Ok so im not able to get my 3800SC done soon so im taking the chance to go ahead and get and F23 onto it and in the car as well, since i can get an F23 for around $130 here. So my question is what do i measure to see if i need to get a spacer so that i dont over extend the HTOB? I plan on getting a spec stage 3 clutch for the fiero 5spd unless someone has a better suggestion?
Can you show self control to keep from trying to push the pedal Into the front compartment? If so, you might not need one. I never ran one, years later and probably more miles than anyone else so far, never overextended a bearing. Spec 3 with high clamp pp and .840 flywheel.
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08:33 PM
spartan_chaz Member
Posts: 450 From: Lawrenceville, GA, US Registered: Nov 2011
Can you show self control to keep from trying to push the pedal Into the front compartment? If so, you might not need one. I never ran one, years later and probably more miles than anyone else so far, never overextended a bearing. Spec 3 with high clamp pp and .840 flywheel.
Im sure i could. Honestly the first week or two after i get it in ill probably have some fun with it. But, im usually not a crazy or aggressive driver and this will be my DD. I have considered staying with my stock 86GT 4spd but dont know how well it will hold up. I guess i could just use a block of wood as a peddle stop. Maby make it just big enough so that i can get full disengagement from the clutch but enough so i cant get the peddle all the way to the floor. Think id be ok with that?
ok think i may go that rout. Also i plan down the road to put on an intercooler, drop pully size to match, and maby a couple more mods. Is the spec 3 ok to hold all that? And you say you have a high clamp PP whats the difference between that and the PP thats comes with the spec 3 clutch kit?
so does anyone have a confirmed clutch that will work and not hit the bellhousing? I was reading up on it and i think i was seeing the sec 3+ was good? And i also heard stuff about the cavilier clucth possibly working? Can anyone shed some light on it? Also where is the best place to get the HTOB adapter for the lines?
Do your self a favour and instal the HTOB spacer they are only $40 from SPEC and that way you are guaranteed it will work. Consider what happens if you do put the clutch to the floor or some one else drives your car and does it is then a lot of work to replace the HTOB and they are not cheap cost wise. Dan
so does anyone have a confirmed clutch that will work and not hit the bellhousing? I was reading up on it and i think i was seeing the sec 3+ was good? And i also heard stuff about the cavilier clucth possibly working? Can anyone shed some light on it? Also where is the best place to get the HTOB adapter for the lines?
Call who ever you buy the clutch from and tell them you want the pressure plate that is bell shape from a side view without the wings at the top by the fingers. Call Roger for the HTOB hydraulic adapter. http://www.noidearecords.com/thelinsells/kits.html
Do your self a favour and instal the HTOB spacer they are only $40 from SPEC and that way you are guaranteed it will work. Consider what happens if you do put the clutch to the floor or some one else drives your car and does it is then a lot of work to replace the HTOB and they are not cheap cost wise. Dan
Ok well then how do i measure to see how big of one i need? And my FW is .820 is there a clutch that you all would be able to say "yes it will be fine and not hit the case of trans"? The engine will be going into my DD so i need to keep downtime to a minimum...