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My Rust-Oleum paint job by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT
Started on: 11-02-2006 08:36 PM
Replies: 354
Last post by: Arizona85GT on 01-15-2011 11:32 PM
TorqueWench
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Report this Post01-09-2007 05:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TorqueWenchSend a Private Message to TorqueWenchDirect Link to This Post
wow, that turned out quite lovely; i'm impressed, and optimistic of my own results.
let me ask,
after wet sanding, before applying a coat, what do you wipe the surface with?

here's my mirror today after wet sanding:

tonight it gets coat 5.
i've cleaned my brush, and my surface is sanded, dry, and clean. hopefully, i won't get those little speck thingies in the paint this time.
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Report this Post01-10-2007 12:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
I've been using tack cloth to wipe before recoat.
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Report this Post01-10-2007 11:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for cjgableSend a Private Message to cjgableDirect Link to This Post
Boy, that is shining up nicely. I can't wait to see how it holds up to the weather, maybe a pressure wash.

------------------
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Report this Post01-14-2007 08:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
I am wondering what grit should be used when finishing the final coat.
I used 1500 grit and wet sanded until water was milky and guess what.. My deep beautiful shine is gone. I have buffed it with polishing compound about 6 times and although it looks ok, It does not have near the shine that it did.
What did I do wrong? Maybe should have waited a month? Maybe sanded a little too much?
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David DeVoe
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Report this Post01-19-2007 12:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David DeVoeSend a Private Message to David DeVoeDirect Link to This Post
Hey, whats up with this thread? Inquiring minds want to know?
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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post01-19-2007 05:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jeffndebrus:

I am wondering what grit should be used when finishing the final coat.
I used 1500 grit and wet sanded until water was milky and guess what.. My deep beautiful shine is gone. I have buffed it with polishing compound about 6 times and although it looks ok, It does not have near the shine that it did.
What did I do wrong? Maybe should have waited a month? Maybe sanded a little too much?


I was hoping for an answer to the above, however, We have decided to go ahead and paint the 85se 4.9 car using this method. We have to install the side scoops/ change the luggage rack out for a Fiero wing/ replace the bumper pads with aero facsias/ do the front hood venting all before we can sand and get ready for paint---and all before March 23rd!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Report this Post01-19-2007 06:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for whadeduckSend a Private Message to whadeduckDirect Link to This Post
Keep up with TorqueWench. She keeps painting things little by little. Looks like a good job on her mirrors so far anyway.

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Report this Post01-23-2007 11:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for David DeVoeSend a Private Message to David DeVoeDirect Link to This Post
I wonder whats going on with the guy who started this thread? He was painting his GT black.
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Report this Post01-23-2007 05:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jake_DragonSend a Private Message to Jake_DragonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David DeVoe:

I wonder whats going on with the guy who started this thread? He was painting his GT black.


//www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/035077.html

[This message has been edited by Jake_Dragon (edited 01-23-2007).]

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twofatguys
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Report this Post01-23-2007 11:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for twofatguysSend a Private Message to twofatguysDirect Link to This Post
O.K. You guys have my attention, I have talked my wife into letting me practice on the hood of her Fiero, right now its primer grey, and I'm painting it black to match the rest of the car, this should be unique, but if its easier to apply black with a roller than spraying I'll be a believer. I will do before, during and after pics, and since its a daily driver I can keep posted on durability.

Now, to find a place to put the hood while I paint it so it wont be in the way

How much paint do you guys figure it'll take to do the hood, and the light covers?

Brad
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Report this Post01-24-2007 12:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TorqueWenchSend a Private Message to TorqueWenchDirect Link to This Post
you shouldn't need much at all, especially at thinned ratios approaching 50/50. a pint should do nicely.
i found that as i kept going in and outof the pint, the buildup inside started breaking off into my mixture, and causing artifacts in my painted surface. to solve that, i bought a new quart of Regal Red, and cleaned the small pint can completely, to use as my working can, wherein i poured 1/3 of the quart into the smaller container, and use the smaller container to go in and out of day to day,
rather than continually opening and closing the larger can. this way i use it up before going to the larger quart for a new supply.
i keep the contents of the small can pre-thinned, around 70/30 paint/spirit and ladle a couple of tablespoons out into my pyrex measuring cup at paint time, and add a little more mineral spirits, as the need presents itself.
this is coat 5, before color-sanding

i'm letting it dry thoroughly for another day, before i sand it. i'm gonna airbrush on thinned clear spar urethane mixed with red metal flake.
i have the right-side mirror laying beneath it, being completely stripped, prepared for the same treatment. it's been difficult doing a small complex geometry object, but rewarding, as it looks great, even with slight brush streaking. i can't wait to see how it sands, takes clear, and polishes up.
good luck, i look forward to seeing someone else try this project.
jeff, how is your quarter panel looking?
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Report this Post01-25-2007 03:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
"jeff, how is your quarter panel looking?"

Thanks for asking----I have decided to do the whole car---that quarter panel was only a test bed as my quarter panels are being replaced with Driven Visions side scoops on the 4.9 car as well as the 1/2 fiero trailer we will pull behind it.
\
I was dissapointed with the final result but I believe I got too vigorous with the wetsanding on the clear coat and prolly removed most of it. Will probably use 2000 grit and be very gentle next time, as well as waiting longer ---maybe a few weeks.

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Report this Post01-25-2007 04:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David DeVoeSend a Private Message to David DeVoeDirect Link to This Post
Some thoughts on the use of spar varnish from a boat restorer. It is true that spar varnish contains uv blockers to help prevent fading, but it is also true that real spar varnish never dries completely hard. This helps prevent cracking as the wood underneath expands and contracts in response to humidity changes. I say wood because that is what varnish was formulated to cover. The best one part varnish I can find lasts only 2 or 3 seasons before it starts to get dull and look like crap. 2 part finishes will probably last longer, but cost more and are more finicky to apply. I am not a chemist, this is just my experience. The worst luck I've EVER had with varnish on a boat was Min Wax spar which didn't even last one season. The sun just ate it up. My 2 cents.
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Report this Post01-25-2007 05:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for F-I-E-R-OSend a Private Message to F-I-E-R-ODirect Link to This Post
Just a note about clear coats, I read somewhere that you can tint clear coat to give the finish a deeper color- thoughts about this idea?

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TorqueWench
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Report this Post01-25-2007 06:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TorqueWenchSend a Private Message to TorqueWenchDirect Link to This Post
i just started on my rocker panel. it doesn't have a primer on it, so there's not much for the paint to snag to, and i'll be paying close attention to how it behaves this week.
i also got some chinchilla fur in it. damn furballs. that's what you get for turning the apartment heat on, before your part has dried.
i read your comment above on issues with spar urethane. i'm not sure what to think at the moment. on one hand, these finished parts would have several coats of a protective wax on them, and be washed pretty regularly, to remove all the crud,
and also i would think it would be a good thing that a clear coat not be too hard, to flex with vibration, not to mention where it's covering urethane parts like the front and rear bumper cover.
but if as you say, you've seen spar urethane deteriorate after just one season, then i'm gonna be pretty bummed out this time next year.
i'm fearful of using a 2-part clear, because of the isocyanate hazard, since i have these little chinchillas in the house.

my FieroGT does live in a closed garage when its home, so it will have a lot more protection from the elements, and i will be watching how the parts age very carefully.

and at the least,
it's a fun and crafty project ^_^

ps.
has anyone ever compared a Firebird and Fiero mirror housing together? the Fiero mirror is HEAVIER!
weirdweird.
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David DeVoe
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Report this Post01-25-2007 08:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David DeVoeSend a Private Message to David DeVoeDirect Link to This Post
Torquewrench,
Fun and crafty indeed ! I have been wowed to say the least at the interest in painting cars with rustoleum and rollers.
So you have cinchillas right in your apartment? Thats not a joke? I had an agouti once but it got out and gnawed all the wires at the back of my stereo. I donated him to a kindergarten class. BTW I tried to view the pic you posted of your fifth coat but it would not open. Bummer as I wanted to see what the red was looking like
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Report this Post01-25-2007 09:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TorqueWenchSend a Private Message to TorqueWenchDirect Link to This Post
yup, 2 of the little furballs. i luv 'em.
when i view the page, i see the picture fine,
but then it's coming from my browser cache.
click this
http://alisonrain.terminalg...rFinalColorCoat5.jpg

i have coat 6 drying now, because i wet-sanded through an edge to the metal. i HATE when i do that. grr...
and it's TorqueWench
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Report this Post01-26-2007 09:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David DeVoe:

Some thoughts on the use of spar varnish from a boat restorer. It is true that spar varnish contains uv blockers to help prevent fading, but it is also true that real spar varnish never dries completely hard. This helps prevent cracking as the wood underneath expands and contracts in response to humidity changes. I say wood because that is what varnish was formulated to cover. The best one part varnish I can find lasts only 2 or 3 seasons before it starts to get dull and look like crap. 2 part finishes will probably last longer, but cost more and are more finicky to apply. I am not a chemist, this is just my experience. The worst luck I've EVER had with varnish on a boat was Min Wax spar which didn't even last one season. The sun just ate it up. My 2 cents.

Is spar varnish the same as spar urethane? I used spar urethane
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Report this Post01-26-2007 09:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post

jeffndebrus

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I am wondering how the project will progress when rollerpainting verticle panels as opposed to one which was lying flat?
I can just imagine the runs.

The original author did not use a clear coat. But to be honest I wasn't that impressed with the shine until I did clear coat.
I'm sure black would be easier than yellow though. But yellow is in our color scheme soooooo

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Report this Post01-27-2007 12:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Joseph UpsonSend a Private Message to Joseph UpsonDirect Link to This Post
Enough with the chit chat, post some more pictures. I'm planning to do this but painting my stripped and weathered front bumper with Rustoleum primer from the can is the most I've done so far and that was just to make the car look more uniform since the car is silver and the bumper was stripped down to its natural black color. The primer went on well and didn't seem to be proaned to running. I put it on thick since I have stress cracks in the bumper along with several good size pits from over zealous stripping that I'll need to figure out how to fill.
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Report this Post01-29-2007 01:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David DeVoeSend a Private Message to David DeVoeDirect Link to This Post
TorqueWENCH ! I stand corrected and cravenly beg your pardon ( imagine now that I'm groveling at your wenchly feet). Saw the pic and it is good. If the rest of the car comes out like your mirror it'll look great.
Dave
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Report this Post01-29-2007 08:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TorqueWenchSend a Private Message to TorqueWenchDirect Link to This Post
thanks Dave!
here's the group i'm working on

look, i made a face!

(bear in mind, everyone, that i'm using a foam brush, not a roller, due to the small size of the parts, and the contours. because of this, i don't ever have to 'tip',
and doing it with a roller would be a little less precise on some of these areas. i shall use a roller on the wing and quarter panels, when i get to them)

on both mirrors, i stripped them completely to bare metal, then used spray-on black rust-oleum primer, inside and out, in lots of light coats, until a nice dark solid coverage was acheived. i wet-sanded the primer afterwards.
before each coat, i wipe the part with mineral spirits to remove any residues, and let it air dry. then i wipe lightly with tack cloth to remove any lint or chinchilla fur(thanks a lot, Kazooie and Totoro)

i work in a clean, warm, temperature-stable, low-humidity environment, where dust and debris is vacuum'd daily from my work area, i have a window fan blowing fumes out the window,
and i use kitchen implements like rubber spatulas and pyrex measuring cups so i can be precise in my stirring, measuring, and clean-up. a new piece of 2-ply paper-poly drop cloth used each time and disposed of. making sure to keep the parts undisturbed while they dry. and giving each coat enough time to dry. the can says 16 hours between recoats, but i double that time before color-sanding, to account for thicker gummy spots.


jeff,
i don't think any runs in a vertical panel will detract from the result. just coat and sand as you have been. runs in my mirrors just meant a little extra careful pressure on that spot until level and the seam line removed. the next coat is forgiving.

F.I.E.R.O,
i've heard of that too, but i don't want to introduce too many variables into my project, as i'm already going to do something along those lines in mixing Kustom metal flake in red and gold into my clear coats of spar urethane, airbrused on in several layers. i'm going to test this on a spare panel i have cleaned up, before trying it out on my colorcoated parts.

here's my rocker panel:


i don't post as often as i otherwise could, because i'm also working on my other project, my WS6-esque taillight mod:

but that helps moderate my tendency to wanna rush drying times, or to cut corners.

[This message has been edited by TorqueWench (edited 01-29-2007).]

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jeffndebrus
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Report this Post02-09-2007 03:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
Work has begun again--

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Report this Post02-09-2007 05:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post

jeffndebrus

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180 then 320 with the da sander
Now we have applied the first coat of rustoleum primer mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits and spread with a small high density roller.
I live in a neighborhood which is surrounded on three sides by salt water marsh so the no seums (small biting flies) are plentiful and brutal. You can see the little devils where they perished in my paint.
I will wait 20 minutes and apply the second coat of primer.

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Report this Post02-09-2007 06:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post

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Report this Post02-09-2007 06:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for paulcalSend a Private Message to paulcalDirect Link to This Post
Someone must be really upset about Ann Nicole Smith passing away....
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Report this Post02-13-2007 01:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jeffndebrusSend a Private Message to jeffndebrusDirect Link to This Post
Well, I was unhappy with the coverage I was getting with the 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and primer so I did a coat of primer without mineral spirits. It covered well but did not self level. The texture was about like a latex wall paint sooooo---
I spent about an hour wet sanding it today.
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Report this Post02-13-2007 04:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ParaStaticSend a Private Message to ParaStaticDirect Link to This Post
Thats looking great, I have read that entire thread on MoParts. Rustoleum----v

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Report this Post02-13-2007 02:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DandRautoSend a Private Message to DandRautoDirect Link to This Post
the coverage is very thin, but it has to be for the process to work. Many thin layers will eventually cover it.

If you are in a hurry then this isn't the process to use. One thick layer may cover it, but it will not look like auto paint.

[This message has been edited by DandRauto (edited 02-14-2007).]

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Report this Post02-13-2007 07:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ParaStaticSend a Private Message to ParaStaticDirect Link to This Post
When I did my car, it took about 9 coats for complete coverage. First 4 - 5 could still see orginal color and it looked like crap, and I started getting worried. Rofl... But in my sig you see it turned out alright. All I have left is buff and wax. But that will come later, working on making it actually drive straite now.
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Report this Post02-13-2007 07:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HAGSSend a Private Message to HAGSDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TorqueWench:
i don't post as often as i otherwise could, because i'm also working on my other project, my WS6-esque taillight mod:


Wow! those are awesome!, when you gonna start selling notchback lights like that for my Formula?
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Report this Post02-14-2007 01:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BobadooFunkClick Here to visit BobadooFunk's HomePageSend a Private Message to BobadooFunkDirect Link to This Post
so, can someone post an updated exactly-what-u-need list?
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Report this Post02-14-2007 10:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ParaStaticSend a Private Message to ParaStaticDirect Link to This Post
Yeah this is what you will need.

1.Your color of Rustoleum Paint. For the Fiero I used 3 Quarts.

2.Orderless Mineral Spirits

3.High Density Foam Rollers (Come in a contractor pack of 5)

4.Cheapo paint roller trays. (the paint hardens on top but remains a goo on the bottom and I did not want to go through the hassle of cleaning them)

5.A warmer environment. dose not have to be extremely warm, I painted mine this winter in my garage and only had it heated to 65. I hear of people painting in extreme cold, but the drying times were longer.

6.A container of Cool Whip or other like container to mix the paint in. I found it alot easyer then trying to work out of the can.

7.Paint mixing sticks.

8.1000 - 2000 grit sanding paper for the orange peel.

9.Water bottle for the wet sanding.

This is pretty much all that I needed. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
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TorqueWench
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Report this Post02-14-2007 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TorqueWenchSend a Private Message to TorqueWenchDirect Link to This Post
do you have some pictures we can see, Para? i wanna see!!!!!
black and orange? is the wing black or orange?
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Report this Post02-14-2007 11:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ParaStaticSend a Private Message to ParaStaticDirect Link to This Post
Yeah let me put some pictures on my web server, and I will post them.
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Report this Post02-14-2007 11:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ParaStaticSend a Private Message to ParaStaticDirect Link to This Post

ParaStatic

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This images is larger than 102400 bytes. Click to view.
This images is larger than 102400 bytes. Click to view.




Sorry for the image quality, only used my cell phone so far.

p.s. These were taken before the final wet sand and polishing was done. The spoiler is black, but I do not seem to have a picture of it mounted on the car.

-Para

[This message has been edited by ParaStatic (edited 02-14-2007).]

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Report this Post02-14-2007 12:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ParaStaticSend a Private Message to ParaStaticDirect Link to This Post

ParaStatic

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Oh hey I found some!
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And with the finshed vents.

You can just see a hint of it in the second one.
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ParaStatic
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Report this Post02-14-2007 12:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ParaStaticSend a Private Message to ParaStaticDirect Link to This Post

ParaStatic

181 posts
Member since Feb 2007
I would like to add, that the crappy camera + poor indoor lighting under floresent lighting make them seem really crappy.

Here is a before and after on the driver side fender. With a good buff. It is uber smooth. I have alot more on my camera, one of these days if it is not to cold will roll it out for some more with the real camera.


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BobadooFunk
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Report this Post02-14-2007 04:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BobadooFunkClick Here to visit BobadooFunk's HomePageSend a Private Message to BobadooFunkDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ParaStatic:

Yeah this is what you will need.

1.Your color of Rustoleum Paint. For the Fiero I used 3 Quarts.

2.Orderless Mineral Spirits

3.High Density Foam Rollers (Come in a contractor pack of 5)

4.Cheapo paint roller trays. (the paint hardens on top but remains a goo on the bottom and I did not want to go through the hassle of cleaning them)

5.A warmer environment. dose not have to be extremely warm, I painted mine this winter in my garage and only had it heated to 65. I hear of people painting in extreme cold, but the drying times were longer.

6.A container of Cool Whip or other like container to mix the paint in. I found it alot easyer then trying to work out of the can.

7.Paint mixing sticks.

8.1000 - 2000 grit sanding paper for the orange peel.

9.Water bottle for the wet sanding.

This is pretty much all that I needed. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.


cost?

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TorqueWench
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Report this Post02-14-2007 05:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TorqueWenchSend a Private Message to TorqueWenchDirect Link to This Post
theoretically, $50.00
i spent quite a bit more than that, though, for a quart of Interlux Brightside in Black Gloss, their Brushing Liquid,
lots and lots of sand paper,
a few Pyrex measuring cups, small and medium, to use instead of a roller pan.
and kitchen spatulas and a couple of small plastic ladles, to get paint out of the can without pouring directly out of the can.
but the basics should run you 50clams or less, and you can get started.
and in my case,
other than the paint and sand paper,
the other implements are reusable, so i thought it a good deal, even above the 50bux spent.

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