Guys, I want to further reduce the weight of my 88 autocross car. It's down to 2250# interior gutted including dash all wheel well plastic removed all glass is out (Lexan in windshield and rear) AC and all plumbing gone. all lighting/wires out. Rear bumper beam/egg crate gone dog bone/engine upper bracing out (have AL bracket/rod ends) sunroof removed all front compartment stuff out.
I want to consider removal of portions of the front wheel housing sheet metal, front bumper beam/egg crate. under car center brace at fuel tank
anyone have pics of their front compartments with metal removed? Any other ideas?
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03:49 PM
PFF
System Bot
GreenPlatypus Member
Posts: 336 From: Louisville, KY Registered: Oct 2011
Ditch the doors. If you have a cage with side impact beams, I'd just bolt the door skins to it. Who needs doors, really? Could always hinge them to get in and out of Could also TRY to remove the underside ribbing from the front and rear lids, don't know how strong they will be without it, but might be something to look into. Other than that, maybe a light weight engine and trans combo, but then I think you are at the limits, unless you tube frame or carbon tub. But then you are a trace car levels and not auto cross.
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04:06 PM
Stubby79 Member
Posts: 7064 From: GFY county, FY. Registered: Aug 2008
Perhaps a light weight steering wheel and a seat as well. Just a suggestion. Wheels can help big time too. An Ultima Battery are only ten pounds I believe. Joe.
------------------ 1985 Pontiac Fiero GT 1987 Merkur XR4Ti 1986 Subaru GL-10 4WD Turbo 1994 Ford Taurus SHO ( Sold ) Subaru Justy , Isuzu Impulse , SAAB 900 Turbo or a Pontiac Sunbird Turbo wanted.
Personally, I'd leave the cross car brace under the gas tank in place. Though it doesn't appear to be much, it is a major structural element of the floor's rigidity.
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03:51 PM
mcguiver3 Member
Posts: 774 From: Beacon Falls, CT, USA Registered: Jan 2012
Guys, Thanks for all the info. I should have also mentioned I do have an aluminum race seat, lighter wheels, coil overs at all corners, smaller steering wheel. Also thinking about deleting the steering column and making up a tubing/hub unit instead. Taken off the rocker panels and trimmed the rear bumper cover and rear frame rails a bit. Just looking for that extra 50# somewhere. perhaps a diet would do the trick?
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07:50 PM
E.Furgal Member
Posts: 11708 From: LAND OF CONFUSION Registered: Mar 2012
remove outer skin.. race as a cage smaller fuel tank.. don't think you need 10 gallons to race.. remove battery.. or does it need it to race.. if not.. start and remove.. move rad to rear . less coolant 7lb per gallon,+ tubing.. manual brakes swiss cheese the inner panels of hood/deck/doors
[This message has been edited by E.Furgal (edited 08-12-2012).]
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08:23 PM
PontiacJoe1995 Member
Posts: 184 From: Jim Thorpe PA , S.I NYC. Registered: Nov 2011
Move radiator to the rear? Never thought of that. How well would it cool? Exactly where to position it? Less weight in front more in rear? not sure about that though but it is an interesting idea. Anyone done this?
Could also TRY to remove the underside ribbing from the front and rear lids, don't know how strong they will be without it, but might be something to look into. Other than that, maybe a light weight engine and trans combo, but then I think you are at the limits, unless you tube frame or carbon tub. But then you are a trace car levels and not auto cross.
