I have an 88 GT need to change brake pads (front / rear) which one do you recommend ? Btw I replaced all the rubber brake lines with braided SS ones and also installed PFF member sardonyx247 Bigger Brake Booster.
Thank you John
[This message has been edited by j bf1 (edited 12-18-2012).]
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01:30 AM
PFF
System Bot
Reallybig Member
Posts: 974 From: Calgary Alberta Canada Registered: Mar 2011
I for one am not really picky about brake pads. I figure that they are all designed to stop the car and unless I am in need of specific demands such as auto cross or other racing, pads are pads. I had a lot of trouble finding new pads for my 88 locally and was just happy to find the ones I did. So far, they work great. More importantly, what is the condition of your sliders and boots? Cruise through my engine swap thread, ( https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/122389.html ) I provide a lot of pics on my basic brake job and the problems I found. I think that going over the sliders and cleaning everything up so it functions properly made the biggest difference over the braking performance I used to have....but that's just me.
^^^ Yeah I'm in this same boat. For most cars that are driven like normal cars, you really don't need anything special. Make sure the rotors are in good shape and even. If not then have them properly turned or upgrade to new rotors if required. Then from there it's largely your personal choice on pads.
One thing that material construction will affect to a big degree with Fieros is the carbon build-up on the wheels. A lot of the cheaper pads are made out of material that does not hold up well, so through usage it will build up on the wheels. Most all cars equipped with disk brakes are going to see this to some degree, regardless of pad construction though, but it will be negated slightly with better quality pads. As mentioned above, unless you auto-x it on weekends or do something similar, then any build brake pad will do the job of stopping the car adequately as long as all the other braking components are in order.
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07:09 AM
mcguiver3 Member
Posts: 773 From: Beacon Falls, CT, USA Registered: Jan 2012
The issue is what is the intended use? Normal street driving, autocrossing, track days? I found a great alternative for the 88's because there is not much out there for performance pads. The Wilwood Dynalite caliper uses a HP100 pad and it's easy to modify for 88 Fieros. If you grind a bit off the width of the backing plate and enlarge the 2 holes they fit. It also gives you a choice of compounds to run. I have modified the calipers to eliminate the plate modifications on future pad swaps. I run Hawk HP plus pads for AX & Track days and they are perfect. Good initial bite and no fade with elevated heat. They are kind on the rotors too. I get them from Pegasus Racing.
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08:44 AM
j bf1 Member
Posts: 310 From: Plantaton,FL Registered: Dec 2011
Thanks guys for the input. Since I really won't be tracking, just spirited driving. I think I'm going with RAYBESTOS Part # PGD378M or WAGNER Part # MX378 either way I probably can't go wrong.
Wagner's thermoquiet pads are good... I use them on my cars
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
X2. The Wagner Thermoquiet part number for the '88 Fiero is MX378, both front and rear. They come with a "lifetime" warranty, including wear, and you can often find them on sale with a $10 or $15 per axle rebate.
[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 12-18-2012).]
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11:53 AM
j bf1 Member
Posts: 310 From: Plantaton,FL Registered: Dec 2011
I'm not sure why but in general I have problems with poor braking. When my 86 SE was new, I could stand it on its ose. Only worked well with factory pads though. This happens on an 86 2.5, and 86 2.8 I had and two 88 gt's I now have. It seems that some pads grab better than others. I went thru a lot of brands and ended up with some expensive Porterfield racing pads. I do not have a fade problem but a vacuum problem. With poor vac they do not stop the car well. Takes a part of a second after an acceleration to regain vac or something. Start out from a stop and need a panic brake, forget it. Not sure what is going on. I have well lubed slides as well as good rotors. Master cyl changes do not seem to make a difference either. I have replaced brake calipers also. If I put the idle up to 1500+ rpm, forget the brakes. Just not there. Yet if I shut the car down, the brakes will work for at least one or two applications so the vacuum assist is not leaking. Any thoughts? Can some equalizer or something be not allowing good braking on the rear?
many Race pads are crap in street use. They need more heat just to work.
some models use a vacuum filter in engine bay on booster line. Bad filter means big performance problems. Booster itself could be bad... Control valve w/ issues, one diaphragm is leaking, etc.
Rear piston(s) (all Fiero years) can have problem... Other lines, Seville etc, use same design w/ same problems.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
