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How much rust is TOO much rust in the undercarriage? by hcforde
Started on: 05-17-2013 08:21 PM
Replies: 8
Last post by: hcforde on 05-25-2013 09:10 PM
hcforde
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Report this Post05-17-2013 08:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hcfordeSend a Private Message to hcfordeDirect Link to This Post
If a car sits on gravel for 2 years is that enough to compromise the safety integrity of the frame? I am talking about an 1988 that is in a climate where there is little snow and salt is not used. A mechanic not too familiar with Fieros told the owner that the car was unsafe to drive. I did not have the car on a hoist but looked at the undercarriage and saw rust but not so sure the car cannot be salvaged. There was no rust in the trunk area. The body is in great shape, the interior is also. I do have parts that can be "welded in" if necessary. It is a 4Cyl 5speed which would complete my wants.

Looking for guidance here.

[This message has been edited by hcforde (edited 05-17-2013).]

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Boostdreamer
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Report this Post05-17-2013 09:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BoostdreamerSend a Private Message to BoostdreamerDirect Link to This Post
I bought a Formula that didn't look too bad. I got it home, jacked it up by the cradle, put jack stands underneath just in front of the front cradle mounts. The car sank down onto the stands. THAT is too much rust.

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Jonathan

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cmechmann
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Report this Post05-17-2013 09:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cmechmannSend a Private Message to cmechmannDirect Link to This Post
You need to look at the HIDDEN areas. Remove the inner fender covers over the rear wheels. Almost bought a sweet looking 1986. Then removed the covers only to be able to grab a hand full of rust out of the space frame/unibody. The rust does not just happen from water being sprayed up into the fender but water flowing down under the rear fender panels between the trunk cover and fenders. You may not be able to see it from in the trunk. Of course if you can see it without taking the covers off, expect worse when you do.
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Fierology
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Report this Post05-18-2013 01:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FierologySend a Private Message to FierologyDirect Link to This Post
Can you jack it up to have a personal look? If you want to check out my restoration thread below, you can see that what looked to be nearly a rust-free car had some serious vehicular cancer that required about 14' tubing and some fiberglass. It's a great car now and very sturdy, but the rust was hidden.

-Michael

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"A guy know's he's in love when he loses interest in his car for a few days." -Tim Allen

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retroman
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Report this Post05-18-2013 05:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for retromanSend a Private Message to retromanDirect Link to This Post
Guess that depends on who you talk to. Californians will throw out a car if it has a rust spot the size of pencil eraser. Those of us from the snow belt on the other hand will look at a car that's holeyer than swiss cheese and think "Meh, that'll buff out..." Lol
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hcforde
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Report this Post05-18-2013 06:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hcfordeSend a Private Message to hcfordeDirect Link to This Post
FIEROLOGY WROTE:
 
quote
Can you jack it up to have a personal look? If you want to check out my restoration thread below, you can see that what looked to be nearly a rust-free car had some serious vehicular cancer that required about 14' tubing and some fiberglass. It's a great car now and very sturdy, but the rust was hidden.


I was in that area last week and went and looked at it but I did not have a jack. The trunk was solid. The rust I saw looked to be mostly surface underneath the car. There was no glaring rusted out areas on the bottom of the car. It is one of those cars that you want because the body is perfect. I can easily work on mechanical issues, bodywork also but it is so time consuming. Structural issues I will have to learn and it would be a very slow process. I live in a neighborhood where someone called code compliance officers on me because I had too many cars. They are all currently registered so that saved me any issues. Since this one is not able to run it might cause a problem. I do not have the luxury of the space that you have Fierology to work on. However, I am trying to remedy that by building a storage shed in my back yard. That is limited by 200 square feet or I will have to get a permit. But at least I can clear out my garage more and have working room. Transportation of the car will cost me as much as the car itself. The car is 700 miles away and would have to be "trailered" home because the clutch is sticking when depressed.

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MulletproofMonk
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Report this Post05-18-2013 07:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by hcforde:
How much rust is TOO much rust in the undercarriage?


I think that depends on how much time, space, money and how good your welding skills are. You could it theory fix any of the metal issues. I think this is going to be a bigger issue for you.

 
quote
Originally posted by hcforde:
I live in a neighborhood where someone called code compliance officers on me because I had too many cars.
The car is 700 miles away and would have to be "trailered" home because the clutch is sticking when depressed.


I have never had a project go as planned. I started a motor swap on my purple 87 GT... that was almost 6 years ago. I have gone from 3800sc to 4.9L to 3800sc to 3800n/a and purchased 20+ Fiero's in between... Again, not to plan. LOL.

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Fierology
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Report this Post05-22-2013 08:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FierologySend a Private Message to FierologyDirect Link to This Post
Mine also showed no appreciable rust until panels were removed. If I knew where to look I could have found it before removing panels, but the majority of my frame looked near to perfect. Look in these two places: rocker panels and upper frame rails (supporting beams that go outboard of the strut towers). Also, I wouldn't worry about non-structural sheet metal holes. That's easily fixable with new metal or fiberglass. (If very well-prepped, fiberglass will stick just fine for those non-structural areas.)

All the best,
-Michael
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hcforde
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Report this Post05-25-2013 09:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hcfordeSend a Private Message to hcfordeDirect Link to This Post
Time, Space, Money,

I am building a storage shed in my back yard to house the items that are in my garage so I CAN have more space to work and to store the parts of the Fiero's I am tearing down. I am selling the idea to the spouse as a property improvement. I have city limitations of 200 sq/ft and 15 ft high so it will be 16ft * 12ft with a loft area of 160 Sq/ft so I think 320 sq/ft of storage should do the trick. Hope to get this done in 2 weeks time. It will cost me a lot less than I figured. I just picked up some lumber "cull" packs from Lowes and they gave me 90% off. Everything from 3/4" plywood for flooring, to 7/16" OSB for walls, 2*4*8's, up to 2*12*16's, 1*4*8's etc, etc more than enough to do the whole structure for less than $175.00. (Perfect 4*8 sheets of 3/4" exterior plyboard is $38.00/sheet here-these had minor warping on 1 side which I can put bad side down) I know that is not the $$$ object you had in mind Mulletproofmonk, but it is ultimately a part of the equation.

My oldest daughter graduates from college this year and my twins will graduate next year. So money being spent for college will soon come to an end. I am a foreign currency trader that works from home so time is my own choice pretty much. Met a guy that was giving me some free Fiero parts and in HIS garage he had a drive on car lift. I don't think I will take things that far, but it was neat to see. His garage must have been at least 500 sq/ft.

The welding part; I am looking at welders and well as metal shapers. I need something like this because my vocation requires me to sit for far too long.
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