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Battery cables for front battery relocation by gtoformula
Started on: 04-29-2013 02:19 PM
Replies: 6
Last post by: DandRauto on 05-03-2013 09:58 PM
gtoformula
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Report this Post04-29-2013 02:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaDirect Link to This Post
Another forum member (Reallybig) posted a few images back in May of 2012 of the battery cables that he had recently scored from his local Pick N Pull bone yard. Pick n Pull only charges $2.99/cable so it only cost me $6.94 for a pair including tax. I am in the process of gathering the parts needed to relocate the battery to the front of my 1986 Fiero GT. I will be ordering a battery box, but haven't decided yet which vendor to use ... any suggestion would be appreciated. A major component of this relocate is the battery cables. They can be made, but I didn't want to go through the hassle of purchasing and assembling them. All Oldsmobile Auroras, and the last series of Buick Rivieras, had batteries that were mounted under the rear seat. The positve battery cable is routed from the battery to the right rocker panel area, up to the firewall and then along the passenger side of the engine compartment to the electrical distribution center. I figure that if these cables were good enough for GM engineering then they should work in my Fiero. The problem is locating an Aurora or Riviera in the bone yard that has uncut cables. Instead of just unbolting the cable at the battery many of the yards also cut the cable at the distribution center. Doesn't make any sense as disconnecting it at the battery does the same thing, but oh well. At one yard all the cables had been cut. I went to another yard in the same city and found a couple that had not been cut. It is easy to remove the cable from the battery to the firewall and from the distribution center, but the rest is more work. Need to remove the coolant overflow jug ... I used a pry bar. Where it is more difficult is cutting the locking posiitioning clamp in the engine bay by the firewall and getting access to the firewall grommet. There are two Auroras ... a first generation and a second generation (starting in 2000 or 2001). It is easier to remove the cable from the first gen car. There are two modules under the glove box area (you need to remove the glovebox components), but they are only held in with either plastic clips or a few bolts. The cable can then be pulled through after removing these modules. The second gen car is set up differently under the glove box. You need to remove the blower motor and it is not easy to remove ... even with the repair manual. I used my trusty pry bar and a hammer. After smashing and removing the motor you can pull the cable through the fire wall. The first gen car also has a nice lead from the terminal that goes to the distribition center on the Aurora. I may use that end of the cable to attach to the starter and the extension lead to go to C500 ... I'll decide that after I jack up the car and start taking measurements. I also grabbed the rubber covers from the battery end of the negative battery cables. I will remove the red cover and replace it with the black cover for the cable that I use to attach to the negative battery terminal. For ease of removal and to also score the extra power lead, I recommend grabbing battery cables from the first gen car. There were more first gen cars sold than second gen cars so they should also be easier to locate.

Here are the two cables that I pulled. Note that they extend from about the leading edge of the front tires to the trailing edge of the rear tires.. Should be long enough. You can see my car in the background. It looks like a patch work quilt right now due to various body color panels. It had been hit in the LF (yellow fender), the driver's door is from a Formula so I have marked the aero panel bracket holes. The passenger door is also red. The previous skin had been glued on and broke while I was removing it replace a window motor. Maybe I can find a silver hood, black deck lid and white roof. Might as well make it look totally hideous prior to it being painted all one color.


This image shows the battery end of the cables. Note that the older series Aurora has a slightly longer positive extension.


This last image shows the end of the cable where it was bolted to the underhood distribution center. Note that the cable on the left (from the earlier model Aurora) has a positive lead extension.
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FFIEROFRED
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Report this Post04-29-2013 08:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FFIEROFREDSend a Private Message to FFIEROFREDDirect Link to This Post
buy a non-metalic battery box.
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gtoformula
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Report this Post04-29-2013 10:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaDirect Link to This Post
Both Archie and Norm's sell similar battery boxes. I don't know what the differences are between their products. Can anyone provide additional info?
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Jfrost
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Report this Post04-30-2013 11:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JfrostSend a Private Message to JfrostDirect Link to This Post
Did the exact same thing on my 86 GT and they work great so far.
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jaybug56
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Report this Post04-30-2013 09:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaybug56Send a Private Message to jaybug56Direct Link to This Post
I used a battery box from Archie because he is local and I run across town to pick it up. Cables from the junk yard are great. I've used the on 2 cars. My local pick and pull told me that they can not sell anything made of lead. Older cars have lead battery cable ends, so it's on the list to remove them before the car hits the yard. Same list that says to drain all fluids and cat filter.
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Reallybig
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Report this Post05-01-2013 03:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ReallybigSend a Private Message to ReallybigDirect Link to This Post
I just colored the red terminal black for the negative side instead of replacing it...but I'm sure you already knew that. Sharpie markers tend to stain plastic really well. The nice part about doing it that way is that you can keep the lead hanging out of the battery cable terminal and use it as a ground to the chassis up front with out having to mod or buy anything. I cut the extra lead off of the battery cable terninal for the positive side but later regretted it. I was planning on using that junction box under the hood of the riviera and anchoring it there so I could use it as a point of power for later projects but took the easy way out and chopped it. I would have made a great place to pull 12v for a high amp sound system or better yet the ballasts for HID headlights. I understand that the existing fiero headlight wiring is insufficient. I made my battery box out of sheet steal with the same rise and run and 45* angle. It sits on the steering rack of my 88 but is a couple of inches from the front sway bar. (different for pre-88's) If I built another one, I'd make it extend to with in 1/4" of the sway bar as to sink the battery as far forward as possible. The reason is that I can't fit the spare tire over the battery as I had planned and I think this would give me the little bit of room I need with stock battery. Of course there is always the option of using a smaller battery from lets say a honda...I just couldn't bring myself to do it. If my cables were routed through the front of the battery box as some have done, I don't think I wouldn't have this spare tire problem. Good luck!

I have had no problems with my setup as of yet and the engine starts with authority. Good deal for under $7.
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DandRauto
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Report this Post05-03-2013 09:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DandRautoSend a Private Message to DandRautoDirect Link to This Post
Anybody with a set of these, i would be interested in buying them. Willing to reward you for the effort of getting these at the yard.
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