came up with the fool idea of putting the alternator adjusting bolt on the underside of the alternator. You would think the they would have considered the tight installation and put it on the top side where you could bloody get to it without:

A. Crawling under the car and going from underneath.
B. Trying to stuff your hand down alongside the strut tower to get a wrench on it.

GRRRRR.

Anyone got any others?

YES! id like to skin the engineer that came up with the crazy ass wiring in the 68 corvette for the wiper door and motor! what a pain in the ass to trouble shoot and further more id like to strangle the idiots at letric limited for reproducing the harness with the wrong colors! and the moron that supplied all the vendors and tech manuals with the wrong information to boot! seems the only one with a brain is willcox corvette they have it sorted out thumbs up to them!.

fiero related hmmm id say getting the coolant tubes out from under the drivers side what a mega pain in the butt!!!

Not off the top of my head but i do have a solution for you... get a set of ratcheting box ends. You can hit that bolt with ease.

you can just loosen the top bolt and pry it from there...thats what i did...good enough untill spring lol.

quote Originally posted by jetsnvettes2000: YES! id like to skin the engineer that came up with the crazy ass wiring in the 68 corvette for the wiper door and motor! what a pain in the ass to trouble shoot and further more id like to strangle the idiots at letric limited for reproducing the harness with the wrong colors! and the moron that supplied all the vendors and tech manuals with the wrong information to boot! seems the only one with a brain is willcox corvette they have it sorted out thumbs up to them!. fiero related hmmm id say getting the coolant tubes out from under the drivers side what a mega pain in the butt!!!

coolant tubes come out super easy, when the front crossmember isnt there :P

Isn't there a kit for fitting a tensioner so you don't have to adjust that stupidly positioned bolt? I think it was Dodgerunner who made them.

I'm trying to think of which particular annoyance has earned an engineer a good backhanding, but the only job I've done recently was consequently, tightening the alternator belt. And it was a real mongrel of a thing. So yep, +1 for a clap across the face for that guy.

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Or if you take the back right wheel off, its right there?

quote Originally posted by Finally_Mine_86_GT: Not off the top of my head but i do have a solution for you... get a set of ratcheting box ends. You can hit that bolt with ease.

Got those, ***** was getting the friggen thing on the bolt..

quote Originally posted by Finally_Mine_86_GT: ... get a set of ratcheting box ends. You can hit that bolt with ease.

Yup. These are handy. Duke alternator tensioner bolt is on top, V6 has alternator tensioner bolt on bottom.

On my V6, I pull the out fastener at the back for the rubber splash shield and push it out of the way. I can get my arm in between the tie-rod and frame. Don't even have to jack up the car to tighten the alternator bolt.

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I have one of DodgeRunner's tensioner brackets. Its an easy install and totally eliminates belt squeal. Very much worth the money!

The worst design that I have ever seen is on a Ford Expedition. You have to remove the entire dash and instruments to get to the heater core. That is an 8 hour job in the book and could easily take more time than that.

Nelson

heater core on an expidition isnt any worse than any other yukon or suburban. actually not all that bad compared to some stuff.
i do on the other hand want to know what is up with these sealed wheel bearings that come with no grease in them?

I will throw out the heater core in a Fox body mustang also. What a PITA!

What's wrong with getting under? Ya lazy? On the third gen Camaros, getting under is the easiest way to change the spark plugs, so no point in complaining about that. And that has to be done way more often than a stupid alternator adjuster bolt on a stupid non-V8.

quote Originally posted by fierosound: Yup. These are handy. Duke alternator tensioner bolt is on top, V6 has alternator tensioner bolt on bottom. On my V6, I pull the out fastener at the back for the rubber splash shield and push it out of the way. I can get my arm in between the tie-rod and frame. Don't even have to jack up the car to tighten the alternator bolt.

I do it the same way, takes me all of 90 seconds to tighten an alternator belt. 30 seconds to position the crow bar at the top and wedge it against the dogbone then 30 seconds to get on the ground and another 30 to tighten up the bolt. I guess you could add an extra 30 seconds if you need to get under there and loosen the bolt ahead of time. For me the biggest pain in making sure the belt is on all the groves perfect.

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quote Originally posted by hnthomps: The worst design that I have ever seen is on a Ford Expedition. You have to remove the entire dash and instruments to get to the heater core. That is an 8 hour job in the book and could easily take more time than that. Nelson

Dodge Dakota is the same way, it is said that the factory starts with the heater core, and builds the truck around it.