1981 Suzuki GS450 is the bike.

From the factory it's got an endless chain, ie one with a riveted master link. I know very little about chains, but it seems to me I ought to be able to replace this chain with one that uses a clip-type master. Is it any less strong? Is it strong enough for me to use in place of the endless link chain? Is strength even an issue with a 450 cc bike that makes 58 hp at some ungodly RPM I'm never going to run at?

...or am I going to be firing my chain through someone's windshield if I do that, and had better put on another endless chain if I don't want to be sued?

The chain does not need replacing, but I'd like to take it off to clean it and soak it in oil. This bike sat in a shed for 5 years before I bought it; while I have cleaned and lubed the chain, it's still not 100%.

I also haven't done an exhaustive search for chain breaking/riveting tools, but the one place I have looked says a set of tools is about $100. That'd be a bit much for a tool I'm not likely to use more than once or twice.

Thanks, all!

Ed

I have restored and owned a lot of older bikes and I don't remember seeing a chain that didn't have a master link. You can grind the heads off a link and push it out if you're looking for a cheap method. I got rid of my collection except for a Honda SL350 and a BMW K100.

Much to my Mum's annoyance( ), we used to boil our bike chains to get rid of all the horrible muck that used to clog it up, then soak/rinse it in parafin, before oiling it in a chain oil bath.
The way bicycle chains are joined using a link plate and a spring clip. I can't see why that would be any weaker than an endless chain?

[This message has been edited by fierofetish (edited 05-31-2012).]

The endless chain is just another tool to separate you from your money. Seriously.
More and more, things are made to be non serviceable. Disposable, replaceable, to bring in more money.
What's a new chain cost versus the tool that you would only use once ? A better question would be can you find a new master link ?
Before a chain is worn out, it stretches. They make half links to compensate for the stretch, if need be.
I work with commercial machinery which is chain driven. Some chains four and six links wide. A chain is designed to interact with the sprockets. You should be able to determine if a chain is bad by looking at the rollers (which lay down inside the sprocket valleys).

I have had some atv's that were heavily built(some above 100 hp). I have never had one that I needed an endless chain. I have had to buy some higher tensile strength chains than stock, but all have had masterlinks. And on another note, if your chain wears enough thatyou need a half link, throw it away and get a new one. It's wore out

Okay, thanks, everyone! That makes me feel better.

The main problem with the chain on my bike is just that it is DIRTY and RUSTY. I hosed it down with brake cleaner but that didn't get all the crud out, and after relubing it the thing is still squeaking when I turn the rear wheel by hand. I don't think it's worn out or stretched beyond its service limit but I want to take it OFF so I can soak it.

So I'll just find myself a #530 master link or two, and go that route. Thanks again!

Ed

quote Originally posted by mferrell: On another note, if your chain wears enough that you need a half link, throw it away and get a new one. It's wore out

I guess I agree with that. Thinking about it, the chains I use half links in are on equipment which more than likely is non adjustable. Not at all like a bike wheel.

I'll be a naysayer on this topic. I do not feel clip links are as strong or secure. The first and only time I used a clip link it failed after about 4,000 miles. This was on a SV650 which is about 65hp, it was a stock sized chain (525 if I recall). When the chain failed it only took out the chain guard, it then bounced around a little marking up the rear rim and swingarm. The chain was luckly then launched away from the bike at high speed, never did find the old chain to deconstruct the failure. I am glad the chain didn't take out my leg or get caught up in the rear rim.

I replaced the chain with a rivited link. That worked for 6,000 plus miles before I sold the bike.

Endless chain is normally from manufacturers and will mayhaps require swingarm removal to replace loike with loike.

Soft link is a replacement for endless that allows you to fit without swingarm removal but requires a rivet tool (or a couple of hammers and practice).

Clip link is a circlip type design normally used for lower powered bikes. If you use circlip type there is a correct/incorrect way round of fitting the clip.

I use Soft links as they are generally higher specification chains suitable for larger boikes. Once you have had a clip link failure you will probably start hunting for soft link alternatives.

Well, I got my FT500 (~35 hp) with a clip-style master link and I've put 4000+ miles on it trouble free.
I replaced the dead 530 chain on my Katana 600 (~80-ish hp) with a clip-style link and have probably close to 1000 miles on that with no issue.

Do pay attention, there is a wrong/right way to install the clip in relation to the direction of chain travel.

I assume that the "right" way is such that the open part of the clip faces towards the back of the bike?

Ed

Right.

The reason being if it catches something, frame, casing, chain guide, rock etc then there is less chance of it being hoiked off.

I would think, that a rivited chain would be used on a raceing bike. By the way if you have a metal fuel tank look in inside for rust.

I have a sand drag racing ATV. I use a 125 link 520 chain. I use the clip links. Never had an issue with them.
I'm pushing close to 70hp. Full throttle launches & ~65mph in 300 feet.
The key is chain maintenance. Keep it clean, oiled or waxed & you shouldn't have any problems.

I had a Honda 750 break a clipped master link. The chain jammed up on the transmission's drive gear and broke out a piece of the transmission case, rendering the engine/transmission useless. I managed to find another engine from a wrecked Honda for $750 - but what an expensive nuisance because of a chain.

My Honda Goldwing GL1500 is shaft driven

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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-02-2012).]

I've actually got a spare engine for this bike (needs rebuilding but it's a spare) but hopefully I won't need it.

I'm starting to believe shaft or belt is better than chain--well, I've always liked shaft drive anyway, but I was always a bit iffy on belts...until now.

Well, it sounds like a clip link will work just fine as long as I install it right and keep my eye on it. Thanks, everyone!

Ed

Edit: Tank's clean inside. The bike was stored properly. Except for the chain.

[This message has been edited by edhering (edited 06-02-2012).]

Resolution: got a clip-type master link from Ace for $2.60.

When I got it off, I discovered that the chain had some really stiff links in it. Cleaned it with brake cleaner, scrubbed it with a brass wire brush--when I was done, the pan I'd used had 1/16" of rust and CRUD in the bottom of it. But the chain was nice and limber and looked nearly new.

Soaked it in oil overnight, let it drain for about 8 hours; put it back on, and it's nice and quiet and works great.

Thanks all!

Ed

I have been a rider since 1975. The first bike that I had with an endless chain was a 1977 KZ650. As said before an endless chain is just another way to get you to spend money. I have used master link type chains on my ZRX with 125 hp at the rear wheel. They usually last somewhere between 20 -30 K miles before needing replacement. (the ZRX currently has 75k miles and is on its 3 rd chain 2 which have had a master link) . Daily maintenance is the key to long chain life. Check it for loose links and rollers, keep it adjusted properly, keep it lubed, if you get caught in the rain, lube it as soon as you get finished riding for that day. I lube my bikes chain every 200-300 miles (about twice a week these days) About once a month, I use WD-40 to clean the chain, let it dry then lube it. Maxima Chain wax is what I use to keep the chain lubed.

I have heated grease in a double boiler to thin it and let the chain soak it up, but that was my dirt bike.

I didnt read all of the thread, but do NOT use a clip type master link for anything but a bicycle. Use a rivet type master link. EK makes rivet types that you dont need a rivit tool to use. But you need to pay to play and the best rivet tool you can buy is only 70 bucks. If you think your saving your money by using a clip type and when the clip comes off that chain whips around and destroys your transmission, how much money was saved??