I hadn't driven my Fiero for over 3 months and as it turned out that killed my battery. I was very happy with this battery: it was 85Ah and had 800 SAE CCA. I never had any starting problems.
As it turns out, this particular battery is no longer sold. So I'm looking at alternatives. The battery before this one was 70Ah and had 640 SAE CCA but I had a lot more problems with it. I can find batteries with high CCA but a lot lower Ah. I absolutely want the higher CCA but what about Ah? What's the disadvantage of high/low Ah? Does high Ah strain the alternator more? Does low Ah cause any problems?
Gall 757 is correct. You would be surprised to find out that most brands are made by one or two manufactures. I have the Optima dry cell. Seems to be working ok.
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 03-31-2014).]
My Interstate MT-75 Battery has a 56Ah capacity with 650 Cold Cranking Amps. I haven't had any problems with starting it even when it was colder. The Ah is just the capacity of the battery. For cold weather climates like yours, I would just get the battery with the most Cold Cranking Amps.
I have a Optima Yellow top. Bought it almost 10 years ago for another car with a lot of stereo equipment. It has been in the Fiero for a while now. Has never given me problems even though I have ran it dead several times.
The original Delco batteries from GM have lasted well for me in several cars since I bought my first Fiero in May '84. I'm still driving that '84 SE 2.5L 4 speed with 363,500 kilometers on it. I replaced it's original battery with a lifetime guaranteed battery from Canadian Tire - it's had a few freebies since. Other than that, I get the Delco OE spec replacements.
The original Delco batteries from GM have lasted well for me in several cars since I bought my first Fiero in May '84. I'm still driving that '84 SE 2.5L 4 speed with 363,500 kilometers on it. I replaced it's original battery with a lifetime guaranteed battery from Canadian Tire - it's had a few freebies since. Other than that, I get the Delco OE spec replacements.
If memory serves me, the original Delco and the old Sears DieHard were manufactured by the same company and I thought it was Delco.
The reason I want high Ah is because I don't drive my Fiero much (no need to) and it often just sits in the garage for weeks at end. A lower Ah battery will drain a lot sooner. That's why I was wondering if a high Ah battery strains your alternator more.
I doubt he's got a wal-mart near by, considering where he lives. He might not be able to get the same brands we do, at least without paying through the nose. Yes, there's only maybe 2 battery makers in north america, but since he's not here, that's a moot point.
Batteries over here don't usually show an amp-hour rating, unless you're buying a deep-cycle (Marine/RV use). Most of them are "starting" batteries and, comparatively, don't have a very large reserve capacity. A deep cycle ought to outlast a starting battery, but usually doesn't have a high of a CCA rating as a same size starting battery. It'll also weight a lot more. 50lbs deep cycle group 24 vs 30 or 35lbs for a starting battery the same size. So buy a starting battery if you want high CCAs.
I'd gauge the quality of the battery on it's warranty. Cheap ones have a shorter warrnty - like 1 year or 3 years pro-rated. A decent one will have 6 years or more. I have a 6-year pro-rated battery that's about 10 years old now and still going strong. Of course, you'll end up paying for the quality difference up front.
All that being said, if you want real longevity, have a look into AGM batteries. They can put out just as man CCAs, survive accidental discharges a lot better and have a lower self-discharge rate than a flooded battery. Note that AGM is not the same as a Gel battery. The AGM that comes standard in any Miata/MX5 have a typical life span of 10+ years. Of course, they're twice the price of a regular battery, but they will pay themselves off eventually.
The reason I want high Ah is because I don't drive my Fiero much (no need to) and it often just sits in the garage for weeks at end. A lower Ah battery will drain a lot sooner. That's why I was wondering if a high Ah battery strains your alternator more.
It won't strain your altenator more. It'll have to work longer to charge it up after being discharged, simply to replace what's been taken out of it, but after it's topped up, it won't make a difference. If anything, it'll be easier on the alt in the long run, simply because any time you have a high demand on the electrical system there's plenty of reserve left in the battery for it to draw on, whereas a small battery could end up with more of a voltage drop sooner, meaning the alt would have to compensate that much more.
Most of the time, you won't notice a difference, unless you're running big stereo equipment or if your alt fails. If your alt fails while you're out driving, that's when you'd want a deep cycle/larger reserve(amp-hour) capacity. That and when it's sitting for weeks on end without a charger to keep it topped up. You'll have that much longer to drive until the engine/fuel pump/lights quit than you would with a typical starting battery.
Look for high CCA, and high reserve minutes/AH. The higher the better, assuming you don't mid any extra weight and or size.
I'm running Interstates in my GT and my Van - never had problems with them and it's been a few years.
I have AC Delco in the Indy. Got another on warranty the second year (think it went flat and froze in the winter). The new AC has had no problems. I keep a battery tender on them during the winter months when not driven.
Cliff, a few years back back I picked up a battery tender of my car. It sits in the garage all winter, and i would go out and run it once or twice a week to keep it charged. Doing that I would have to replace the alternator every three years. I paid around thirty dollars for the tender that mounted in the car and and and the battery so all I had to do was plug it in and when I wanted to drive it, just unplug it and drive away. Now, even if it will sit in the garage for a few days I plug it in, and I haven't replace an alt. for 6 or 7 years.
When you park it for winter you can take the battey home with you and keep it charged and warm. Bring it back when you come to get the car. You'd just have any computer re-learn stuff happen again in the spring. There are also solar battery tenders, but likley that wont work in an off site storage either.
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 04-01-2014).]
Your best bet is remove battery and use battery tender to maintain the charge.
storing car in winter, More common is battery freezing. as charge level goes down, freezing point of electrolyte goes up.
cold weather + radio and ECM will draw enough MA to let the battery freeze after a month or two. battery freezes = junk. Do Not try to charge a frozen battery even when thawed out later. Total dead battery is a big safety problem. if you try anyway... use low amp charger, charge Outside in a trash bin. If battery blows then bin can help keep pieces and acid in the bin.
Ah spec is similar to reserve capacity spec... See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery Yes, In US Ah spec is mostly on "deep cycle" batteries. To meet EU rules Ah spec applies to all car batteries.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Cliff, sorry for the Walmart reference. You might try the Euro version, can't remember the name right now.
The suggested Battery Tenders do a great job maintaining the battery in the off season. Use them all the time here both for Fieros and boat battery. Though the batteries will not last forever I'm positive they add to the longevity.
The problem is that my car sits in a public garage, so I don't have anything to plug the battery tender into.
If you could get owner's permission to install a 12 volt Solar unit on roof of building, that might be a solution (small wires down to car shouldn't be too difficult), they aren't very expensive.
[This message has been edited by California Kid (edited 04-02-2014).]
I'd get a quick disconnect for the battery. You also might consider something like an Optima Yellowtop. It's not as high AH as the Redtop, but it's designed for deep cycle discharge/charging.
Apparently, the one I have in my car now (the dead one) (link), is no longer being made, and I'm left with only two alternatives.
A "cheap" ($110) 72Ah, 680 CCA battery (link), or the very expensive ($245) but very good Optima RT50F (link) with 50h (equals to about 90Ah in normal batteries) and 815 CCA.
I don't see Ah listed on spec sheets here in the US. and the CCA is the same....so I would go for the cheap one...if it fits. There is a size code used here, and the Fiero is 75...
I would get the Optima since it has everything you are looking for. But if the Optima becomes discharged real low you will need to charge it back to life with an AGM Battery Charger or by parallel charging using a standard flooded battery on a trickle charger like a Battery Tender. If the "cheap" battery becomes deeply discharged it might end up turn into expensive junk.
Apparently, the one I have in my car now (the dead one) (link), is no longer being made, and I'm left with only two alternatives.
A "cheap" ($110) 72Ah, 680 CCA battery (link), or the very expensive ($245) but very good Optima RT50F (link) with 50h (equals to about 90Ah in normal batteries) and 815 CCA.
"(equals to about 90Ah in normal batteries)" How you figure? Ah calc's are EU rules spec. Red top Optima is "normal" starting battery. Yellow top on Dk Gray case is "hybrid" of starting battery and Deep cycle. See Optima color chart in Cave, Battery
Any lead acid battery can freeze in winter. Cold weather alone will cut power available (Ah rating are calc at room temp... 25°C (77°F)) then add backup power to radio and ECM... Low charge means acid is now water and water will freeze very easy. AAA and most Auto Clubs get most dead battery calls in Winter for this reason. I don't drive much so I use battery tender to keep full charge this winter. You said no plug etc so you need to remove it.
AGM types like Optima still use wet electrolyte, Just less of it. Think that might save them but Optima is tight construction so maybe no. AGM can get damage by dropping etc but any cracks won't leak acid and many AGM doesn't care much about being upside down etc. Good thing when you remove battery next winter.
FWIW, I run the Optima red tops in my cars. I just replaced the one in my Formula after 8 years. I still would recommend a disconnect, especially on anything that isn't a deep cycle battery (which includes most "car" batteries and the Red top)
I would get the Optima since it has everything you are looking for. But if the Optima becomes discharged real low you will need to charge it back to life with an AGM Battery Charger or by parallel charging using a standard flooded battery on a trickle charger like a Battery Tender. If the "cheap" battery becomes deeply discharged it might end up turn into expensive junk.
A cheap, "dumb" trickle(1 or 2 amps) charger will do the trick. It won't turn itself off like a battery tender would do.
If you're going to disconnect it frequently, you can get a disconnect switch like they use on "race" cars, probably under $20. save messing around with the terminals and a wrench every time. Or if you're going to pull it out frequently, you could set it up with a quick disconnect plug like they use on battery equipment.
I had an optima in my Fiero before. The one that fits has both types of posts, top and side and here in the US it's listed as series 75/25. The one you linked too is just a side post. I tried fitting a 78 size battery in the Fiero before, borrowed it from my Roadmaster. It was too big to even get on the battery tray. I checked Optima's dutch site and I think you want the RT U 3.7 http://www.optimabatteries....No=28&modeltype=4133
Optimal cold cranking power up to 110% compared to conventional batteries
PowerFrame® technology
Meets OE requirements
Voltage (V) : 12 Cold Cranking Amps EN [A] : 680 Capacity (Ah) : 74 Type Post/Terminal : Dual SAE Minimum Weight : 17,87 kg Length (mm) : 278 mm Width (mm) : 175 mm Height (mm) : 190 mm Base Hold Down : B13
57219 Generic (China) ($128)
Voltage (V) : 12 Cold Cranking Amps EN [A] : 640 Capacity (Ah) : 70 Type Post/Terminal : Dual SAE Minimum Weight : 17,1 kg Length (mm) : 278 mm Width (mm) : 175 mm Height (mm) : 190 mm Base Hold Down : B13
The only one with gm screw ins is the optima? It would win. I believe the optima only has a 3yr warranty but you wont have to worry about acid leakage. Id see about a solar charger. Can you park in the garage near a window or source of sun? If you cant do solar charger, what about a quick disconnect battery cable? Just unscrew the cable when its stored.
[This message has been edited by smartaxel (edited 04-07-2014).]
He said Public parking.... Outside of car then any charger can be safety issue or target for thieves. If using car cover or car is buried in snow then solar power has problems. If you can see the battery, just any part to ID it thru Fiero engine vent, Optima can be a bigger target for thieves.
Optima says "fully charged it can remain unused for up to 12 months at room temperature (or below) and still start a vehicle." Winter time can still die and freeze after months of parking.
Again, Optima wins because AGM types won't leak even when case is cracked. You should remove it for winter. Keep it warm and should be ok. Make Sure it's charged for storage.
Be careful storing the battery. Remember a shorted battery dumps 200 amps and more. Worse, Many Kids likes sparks.
The only one with gm screw ins is the optima? It would win.
My Fiero has been converted and uses the round post clamps. I had actually installed these on my previous battery:
The only reason I want the side terminals is because it's a better fit and the cables don't have to be run in an angle.
I know the Optima is the better battery, but the price difference is huge. I only drive the Fiero for about 2,000 miles per year so I'm wondering if a cheap battery with a quick disconnect plug wouldn't be a wiser investment.
If you were to get the more affordable battery, Cliff. I would remove it when you go to store the Fiero, then just keep it indoors at home and you could hook it up to Battery Tender if you wanted to. Even if you were to have a quick disconnect on the battery, the cold temperatures will still take their toll on the battery's longevity.
If you didn't want to unbolt the battery every time and risk stripping the threads on the battery. Something like this would be very effective
