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Jason's "Fiamma" 86 GT Restomod by FieroGT42
Started on: 08-28-2013 08:40 PM
Replies: 6 (538 views)
Last post by: FieroGT42 on 09-05-2013 04:23 PM
FieroGT42
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Report this Post08-28-2013 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroGT42Click Here to Email FieroGT42Send a Private Message to FieroGT42Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Best viewed at 1080p.

It occurs to me that I've been working on this car for over a decade now (wow, I feel old) but I haven't made a dedicated thread yet. I'll start at the beginning...

Here's my 1986 GT when I brought it home. Unfortunately I had to drive it home on a very muddy gravel road that day. The best part was that the PO brought it up to the midwest just a year before I got it. Before that, it had spent its life in Alberquerque and Phoenix. It also came with two BIG folders of receipts for basically every repair, oil change and other service since it was new. Still has the delivery name/address on the warranty booklet! I think it had 128k miles and "never driven in anything worse than rain, and they don't get much of that down there", auto, standard options for a GT. PO put in custom full leather seats, aftermarket alarm that WORKS and causes no problems lol. Had an exhaust manifold tick but otherwise mechanically sound. Given the documentation and frame from the desert, I think $1500 was a pretty good deal in ummm... Before 2001 I'm sure. I forget exactly when.

"And the radio works", he said to me and my dad, "The kids like that".

Gave it a short drive, and it just fit my body like a glove. The angle that the small diameter steering wheel came down to, the dead pedal foot rest, shape of the seats, low seats with my legs forward. It just felt right. Reved it to 5 grand a few times just to be sure.

And so I brought home the first car I'd ever owned to the horror of my mother, to whom I explained that the entire front end is a crumple zone, Swedish safety standards, safest car without airbags, etc. etc.





[This message has been edited by FieroGT42 (edited 08-28-2013).]

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FieroGT42
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Report this Post08-28-2013 08:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroGT42Click Here to Email FieroGT42Send a Private Message to FieroGT42Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

FieroGT42

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Member since Jan 2005
Here she is cleaned up. I spent a long, long time fixing all of the tiny little issues.





New headliner, a couple of spots of body work, mediocre seals, plugs, wires, distributor, tires, sensors and sending units, ignition coil and module, interior repairs like curling vinyl on the console...

At this point it was (to this date) the most reliable car I've ever had. Daily driver until just a couple of years ago when I tore it down to do the first phase of my restoration. Everything mechanical is in great condition and NO rust in the midwest!

I also added a daytime running lights module. I think I was one of the first to test it. Still works great 10+ years later. It's amazing what clean, proper work can do.






First thing's first. Prevent any further damage. That A pillar had to be repaired the right way. Then I painted my brakes while I was doing the pads.




Door hinges were shot. Hanging the doors with new hinges, sans skins....




While the doors are off, I replaced the window motors. This was a REAL pain, but worth it!

I also put in NOS dew wipes. Jeeze, what would that cost these days... $700?




And I had to splurge on some Italian wheels so I can have shiny rimz like all the cool kids.




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more photos to come of the bodywork...

[This message has been edited by FieroGT42 (edited 08-28-2013).]

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Report this Post08-28-2013 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroGT42Click Here to Email FieroGT42Send a Private Message to FieroGT42Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

FieroGT42

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( reserved, cosmetic restoration)

This brings me up to about 2005/2006 where I'd saved up enough money to do a lot of cosmetic things. At this point, everything is still running so well that I don't even want to bother swapping the engine... yet

Here I was doing a writeup of the HU Mounts custom machined stereo surround, back lit to match the red dash






old dash



Need to find a picture of the new surround installed...

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And finally I saved up enough for a paint job and a set of AusFiero's side scoops. I got pretty nervous seeing the car sitting around like this, but it turned out pretty well.

While they had it stripped to the frame, I took the opportunity to look over the entire chassis. No rust anywhere. A few spots where the finish had worn off so they were taken care of before the rust could set in.




.

And here it is after the bodywork and painting! In one piece! After the new paint, I got another daily driver/winter car and saved the Fiero for nice weather.

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[This message has been edited by FieroGT42 (edited 08-29-2013).]

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FieroGT42
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Report this Post08-29-2013 07:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroGT42Click Here to Email FieroGT42Send a Private Message to FieroGT42Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Now I'm in the middle of mechanical restoration and an F23 swap. Since the original engine runs so well, I decided to do the F23 and swap the engine later.

It had 3 broken exhaust bolts that needed to be drilled and tapped carefully, and it had a bunch of oil leaks so I put in a ton of new gaskets and other misc. parts.

Valve covers got 1/8" of crud scraped off, cleaned, sanded, painted, and the brushed bars redone:





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The engine also got a rear main, front main, new timing gears/chain/tensioner, new water pump, harmonic balancer, gaskets on the valve covers, oil pan, exhaust, all kinds of stuff. Too much to list here!

I really recommend putting a heat sink on the distributor under the ignition module!

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I think that harmonic damper is shot... might as well paint the new one to match the valve covers.




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Then while that's out, I decided I'd redo the engine cradle and control arms. They had a lot of the finish just starting to chip off and get some surface rust. Fortunately I caught it just in time. And while I was working on that, I decided to just have them sandblasted and coated them in POR-15, then chassis coat.

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Yeah, that mount is shot too.


Only a bit of ingenuity required..




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FieroGT42
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Report this Post08-29-2013 07:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroGT42Click Here to Email FieroGT42Send a Private Message to FieroGT42Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

FieroGT42

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Member since Jan 2005
I have about four sets of shelves like this loaded with brand new parts to put on, most of which are completely packed unlike this one. If you look closely, you might see some interesting things unrelated to Fieros.


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Report this Post08-29-2013 08:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroGT42Click Here to Email FieroGT42Send a Private Message to FieroGT42Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My trunk lock has some kind of dust that has formed a concrete-like substance that's almost impervious... but some H3PO4 let me loosen it up so I could crack it open and clean it. It's a fairly simple sidebar security lock. A little JB Weld to hold a worn out spring-holding-dimple thing, and it's perfectly serviceable.



Gummed up lock. Apply phosphoric acid to eat the lime concretions. Clean lock.. so let's fix the part that holds the spring



Now that it's hardened, install the door and hold it while you place the plastic cover on. Then hold that (and the force of the spring underneath) by sticking something through the cap while you slide it on.

Then install the lock assembly into the trunk lock cover, holding the cap on in case the little legs are broken like mine.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy. Unnecessary? Completely. But 30 min of my time vs buying a new set of matching door/trunk locks, or else fiddling with 3 keys instead of two.. I'm satisfied and my factory key works in all locks.

Jason
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FieroGT42
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Report this Post09-05-2013 04:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroGT42Click Here to Email FieroGT42Send a Private Message to FieroGT42Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I wanted to change the release bearing in my F23 as preventative maintenance before it went in, and I'm told that the old bearing caps can be used or a spacer, so I decided to see what I could do with the old one that I was going to throw out anyway.

Bend the tabs to separate the bearing/race assembly from the piston. Cut off the thin metal that binds the bearing together.
Grinding down to the right height.
Beveling the inner edge for a good fit.
Then the inner section is ground to a press fit.
Spacer is pressed on. I'd say it fits pretty well if I can pick up up the whole HTOB assembly by holding the spacer.
Triple checking the spacing. Dead on where I wanted it.
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