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Minor mod for my new engine hoist by JazzMan
Started on: 01-02-2004 10:27 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: NotAFieroAnyLonger on 01-03-2004 01:41 PM
JazzMan
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Report this Post01-02-2004 10:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
Got my engine hoist at CostCo, $130, and it came with a nice leveler. It even folds up and all. But it was missing one thing, and that's a swivel. So, I made one:

I tell you what, having my own welder sure has opened a world of possibilities. Now if want to build something, I just build it, instead of trying to figure out how to do it without welding.

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Fierofreak00
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Report this Post01-03-2004 12:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Fierofreak00Send a Private Message to Fierofreak00Direct Link to This Post
Very nice! Now I'm gonna have to steal your idea, and use it on my own. I never would have thought of that and I've been fighting my cherry picker for years! And I just happen to have my own welder too, now if I only had my own garage........

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skitime
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Report this Post01-03-2004 10:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for skitimeSend a Private Message to skitimeDirect Link to This Post
Good idea but to be honest that project would of been better and safer if you had a torch instead of a welder. The welds seem a little light and prone to cracking from the stresses it will have. It would of been better, safer and stronger to bend one solid piece into the U shape.

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JazzMan
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Report this Post01-03-2004 12:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
I don't have my shop press operational yet, and in any case don't have any mandrels and dies, do I can't do bending yet. I took the completed assembly to work and showed it to one of our engineers who is a certified weld inspector, and he calculated that my swivel would hold somewhere around thirteen thousand pounds. Since my hoist is only rated for 4k at minimum extension and I'll be using it at the full extension/1k rating, I don't expect a failure.

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Report this Post01-03-2004 12:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post

JazzMan

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quote
Originally posted by Fierofreak00:

Very nice! Now I'm gonna have to steal your idea, and use it on my own. I never would have thought of that and I've been fighting my cherry picker for years! And I just happen to have my own welder too, now if I only had my own garage........


Here's my material list:

2 ea. Sideplates are 3/16" x 2" hot roll x 4" long
1 ea. Bottom plate is 3/8" x 2" x boom width + 1/16"
1 ea. Bolt is a 3/4-10 x 4" fully threaded GR5
1 ea. Nut is a 3/4-10 Nylock
2 ea. 3/4" flatwasher
The bottom washer is tacked to the bottom plate and the top washer is tacked to the nyloc nut, the two washers act as a bearing surface with a small amount of high-pressure grease in between. The nyloc nut allows it to be disassembled at a later date if I choose. I used a jam-nut on the crossbolt since the frame needs to swivel freely. Make sure that you make the sideplates long enough to allow the frame to swivel with full lift on the boom.

The welds are 1/4" fillet, full length top and bottom. Make sure you have good penetration, especially the bottom welds.

You'll note a nut welded to the head of the bolt, that is not neccessary, I had to change my design mid-stream and decided to just leave the nut on.
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Fierofreak00
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Report this Post01-03-2004 12:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fierofreak00Send a Private Message to Fierofreak00Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by skitime:

Good idea but to be honest that project would of been better and safer if you had a torch instead of a welder. The welds seem a little light and prone to cracking from the stresses it will have. It would of been better, safer and stronger to bend one solid piece into the U shape.

GEEZ! You're such nit picker.

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JazzMan
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Report this Post01-03-2004 01:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
Nah, it's just that the welds and metal thicknesses look smaller in the picture than they actually are. The welds being 1/4" fillets with good penetration is what's important. The bottom welds are in shear, which is preferred. The top welds are overkill, but do help the strength.

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NotAFieroAnyLonger
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Report this Post01-03-2004 01:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NotAFieroAnyLongerSend a Private Message to NotAFieroAnyLongerDirect Link to This Post
You have to be one of the brightest and insightful people here on PFF!!
Another great idea and job Jazzer!

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