I have a Whirlpool fridge (model: GR9SHKXMS01) approx 6 years old that has over the last little while been giving me some grief.
Basically we keep getting wate inside of the lower section, as ice keeps building up in the drain tube fromthe freezer section. We have had a repair person out on 3 occasions (once under warrenty) and the problem still exists - the last tech installed a piece of wire wrapped around the heater and feeds down the tube to melt the ice. Well that did not seem to work.
Now is there a way I can check that the heater is even working? Can I measure the resistance of the coil to verfity that it is good (what is a good reading)? Can I also measure if there is power at the plug (does it have power always, or only at certain times - and how can I get the controller to turn it on)?
...I am sure it can't be that hard to fix, I just don't want to pay for yet another service call.
Thanks
IP: Logged
11:20 AM
PFF
System Bot
jimbolaya Member
Posts: 10652 From: Virginia Beach, Virginia Registered: Feb 2007
I'm not a Tech, but I play one on PFF. Seriously though, I had a Whirlpool, and the same thing happened. Apparently they are notorious for this. Fortunately I found the solution. I bought another refridgerator. An LG with the freezer on the bottom. Sorry, wish I had better news for ya.
Jim
[This message has been edited by jimbolaya (edited 01-21-2011).]
The defrost heater and timer are likely working. If they weren't you would get major ice buildup on the evaporator coil located in the freezer and within a few weeks the fridge / freezer would not get cold. Sounds like the drain tube from the bottom inside of the freezer to the drain pan at the bottom outside of the fridge is clogged / kinked. Have you tried to blow some compressed air thru the drain line?
Also, many people put the temp control in the "middle" of its setting. On my Amana, the middle is too cold. If the freezer is too cold, it may not warm up enough during the defrost cycle to melt ice buildup in the drain tube.
Use a thermometer to check the freezer / fridge temps. 0 degrees is good for freezer, 35-40 for the fridge. Any lower and you're just wasting energy.
[This message has been edited by FrugalFiero (edited 01-21-2011).]
IP: Logged
12:08 PM
Mickey_Moose Member
Posts: 7573 From: Edmonton, AB, Canada Registered: May 2001
The defrost heater and timer are likely working. If they weren't you would get major ice buildup on the evaporator coil located in the freezer and within a few weeks the fridge / freezer would not get cold. Sounds like the drain tube from the bottom inside of the freezer to the drain pan at the bottom outside of the fridge is clogged / kinked. Have you tried to blow some compressed air thru the drain line?
Also, many people put the temp control in the "middle" of its setting. On my Amana, the middle is too cold. If the freezer is too cold, it may not warm up enough during the defrost cycle to melt ice buildup in the drain tube.
Use a thermometer to check the freezer / fridge temps. 0 degrees is good for freezer, 35-40 for the fridge. Any lower and you're just wasting energy.
Ok, thanks for the suggestions, I will try blowing some compressed air down once the ice thaws - as for the temps, I am assuming you are talking °F - right (sorry that Canadian metric system in me)?
A new fridge would be an option if this one wasn't so new still...although I am sure that would make the misis happy as she wants a bottom freezer.
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 01-21-2011).]
Check the seals around both doors. It's possible that you are getting condensation inside the fridge/freezer from air leakage. I was a repair tech for a while and saw this all the time....
Mark
IP: Logged
11:58 PM
Jan 23rd, 2011
Mickey_Moose Member
Posts: 7573 From: Edmonton, AB, Canada Registered: May 2001
Check the seals around both doors. It's possible that you are getting condensation inside the fridge/freezer from air leakage. I was a repair tech for a while and saw this all the time....
Mark
The seals look ok, what is the best way to check that they are making a good seal?
Not so sure that it is drawing in humidity since the air has been so dry lately (less than 5% - not sure why the house humidifier can't seem to compensate).
IP: Logged
10:56 PM
Patrick's Dad Member
Posts: 5154 From: Weymouth MA USA Registered: Feb 2000
A new fridge would be an option if this one wasn't so new still...although I am sure that would make the misis happy as she wants a bottom freezer.
I only sell them. Most manufacturers quote an expected life for a new appliance of seven to ten years. One benefit is that a new machine will be more energy efficient, as the gubment standards keep getting more strict.
OTOH, if you have extended coverage (though six years seems to be a bit long), keep getting it fixed for free until it runs out, then jump.
IP: Logged
11:05 PM
Xerces_Blackthorne Member
Posts: 6163 From: Mertztown PA Registered: Mar 2008
Send a message to MidEngineManiac. IIRC, I think he has mentioned something before about being some sort of appliance tech (?) although I could be wrong...
IP: Logged
11:32 PM
Jan 24th, 2011
Firefox Member
Posts: 4307 From: New Berlin, Wisconsin Registered: Feb 2003
The seals look ok, what is the best way to check that they are making a good seal?
Not so sure that it is drawing in humidity since the air has been so dry lately (less than 5% - not sure why the house humidifier can't seem to compensate).
Check the seals with a long and thin piece of paper. There should be a drag when you pull it past the seal after closing the door on it.....
IP: Logged
07:34 PM
Jan 25th, 2011
MidEngineManiac Member
Posts: 29566 From: Some unacceptable view Registered: Feb 2007