Well crap. Didn't know that. Thanks. Actually I remember Tstang429 let me use his OBD1 scanner, and didn't work because It wanted a number/letter from the VIN of the Cadillac, which I have no clue what it is or how to find out if I do need it.
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Originally posted by olejoedad:
Just my opinion, stay with the 235/60/16 on the rear and go 215/60/16 on the front (unless you plan on lowering the car).
Unless a Fiero is lowered, they have the 4X4 off-road look due to the large wheel well and small tire diameter. Edit to add - PAGE 4 OWNAGE!!!!!!!!
Yes, I plan on lowering the front with RD's 1" lowering ball joints, and the rear with coil-overs (maybe).
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 05-28-2011).]
I finally got my gauge face plate from TLG auto, and I think it was worth the long wait, it's a very good quality piece. So I got my gauge set finally installed.
Today I officially started the 88 cradle swap. I completely torn down the 88 cradle and suspension/brake components. Going to install poly bushings, new wheel bearings, coat it in POR-15, assemble it and then swap cradle's. Alex wants my current cradle for his 3800 project so that is one reason why I'm doing this, but not the main reason (which is obvious). Hopefully HT Motorsports will be up and running in time so I can get the adapter plate and coil-over kit I need.
Today I finished removing the old rubber bushings out, and I'm waiting for the new poly bushings to arrive.
I also painted my spare set of GT rims black, and if I can find cheap tires I'll be using these. Of course I'm going to sand down the silver edges to make them shine and remove corrosion and over spray.
Also today I modded the cradle for the correct mounting of the rear transmission mount.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 10-30-2011).]
I recently ordered new front upper and lowering ball joints, a 1" front sway bar, new LCA bolts, and other stuffs. Should be getting a lot of packages in the mail soon. Today I got my 12" 300lb coil-over springs.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-07-2011).]
Got the rest of my coil-over kit today, and my new rear wheel bearings. They all look great! I might just make my own adapter plates for the strut mounting, who knows.
Edit: Also washed my car today for the weekly car show, man my paint is getting worse. Big paint chips coming off everywhere, and the top half of the car is fading more and more. Oh well, for a while it will be whats under the decklid and the suspension that counts.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-08-2011).]
Busy day today. First off, I took my cradle to my friend's shop and got the 4th mount really welded on there this time, its not breaking off now! Then I got some Syl-Glide for the 88 caliper sliders, they were sure seized up. I had to use a screwdriver too get one out, and it was not only dry, but sticky! I couldn't believe it. It was pitted too a bit in some area's. I didn't get a chance to do anything else with it today. But anyway after Napa, Alex and I went to Ed Morad's in Cleveland, really awesome place, TONS of parts, everywhere, including complete L67's, L32's, LS4's, Ecotech's, Northstar's, 3100's, etc. And transmissions out the wahzoo. Really nice people there too, very friendly and knowledgeable. They are pricey, but you get what you pay for, and their parts are very much worth the price. We went because Alex's saw a L67/4T65e-HD that he wanted for his swap, and wanted to check it out. After driving home, I found I got a bunch of boxes in the mail. and they ended up being my large 1" front sway bar with mounting brackets and end links, a few LCA bolts, and my rear 88 poly kit! So I install the poly and installed the links/knuckles on the cradle, and it's all torqued down except for one trailing link bolt, as I had to cut it. Another one is on the way, as are the rear sway bar brackets. Coming together nicely so far! This weekend we are going to coat the links and cradle with POR-15.
...just some advice on the linkage, I find it easier to torque the suspension bolts if you put the nut on the adjustable toe link cadle side torwards the front of the car, and also on the trailing arms, put the nut on the outside of the cradle on the front mounting point - as you have them now it's hard to get a torque wrench in there once you have the wheels on and the car is sitting on it's own weight. That is to say you really should only torque the bolts once the car is standing on it's own feet and not with the suspension hanging.
What a painful and frustrating day. I wanted to install my new front sway bar, and..its was just frustrating to say the least. 3 of the 4 mounting bolts snapped, which I actually was prepared for. What I wasn't prepared for was the hardness of the bolts. That, with the fact that our only drill is a heavy, corded drill, made it really difficult. Also couldn't get the front end on ramps easily because it was too low to the ground. So, since the bracket was larger anyway to hold the larger sway-bar, I just drilled 3 new holes and screwed some thicker bolts in. Took me all day, but at the end, it was worth it, it handles much better, almost no body roll at all, corners without issue. The back end also doesn't "kick out" anymore on a hard turn. I am a bit upset over the fact that the lowering ball joints I got requires longer end links! so I'm going to have to remove the ones I just put in when I replace the ball joints and rubber bushings with poly. Don't know when to do that though. The shiny red sway bar looks out of place with my heavy rusted front suspension. You should have seen the old sway bar, it was rusted like crazy, so I think it was quite weakened from all the rust. While I was down there, I looked at the condition of the LCA bolts, and MAN are they rusted to no end. So glad I bought new ones, I have no idea how I'm going to get these out besides cutting, some of nuts look like a big blob of rust with the bolt.
Sorry for the poor pictures, I was laying on my side to get these, on a ground full of metal shavings.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-10-2011).]
Today my mom and I coated the top half of the 88 cradle in POR-15, and she did an awesome job! Looks really really nice, she was going to town at it, even in tight spaces that required the use of Q-tips! Afterwords, I started a template for making my own 88 cradle adapter plates, and modded the decklid-vent brackets to make room. Also drilled starter holes in the position the struts needs to be in.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-14-2011).]
Today I got the tires fitted onto the rims, and installed the rims on the Fiero! The 255's do fit without coil-overs but just barely. I think the tire is just barely hitting the lower spring perch. With coil-overs it won't be a problem. It's really, uh, different looking, looks like a dragster car kinda. The side shot was taken before I sanded down the lip of the rims this evening to make them look shiny. The angled side shots are with the lip sanded, looks much better without the over-spray from two different colors. The ride hasn't changed much, except the obvious more grip in the back with the 255 tires. It's funny how they are both 60 profile tires, but the much added width raises the sidewall of the tire that much.
I took a better shot of the larger front sway bar while changing the wheels, looks awesome next to the rusty dirty OEM front suspension.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-13-2011).]
Today I got the tires fitted onto the rims, and installed the rims on the Fiero! The 255's do fit without coil-overs but just barely. I think the tire is just barely hitting the lower spring perch. With coil-overs it won't be a problem. It's really, uh, different looking, looks like a dragster car kinda. The side shot was taken before I sanded down the lip of the rims this evening to make them look shiny. The angled side shots are with the lip sanded, looks much better without the over-spray from two different colors. The ride hasn't changed much, except the obvious more grip in the back with the 255 tires. It's funny how they are both 60 profile tires, but the much added width raises the sidewall of the tire that much.
I took a better shot of the larger front sway bar while changing the wheels, looks awesome next to the rusty dirty OEM front suspension.
Excellent swap and good progress, If you want the front to sit a little lower get some 1 inch lowering spings to go with the 1inch lower ball joints, Heres a pic of how that setup sits
Also today I swapped the EGR solenoid with another one from pull-a-part, and it made no difference, so I think the new O2 sensor with fix the problem. It is running a bit rich, so It's most likely the cause of my issue.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-14-2011).]
That does look better, your right. The rear tires are white walled, but they are in such poor shape (the letters) that Conrad's flipped them so you couldn't see them. Your gold paint look likes my dad's, Gold fades easily.
That does look better, your right. The rear tires are white walled, but they are in such poor shape (the letters) that Conrad's flipped them so you couldn't see them. Your gold paint look likes my dad's, Gold fades easily.
I know I hate that the gold fades so bad but oh well im gonna get it repainted back to the factory gold and black
Thanks! I was planning on chopping 1/2 to 1 coil off the stock springs, so yea I'm hoping for that same look.
EDIT: Also today I swapped the EGR soleinold with another one from pull-a-part, and it made no difference, so I think the new O2 sensor with fix the problem. It is running a bit rich, so It's most likely the cause of my issue.
I'd bet it's that Bosch O2 sensor. Your code 48 is set by the PCM when the O2 fails to indicate a leaner condition in 3 of 5 tests. The PCM checks O2 to detect if the EGR system is working. Either your O2 is reacting too slow (very common with the bosch sensors as is the rich condition), your EGR valve is not opening (leaking vacuum), or the solenoid is not commanding it to open which you've already eliminated as the issue. Its a simple system and easy to diagnose in this case.
Nice work on your car Matt. That cradle is turning out beautiful! Later.
[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-14-2011).]
I'd bet it's that Bosch O2 sensor. Your code 48 is set by the PCM when the O2 fails to indicate a leaner condition in 3 of 5 tests. The PCM checks O2 to detect if the EGR system is working. Either your O2 is reacting too slow (very common with the bosch sensors as is the rich condition), your EGR valve is not opening (leaking vacuum), or the solenoid is not commanding it to open which you've already eliminated as the issue. Its a simple system and easy to diagnose in this case.
Nice work on your car Matt. That cradle is turning out beautiful! Later.
Well here are some things I know, 1. I can move the EGR valve by hand, which causes the engine to bog when running (normal), 2. I did not feel like EGR valve move when I revved the engine. Not sure if that's normal or not, but I know it did on the 2.8 and 3. the exhaust does smell rich, so i'm going to swap that O2 sensor when it gets here and see what happens.
The valve should move just like the 2.8 does. You can check the solenoid by removing the vac line from it to the valve and reving with a finger over the hole. It should try to suck your finger in. It that works then the solenoid is good and the valve itself is probably leaking at the diaphram.
You could also put on a vac pump and check the valve that way. As long as it moves under vacuum then its good.
If both of those check out then its the O2. You probably wont get a code for the O2 either. Those codes only set if it stays extremely rich or lean for extended periods of time or shows no switching at all.
[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-14-2011).]
Interesting day, but first I want to discuss my EGR issues.
Fieroseverywhere, first off, I just did check my EGR valve, and with my little vacuum pump, tried to create a vacuum on the valve. Nothing, zip. Zero vacuum. I tried moving the valve with my finger on the vacuum inlet on the valve and it moved freely both up and down. I think it's shot.
Secondly, I don't know what's going on with the solenoid. The top fitting is to the EGR fitting right? Well which one on the bottom goes to the TB? I had the one without the orifice that is off center on the bottom connected to the TB, and the top one connected to the vac gauge, and while revving it, I got no vacuum either. (gauge/pump does work)
Well today I installed my Turbo Sunbird hood vents! Needs to be painted again, but I really like them, and they make a big difference on cooling and high speed stability. Then after the long highway test drive, it didn't start again in my driveway. The battery line to my starter fell out of its terminal again, so I totally redid it this time with a new terminal, fresh wire end, and solder. Hope its fixed for a while now.
Nope, however I don't like it getting too hot since its an aluminum block, and the automatic transmission cooler lines are right up against the hot coolant line (driver's side), so I think I was getting the 4T60e a bit too hot.
I haven't had any cooling issues with the stock radiator and cooling system in my 4.9/4T60E set up (other than a collapsed hose at the water pump inlet).
And FYI, the transmission "cooling" lines are actually there to bring the trans fluid up to temp quickly, as the auto trans doesn't like low temps and warms slowly (about 10 to 15 miles of driving) - in the winter it wouldn't even get up to optimal temps on short drives.
Interesting day, but first I want to discuss my EGR issues.
Fieroseverywhere, first off, I just did check my EGR valve, and with my little vacuum pump, tried to create a vacuum on the valve. Nothing, zip. Zero vacuum. I tried moving the valve with my finger on the vacuum inlet on the valve and it moved freely both up and down. I think it's shot.
Secondly, I don't know what's going on with the solenoid. The top fitting is to the EGR fitting right? Well which one on the bottom goes to the TB? I had the one without the orifice that is off center on the bottom connected to the TB, and the top one connected to the vac gauge, and while revving it, I got no vacuum either. (gauge/pump does work)
If the valve wont hold vacuum then its no good. That will have to be replaced.
On the solenoid. There is a single metal inlet on one side. That goes to the throttle body. The other side has 2 plastic outlets. These go to the valve and something else (I have my second one capped and can't remember where is usually goes). With the engine running hold the throttle at ~2000rpm. If the solenoid and wiring are good then you should be able to feel vacuum on the outlet side. If it still doesn't work trace the wires down with a multimeter. I know when I first did mine I missed one of the wires.
Ordered a new EGR valve from NAPA, it will be in tomorrow. While I was there I snapped another pictures just because. I also got my new Denso O2 sensor in the mail and installed it (wow that was a PITA, my poor hands). I'm excited to use the 88 cradle and do all things I want to do while its out, but I just don't want to drop the cradle again. Lol, but it would be for the better if I did because the 88 cradle has the MUCH improved 2nd engine mount that my setup really needs. My engine flops around too much because of the one bolt holding the broken mount. Speaking about the 88 cradle, I installed the rotors and front (non e-brake) caliper's on the wheel bearing today. While I got gas, I took a picture to give a view of the 255 tires, they are really wide but sidewall strength will be ok because its a 7" rim and they don't stick out too far.
Got EGR, tried the same vac test, I couldn't get any vacuum to hold on it either?! So I said, screw it, and returned it. I'm not going to waste $92 on a stupid EGR that I possibility didn't need to replace. The solenoid doesn't seem to be working anyway. I'll deal with it later.
Also had a small score today, got a large floor jack from a garage sale for $25. Works great!
Edit: Whoops, forgot to say that I added center wheel caps on my rims today.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 06-16-2011).]
Big paint chips coming off everywhere, and the top half of the car is fading more and more. Oh well, for a while it will be whats under the decklid and the suspension that counts. 
