I've got a 67 Impala, its got a 350 sbc in it. I was doing some stuff, and the wire running FROM the starter (post R) directly to the HEI coil on top of the distributor fell out of the BAT it was plugged into, and landed on the block. It shorted something out, and when I plugged it back in the car wouldnt run. It still turned over, and acted like it would run, with the key turned all the way to the start position, but when released into the run position after it fired up it would immediately stall, no stuttering or anything. I replaced the wire running from the starter to the HEI coil BAT post, the one I grounded out, cause it was melted and messed up. That didnt fix it. Then I pulled the starter, had the start checked even though it was turning over just fine and everything worked well in the START position. It of course tested fine, but I replaced the solenoid, since I believed it might have shorted out. THat did not solve my problem.

I tried replacing the ignition tumbler switch with the keys, the electric part that the harness plugs into on the switch, and still nothing. I'm guessing there is either an in-line fuse, somewhere I can't see, or a fuse missing somewhere. I want someones opinion on this fuse block. I know the fuse in the middle is missing, I kind of broke it a few minutes ago. I've traced the lines back FROM the ignition switch to this block and there are no fuses here.



Any tips or shortcuts I can use to bypass this issue?

Matthew H.

Since HEI wasn't introduced until '73 or '74, someone has obviously added that onto your car.

You're going to have to trace the wire that plugs into your BAT terminal on the HEI and find out where the break is. If it sounds like it's trying to start when you're cranking, it's probably a remnant of the old system that's feeding the BAT terminal voltage only while cranking, which was common in the '60's to feed the coil/points 12V instead of a reduced 6-9V for longer point life for easier starting and shorter crank times.

John Stricker

Well the 350 isn't even stock, it was all put in aftermarket. The engine is from a 70 impala or something else.


Anyways, I did trace that wire, it ran to the starter on the R post. I replaced that entire line. I then traced the other wire, running to the S post on the starter up to the block going into the interior. That wire was whole and intact.

A little off topic, but you need to post a pic of the car. 67 Impala mmmmm.

Jim

You probably burned out a "fusible link." It's a smaller gauge of wire meant to burn out in this type of situation. I burnt one out on my 82 Z28 when I didn't disconnect the battery to replace a part. Even thought I had a pretty good idea where they were all located, I never did find the culprit. I performed and "end-around" by bypassing the link. So, find where the links are located and check them with a continuity tester to find the culprit(nothing like advice from a guy who couldn't find his own).

[This message has been edited by carnut122 (edited 01-26-2009).]

now back to the problem.

quote Originally posted by MetroMatt: now back to the problem.

Thank you!

Jim

quote Originally posted by carnut122: You probably burned out a "fusible link." It's a smaller gauge of wire meant to burn out in this type of situation. I burnt one out on my 82 Z28 when I didn't disconnect the battery to replace a part. Even thought I had a pretty good idea where they were all located, I never did find the culprit. I performed and "end-around" by bypassing the link. So, find where the links are located and check them with a continuity tester to find the culprit(nothing like advice from a guy who couldn't find his own).

what I don't understand is, if I DID burn out a fusible link on the wire coming from the harness from the interior to the S post on the starter, how does it still turn over. wouldn't it render that wire compltely dead until the fuse was replaced, thus not allowing any power to tell the ignition to turn over? my stepdad keeps harping on about this, but I dont comprehend how that would work. it has to be inside, something to do with the RUN position wire right?

John Stricker is correct, that is a different distributor than came in that car.

Now why won’t it start?

Fusible link? Maybe but you will see it, it looks all bubbled.

The one possibility I can think of is does this have the coil in the distributor cap? If it does it is possible the wire you messed up is under the coil cap on the distributor.

Check there.

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't.
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

I wanted to post my solution.

I cut out the wire coming from the R post on the starter running to the distributor. I ran a full 12v wire to a toggle switch, and then ran that to the distrubutor BAT part, and that way I have 12v all the time whether its running or starting or anything, I get power to it at all times as long as the switch is on. NOw it runs!!

and yes, as I mentioned before, it does have an HEI distruboitor

[This message has been edited by MetroMatt (edited 01-26-2009).]

quote Originally posted by MetroMatt: now back to the problem.

damn beautiful car

Sounds like you fried the solonoid on the starter. While your cranking it lettin power to the distributor until you let go of the key and the solonid is suppost to switch to constant power off the other terminal. Get a $30 starter and your set. Did that with my 73 blazer way up in the Rockies once fixed it like you did yours. stayed that way for 5 years. LOL

Heh heh, not wanting to hijack this thread, but I've got to post a picture of my first car - a 1967 Chevrolet Caprice.

That's me, age 19, standing there beside the road to Penticton BC for some summertime cruising way back in 1975.



My dad still has the 1967 Chev Bel-Air he bought brand new in '67 sitting in his underground parking. Less than 100k miles on it!

Sweet cars! I had a 69 4door.

quote Originally posted by MetroMatt: I wanted to post my solution. I cut out the wire coming from the R post on the starter running to the distributor. I ran a full 12v wire to a toggle switch, and then ran that to the distrubutor BAT part, and that way I have 12v all the time whether its running or starting or anything, I get power to it at all times as long as the switch is on. NOw it runs!! and yes, as I mentioned before, it does have an HEI distruboitor

We used to call that hot wiring a car.
Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't.
Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.