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Any appliance techs? by Mickey_Moose
Started on: 01-21-2011 11:20 AM
Replies: 10
Last post by: MidEngineManiac on 01-25-2011 07:15 PM
Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post01-21-2011 11:20 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
I have a Whirlpool fridge (model: GR9SHKXMS01) approx 6 years old that has over the last little while been giving me some grief.

Basically we keep getting wate inside of the lower section, as ice keeps building up in the drain tube fromthe freezer section. We have had a repair person out on 3 occasions (once under warrenty) and the problem still exists - the last tech installed a piece of wire wrapped around the heater and feeds down the tube to melt the ice. Well that did not seem to work.

Now is there a way I can check that the heater is even working? Can I measure the resistance of the coil to verfity that it is good (what is a good reading)? Can I also measure if there is power at the plug (does it have power always, or only at certain times - and how can I get the controller to turn it on)?

...I am sure it can't be that hard to fix, I just don't want to pay for yet another service call.

Thanks
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jimbolaya
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Report this Post01-21-2011 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jimbolayaClick Here to Email jimbolayaSend a Private Message to jimbolayaDirect Link to This Post
I'm not a Tech, but I play one on PFF. Seriously though, I had a Whirlpool, and the same thing happened. Apparently they are notorious for this. Fortunately I found the solution. I bought another refridgerator. An LG with the freezer on the bottom. Sorry, wish I had better news for ya.

Jim

[This message has been edited by jimbolaya (edited 01-21-2011).]

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FrugalFiero
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Report this Post01-21-2011 12:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FrugalFieroDirect Link to This Post
The defrost heater and timer are likely working. If they weren't you would get major ice buildup on the evaporator coil located in the freezer and within a few weeks the fridge / freezer would not get cold. Sounds like the drain tube from the bottom inside of the freezer to the drain pan at the bottom outside of the fridge is clogged / kinked. Have you tried to blow some compressed air thru the drain line?

Also, many people put the temp control in the "middle" of its setting. On my Amana, the middle is too cold. If the freezer is too cold, it may not warm up enough during the defrost cycle to melt ice buildup in the drain tube.

Use a thermometer to check the freezer / fridge temps. 0 degrees is good for freezer, 35-40 for the fridge. Any lower and you're just wasting energy.

[This message has been edited by FrugalFiero (edited 01-21-2011).]

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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post01-21-2011 12:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FrugalFiero:

The defrost heater and timer are likely working. If they weren't you would get major ice buildup on the evaporator coil located in the freezer and within a few weeks the fridge / freezer would not get cold. Sounds like the drain tube from the bottom inside of the freezer to the drain pan at the bottom outside of the fridge is clogged / kinked. Have you tried to blow some compressed air thru the drain line?

Also, many people put the temp control in the "middle" of its setting. On my Amana, the middle is too cold. If the freezer is too cold, it may not warm up enough during the defrost cycle to melt ice buildup in the drain tube.

Use a thermometer to check the freezer / fridge temps. 0 degrees is good for freezer, 35-40 for the fridge. Any lower and you're just wasting energy.



Ok, thanks for the suggestions, I will try blowing some compressed air down once the ice thaws - as for the temps, I am assuming you are talking °F - right (sorry that Canadian metric system in me)?

A new fridge would be an option if this one wasn't so new still...although I am sure that would make the misis happy as she wants a bottom freezer.

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 01-21-2011).]

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FrugalFiero
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Report this Post01-21-2011 12:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FrugalFieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

as for the temps, I am assuming you are talking °F - right (sorry that Canadian metric system in me)?



Yep - degrees F, Eh!

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Firefox
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Report this Post01-21-2011 11:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FirefoxSend a Private Message to FirefoxDirect Link to This Post
Check the seals around both doors. It's possible that you are getting condensation inside the fridge/freezer from air leakage. I was a repair tech for a while and saw this all the time....

Mark
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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post01-23-2011 10:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Firefox:

Check the seals around both doors. It's possible that you are getting condensation inside the fridge/freezer from air leakage. I was a repair tech for a while and saw this all the time....

Mark


The seals look ok, what is the best way to check that they are making a good seal?

Not so sure that it is drawing in humidity since the air has been so dry lately (less than 5% - not sure why the house humidifier can't seem to compensate).
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Patrick's Dad
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Report this Post01-23-2011 11:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Patrick's DadClick Here to visit Patrick's Dad's HomePageClick Here to Email Patrick's DadSend a Private Message to Patrick's DadDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

A new fridge would be an option if this one wasn't so new still...although I am sure that would make the misis happy as she wants a bottom freezer.



I only sell them. Most manufacturers quote an expected life for a new appliance of seven to ten years. One benefit is that a new machine will be more energy efficient, as the gubment standards keep getting more strict.

OTOH, if you have extended coverage (though six years seems to be a bit long), keep getting it fixed for free until it runs out, then jump.
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Xerces_Blackthorne
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Report this Post01-23-2011 11:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Xerces_BlackthorneClick Here to Email Xerces_BlackthorneSend a Private Message to Xerces_BlackthorneDirect Link to This Post
Send a message to MidEngineManiac. IIRC, I think he has mentioned something before about being some sort of appliance tech (?) although I could be wrong...
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Firefox
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Report this Post01-24-2011 07:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FirefoxSend a Private Message to FirefoxDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:


The seals look ok, what is the best way to check that they are making a good seal?

Not so sure that it is drawing in humidity since the air has been so dry lately (less than 5% - not sure why the house humidifier can't seem to compensate).



Check the seals with a long and thin piece of paper. There should be a drag when you pull it past the seal after closing the door on it.....



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MidEngineManiac
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Report this Post01-25-2011 07:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MidEngineManiacSend a Private Message to MidEngineManiacDirect Link to This Post
Check your P-M's M.M.----but the guys are on the right track.

Proof yet again PFF can fix ANYTHING in existance......wonder how many space shuttle experts we have ?

[This message has been edited by MidEngineManiac (edited 01-25-2011).]

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