This is the last thing I need to do so I can drive my 3800 swap. I have no idea what the problem is. I have a new RD master n slave on. Bench bled the master. Have the piston compressed on the slave. Have a speed bleeder on the save as well. Am I forgetting something? This is an 87 Getrag. I want to drive my GT when I go look at an 88 CJB formula in a few hours.

EDIT: also, the banjo is adjust to ass far up as the pedal will allow. It looks about an inch... :

[This message has been edited by XgovernmentAgent (edited 09-02-2012).]

I've never bled one with the piston compressed. Do you see any visible leaks?

None that I've seen. When I hold the pedal down and lean out of the car to look at the bottle n hose I can see that it is conning out in a trickle then a drip for each pedal press cycle. It's not shooting a stream out like it should. But as I said, it's not building any pressure.

It sounds like there's an obstruction in the clutch line somewhere (maybe a kink?), or you would get a steady flow of fluid as you were expecting.

I don't see any kinks anywhere. I guess I'll go ahead and replace the line. That's the only thing out of the hydrolic system I haven't replaced. But I think I should wait for more input before I take that leap.

If you're not in a big hurry best to wait, there's lots of real smart folks on here that might chime in with some words of wisdom!

Kind of am/kind of not. I have a rental car because other car is totaled and I really don't like paying 20 bux a day for their insurance. I would much prefer to get the Fiero on the road and give the rental back.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I also have the RD clutch line repair kit for the slave. It's not linked up or leaking from that spot.

[This message has been edited by XgovernmentAgent (edited 09-02-2012).]

I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. Turns out the bleed screw on the slave points upward and had been getting water and junk in it over the years to the point that the hole for bleeding was clogged. I removed the slave bleed screw, cleaned out the obstruction, and was able to bleed the clutch.

Tom

p.s. I also put a cap on the bleed screw to prevent future problems.

Seeing that it's a new slave that's not likely the problem, but it is quite possible there could have been some contaminate in the line that pushed all the way back and plugged the bleed screw. Worth spending a few minutes to pop it off and see if it's clogged, maybe you have an old one lying around to test?

The piston in the master can not be depressed any amount. If you pull the pin the banjo it should pull off easily and there should be a slight amount of upward play left in the pedal. Any depression of the banjo covers the fill port of the clutch mater and no fluid will go into the line.

------------------
Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

I'm not following you Rodney...

Ok, lets start this all over fro the beginning for bleeding a whole new hydraulic system.

1. Bench bleed the master cylinder, then install and connect line
2. Install slave cylinder, connect line
3. Install SB-BMW-S speed bleeder
4. Pull clutch pedal toward driver until it stops, adjust banjo to pedal level
5. Fill MC with brake fluid
6. Connect hose n bottle to speed bleeder, open speed bleeder 1/4 turn
7. Slowly push pedal in and hold for 30-45 seconds.
8. Slowly release pedal and pull pedal to allow MC to come back to its position.

This is how I did it and am doing it.

quote Originally posted by XgovernmentAgent: 4. Pull clutch pedal toward driver until it stops, adjust banjo to pedal level

You might have gone slightly too far out on the banjo. Reduce the length of the adjustable banjo a few 3-4 mm's and see what happens.

------------------
Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

quote Originally posted by Rodney: You might have gone slightly too far out on the banjo. Reduce the length of the adjustable banjo a few 3-4 mm's and see what happens.

Still nothing :/

Buy or make a vacuum bleeder. Install it on the slave nipple. Coat the threads on the bleeder with some heavy grease or use Teflon tape. I made my own vacuum bleeder. I used some clear tubing and a glass jar. Poke some holes in the lid and feed the hose thru the holes. Make sure the tubing is tight in the holes but is not collapsed. I used my truck sitting next to me with the engine idling and I used a vacuum port off the truck engine. The jar collects the fluid so it does not get into the running engine. Open the bleeder and have someone keep filling the clutch master. Once there are no more bubbles tighten the bleeder. Worked excellent for me.

------------------
Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

I have one I made from a glass pickle jar, clear 1/4" tubing and rtv'd around the hose/lid to make it air tight. I tried that before I got the new MC and speedbleeder and I got nothing. Even tried the forced bleeding with the old MC, had to drill a hole in the cap to fit a basketball air needle in and use a pressure sprayer bottle. It never held pressure and thats why I bought your MC. As far as I can tell, I cant get another MC cap from anywhere to drill into. I have the clutch line repair kit on there as well, i see no leaks coming from that repair point, so i do not see that being an issue.

Is the factory steel line kinked anywhere?

------------------
Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

Not that I can see. The only movement from the line has been when I repaired the line and that didt even get pulled down enough to bend it.


I think I have an idea of how to bleed this better... I am going to remove the block on the slave pushrod so its extended to its normal position, let it gravity bleed THEN follow what is on archies site for bleeding the slave.

EDIT: I pushed the pushrod on the slave with the speed bleeder in/out a few good times and thought I was making good progress until i looked at the front of the car and saw a lot of brake fluid dripping out from the drivers A-arm area. I looked up top and saw no fluid had spilled out of the MC reservoir so only conclusion left is that the line is busted. how? I dont really know. There is no way it could move up front. It can only be a rupture. I might be back to this topic if i cant get the new line to bleed properly. Thank you for your help Rodney, and everyone else.

[This message has been edited by XgovernmentAgent (edited 09-04-2012).]

There is a flexible section in the front also similar to the one near the slave. I think it is hard to see as it is next to the boot that covers the steering shaft. Possibly removing the front plastic tub will allow you to see it.

------------------
Rodney Dickman

Fiero Parts And Acc's Web Page:
All new web page!:www.rodneydickman.com
Rodney Dickman's Fiero accessories
7604 Treeview Drive
Caledonia, WI 53108
Phone/Fax (262) 835-9575

quote Originally posted by XgovernmentAgent: I am going to remove the block on the slave pushrod so its extended to its normal position, let it gravity bleed

Get the front end at least 12" above the rear and gravity bleed it. That has always worked for me without fail.