OH my............................looks to be very nice and promising!!! sweet!!!!!
i was thinkin HID but i heard its crap when you stick with out old square housing units....i have new ones from hella with a reg. hella bulb inside. sooooooo instead of paying for the whoel HID conversion, i would mind a nice twin set of hella rounds like that.....is one of them HID? did u order that or make it yerself?
Awww, those are sweet...well, since he doesn't have anymore guess I can't talk you into bringing a set with you to the Frankfurt Main when I'm in town....LOL
They look great.
------------------ 84 Fiero SE, Custom Hybrid (Updated to 88 wiring throughout, t-tops, V6, 5spd, Fastback, IMSA style whale tail, Formula bumpers and Held coil-overs) Navy Blue Metallic Paint custom wheels. 84 Fiero DGP/IMSA Widebody (Resurection has begun - maiden "work-in-progress" showing at Daytona)
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03:01 PM
Chewy_bjj Member
Posts: 256 From: Louisville,KY, USA Registered: Jan 2005
I don't have the slightest idea how to make the frame. Looks like you'd need quite some tools for the job. Something to cut steel with, welder etc...
Installing the lights themselves is a no brainer. Remove the headlight assemblies incl. motor (4 #10 nuts), remove the headlight subassembly (the part that goes up and down), install the new frame in its place, install the Hellas using the included screws...
I still have to figure out how to adapt the plastic parts that keep you from looking inside the front compartment when the lights are open... I'll get to that tomorrow...
quote
Originally posted by ToonTownfiero:
How about some 'Do It Yourself' instructions.....
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05:11 PM
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
The U.S. legal (DOT compliant) versions of the 90 mm Hella modules are currently $58.75 each from Susquehanna Motor Sports, plus $6.70 per connector for the H-9 halogen bulbs, plus shipping. They also have the ECE (European) versions of the 90 mm Hella modules available for about twice that price.
quote
Originally posted by yellowstone:
I bought the frame from the guy who made my front - but it was the last one he had or would make...
If "the guy" is not going to make any more, can you ask him if he would consider publishing plans or drawings? The frames look really well designed, and some people might even be willing to pay him a reasonable amount for a copy.
For more on these headlights, with lots of pictures, see an earlier thread on the same subject.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 01-20-2006).]
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07:42 PM
Fierofreak00 Member
Posts: 4221 From: Martville, NY USA Registered: Jun 2001
If "the guy" is not going to make any more, can you ask him if he would consider publishing plans or drawings? Some people might even be willing to pay for a copy.
I know I would.......
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07:55 PM
Jan 21st, 2006
F-I-E-R-O Member
Posts: 8410 From: Endwell, NY Registered: Jan 2005
Originally posted by Marvin McInnis: If "the guy" is not going to make any more, can you ask him if he would consider publishing plans or drawings? The frames look really well designed, and some people might even be willing to pay him a reasonable amount for a copy.
Plans would be very nice to have. I was thinking about going with a flush mount set but I like this set up much better.
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12:30 AM
yellowstone Member
Posts: 9299 From: Düsseldorf/Germany Registered: Jun 2003
The reason I don't even name "the guy" is that I paid him 700 Euros for the complete setup, frame, lights, cabling, custom made plastic housing back in July 2005. Fortunately, he gave me the frames right away. Since then, nothing but "wait a little more", not answering the phone, not responding to messages. I actually went to a lawyer with thi already. I ended up buying the lamps myself and trying to figure out the rest as I go.
So, even though me makes/sells great stuff, I wouldn't advise anyone to try and have the same experience. At least I'm in the same country...
quote
Originally posted by Marvin McInnis:
If "the guy" is not going to make any more, can you ask him if he would consider publishing plans or drawings? The frames look really well designed, and some people might even be willing to pay him a reasonable amount for a copy.
For more on these headlights, with lots of pictures, see an earlier thread on the same subject.
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02:10 AM
F-I-E-R-O Member
Posts: 8410 From: Endwell, NY Registered: Jan 2005
Sounds like I've got another project to figure out for myself... Feel free to take some more photos of the set up from different angles, that might help us to put one of these ourselves. Ppppppppppppplease?
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02:56 AM
PFF
System Bot
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
you really need to try and make patterns of that housing assembly. there are some of us that are resourceful enough to come up with something that will work if we have enough information. PLEASE TRY AND MAKE SOME PATTERNS!
This is amazing.... now there is at least 3 people with this setup....
------------------ Brandon Edmonds
1996 Taurus SHO (my baby) 1986 Fiero (to be my street rocket) 1977 yamaha xs750-2D (in pieces right now, doesnt appear that it will be done for summer, unfortunately) 1987 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (learners bike)
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01:05 PM
alex de jorge Member
Posts: 501 From: Kissimmee, FL Registered: Nov 2005
Congrats on your install. Your car looks outstanding. Could it be possible for you to take the measurement of the frame? Ex. LxWxH and also the size of the holes for the lights. Thanks
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09:38 PM
Jan 23rd, 2006
yellowstone Member
Posts: 9299 From: Düsseldorf/Germany Registered: Jun 2003
I'd have to say that your fiero looks convincingly like a high end sports car. Everything looks, "right" and somewhat exotic but it still maintains most of the fiero lines. Awesome job.
------------------
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11:25 AM
Jan 26th, 2006
yellowstone Member
Posts: 9299 From: Düsseldorf/Germany Registered: Jun 2003
I have a question for the electronics guys: The way I have wired the new lights now, the low beams go off when I switch to high beams. How can I wire the setup so that the high beams come on IN ADDITION to the low beams?
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09:41 AM
Joe Torma Member
Posts: 3485 From: Hillsborough, NJ USA Registered: Jul 2001
You probably want wire in a relay for that(the easy way to to just add a jumper across the hi/lo switch). I don't know if the current draw would be too much for the one wire into the headlight switch.
I would jumper the 12v-on and low beam wires into the hi/lo switch(make a heavy wire jumper) and cut the hi-beam wire and put them into a relay using the hi beam switch to trigger it.,
I like the lights...nice job.
[This message has been edited by Joe Torma (edited 01-26-2006).]
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10:07 AM
PFF
System Bot
Saber49 Member
Posts: 937 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: May 2004
wow... that is really nice... thats something ive always wanted to do but always but on the back burner behind other projects or maintenance type stuff... very nice. i love it.
Congrats on your install. Your car looks outstanding. Could it be possible for you to take the measurement of the frame? Ex. LxWxH and also the size of the holes for the lights. Thanks
I agree. Aparently Yellowstone doesn't want to share the design though. Just my personal opinion but I think that if Yellowstone were to chop the top on that car then It would be my new favorite wich is currently Curly's silver Choptop. It's not even just because a car needs to be a choptop to be complete I just think the chop look suits those cars. Good job Yellowstone.
[This message has been edited by ToonTownfiero (edited 01-26-2006).]
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10:31 AM
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
I have a question for the electronics guys: The way I have wired the new lights now, the low beams go off when I switch to high beams. How can I wire the setup so that the high beams come on IN ADDITION to the low beams?
Here is a simple and elegant technique that I have used on several different cars: Connect a rectifier diode rated at 15 amps (or higher) and 50 volts (or higher) between the low-beam and high-beam circuits. You can do this near one of the headlights (probably the best location), at the dimmer switch, or at any convenient point in between. The cathode of the diode (the end marked with the band) should connect to the low-beam side of the circuit. In operation, current will flow through the diode from the high-beam side to the low-beam side, but not in the opposite direction. There will be a slight voltage drop (~1 volt) through the diode, so the low beams will dim slightly when the high beams are on, but the effect is not noticable and it actually prolongs the life of the low-beam bulbs.
The diode will produce some heat (~5 watts) when you are using the high-beams, so you should try to keep it as cool as possible. It will fail if its temperature gets above about 125 degrees C. Some diodes are in a case that can be clamped to a convenient body panel as a heat sink, which is ideal. (Just be careful not to short either of the diode's leads to ground.) However, I have had good results just mounting the diode out in free air. If you think about it, in the Fiero there is a lot of cooling air moving around the headlights, especially when you are driving fast enough to need the high beams. The important thing is not to locate the diode somplace where it will be thermally insulated. You also don't want the diode to be in physical/thermal contact with anything that might burn.
About the only thing that will cause the diode to fail is overheating. But if it does fail, one of two things will happen: 1) headlight operation will revert to original (low beams go off when the high beams are on), or 2) all four headlights will remain on continuously, regardless of whether you select high beams or low beams. At any time, simply removing the diode from the circuit will restore normal headlight operation.
Caution: The Fiero (at least the '88 model) uses a self-resetting breaker in the headlight circuit. Illuminating all four headlights at the same time may cause the circuit breaker to trip ... usually at a most inconvenient time ... so you need to have several hours of testing on your conversion before trying a high-speed midnight run on the autobahn! The standard H7 bulbs in the Hella 90 mm ECE modules are rated at 55 watts (each), which is 220 watts total with all four modules illuminated, so you will probably be OK ... but you need to know for sure. If the breaker does trip with all four headlights illuminated ... very dangerous and scary in the extreme (I have been there) ... you will need to design a different circuit.
Incidentally, the factory service manual indicates that the gauge of the Fiero headlight wires is 1 mm (~16 AWG). U.S. aircraft practice (per FAA publication EA-AC 43.13-1A) allows a maximum operating current of 13 amps (continuous load) and 26 amps (peak intermittent load) in bundled 16 AWG wires. Since all four H7 bulbs together will draw about 16 amps, the stock Fiero wiring will be marginal from an engineering standpoint although it will probably still work OK in practice.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 01-26-2006).]
Not true. I have taken detailed pix and took measurements for a forum member who asked first and who wants to reproduce those brackets. I'll give him some time to do so and I'm sure you'll all find out when he starts offering them...
quote
Originally posted by ToonTownfiero:
I agree. Aparently Yellowstone doesn't want to share the design though.
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03:12 PM
yellowstone Member
Posts: 9299 From: Düsseldorf/Germany Registered: Jun 2003
Here is a simple and elegant technique that I have used on several different cars: Connect a rectifier diode rated at 15 amps (or higher) and 50 volts (or higher) between the low-beam and high-beam circuits. You can do this near one of the headlights (probably the best location), at the dimmer switch, or at any convenient point in between. The cathode of the diode (the end marked with the band) should connect to the low-beam side of the circuit. In operation, current will flow through the diode from the high-beam side to the low-beam side, but not in the opposite direction. There will be a slight voltage drop (~1 volt) through the diode, so the low beams will dim slightly when the high beams are on, but the effect is not noticable and it actually prolongs the life of the low-beam bulbs.
The diode will produce some heat (~5 watts) when you are using the high-beams, so you should try to keep it as cool as possible. It will fail if its temperature gets above about 125 degrees C. Some diodes are in a case that can be clamped to a convenient body panel as a heat sink, which is ideal. (Just be careful not to short either of the diode's leads to ground.) However, I have had good results just mounting the diode out in free air. If you think about it, in the Fiero there is a lot of cooling air moving around the headlights, especially when you are driving fast enough to need the high beams. The important thing is not to locate the diode somplace where it will be thermally insulated. You also don't want the diode to be in physical/thermal contact with anything that might burn.
About the only thing that will cause the diode to fail is overheating. But if it does fail, one of two things will happen: 1) headlight operation will revert to original (low beams go off when the high beams are on), or 2) all four headlights will remain on continuously, regardless of whether you select high beams or low beams. At any time, simply removing the diode from the circuit will restore normal headlight operation.
Caution: The Fiero (at least the '88 model) uses a self-resetting breaker in the headlight circuit. Illuminating all four headlights at the same time may cause the circuit breaker to trip ... usually at a most inconvenient time ... so you need to have several hours of testing on your conversion before trying a high-speed midnight run on the autobahn! The standard H7 bulbs in the Hella 90 mm ECE modules are rated at 55 watts (each), which is 220 watts total with all four modules illuminated, so you will probably be OK ... but you need to know for sure. If the breaker does trip with all four headlights illuminated ... very dangerous and scary in the extreme (I have been there) ... you will need to design a different circuit.
Incidentally, the factory service manual indicates that the gauge of the Fiero headlight wires is 1 mm (~16 AWG). U.S. aircraft practice (per FAA publication EA-AC 43.13-1A) allows a maximum operating current of 13 amps (continuous load) and 26 amps (peak intermittent load) in bundled 16 AWG wires. Since all four H7 bulbs together will draw about 16 amps, the stock Fiero wiring will be marginal from an engineering standpoint although it will probably still work OK in practice.
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03:17 PM
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
I've thought a little more about it, and from an electrical standpoint the best place to connect the rectifier diode is right at the Headlight Dimmer Switch. That way the wires to the headlights (circuits 11 and 12 in the diagram) would only have to carry the original 8 amps each. This assumes, of course, that you can safely mount the diode behind the dash and still keep it cool and that the circuit breaker never trips with all four headlights illuminated. The maximum headlight current in the wire between the Light Switch and the Headlight Dimmer Switch (circuit 10 in the diagram) would still be 16 amps, but it would probably be relatively easy to replace that short piece with a heavier gauge wire (i.e. 1.5 mm, 12 AWG).
If you try this, post back and let us know how it works for you.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 01-26-2006).]
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03:57 PM
Byrd Member
Posts: 25 From: Norcross, Ga USA Registered: Sep 2005
