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Cement questions - fixing cracks by fierospeeder
Started on: 07-08-2001 09:17 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: My7Fieros on 07-13-2001 10:15 PM
fierospeeder
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Report this Post07-08-2001 09:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierospeederClick Here to visit fierospeeder's HomePageClick Here to Email fierospeederSend a Private Message to fierospeederDirect Link to This Post
Im fixing the cracks in the garage using Quickrete Vinyl Concrete patcher.

Im not getting a great result with it. The top of the concrete comes out hard, and below the crust is just powder when i scrape it with my crowbar or chisel.

I also have chips, and im using the same product. I let it dry for a few days and the chips are about 1/4 to 1/8 in depth. The product says it can handle that, but i still get powdery results when i scrape it with my chisel. Tried different mixtures of water and the same.

Im going to try Sand topping mix tomorrow with a concrete adhesive to make it stick.

I was wondering how do you know that cement has the right mix, should it look like a wendy's frosty?? When i did the vinyl as the instructions 7 parts to 1 part water, it was very powdery and seemed dry, other cements have a 5 to 1 mix and when i did a small sidewalk it came out fine.

Should i use the sand mix instead?

thanks

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rogergarrison
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Report this Post07-10-2001 01:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
ive seen this new stuff that puts a whole new top layer on, looks brand new. Part of the problem with patches is the edges dont stick. look at all the patches on hiways that fall apart quick. a thin layer on all outlast it by far. would think that would be the way to go. you just pour it on and spread it out with a large squeegee, its about a 1/4 to 1/2 thick. thinking of doing my garage. (my roll around stool is always getting stuck in little holes/cracks ..)

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cadaver
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Report this Post07-10-2001 03:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cadaverClick Here to Email cadaverSend a Private Message to cadaverDirect Link to This Post
There is this stuff called Ardex. It can be applied as thin as 1/4 without cracking and lifting. It was designed for repairs. I have used it many times and am very pleased with it.
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fierospeeder
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Report this Post07-10-2001 03:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierospeederClick Here to visit fierospeeder's HomePageClick Here to Email fierospeederSend a Private Message to fierospeederDirect Link to This Post
tech support from http://www.quickrete.com replied to my question and he suggested to use their resurfacer also.

told me to clean it very well, powerwash it etc...

I have to check out if my home depot sells it.

Im going to redo my cracks with the sand cement. The vinyl doesn't work well, and you have to really have to make a smooth finish for it to be strong. The instructions for it is very touchy about adding water.

A month from now, im finally going to paint the concrete. Heres the link again that someone posted before http://www.griotsgarage.com for the epoxy paint.

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JSocha
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Report this Post07-10-2001 11:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JSochaSend a Private Message to JSochaDirect Link to This Post
Some people may want to know this either now or later on life.

Does it work on "certain types" of women?

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thomas_l
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Report this Post07-11-2001 07:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for thomas_lClick Here to visit thomas_l's HomePageClick Here to Email thomas_lSend a Private Message to thomas_lDirect Link to This Post
For small chips you can use an epoxy mix. It's sort of expensive, but the patch will outlast the rest of the slab and it's easy to do:

1. Clean the damaged area good and make sure it's dry - compressed air rules for this.
2. Get some general purpose two-part liquid epoxy. Mix enough to fill the damaged area and blend in some dry sand.
3. Fill in the damaged area and finish it with a putty knife or trowel.
4. Clean that crap off your tools before it sets

All crack jokes aside - any "repair" products will fail sooner or later. In fact, filling them in with a non-compressible "patch" will make them get worse. The best you can do is make sure the area is clean and dry and use a silicone caulk. You can get colors that are close enough and the silicone will keep moisture and stones out. Use a finger to finish the seal just below the surface. Clean & dry is the theme here - no sealers or patches stick to dirt, oil, or water.

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theogre
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Report this Post07-12-2001 11:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
I've only done a little patching on a wall here.... I asked around some before I did.

The hardest part is getting it all clean. Must be free of loose crap, grease, oil, all that. Just as important.... you have to use cleaners that won't leave allot of residue. Simple Green or CitriSolv rinse away pretty easy.

Next part.... leave the area you are patching damp. Let some water soak into the existing concreate. Concrete doesn't "dry". It chemically reacts and it needs water to do this. If the existing concrete is dry it will suck the water from the patch and stop the reaction too soon. That's probably why it's powder below the skin.

Keep the patch damp after it's applied. Dampness will make it set stronger. Cover it with plastic or something to keep it damp. Yes, once it starts setting you can mist it with more water if need be.

If it's a larger crack in a wet area, consider "hydraulic" concrete. This stuff will work even under water. (That's what I used to patch my wall... tought stuff.) Expensive but was worth it for me.

For fine cracks a liquid crack sealer might be better. That will flex and not just pop back out.

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My7Fieros
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Report this Post07-13-2001 10:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for My7FierosSend a Private Message to My7FierosDirect Link to This Post
heh heh heh...he said "crack"
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