Okay as alot of you know I Bought a set of sprint headers.
Well I just got through installing these headers, and let me say on thing. "I'm glad I am done". I took lots of detailed pictures showing the tough spots and some things I have found to make the job alot easier. Dont let that word fool you though. This is no easey job. I was luck y that my set up only has about 4,000 miles and the all the bolts where new and came off EASY! I am doing this thread to help everyone because I know this is a mod that EVERYONE wants to do, but are intimidated by it. You can look at that engine bay and tell that it can be a real pain in the neck.
With that said, let me Just say this to help alot of people. "If you have a High Mmilage Fiero or one that is greasey and or rusty in the engine compartment, you may want to pass on this mod. If you brake a bolt, especialy a hard to reach bolt, you will have just entered into a HUGE job that you dont want to do.
The out come is great though. They look great and sound cool too. I have to leaks that need to be addressed. The # 3 and Number six bottom cylinder bolts. (Ravin if your reading, you know what I'm talking about, and I know, you told me so. )
Well, Give me some time to rest, eat, grab a beer or 12, resize these pics and I will continue this thread. I hope I help some people out with this, and as always, give me apositive if you like what I have done.
Here is a pic of one of my stock manifolds compared to the the Sprint headers. WAY better looking.
And here is a pic showing the difference in inlet size. Much more functional, esecialy sence my heads are ported and polished!
And Here is a close up showing how restricted the stock manifolds are. I have held stock manifolds in my hands on several ocasions and never looked inside untill now. I was amazed at the shitty craftmanship. Have alook for yourself.
This is Very bad. For those of you that dont know about this stuff. This is worse than it looks
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08:43 PM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003
Taking the stock manifolds off is pretty self explanitary so I didnt take pics. The manifolds are pretty restrictive, ugly, and over all useless, but they are however, esey to remove. The bolts are all accessable and you are able to fit a closed end wrench (13mm) over them or a socket with the ecception of the bottom bolt on the # 2 cylinder. You will need an open end wrench or a S shaped wrench as shown above. When I took them off I didnt have this wrench yet. This exact bolt is what made me buy that little buddy. Any how, othet than that one bolt you should be able to access eveything okay. On the back side, remove the upper bolts from the top, then Jack the car up and remove the lower bolts from the bottom. You will see pics from below soon.
After I removed the stockers I installed the trunk side first. It is the easy one. Goes on fairly quick. You will notice on sertain bolts you can not use a closed end wrech or a socket because of how close the bolts are to the header and the way the pipes are routed.
Here is a pick of the back (Trunk side) installed.
[This message has been edited by Black-Azz-GT (edited 05-14-2004).]
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09:13 PM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003
When you move on to installing the back, get the header and gasket ready by putting a bolt through the header and gasket on the top of the #6 Cylinder. Position the header, (make sure you put the gasket between the block and the oil dip stick, this is important) and get that bolt started. after that get the rest of the bolts started. This is what it looks like at this point.
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09:24 PM
NotAFieroAnyLonger Member
Posts: 4413 From: 75762/Texas/USA Registered: Dec 2003
Okay, getting back to the bottom bolt on the #2 cylender. This is the bolt that is behind the AC compressor. This is what it looks like. You cant really see it like this. I stuck the camera up there to get a good pic.
This is the one that is hard to reach. If you have big hands, I dont really know what to tell you this is tight. The only other thing to get around this is to remove the AC compressor. But in the next reply I will show you how I did this.
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09:30 PM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003
Okay. Here is how you do it. There is about a 3" space between the AC compressor andt the coolant pipe. You can slide your hand up there.
It's not comfortable on any part of your body but you can reach far enouph to get on finger close enouph to help you guide your other hand wile getting that damn bolt started.
Did I tell you this is an uncofortable position? It sucks! Your hands start to cramp and all you can think is, THIS SUCK. BUT, It is better than removing that AC compressor.
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09:39 PM
ca_xtreme Member
Posts: 536 From: vacaville, ca Registered: Aug 2003
yeah my manifolds ended up being in bout 4different pieces between the 2......oh im not mechanically inclined but i had a mechanic friend help me.... ugh it was suuuuuch a pain in the arse!!! i will pay someone to do it next time lol....or have the engine out completely.....when i did mine though i found it easy to actually unbolt the ac compressor from the bracket *bolts hidden behind the wirelooms* that gave enough room to get to that one trouble cynlinder...either way......for this project a 6pack of beer and a garage is what you need ......also prepare to teach the garage some new naughty words...
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My car is for sale if anyone is interested pm me
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10:15 PM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003
I had to replace a cracked manifold *and* a TCC solenoid *and* an alternator. Since the car has 121K on it, I chose to drop the cradle as I just knew that I was going to break manifold bolts. Didn't break a single one. A major contrast to the other car, where I broke 3 out of 12.
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10:48 AM
$Rich$ Member
Posts: 14575 From: Sioux Falls SD Registered: Dec 2002
now you see why it is strongly reccomended that if the stock manifolds are ever off the car it is a almost GIVEN that they NEED to be ported, next weekend ill be replacing mine with another set that dosent have cracks, luckally i just had mine off and i replaced them with GOOD bolts so i dont have to worry about them braking
this is a time that the crapsman ratcheting wrenches realy comes in handy good write up ++
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Rich AIM: ONE FAST 2M8 white-- 86se V6 daily driver Gold--- 86se 355 SBC
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11:03 AM
Fierokid87 Member
Posts: 4954 From: N. Ridgeville, Ohio, USA Registered: Jan 2001
I have 2 sets and found the best way to install the Sprints is with the engine out of the car. If you compare the outlet side of the stock manifolds you will find that they have a larger opening and if you find someone who can weld them with stainless and then port them they perform as well as the Sprints. I made the expensive mistake of going this route until I researched things more.
Although I do like the looks of them I would never buty another set for $549 compared to spending about $75 to have the stock manifolds done.
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11:54 AM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003
Okay. I'm back to pic off where I left off. And boy am I sore from laying on the cement for so long yesterday.
Okay look closely the for that #2 cylinder, the S wrench is worth its weight in gold. With your left hand still behind the AC compressor use your right hand to position the S wrench over the header and down between the #2 and #4 header pipes. You will be able to put the closed end over the bolt with your left finger. This wrench is like it was made for this and it alows you to make good long turns on the bolt. This technique saves about an hour I bet. This is what it looks like.
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08:05 PM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003
After you get that bolt on and tight you are now going down hill. You can still use the S wrench on the bolts that have enouph room for it to fit over and it will help allot. The the bottom bolt on the #6 cylynder is a pain not because you have to use an opened end wrench and turn that bolt little by little while plipping the wrench till it gets tight. Anyway this is how it looks onece it is on. This is also what the happiest part of the job will look like.
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08:33 PM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003
Next you need to attache the Y pipe to the headers. I first attache the trunkside first, the realized that this wasnt a good Idea because the Y pipe wasnt perfectly alighned. I took it back off and attached the firewall side first. This will alow you to use the bolts and nuts to pull it together and it is much easier to do this from the trunk side. Here is a pic of how far it was off.
With a little elbow grease it all pulled together. When I first cranked it it was leaking there so I tightend som more and let it run. It seems as the Pipes got hot it alowed them to settle into place. This morning I tighted them down a little more and there is no leaks now.
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08:39 PM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003
It feels quicker in the upper RPM but kinda seems just a tad bit less torquie of the line. This is okay though because the 3.4 has a lot more torgue and the difference up top is well worth it. The car sounds Tottaly different now. The way it revs quicker makes a sound that is hard to describe. All and all I love it and am glad I did it. Very nice mod.
I will post better After pics as soon as I get my new Plenium and thrttle body from Darrelle on. It will be painted up very nice as well as my spare Valve covers. Look for that write up in a few days.
If anyone has questions on this install, feel free to ask.
This is one more reason why I am glad I running a carb now. I can change a front manifold in less than a 1/2 hr. This is however a very informative, well documented thread nicely done. You get a + from me. Richey
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10:24 PM
May 16th, 2004
OH10fiero Member
Posts: 1541 From: struther OH Registered: Jun 2002
Okay as alot of you know I Bought a set of sprint headers.
With that said, let me Just say this to help alot of people. "If you have a High Mmilage Fiero or one that is greasey and or rusty in the engine compartment, you may want to pass on this mod. If you brake a bolt, especialy a hard to reach bolt, you will have just entered into a HUGE job that you dont want to do.
Been there done that, I had a Tap broken off in the bolt hole, and whoever did that packed it with JB weld. Needless to say I had to take my firewall side head off the car and tak it to a machine shop for a helicoil fix. By the way...................took me less than 2 min to put the exhaust manifolds back on with the head off, and believe me I would never want to do that project again. Never mind I am doing that exact project on my other V6, man does it suck. At least I am not doing the same project twice on the same car, that much I am greatfull for.
Next you need to attach the Y pipe to the headers. I first attache the trunkside first, the realized that this wasnt a good Idea because the Y pipe wasnt perfectly alighned. I took it back off and attached the firewall side first. This will alow you to use the bolts and nuts to pull it together and it is much easier to do this from the trunk side. Here is a pic of how far it was off.
With a little elbow grease it all pulled together. When I first cranked it it was leaking there so I tightend som more and let it run. It seems as the Pipes got hot it alowed them to settle into place. This morning I tighted them down a little more and there is no leaks now.
This is the biggest pet peeve I have with the Sprints. Mine were off by nearly 1/2". There was no way I was going to try "pulling" the Y-pipe that far. I ended up bending the Y-pipe in the appropriate direction with a hammer and a 2x4 (used to cushion the blows from the hammer). Very unglamorous, but it worked without denting the pipe. I still had to pull it a bit, but not nearly as much as before.
------------------ Raydar 88 3.4 coupe...........
Coming soon... 88 Formula, presently under the knife. Read Nealz Nuze!
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11:56 AM
Black-Azz-GT Member
Posts: 2326 From: Florida Keys Registered: Oct 2003