since the weather is gettin colder and colder each day, I've been slowly taking parts off and bringing them in the house.... I have the hood off and it has a few coats on it now. Its looking cherry!!!!
I found a very good clear coat to use on this paint!!!!
<minwax> fast-drying Polyurethance Superior Durability Clear Gloss!!!! If you mix it 50/50 with mineral spirits.... WOW it looooks sharp!!! I'll post pics soon!!
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01:09 PM
davikan Member
Posts: 680 From: Las Vegas, NV USA Registered: Jul 2005
Originally posted by BLK 86 FSTBAK GT: already there... way back on pg. 16. A pic of her and a pic of both of us.
Um, Nope. Not good enough. Need NEW submissions. The "Girls With Fieros" thread needs constant attention. (Is there anyone here that would disagree?!?!?) :-)
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[This message has been edited by davikan (edited 11-13-2006).]
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01:19 PM
squisher86SE Member
Posts: 1350 From: Franklin, IN, USA Registered: May 2005
OK i've got my hood done and my rear decklid and spoiler. [note] i have not yet wetsanded and buffed my clearcoat! so the pic's i post are not the final product! Just a teaser!
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02:39 PM
BLK 86 FSTBAK GT Member
Posts: 225 From: Mill Hall, Pa Registered: Dec 2005
some one want to link me to the $50 roller paint thread. after my body mods, im going to have a two tone fiero, and i dont want to drop the $ on a professional paint job just yet (i see choptop in my future). that looks ****ing awesome for roll on.
mad props
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07:37 PM
02SOMFormula Member
Posts: 120 From: Carmichael, CA USA Registered: Apr 2006
I like that fact that you are clear coating everything! How durable, or easy to repair will it be with a clear coat on it? I was thinking that without a clearcoat, it might be easier to fix the paint, like chips and dings. Am I wrong here?
Cool thread, keep it going! I am going to have to start doing this myself. I bought the parts, just not the color yet! I havn't decided on what color to do my car in!
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07:48 PM
02SOMFormula Member
Posts: 120 From: Carmichael, CA USA Registered: Apr 2006
some one want to link me to the $50 roller paint thread. after my body mods, im going to have a two tone fiero, and i dont want to drop the $ on a professional paint job just yet (i see choptop in my future). that looks ****ing awesome for roll on.
02SOMFormula, I'd imagine that all you'd have to do is section tape the area around the damage, then sand off the clear, fix, and reapply. I don't know much about paint though.
Either way, those results for less than $50, I'll give this a try...
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07:59 PM
02SOMFormula Member
Posts: 120 From: Carmichael, CA USA Registered: Apr 2006
02SOMFormula, I'd imagine that all you'd have to do is section tape the area around the damage, then sand off the clear, fix, and reapply. I don't know much about paint though.
Either way, those results for less than $50, I'll give this a try...
Thanks for the link! I actually posted that link onto another website I post on, LOL! That's some good info right der! Thanks! I just wanted all the info I can get before I give it a shot! You can never have too much information!
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09:39 PM
OldBob Member
Posts: 393 From: Ludington, Michigan, USA Registered: Oct 2004
What process did you do before clearcoating? Did you wetsand, then paint? Or did you wetsand, polish to a bright finish, then start clearcoating?
I wet/scuffed the surface of the existing paint w/800 grit sandpaper. I applied 2 coats of paint, wetsanded w/800 grit. applied 2 more coats wetsanded with 800 grit, applied 2 more coats and sanded with 1000 grit sandpaper. I then applied the polyurathane clear gloss. and thats all i've done so far.
I am goning to do the entire car this way unil next spring/summer. Then I will sand the clear coat with 2000 grit on the entire car. use a good compound to get the scratches out, then buff and polish. SHOULD look cherry then!!!
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10:24 PM
PFF
System Bot
BLK 86 FSTBAK GT Member
Posts: 225 From: Mill Hall, Pa Registered: Dec 2005
Okay, cool! I was worried that I had to buff out the paint to a glossy shine before adding the clear coat! But I guess you don't, your just trying to make the clear coat shiney!
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10:32 PM
02SOMFormula Member
Posts: 120 From: Carmichael, CA USA Registered: Apr 2006
Interesting thread. If it comes in clear (I dont think it does) then you could add matalic to either the black or to clear and then last coat it with only clear with any matalics. I had my GT painted by a shop in black matalic. Looks like a black car and then when the light hits it right you notice the metalics. You method has me thinking about using it on our 87GT which is about out intake, headers and silver with black GT40 strips. The spray can stuff just dont hold up all that good in an engine. I wonder if the roll-on Rusto will fair any better in that hot and not paint friendly engine bay?
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11:55 PM
F-I-E-R-O Member
Posts: 8410 From: Endwell, NY Registered: Jan 2005
OOOOOOOPs after reading more on the mopar site it sounds like the guys there are not very happy with their results after all.
Link?
Going through their site, there's no choice for "auto," but there is one for fiberglass. Cool, now I don;t have to replace my bathtub, just repaint it!
Going through their site, there's no choice for "auto," but there is one for fiberglass. Cool, now I don;t have to replace my bathtub, just repaint it!
I like the idea of rolling it to avoid the overspray on the car and in my garage. Others have indicated that there is a lot of paint lost in spraying as well. My paint sat in the Tennessee sun in the same spot for over 7 years and had faded down to the primer and cracked badly, so anything will be an improvement. For the price, I decided I'd give this a try before MACCO. I picked up supplies at WalMart recently: 5x pack of 8.5 x 11 400 grit 5x pack of 8.5 x 11 800 grit 30 fl oz odorless mineral spirits 8 fl oz Sunrise Red Gloss Rust-OLEUM 2x pack of (yellow) foam rollers I started with my tail, which I don't plan to re-install. It has some fire damage on the paint and seemed like a good test bed. I cleaned the tail with soap and water. I sanded the rougher areas with 400 grit and the remainder with the 800 grit. I wipred it down with water and dried it and wiped it down again with mineral spirits and again dried it. I used a 50 / 50 mineral spirit to paint ratio. The yellow foam roller left hundred of tiny bubbles as I applied it. At first I was concerned that the mixture was too thin. I had to keep going back to the edges, as the paint would flow down and drip from the tails edges. I must have used the roller 10 times to remove the excess from the edges. After a night of sitting, the surface has a nice shine to it and most all of the bubbles went away. This thin first coat is opaque, but did cover the burnt paint area nicely. I'll have to sand the runs from the edges, but it looks like it should work. Pictures soon.
[This message has been edited by ApexNC (edited 11-28-2006).]
From page 1 of the mopar site's thread: "get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam"
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04:03 PM
cjgable Member
Posts: 1198 From: Fort Worth, Tx, USA Registered: Dec 2001
I was reading the forum from the link that jeffndebrus posted. It looks to me people that prepped right or had a bit of experience had better luck painting. I didn't read it as people were unhappy, rather didn't do something right/expected TOO much from a roller. I wouldn't expect a perfect paint job my first time from a spray gun either.
I picked up the foam rollers from Walmart, that fit the 4", rounded on one end and straight cut on the other description, but I think I'll try Home Depot for the white "HD" material. I suspect that's whats tracking bubbles in my job. 95% of these tiny bubbles self level anyway, I'd like to see it without these to begin with. I think I'll also switch to a 2:1 paint to MS mix to prevent the run off drips.
This has been a very interesting thread. I'm going to apply this to my daily driver as with winter coming it's still in it's primer stage and could use a quick fix. I went and purchased both gloss white and black and want to try each one just to see how it goes.
Home Depot in Raleigh had "Ultra Fine" white foam rollers (4" and 6") Lowes in Raleigh had Ultra High Density Foam rollers (4" and 6") I bought a pack of each to see if there is a difference. Other than color, they "appear" to be the same as the yellow, less expensive foam rollers from Walmart. I'll post my results. Home Depot here didn't have Rust-Oleum that I could find. Lowes had the "Professional" version only. From what I read on the MOPAR site the STOP RUST version from WalMart is the same as the Tremclad
