I'd heard 600 lbs for the steel frames and a 300# savings for the aluminum frames

quote Originally posted by Will: I'd heard 600 lbs for the steel frames and a 300# savings for the aluminum frames

Will, where do you get those figures from? It would be interesting to take a fully stripped frame and weigh it, just to see ..Regardless, 300lbs weight savings would be great

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 03-09-2005).]

Guss: A little off subject but did you make your hood and does the spare tire fit? Your frame looks excellent

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85 GT 3.4
Auto 3.08
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60"

I made the hood. The spare won't fit in the stock location. It could fit if it was angled the other way.

I've read things here and there... I really couldn't give a concrete source for those weights...

Very nice build!!! What are you using to bend your tubes? If it was posted earlier in the thread, I apologize.

+ for you!!

Thanks,
Kris

The bender isn't anything fancy, just a beefed up copy of an All-Star bender. Cost about $300 to build. I can whip up some drawings and a component list if anyone wants to build one. I've had better but this one is portable and stores easily.

quote Originally posted by Will: I'd heard 600 lbs for the steel frames and a 300# savings for the aluminum frames

I think I read the same thing in a book on the history of the Fiero. A PFF member loaned the book to me, so I don't have it to recheck the numbers. I think the Fiero Store sells the book though.

There are a lot of double and triple wall sections that make the space frame strong and heavy. It's amazing how much weight you can build up with plain old sheet metal.

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Todd Perkins - the member formerly known as "perkidelic"
todd's hot rods

quote Originally posted by toddshotrods: I think I read the same thing in a book on the history of the Fiero. A PFF member loaned the book to me, so I don't have it to recheck the numbers. I think the Fiero Store sells the book though. There are a lot of double and triple wall sections that make the space frame strong and heavy. It's amazing how much weight you can build up with plain old sheet metal.

Yeah the stock frame is quite deceptive in appearance..it doesnt look as heavy as it is ..Gusshotrod, do you have any idea what your frame weighs?

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: About the welding: It depends on what material you want to use. I used Mig on everything. Some of the radius rods need pre-heat and slow cool because of the Moly ends. If TIG was used you could bypass this step. You could substitute moly tube for most of the car if you wanted which would then have to be TIG welded. The sheet metal could be TIG or MIG, whatever you are comfortable with. The front suspension is finished. I didn't like the rear upper a-arms so I am redoing them, then I will get it outside and get some good pics (maybe tomorrow).

Nice work ! Thanks for sharing all the information + for you.

Remounted the pedals and steering components.

Also decided to switch to C5 spindles on the rear also. I am changing the rear clip around to make this happen. At least I didn't have to cut it ALL off. Should have this done tommorow.

How about that... I have the same pedals! (I love them!) Not to critique but, are you going to reinforce the steering shaft mount? One square tube may not be enough.

Tough to see in this picture. Just trying to help make your car better. Even mine is a bit flimsy for my taste.

Yeah it needs a brace or two, just haven't figured out something that looks good. I don't want to run a dash so this area will be visible.

quote The bender isn't anything fancy, just a beefed up copy of an All-Star bender. Cost about $300 to build. I can whip up some drawings and a component list if anyone wants to build one. I've had better but this one is portable and stores easily.

I wouldn't mind seeing them, if you don't mind.

TIA...
Bob

Major problems. I installed the trans in the car to figure out the shift linkage and discovered that the trans won't go into any gear. The shift rod will move forward and backward fine but will not go side to side. It will not go into any gear. I paid $2000 for this thing. A rebuild will run $3500. I am so screwed.

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: Major problems. I installed the trans in the car to figure out the shift linkage and discovered that the trans won't go into any gear. The shift rod will move forward and backward fine but will not go side to side. It will not go into any gear. I paid $2000 for this thing. A rebuild will run $3500. I am so screwed.

first of all why is the trans in upside down stater goes on top

The G50 has to be run inverted as you can't flip the ring gear. From the Ultima forums: This trans was originally designed and used by Porsche to run like this. It was originally used for racing. When it was later used in production cars it was flipped over. The torque rating for the tranny is actually higher when run installed as shown.

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: The G50 has to be run inverted as you can't flip the ring gear. From the Ultima forums: This trans was originally designed and used by Porsche to run like this. It was originally used for racing. When it was later used in production cars it was flipped over. The torque rating for the tranny is actually higher when run installed as shown.

no porsche trans is run upside down the G50 has to be machined to flip the diff they chage 1500 to 2000 to convert them and all the 85 up 911 turbo porsches use the G50 as it is the replacement for the 915 transaxle

Bubba, the Ultimas are designed and use the trans mounted as shown. I got the three detents, tried what you said, got nothing.

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: Bubba, the Ultimas are designed and use the trans mounted as shown. I got the three detents, tried what you said, got nothing.

the recomened trans axle use in the ultima is audi 5000 6 spd I have the articals on the car from kitcar magazine and went to the site and it also states 5000 audi transaxle

to flip the diff in the G50 the case is cut in the flywheel area and a hump weled in to clear the diff when fliped and if you look at the Porsche boxter it uses the G50 6spd and it is not upside down
when you turn the trans upside down you will starve the gears in the trans section for oil as it the fill
level will not be high enought for the gears to sit in the oil and oil will not reach the bearings properly check out runigade hybreads for the info on flipping the diff

this is the proper orentation of the transaxle

Sorry Bubba, but you are wrong. Standard trans for Ultima is inverted G50.

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: Sorry Bubba, but you are wrong. Standard trans for Ultima is inverted G50.

you are arguing with the wrong guy here is a pic of the ultima with the G50 and look close where the ribbs are on the transaxle

it is a reversed diff and in the proper orentation

I'll pull the cover.

did you notice the pic of the ultima with the G50 with the inverted diff

What am I looking for here:

For what it is worth, I run the 930 gear box upside down. I have discussed a sprayer for the ring gear and such, but I am told by Renigade Hybrids (NV) that the box still gets about 90% of the lubrication in this position. Since I am running less than 30 minutes at a time, I have just mounted a temp sensor in the tranny and will keep an eye on it.

Paul

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: What am I looking for here:

from this i can see that the trans is a 5 spd and one of the shafts has a broken fork in the second pic I can see where the shaft is suposed to be and it is not there all I see is the detent ball these trans are easy to work on if you take your time opening the case

[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 03-14-2005).]

www.ultimacars: this is a quote under pricing for standard kit: "complete transaxle kit to suit Porsche G50 including transaxle invert kit".

quote Originally posted by gusshotrod: www.ultimacars: this is a quote under pricing for standard kit: "complete transaxle kit to suit Porsche G50 including transaxle invert kit".

if you want the TRANSAXLE TO LIVE FLIP THE DIFF YOU DONT WANT TO SEE ONE OF THESE DETONATE i HAVE and it is very dangerous these transaxles are not ment to run upside down they share the oil with the diff and gearbox draw a line from the center of the gear box and see where the oil level will be in the diff case and you will see the oil will be in line with the clutchshaft

For racing, the G-50 has experienced some difficulties with ring & pinion failures. Rennsport Systems recommends installing a transmission cooler and pump when power levels reach the 350 HP level and above. Pressurized lubrication to the ring & pinion as well as the gearsets is also worthwhile under these stresses.

[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 03-14-2005).]

Thanks a bunch for the help Bubba.

quote Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: Originally posted by gusshotrod:

Sure looks like that Ultima is running an inverted box to me.

quote Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: if you want the TRANSAXLE TO LIVE FLIP THE DIFF YOU DONT WANT TO SEE ONE OF THESE DETONATE i HAVE and it is very dangerous these transaxles are not ment to run upside down they share the oil with the diff and gearbox draw a line from the center of the gear box and see where the oil level will be in the diff case and you will see the oil will be in line with the clutchshaft For racing, the G-50 has experienced some difficulties with ring & pinion failures. Rennsport Systems recommends installing a transmission cooler and pump when power levels reach the 350 HP level and above. Pressurized lubrication to the ring & pinion as well as the gearsets is also worthwhile under these stresses.

When pressure lubing gear mesh, be sure to use a misting nozzle, as a stream or spray into the gear mesh will froth your oil.

http://www.motormeister.com/suz/trans/clutch_trans.htm
check out this link for transaxle parts

quote Originally posted by R Runner: For what it is worth, I run the 930 gear box upside down. I have discussed a sprayer for the ring gear and such, but I am told by Renigade Hybrids (NV) that the box still gets about 90% of the lubrication in this position. Since I am running less than 30 minutes at a time, I have just mounted a temp sensor in the tranny and will keep an eye on it. Paul

VanDerLey? Niiice... What work did he do for you?
Wcapman's new Northstar was balanced by Vanderley. I'm going to see if I can get a local shop to do the same balance/weight relief on my crank.

you gotta love that ultima! i have the whole centerfold of the pic you posted from "kit car" stuck to the side of my computer cabinet!

correct me if i"m wrong but it looks like the gears are not meshing correctly in the last pic.

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88 coupe 4.9 Izusu 5-speed Rockcrawl chip. True duels.No A/C .KYB GR-2 on all 4 corners Built to run.

There is an idler gear in the cover that meshs with those gears.

quote Originally posted by toddshotrods: I think I read the same thing in a book on the history of the Fiero. A PFF member loaned the book to me, so I don't have it to recheck the numbers. I think the Fiero Store sells the book though. There are a lot of double and triple wall sections that make the space frame strong and heavy. It's amazing how much weight you can build up with plain old sheet metal.

That would be me I will see if I can dig that book up tonight and get the numbers you are talking about in a day or two.