Today was my first "real" drive in my Lambo Diablo kit car since I pulled out the SBC/5 speed and swapped in a 31k mile LS4/4t65ehd. Im truley happy with the swap so far... I still have a little more street tuning to do and have a dyno rental on May 1st for some fine tuning.
There seems to be no one way to do these swaps, everyone does a something different. For this swap I decided to do a lower budjet type of swap, instead of buying all the super go fast and "pretty" parts. My goal was just to put together a good driver, something I could drive on roadtrips, and do the swap pretty fast. So I set a budjet of $2500 and 4 months and as of right now it looks like I will be right on budjet and a little ahead on my time frame. But only due to some great folks that really helped me on the engine managment (and a bunch other things) like Fieroguru and Kemp3 here on the forum. Without them and a few others my drivetrain would still be on the engine stand..
Instead of going with the factory ecu I decided to try out a fairly new DIY engine mangement system, Microsquirt from the Megasquirt family. This saved me some money and pushed me into a situation where I would have to learn more about EFI and tuning. I also decided to go with a stand alone transmission controller from http://magnashift.com/ these are Fiero guys and are currently building a LS4. For the axles I contacted FieroKing who has built some great LS4 swaps. Everything else I kinda just cobbled up here at home... I fabbed up my own motor mounts, alternator relocation bracket, ect. I made a wireless paddle shifter out of some used Audi shift paddles and a $20.00 Ebay car door lock/unlock kit.
As far as mods to the LS4 all I did was swap out the stock LS4 intake manifold with a intake manifold from a LQ4 truck engine and left the rest of the engine alone, for now. I already have a new LS9 cam, lifters, valve springs, head gaskets, push rods, and a few other items for future use.
Everything is not 100% back together yet but here are a few pics-
Nice looking ride and neat swap. IMO, the LS4 is not an easy swap but if you want a V8 and an auto this may be the most logical choice. To my knowledge V8 Archie does V8 auto swaps but not sure if he offers them with more modern LS engines. BTW, how does the Megasquirt interface with the VVT (displacement on demand feature) of the LS4 and does your auto shift correctly?
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: BTW, how does the Megasquirt interface with the VVT (displacement on demand feature) of the LS4 and does your auto shift correctly?
The LS4 doesn't have VVT, only AFM (formerly called DoD). They are different technologies. The AFM is easily disabled in the factory ECM, so, assuming the mechanical limits of the valvetrain are not exceeded, it should run fine on something like the Megasquirt without it. Disabling of AFM in the ECM is a very common quick tune mod that is done on many of the GM cars and trucks with AFM (5.3L trucks, G8, Camaro, Corvette, etc…). Given the list of planned mods, it seems like diabloroadster wants to remove the AFM anyway.
She is a beauty! How much time does the complete build have in it?
I purchased 2 non-running fieros (1985 /1988) and the Diablo kit in Dec '11, and started the tear down/stretch. I used the 1985 tub and the suspension form the '88. I purchased the Diablo kit also Jan '11 also but by the time it got here to Texas from S. Carolina it was Feb '11, (1 month later) I already had all the frame work done. Six months later -it was painted, running driving (w/sbc) insured, inspected in July '11.
So a little more than 6 months total, but I worked 7 days a week, atleast 6 hours a day and up to 20+ hours a day sometimes. I spent about $20,000 total during this time to build it. It was a fast build and I didnt do as good as job as I would have liked on the body work and paint. But I drove it for a year with the SBC/5 speed, while I was working on a longitual ls3 twin turbo to swap in. After 6 months of working on it- I figured that the twin turbo LS3 just wasnt a good idea.
About 3 or 4 months ago in Feb '13 I decided to scrap the LS3 and go with the LS4, so I found a complete LS4 drivetrain, and now that is done I guess I will drive that around for a while and see how I like it. I really need to work on some body work and paint now. Yesterday on my first drive with the LS4 I backed into my Hummer really damaging my bumper. I have almost knocked off both mirrors and there is scratches all over the Diablo now.
So plans are body work/paint and finish the a/c this summer, do some more suspension and brake upgrades over the winter. Then "maybe" install all the turbo stuff I have left over from the abandoned LS3 build.
[This message has been edited by diabloroadster (edited 04-27-2013).]
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11:57 AM
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15146 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
The LS4 doesn't have VVT, only AFM (formerly called DoD). They are different technologies. The AFM is easily disabled in the factory ECM, so, assuming the mechanical limits of the valvetrain are not exceeded, it should run fine on something like the Megasquirt without it. Disabling of AFM in the ECM is a very common quick tune mod that is done on many of the GM cars and trucks with AFM (5.3L trucks, G8, Camaro, Corvette, etc…). Given the list of planned mods, it seems like diabloroadster wants to remove the AFM anyway.
That is my mistake and you are correct. The LS4 uses AFM that shuts off and turns on cylinders by using an electric solenoid to control the valve. VVT systems just vary the timing and duration of the camshaft in a number of different ways. Thank you for pointing this out. With either option the ECM/PCM must account for this.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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02:39 PM
Kemp3 Member
Posts: 282 From: Carmel Valley CA, USA Registered: Sep 2007
Great Job Tony ! swap looks real clean . Congrats on hitting the road and I am sure the tuning will be somewhat easy with the VE analyzer. Timing will be the only challenge and if you have a load dyno near by then that will be easy as well.
He is using a microsquirt , its a basic version of a MS2-extra . MS3 and all variants are capable of running AFM and VVT if the user wants that. VVT has been well documented and running as it can help with performance. AFM not as much as most users are performance driven but there are some MPG users that are trying every trick to get the best mileage possible.
Great Job Tony ! swap looks real clean . Congrats on hitting the road and I am sure the tuning will be somewhat easy with the VE analyzer. Timing will be the only challenge and if you have a load dyno near by then that will be easy as well.
He is using a microsquirt , its a basic version of a MS2-extra . MS3 and all variants are capable of running AFM and VVT if the user wants that. VVT has been well documented and running as it can help with performance. AFM not as much as most users are performance driven but there are some MPG users that are trying every trick to get the best mileage possible.
Once again looks great Tony !
-Kemp
Couldnt have done it with out your help!
Since I went back and used the factory LS4 belt tensioner I cant use my timing tape and my timing mark with a timing light cause the way the belt runs. But hopefully I can get it worked out on the dyno, the guy who owns the dyno has never worked with Micro/Megasquirt but I think we can get it figured out.
Meanwhile I went into the garage today and saw this-
Its leaking right where the transmission line goes into the transmission. It was leaking just a couple of drops then I tightened it a bit now its leaking alot... Just one more of the little things I need to address before I go to the dyno on May 1st.
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04:33 PM
Kemp3 Member
Posts: 282 From: Carmel Valley CA, USA Registered: Sep 2007
Its leaking right where the transmission line goes into the transmission. It was leaking just a couple of drops then I tightened it a bit now its leaking alot... Just one more of the little things I need to address before I go to the dyno on May 1st.
Common problem. It can be solved by using a special fitting that snaps in in place of the steel trans line. . Try Partsmaster P/N 397 fitting. Available from Rock Auto or eBay. This nipple allows a direct connection to the 4T65eHD with std trans cooler hose and a hose clamp. Remove the holding spring from the trans fitting, pull out the steel line, put spring back on, push Partsmaster 397 fitting in, push on 3.8" trans cooler hose to the nipple and clamp. Done. A 10 minute job at best.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Common problem. It can be solved by using a special fitting that snaps in in place of the steel trans line. . Try Partsmaster P/N 397 fitting. Available from Rock Auto or eBay. This nipple allows a direct connection to the 4T65eHD with std trans cooler hose and a hose clamp. Remove the holding spring from the trans fitting, pull out the steel line, put spring back on, push Partsmaster 397 fitting in, push on 3.8" trans cooler hose to the nipple and clamp. Done. A 10 minute job at best.
Thanks for the heads up! I found the part listed as "Hayden 397", I pick one up this afternoon. I will try to fix it tomorrow and see how it works...
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07:55 PM
Apr 29th, 2013
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15146 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
Thanks for the heads up! I found the part listed as "Hayden 397", I pick one up this afternoon. I will try to fix it tomorrow and see how it works...
Glad to help. What happens with the 4T65eHD is that when the trans is removed from the donor car, the lines stay attached to the transmission. When even slight bending pressure is applied the sealing surfaces on the ends deforms causing a leak. That why I use the Partsmaster/Hayden 397 fittings. The only tricky part is removing the holding spring from the OEM fitting and not losing it. I could not get a standard FI line removal tool in there so I just removed the holding spring from outside the fitting.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I got the trans hose changed out today, everything looks good so far- no leaking.....
The trans didnt leak at first when I did the swap but I think I know what caused it. I went back and zip tied everything to clean everything up and Im thinking the trans hoses didnt like being zip tied tight. It looks like they need to be able to move around a bit. But that Hayden fitting worked great, I might go ahead a do the other hose as well.
Tomorrow is the last day I got to get all the little projects fixed before I go to the dyno on weds. I need to figure out if/how I can get my VDO tach to work with the Microsquirt. Get the trans cooler fan tied in to the temp controller, bleed the brakes one more time and about 100 more little things....
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11:01 PM
Apr 30th, 2013
Kemp3 Member
Posts: 282 From: Carmel Valley CA, USA Registered: Sep 2007
I am fairly certain the squirt can drive your tach , does your VDO want a 12v square or a 5v ?
I dont know what it is with the VDO Tach but my M-squirt does not like it, period.... I tried rewiring it, changing the dip switches, everything I could think of- it would always display some kind of "conflict with microsquirt" message. I purchased one of those $15.00 mini tachs from Harbor Freight today and it works perfect it even works with the Tach Out turned off...
I had to change the settings switch on the Harbor Freight tach to 4 cylinder mode to get the correct RPM readings, but since Im running batch fire that makes sense. I tried changing the VDO to 4 cylinder mode but that didnt work either. I finally gave up on it for today, I had alot of other things to get done.
I worked almost all day on the car and just like an hour ago finished up almost everything I needed to do but still have a few more things I want to do. I got a call from the dyno place today asking if I was still planning on coming tomorrow, they have a guy that has appointment on may 9th but wanted to come in tomorrow. So I gladly changed with him to give me a few more days.
When I was running the sbc I ran 2 electric water pumps, one on the engie and one between the 2 rear radiators. I had a 160 degree thermostate in the sbc and it never got over 170-180 degrees. I put a 160 degree thermostate in the LS4 but Im considering taking out the inline waterpump. I drove the car this evening and did a little street "auto tuning" (ran like a bat out of hell!) but it was running around 180 degrees but the weather was kinda coolish this evening and I really didnt drive it very hard just eased into a few times.
If I take out the inline waterpump it will flow better (i dont have the pump wired right now) so maybe the temps will come down, but I still might need it when we hit the 105+ Texas summer days.... So thats just one of the things I still need to work on. I have found that my little shifter cable adapter thingy that I made needs some adjustment. Sometimes it doesnt hit 'Drive" just perfect. I have to shift it to park then drive a couple times to get it perfect, sometimes its fine. I also still need to burn off the remaining 'cheap gas' that was in the car before I swapped drivetrains and put in some good gas and do about a 100 or so miles of street tuning / logging to see how the AFR is looking before I go to the dyno also....
So maybe by may 9th I will have all of this worked out....
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10:03 PM
May 22nd, 2013
Marine1981 Member
Posts: 1364 From: Austin, Texas, USA Registered: Jan 2011
The car has been running great latley, put it on the dyno a week ago and put out numbers to be expected. I didnt do any dyno tuning just 5 pulls but it went pretty smoothly. I have been driving it quite a bit, even drove it to my office this past weekend. On sunday morning I just happen to glance at my amp gauge and it was on 10amps, (its normally around 13) I was thinking "oh _____, mother _______, son of _______, but it made it to my office and later in the day all the way home without leaving me stranded. I have used this same chrome 1 wire alternator on a few different projects so it didnt suprise me that it went out. I got another one on the way should be here on friday, so I can get it back on the road.
I tore apart the interior this week only to find out that the Vintage Air Compact kit I got doesnt fit like I thought it would. I was orginally for my 1968 GMC truck anyway, so I got to come up with a new plan for the a/c quick! I got a different condenser/main unit coming soon to test fit to see if it will fit better.....
I update this thread with some pics/videos soon....