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Shaved door handles? by 87FieroSport
Started on: 01-22-2013 01:14 AM
Replies: 23 (1211 views)
Last post by: solotwo on 08-20-2013 12:05 AM
87FieroSport
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Report this Post01-22-2013 01:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Anyone ever do this one yet?
Im looking into it, I think a 45lb Solenoid would be fine, with a lockout release cable.

This is for the GT, so maybe the buttons can be mounted behind the 1/4 windows?
I'll also be using a remote opener, the buttons are a safety, incase.
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BlackEmrald
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Report this Post01-22-2013 05:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlackEmraldClick Here to Email BlackEmraldSend a Private Message to BlackEmraldEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Are you planning to remove and shave all the body side moldings as well?
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Fiero84Freak
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Report this Post01-22-2013 07:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero84FreakClick Here to Email Fiero84FreakSend a Private Message to Fiero84FreakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yeah just shaving the door handles would look strange with the belt-line molding in place - unless you somehow just extended the belt line to make up for it. Then it would seem like a waste of time just to have the exact same look.

People have removed their entire belt line moldings from a stock body before and there are pics on the forum. It is a WHOLE lot of work though. Remember too the belt-line serves as a means by which to actually secure the body panels to the chassis, so if you fill it in it will be very difficult to perform body work should a panel become damaged.
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87FieroSport
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Report this Post01-22-2013 08:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I was honestly thinking of just removing the door handle only and slotting the door to put the button on the side of the door.
I'll take a look at it all during class and seeing what I come up with.

My other idea was using extra trim I have to just remove the handle and put trim in place of it

I'd he using a high tension bump stop to spring load the door to actually 'pop' open a bit
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CarverToo
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Report this Post01-22-2013 11:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CarverTooClick Here to Email CarverTooSend a Private Message to CarverTooEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'd like to see a little more on this concept. Keep us posted!
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87FieroSport
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Report this Post01-22-2013 12:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'll be ordering my poppers soon. I'm going to tinker with the extra door I have and see if I can come up with shaved handles without removin the entire moulding.

I have several ideas of button mounting, hiding and handle delete.
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couldahadaV8
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Report this Post01-22-2013 02:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for couldahadaV8Click Here to visit couldahadaV8's HomePageSend a Private Message to couldahadaV8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm building a 246GT Dino replica and I've removed the door handle and lock from the outside. I've put in the solenoids and the "popper". I have a bunch of pictures of how I did it and I'll post them. Mounting the solenoid so it didn't interfere with the window was the biggest problem. I'm using the remote, so I won't have a button mounted anywhere. I do have a hidden cable release, but I'm not going to post about that!

Rick
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post01-22-2013 02:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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87FieroSport
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Report this Post01-22-2013 02:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nice Antuzzi.

Well my issue is:
Will the doors (being they are heavy) actually "pop" out?

I can't find different tension stoppers, they don't rate them like that I suppose.
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slicknick
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Report this Post01-22-2013 02:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for slicknickSend a Private Message to slicknickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Whose car is that? I've been struggling to see if beechwood would work with dark blue and this makes it look like it could work. (sorry for the derail)
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87antuzzi
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Report this Post01-22-2013 03:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87antuzziClick Here to Email 87antuzziSend a Private Message to 87antuzziEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Fieros look fine without doorhandles and belt line trim left alone. As far as getting a pop door to pop open... Where the door meets the rear quater there is a half inch over hang and the steel behind it is hollow and easily accessible. Where the white rectangle is, thats where the popper will sit, behind the metal and held on via a l bracket and pop rivets. You could spot weld and then blend it back for a smoother look. This will be to pop the door out. You need to trim the plastic on the body panel where the lip is to allow the plunger to extend out of actuator. This can be as small as an 1/8 inch hole or you can us a half inch square driver and 2 part epoxy the body plastic onto the face of the plunger for a smoother look. If done right you cant tell its even there.
This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.
Another pic of a fiero with no door handles and belt line
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87FieroSport
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Report this Post01-22-2013 05:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm going with the SPAL-40 kit, do you mean the solenoid or the bump stop things?
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Custom2M4
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Report this Post01-22-2013 09:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Custom2M4Click Here to Email Custom2M4Send a Private Message to Custom2M4Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When I was in my younger days, I also installed such a kit on a Nova. I had alot of problems with it, and if I did it differently I would have a manual release cable (NOT electric) probally mounted in the drivers side wheel well. *You need to be able to work the latch with the cable, not the striker.

Good luck.

------------------

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87FieroSport
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Report this Post01-22-2013 10:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have had a Chevy S10 with then with no problems.
Electric and manual release cables.

I just don't know how well they are in Fieros
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86gtforme
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Report this Post01-23-2013 12:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86gtformeSend a Private Message to 86gtformeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I used 15lb solenoids in my car and as long as your latches are lubed they work fine. been using the, for 2 years now
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Report this Post01-23-2013 12:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No belt line, no door handles...but using the Corvette C6 Door switches



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87FieroSport
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Report this Post01-23-2013 12:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That is F$&king Sexy.

How hard is it to delete belt lines? And see how your door gap is?
That was exactly the concept I was going for!
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Report this Post01-23-2013 01:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's a lot of body work to remove the belt line. Be prepared for that. And removing your body panels are going to be more difficult, but not impossible. I can still remove my door skins and front and rear fascia. The front fenders had to be cut off when I added vertical doors, but they were bonded back on okay. The rear clip can't be easily removed, but that's true for 99% of the cars on the road, so it's no big deal.
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87FieroSport
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Report this Post01-23-2013 03:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87FieroSportSend a Private Message to 87FieroSportEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I *might* keep my belt line; but where your handle gap is;
That's the exact idea I was going for with my car
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CaptDale
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Report this Post08-19-2013 07:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CaptDaleClick Here to Email CaptDaleSend a Private Message to CaptDaleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
jscott1: do you have a build thread for those C6 handles? That is really nice!
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Report this Post08-19-2013 09:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for no2pencilClick Here to Email no2pencilSend a Private Message to no2pencilEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
oh man, yeah it is! Thanks... another thing on the winter to-do list that won't get done.
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Report this Post08-19-2013 10:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for johnyrottinClick Here to Email johnyrottinSend a Private Message to johnyrottinEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would think that if you wanted to maintain the beltline you could have a piece of trim plastic welded together to the correct length.
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jetsnvettes2000
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Report this Post08-19-2013 10:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetsnvettes2000Send a Private Message to jetsnvettes2000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
.

[This message has been edited by jetsnvettes2000 (edited 08-19-2013).]

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solotwo
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Report this Post08-20-2013 12:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for solotwoSend a Private Message to solotwoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by slicknick:

Whose car is that? I've been struggling to see if beechwood would work with dark blue and this makes it look like it could work. (sorry for the derail)


Snapperheads. He is from Grand Rapids. He has several nice Fieros. He has a web site. http://www.snapperheadperformance.com/
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