frame are crushed...
Front wall of trunk is part of car's frame and strut towers.
Ends Frame is where bumper frame is/was bolted to.

Obvious damage is easy to see but entire right frame can have hidden damage that most DIY won't notice.
Likely you would need a frame shop for estimate because they can tell exactly what areas with damage.
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Report this Post05-03-2014 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Until more in-depth inspection can be carried out I will not know the full extent of repairs needed but it is highly unlikely the insurance will pay enough to have the shop fix it all.

So if I am going to get this car back on the road, the shop will need to do the metal frame repair. Once that is done I would transport it to my house where I can work on the rest though it probably will take a bit of time.

Insurance adjuster will be inspecting the car early next week. Will let you know...

Craig T.
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Report this Post05-04-2014 03:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I will change my vote...

If the car is bone stock and does not have sentimental value then scrap it and take the money and buy another nice one.

Also it depends on the insurance company. Some are quicker to total than others. A buddy of mine has a 90s BMW M3 and he really wanted then to total it so he could go buy something else, but they spent the money for months of rental car while the shop ordered parts from Germany to fix it. They spent way more than the car was worth, he begged them to total it but they would not.

I personally would fix my car regardless of how much it cost, but that's just me.

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 05-04-2014).]

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Report this Post05-05-2014 09:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Shade Tree FieroSend a Private Message to Shade Tree FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You have a pm
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Report this Post05-05-2014 03:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for no2pencilClick Here to Email no2pencilSend a Private Message to no2pencilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jscott1:
If the car is bone stock and does not have sentimental value then scrap it and take the money and buy another nice one.

It has T-Tops, so it's not _bone_ stock...

 
quote
Originally posted by jscott1:
Also it depends on the insurance company. Some are quicker to total than others.

This past winter I slammed a tracker into a guard-rail. Within 72 hours the car was 'totaled' & money was in hand.
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Report this Post05-06-2014 08:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Spoke to the insurance adjuster. No surprises. Three options.

1) $3081. and the car goes to the scrap yard.
2) $2709. get a salvage title and keep the car
3) $0 and keep the car with original title.

Option 1 is not an option. This car must not go to the scrap yard.

Is the original title worth $2700?
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Capt Fiero
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Report this Post05-06-2014 09:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Capt FieroClick Here to visit Capt Fiero's HomePageClick Here to Email Capt FieroSend a Private Message to Capt FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by craigtbone:

Spoke to the insurance adjuster. No surprises. Three options.

1) $3081. and the car goes to the scrap yard.
2) $2709. get a salvage title and keep the car
3) $0 and keep the car with original title.

Option 1 is not an option. This car must not go to the scrap yard.

Is the original title worth $2700?


If that was their first offer, I would push for a higher value on the car, and take option 2, when they come up a bit. There are an awful lot of Fiero's out there in the 2700 range, granted non will be T-Top, but defiantly worth it.

------------------
857GT Part 85GT Part 87GT Part Caddy, 93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Now with Nitrous. Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics For Sale $4000, Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.

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Report this Post05-06-2014 09:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Capt Fiero:


If that was their first offer, I would push for a higher value on the car, and take option 2, when they come up a bit. There are an awful lot of Fiero's out there in the 2700 range, granted non will be T-Top, but defiantly worth it.


I agree, never take their first offer and keep it. Then sell it to another person here like Roger who is capable of fixing something with frame damage. you will need to get it on a frame machine anyway to fix all that damage, as others have said that is not a hammer and dolly job.

Steve
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Report this Post05-07-2014 09:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for oldbikeracerClick Here to visit oldbikeracer's HomePageClick Here to Email oldbikeracerSend a Private Message to oldbikeracerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Option #3 sounds like BS to me. $0 when you had damage in an accident. I would consider getting an attorney involved to help you deal with the insurance company. Perhaps give on a call and quickly explain the situation to him for his advice, they will usually help you with their advice for free, if not call another one. Get some REAL legal advice on this. Insurance company is doing the usual low balling to save them money. I think your neck may also be sore!
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Report this Post05-07-2014 10:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Capt Fiero:


If that was their first offer, I would push for a higher value on the car, and take option 2, when they come up a bit. There are an awful lot of Fiero's out there in the 2700 range, granted non will be T-Top, but defiantly worth it.


Take the money and the car. Go buy another fiero and transfer the t-tops.
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Report this Post05-07-2014 10:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for no2pencilClick Here to Email no2pencilSend a Private Message to no2pencilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jaskispyder:


Take the money and the car. Go buy another fiero and transfer the t-tops.


This is what I would do. Or follow up with those in here that have offered to fix the damage.
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Report this Post05-07-2014 03:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jake_DragonSend a Private Message to Jake_DragonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If thats replacement value tell them to find you a couple examples. Fieros may not be collector items but they are far from the numbers we use to see just 5 years ago.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...060206-1-050601.html
My car rebuild - took a long time but I did get it back on the road
The front was harder than the back to repair
So it can be done.
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Report this Post05-07-2014 11:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Don't worry about the salvage title... it can be legally "washed" to make it pristine again. There are services out there that will do that for a small fee.

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theogre
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Report this Post05-08-2014 01:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jscott1:
Don't worry about the salvage title... it can be legally "washed" to make it pristine again. There are services out there that will do that for a small fee.

Not when Carfax etc has the data from Insurance Co. and/or the DMV. Doc may look clean after the laundry but VIN is still branded as salvage title.

Can it be done? Sadly yes.
legally? Sadly yes too.
 
quote
Title washing refers to transferring a vehicle's registration for the express purpose of removing a title brand.[12] The practice is legal, and practiced by the insurance companies themselves.[13] Title brands such as "salvage," "junk," and "rebuilt" are not standardized, and a vehicle which has such a designation may receive a clean title when registered in a different jurisdiction. Further, vehicles imported to or exported from the United States and Canada are issued a clean title, even if they have been involved in an accident. Other states have relatively lax inspection criteria to remove the salvage brand.[2]
source: Wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salvage_title

Many call it a scam... Quick Example from Carfax:
 
quote
A common scam associated with salvaged vehicles is title washing. In title washing, a seller moves a vehicle to a state that has looser title laws and then registers the vehicle in that state. Depending on that state's title laws, the state may not indicate that the vehicle ever had a salvage title. In a title washing scam, the seller may register the vehicle in multiple states until the salvage brand is removed from the title.
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Capt Fiero
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Report this Post05-08-2014 02:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Capt FieroClick Here to visit Capt Fiero's HomePageClick Here to Email Capt FieroSend a Private Message to Capt FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A salvage title is a death sentence her in BC. Which is why I fought the insurance company on it.

I told them I want them to cut me a cheque for the value of the repairs they would pay, and give me the car back with a clean title. Then hinted that we could wait and see about an injury claim after I had a chance to evaluate how I was feeling in a week or 2. Giving them lots of time to get their papers in order. I had T-Boned a Honda at approximately 20mph, (35mph zone, however with braking and me swerving, I estimated it to be 20mph impact speed) He was making a left in front of me going straight. I saw the report on what the Insurance Corporation of British Columbia had listed parts value at, Hood $425, New Nose $600 $Fenders X2 @ 200 and then body shop labour at approx. $3000 which well exceeded the $5500 valuation they put on my 85GT with 275,000 miles on it. (car was high mileage on chassis but was on its 4th motor and rest of the body was in great shape and had a new interior in it)

I didn't tell them this, but at the time I had a friend in the rebody business that stripped 85GTs of their body's and practically threw them away for Lambo conversions. I got in contact with him and for a total $250 had all the parts I needed to rebuild the front end even the metal bits that were bolt on parts.

FYI BC Canada has government insurance, which is kind of like getting your car insurance through the DMV. Everyone has the same insurance company so there is no fighting over who is at fault, the insurance company represents all sides in all disputes, unless you bring in your own private lawyer, which can tie things up for years.

I ended up with $3000 for the repairs, an extra $2000 each for myself and my wife for pain and injury with all medical expenses and loss of work paid for. (the $2000 each was their first offer and as a man of my word, I accepted it without even a question) To be honest the little sweetie of a Fiero did her job amazingly well and absorbed a great deal of the impact. Frankly we were not hurt much worse than if we had been wrestling on the couch and fell off onto the floor. Sore back and neck and a few bruises)

Fight for what's right, and don't get greedy. You can usually come out on top or at least break even.

Now then as to your car, yes you will NEED to get it on a frame machine to check for alignment of the left to right side of the car, as well as to get the rear corner pulled straight. Its not a really nasty job so I can't expect it to be toooo much money, especially if tell the body shop you'll leave a case of beer on the passenger seat. Then the rest will just be, removing the old impact beam, crush mesh stuff then replacing the rear bumper.

Personally, I would fix the car, a T-Top is way to rare to let go off. They are just so sweet.

Have I mentioned how much I love T-Top Fiero's. Dayumn.

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857GT Part 85GT Part 87GT Part Caddy, 93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Now with Nitrous. Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics For Sale $4000, Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.

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jaskispyder
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Report this Post05-08-2014 07:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Salvage title only means something if you are going to sell the car.... If you plan on keeping the car and want to fix it up with a salvage title, then do so. Enjoy the car!
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theogre
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Report this Post05-08-2014 11:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by jaskispyder:
Salvage title only means something if you are going to sell the car.... If you plan on keeping the car and want to fix it up with a salvage title, then do so. Enjoy the car!

Many states you cannot get a tag etc and drive w/ a Salvage title.
Some states must get a special inspection and comply w/ rules, like having receipts to all parts, to re-class/re-brand to Rebuilt Title.
Is to stop "Car clipping" (2 total cars made into 1 car), cars fix w/ stolen parts, etc that often are big safety problems.
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post05-08-2014 11:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:
Some states must get a special inspection and comply w/ rules, like having receipts to all parts, to re-class/re-brand to Rebuilt Title.
Is to stop "Car clipping" (2 total cars made into 1 car), cars fix w/ stolen parts, etc that often are big safety problems.


Yup. But it shouldn't be that difficult, especially in this case, I believe. If he can't salvage title it, then strip it and buy another fiero. I would find out who inspect rebuilt cars and talk to them. Here in my town, it is done by the police department (I don't think it is an officer, just someone in that department).

http://www.dmv.org/pa-penns...alvaged-vehicles.php

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 05-08-2014).]

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Fierobruiser
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Report this Post05-08-2014 02:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierobruiserClick Here to Email FierobruiserSend a Private Message to FierobruiserEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
$2700 is about right. I just had my 88 Coupe out for inspection before sale in March and in a freak accident the tech managed to run it into the lift. Totaled the lift and the car. (only minimal, repairable damage). Actually the same type of thing happened 10 years ago to this same car. I bought it back then and got about $2700 for it. Bought it for $200, got junk title. took awhile to get it repaired, retitled it in PA with a reconstructed title.

Anyway , insurance gave me $2700 for it this time. I bought it back for $275, got a junk title and sold it to a friend who was going to buy it for $2100 for that junk price. It had some damage on the right front, and I gave him the parts he would need to fix it. He should have it up and running by June. Everybody happy... except the tech who wrecked it.

I likely have the body parts you need to repair it and you can have them for next to nothing as I'm trying to clean out my garage. I live relatively near you in Gilbertsville, just north of Pottstown. I also have a good set of rear rails and trunk section that could be removed from a parts car and welded in place to correct yours if it is crumpled. That you can have for free. Email me at Fierbruiser@gmail

QUOTE]Originally posted by craigtbone:

Spoke to the insurance adjuster. No surprises. Three options.

1) $3081. and the car goes to the scrap yard.
2) $2709. get a salvage title and keep the car
3) $0 and keep the car with original title.

Option 1 is not an option. This car must not go to the scrap yard.

Is the original title worth $2700?[/QUOTE]

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Teach a man to fix a Fiero and he'll own eight....errr...nine."

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craigtbone
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Report this Post05-13-2014 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for all the input. I am trying not to rush into a decision though at this point I am leaning toward option 2, take some money, get a salvage title and fix it.

I have done some looking for recent Fiero sales that would show that mine is worth more than $3081. But I have only found similar cars selling for about $3000.

So if any of you folk could point me to any sales listings that would support a higher value than $3000 that would be helpful in negotiating a higher payout.
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Report this Post05-15-2014 03:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for avengador1Click Here to Email avengador1Send a Private Message to avengador1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Option #4 Take them to court and sue them for damages. Take three body shop estimates with you because the judge will throw out the high and low ones. Repair the car yourself and pocket the difference.
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Report this Post07-11-2014 09:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigtboneClick Here to Email craigtboneSend a Private Message to craigtboneEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have been preoccupied with other life events but it looks like the insurance money will be arriving soon and I need to start collecting the parts to fix my Fiero.

To that end, my286fieros, you mentioned that you have some parts. Could you PM me and lets talk.

Also Fierobruiser, please PM me about parts.

I am determined to put this Fiero back on the road.

Craig T.
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