After reading some definitive and productive results on the Subaru WRX forum about their success, along with other info and debate, I decided this would be the best approach to getting my ~160 deg inlet temps on just 3 psi of boost under control. Many say AWA is worthless outside of drag racing, but I realized many of those opinions were oblivious to the fact that drag cars generally do not use heat exchangers, just a tank for iced water.

Some are using AWA without a proper heat exchanger further suggesting it's inefficient but when you review the system in question you find that the heat exchanger is too small, or is actually an engine or transmission oil cooler, or both. The thermal capacity of water relative to air is also significantly better to counter and likely overcome the additional transfer medium involved.

As long as the system is optimized appropriately and a sufficient amount of water is used ~3 gal for daily driving it should work very well, without getting bogged down in formulas and debate. I'll be sure to post my results for all to see and make an informed decision on whether it is, or is not practical.

I expect my air temps to stay within 10 deg of ambient.

I started with a 600 hp kit from siliconeintakes, and changed the default exchanger to a 26x7x3.5, and the intercooler to a long flow design. It also has a cooling fan that I don't feel will be necessary, and a 330 GPH (500 GPH free flow) pump.




You'll have to trim this tab on both sides to clear the heat exchanger, especially on a lowered car otherwise the exchanger even at 7" tall would ride to low particularly if you took the easy mounting route and drilled the front lip of the impact cross member to bolt the tabs to. If you look closely at the picture after this one you'll see where I started to and had to change the location due to the ride height.



The two forward holes are the ones I was refering to above. The little metal strip behind the crossmember is what I was planning to weld the mounting tabs to until I realized how hard it would be when using stainless steel wire in the MIG, it doesn't weld friendly at all and I wound up doing something better by drilling through the tabs once they were tact in place and running bolts through them as I didn't feel the welds would hold. Be careful when welding, I set the harness protector on fire.



Here is the exchanger with the tabs I installed, attempted to weld and wound up drilling.



Here is a shot of the temp sensor plug and the drain plug which had a draincock that I removed because of its length.




I'll have to trim, or bend that mount a little to clear the upper outlet but it shouldn't be too much of a problem.


http://www.siliconeintakes....sid=464bf6ef17d424d4
bb4846b07ab09eee

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 07-15-2012).]

Next I'll have to work on installing the intercooler. It's hot in FL, and i'm tired from dividing my time between this and putting my brother's 401 nailhead together. For those of you who have never installed a rear main rope seal in one of these motors, you're lucky.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 07-15-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Joseph Upson: Next I'll have to work on installing the intercooler. It's hot in FL, and i'm tired from dividing my time between this and putting my brother's 401 nailhead together. For those of you who have never installed a rear main rope seal in one of these motors, you're lucky.

Looks exactly like the Frozen Boost heat exchanger unit that I am using, except that I have a 3800SC w the SSIC. The Bosch pump will work with 1/2" lines but struggles on anything smaller. I am using 3/8" lines to the IC unit and the Flojet can handle it.
If you are interested here is my IC install thread. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/118097.html
I've since completed it with the addition of a Moroso aluminum 2qt reservoir. Got to get all the air out and keep the supply point strong. My install seems to run a few degrees above ambient but I can drop ice in the reservoir if need be. Water to air intercooling works great at the track or for short runs. However, the water air intercoolers can get heat soaked over prolonged long hours of operation in summer.
If you want to run a little higher boost at the track, all you need to do is hook up a CO2 cryo cooler.


A car will gain 1% total output power for every 11 degrees cooler intake air charge, so having a colder intake charge is very important.
------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 07-15-2012).]

Notice how that is an air to air core. A spray bar on a heat exchanger would be a complete waste. An ice box would be a lot better.

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
11.54@132.7

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Looks exactly like the Frozen Boost heat exchanger unit that I am using, except that I have a 3800SC w the SSIC. The Bosch pump will work with 1/2" lines but struggles on anything smaller. I am using 3/8" lines to the IC unit and the Flojet can handle it. If you are interested here is my IC install thread. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/118097.html I've since completed it with the addition of a Moroso aluminum 2qt reservoir. Got to get all the air out and keep the supply point strong. My install seems to run a few degrees above ambient but I can drop ice in the reservoir if need be. Water to air intercooling works great at the track or for short runs. However, the water air intercoolers can get heat soaked over prolonged long hours of operation in summer. If you want to run a little higher boost at the track, all you need to do is hook up a CO2 cryo cooler. A car will gain 1% total output power for every 11 degrees cooler intake air charge, so having a colder intake charge is very important.

Yes its the same heat exchanger, and while doing a little researching I discovered the Bosch pump is used on several cars that have nothing to do with intercooling, its used to pump water through the heater core on the Cadi Caterra, and some late 90s Mercedes and VW cars. The "T" style filler neck is a piece available on the 2000 Dodge Dakota and Durango for those with access to a good size salvage yard.

The Subaru guys are having great success with AWA http://www.iwsti.com/forums...-water-ic-build.html
A 2 qt reservoir is not going to cut it for full-time daily driving as you've indicated, that's why I'm planning on a 3 gal volume to make sure routine driving is not sufficient enough to heat soak the system no matter how hard it's driven.

I'm also going to bypass the heater core at the engine and tie the ends into the exchanger loop and see if turning the A/C on with the blend door set to hot will cool the water below ambient. If my A/C had not already been charged I'd also try to build a water jacket around the accumulator drier as it runs about the same temp as the evaporator except it's wasted cold temperature sitting under the hood.

quote Originally posted by Justinbart: Notice how that is an air to air core. A spray bar on a heat exchanger would be a complete waste. An ice box would be a lot better.

oddball idea, but how about putting the spray bar in the waterbox? put a small vent on the top to relieve the pressure, and have the spraybar in the bottom of the tank? portable ice maybe? maybe a horrible idea, I don't know, just throwing ideas out there.

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there's a Group on 60degreeV6.com for us 660 Fiero owners!

Fiero Owner's group on 60degreeV6.com

I know these lines Look crooked on paper, but I swear I've got them straight in my head.

quote Originally posted by ericjon262: oddball idea, but how about putting the spray bar in the waterbox? put a small vent on the top to relieve the pressure, and have the spraybar in the bottom of the tank? portable ice maybe? maybe a horrible idea, I don't know, just throwing ideas out there.

The heat exchange characteristics are significantly different to the point where it is not practical. You can cool a given volume of air that way very quickly, but not water so you would see a small degree of temp change if any trying to cool water this way, without an unreasonably long sustained cooling effort. Consider how long it takes to heat a small pot of water to boil eggs. I'm only interested in a self maintaining system also.

Maybe spray a tiny of water amount on the intercooler radiator for some evaporative cooling? I have my doubts though.

quote Originally posted by dratts: Maybe spray a tiny of water amount on the intercooler radiator for some evaporative cooling? I have my doubts though.

Not efficient, it takes a lot of energy to change the temperature of a large quantity of water so you would have to spray quite a bit of water continuously (basically bathing) before you would see a change. It works well with air to air.

Specific heat of water, 4.18, air 1.0 at 100 deg C. Water is the best liquid for absorbing and transferring heat due to its physical properties. As was mentioned by someone else some time ago "..why we have water cooled engines instead of air".

I think that just wetting the surface not bathing would get a better evaporative effect. There is huge cooling with phase change of evaporation. Just not sure that it can apply with the surface areas we're talking about. I think that bathing it would only cool it the amount that the water is cooler than the radiator and not take into account evaporation. Anyway I have no idea what the actual numbers would be.

[This message has been edited by dratts (edited 07-15-2012).]

Where are you mounting the IC?

quote I'm also going to bypass the heater core at the engine and tie the ends into the exchanger loop and see if turning the A/C on with the blend door set to hot will cool the water below ambient. If my A/C had not already been charged I'd also try to build a water jacket around the accumulator drier as it runs about the same temp as the evaporator except it's wasted cold temperature sitting under the hood.

IMO its going to be very difficult to get the IC to operate at less than ambient temperature. If you use the A/C to do some of the cooling the energy expended to cool will prove more than the energy gained. Without an ice or cryo assist even the most efficient intercoolers won't get you below ambient and its a stretch to even get you to this point. Then you must decide which pump is better a slow flowing one to allow the FMHE to achieve the lowest cooling temps or should the FMHE prove super efficient, a fast flowing high capacity pump . How fast or slow you move that water through the FMHE will make a difference in temps.
Boosted air from a turbo or supercharger can hit 200*F or more. If you could even cut this in half, that would be a fantasic achievement but at a 3 psi boost level it doesn't sound like that big of a challenge.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by nosrac: Where are you mounting the IC?

In front of the cradle where the charge pipe already runs.

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: IMO its going to be very difficult to get the IC to operate at less than ambient temperature. If you use the A/C to do some of the cooling the energy expended to cool will prove more than the energy gained. Without an ice or cryo assist even the most efficient intercoolers won't get you below ambient and its a stretch to even get you to this point. Then you must decide which pump is better a slow flowing one to allow the FMHE to achieve the lowest cooling temps or should the FMHE prove super efficient, a fast flowing high capacity pump . How fast or slow you move that water through the FMHE will make a difference in temps. Boosted air from a turbo or supercharger can hit 200*F or more. If you could even cut this in half, that would be a fantasic achievement but at a 3 psi boost level it doesn't sound like that big of a challenge.

My inlet temps haven't reached 200 deg yet even with the brief periods boost pressure reached 15 psi on the engine prior to the current. My boost pressure is set at 3 psi because the engine runs strong at that point and I'm not done working on the tune. In addition to having read two posts where someone used the heater core in the loop without A/C with noticeable results plus my own experience with what happens to my engine coolant temps while watching the datalog when I turn on the heat on a hot day, I can't imagine it not having a positive effect. The question is how much. In your case it would be significant on a 2 qt system. I've already considered the variables involved including pump speed. A 45 deg vent temp is a considerable difference from ambient and should have some noticeable effect on temps while cruising around off boost. It works in the Ford, it'll work here also to some extent.

The heater core transfers a lot of heat into the air with the help of the high velocity focused windstream the blower motor produces. Using the A/C in this application does not amount to expending more energy since it will be on anyway, whether it is cooling the cabin, or the heatercore does not affect its drain on the system. The A/C is disengaged at whatever throttle input I program into the chip which is about 70% right now. I'll find out for sure once the system is up and running. If the A/C doesn't help any, it'll still be on cooling the cabin.

I'm speaking of a brief benefit, not continuously although at least running the blower motor without the A/C would contribute to cooling the water toward ambient regardless along with the exchanger.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 07-15-2012).]

By going air to water cooling you are adding two transfer steps to the problem. Air to air is one step, your air to water is three, step one is the hot air to the water, then moving the hot water to the cool radiator, then the hot water to cool air. It also takes energy to pump the water around, that is not free, so you need to subtract the power it takes to run the pump from any gain you get. I am thinking your payback will be very very small, if anything, when you count in the weight you add. Larry

quote Originally posted by Joseph Upson: In front of the cradle where the charge pipe already runs.

Is the IC going to fit? It seems like you got the BIG one. There is one smaller that probably will fit better.

quote Originally posted by nosrac: Is the IC going to fit? It seems like you got the BIG one. There is one smaller that probably will fit better.

14.5x4.5x5 there's plenty of room for it, anything smaller wouldn't meet the flow capability of the engine at the boost levels I plan to run.

Any pump that is only 36 watts or so (2.5 amps) will never move enough water do do $hit. You need to look a lot closer at your numbers. I would say it is a great science experment, but your numbers are way off. Larry

quote Originally posted by trotterlg: Any pump that is only 36 watts or so (2.5 amps) will never move enough water do do $hit. You need to look a lot closer at your numbers. I would say it is a great science experment, but your numbers are way off. Larry

The pump came with the kit, the pump used in the Ford Lightning is said to draw 2.5-3.5 amps and so far I haven't seen any pumps flow rated based on amps, so I'll stick with what I have unless you have actual proof otherwise that I can use, like your numbers for example.

Flow under resistance; ~ 300 GPH (actually rated higher).
= 5.0 GPM
= .083 GPS

That's nearly a tenth of a gallon per second through the intercooler and there is a draw back from flowing too fast, or too slow.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 07-23-2012).]

You need to move that decimal point one more spot to the left. Still seams too fast...

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
11.54@132.7

quote Originally posted by Justinbart: You need to move that decimal point one more spot to the left. Still seams too fast...

No, there're 60 seconds in a minute and 50 GPM is nearly 60 producing a ratio of .833 (50/60). I don't expect it to flow that much through two exchangers but as long as it manages 5 GPM through the system that should be more than adequate. If I ever feel the need to be exact I could always time how long it takes the return hose at the reservoir to fill a gallon jug.

It certainly does appear very fast though, more like spitting a gallon than flowing it.

You're right, I added a 0 to make 50 GPH

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 07-16-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Joseph Upson: No, there're 60 seconds in a minute and 50 GPM is nearly 60 producing a ratio of .833 (50/60). I don't expect it to flow that much through two exchangers but as long as it manages 5 GPM through the system that should be more than adequate. If I ever feel the need to be exact I could always time how long it takes the return hose at the reservoir to fill a gallon jug. It certainly does appear very fast though, more like spitting a gallon than flowing it. You're right, I added a 0 to make 50 GPH

300 gallons per hour / 60 minutes = 5 gallons per minute

5 gallons per minute / 60 seconds = .0833 gallons per second.

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
11.54@132.7

Updated with new posts in the "pending" slots saved above. Pump amperage is not an accurate measure of system performance as implied in an earlier post. The load, or flow efficiency has a lot to do with it. If you close off the outlet, any pump in place will draw more amperage and flow nothing.

The amount of water the pump can move has everything to do with the amount of energy avaliable to the pump (one horsepower equals 746 watts). Any pump I can find takes about 3 times the energy to move 300 gph of water than the one you have. I am not saying you won't get cooler air by using it, however I think you are way off in your calculations of it's ability to cool the air. Have you calculated how many gallons of air you will be moving through it? If you are moving 600 cfm of air it is about 5,000 gallons, you have to transfer the heat out of that much air to 5 gallons of water, (300 divided by 60 is 5), then move another 5,000 gallons of air through the hot side radiator to take out the heat you put in with the cold side radiator. Like I say, I think it will be a good science experment. Larry

quote Originally posted by trotterlg: The amount of water the pump can move has everything to do with the amount of energy avaliable to the pump (one horsepower equals 746 watts). Any pump I can find takes about 3 times the energy to move 300 gph of water than the one you have. I am not saying you won't get cooler air by using it, however I think you are way off in your calculations of it's ability to cool the air. Have you calculated how many gallons of air you will be moving through it? If you are moving 600 cfm of air it is about 5,000 gallons, you have to transfer the heat out of that much air to 5 gallons of water, (300 divided by 60 is 5), then move another 5,000 gallons of air through the hot side radiator to take out the heat you put in with the cold side radiator. Like I say, I think it will be a good science experment. Larry

I understand the concept, it's just not as simple as you're implying. You are refering to a pump with a capable amp load as if it were actually generating electricity in the manner that an alternator would and saying that it is insufficient when that depends on the demands placed on the system. For example, Dennis used 1/2" hoses for his install, I used 5/8" and that has an effect on the flow resistance among other things as well.

If it proves insuficient when put to the test, I'll simply replace the pump, it came with the kit, it had nothing to do with a calculation I performed, it came with the kit man, relax and see what happens.

I am a huge fan of W2A charge-cooling.

My '10 WRX w2a kit I built here in my garage (using the same basic kit you did!) I had a huge write up on 3GWRX. BTW, I upgraded to the BOSCH pump (Shelby GT500 pump) when I ordered the kit. Same one is being used on my turbo Fiero.










My 3800 turbo '88 is w2a as well

[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 07-20-2012).]

I use 3/4" lines

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
11.54@132.7

I did too. That was the size of the inlet and outlet on the BOSCH pump. Also, I used the fan on the radiator with a Hyden adjustable fan controller you can get at your local part store.

quote Originally posted by BV MotorSports: I did too. That was the size of the inlet and outlet on the BOSCH pump. Also, I used the fan on the radiator with a Hyden adjustable fan controller you can get at your local part store.

I placed the results in the thread slots above to keep them altogether and easier to follow. I'm a big fan of AWIC also now. I'm not far off from 3/4" hose so instead of changing out the 5/8" I'll look into Larry's suggestion of going with a more powerful pump to see if it can improve any on the good numbers I have with the current pump. I'm running fairly steady temps under boost more thans 60 degrees cooler than before and air temps seem to be staying within 10 deg of ambient in general. I still need to add another .5 gal to reach the 2.5 gal capacity I wanted.

I couldn't believe it, I stood on it several times and the air temps would hardly budge.

Nice job and great results. The only thing that I forgot to mention is to make sure that your pump has a diaphragm that will not be affected by circulating ethylene glycol/H2O based coolant. Many of these pumps were designed for pumping pure water only.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by Joseph Upson: I placed the results in the thread slots above to keep them altogether and easier to follow. I'm a big fan of AWIC also now. I'm not far off from 3/4" hose so instead of changing out the 5/8" I'll look into Larry's suggestion of going with a more powerful pump to see if it can improve any on the good numbers I have with the current pump. I'm running fairly steady temps under boost more thans 60 degrees cooler than before and air temps seem to be staying within 10 deg of ambient in general. I still need to add another .5 gal to reach the 2.5 gal capacity I wanted. I couldn't believe it, I stood on it several times and the air temps would hardly budge.

No doubt... very nicely done. On the WRX the return line as it dumped into the tank was about the strength of a garden hose w/o a nozzle on it. Nice and steady flow. I could hear it with the radio off and it drove me crazy! Cool, consistant temps. w2a is pretty much a given here in Fl.

I'll post up more of my build as I get it back.

Edit, oh yeah, I didnt use coolant. I used water and water wetter. If you can afford it, engine ice would be pretty awesome but expensive.

[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 07-21-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Nice job and great results. The only thing that I forgot to mention is to make sure that your pump has a diaphragm that will not be affected by circulating ethylene glycol/H2O based coolant. Many of these pumps were designed for pumping pure water only.

I'm using distilled water right now and am planning to look into an anticorrossive additive that will allow me to use distilled water along with something to prevent freezing in the radiator as well.

quote Originally posted by BV MotorSports: No doubt... very nicely done. On the WRX the return line as it dumped into the tank was about the strength of a garden hose w/o a nozzle on it. Nice and steady flow. I could hear it with the radio off and it drove me crazy! Cool, consistant temps. w2a is pretty much a given here in Fl. I'll post up more of my build as I get it back. Edit, oh yeah, I didnt use coolant. I used water and water wetter. If you can afford it, engine ice would be pretty awesome but expensive.

The info I found on the subject on the Subaru forum is what really got me motivated to do this. I blew a nice chunk of change a few years earlier fooling around with air to air intercoolers because I couldn't find documented results like what I've posted for example and found on the Subaru forum, to ignore all the claims that air to water was a waste of time outside of track use and wouldn't work in a daily driver. There is an unbelievable amount of desent regarding it on the net with very little proof to support it.

I used transparent water hose from Home Depot in the low temp areas up front and can see the water flowing. It was much cheaper than heater hose and more practical since it wouldn't be subjected to high pressure. I'm going to use their copper/brass, or aluminum tubing when I go back and set the system up independent of the heater core lines. I've used it before to do a front mount oil cooler and the tubes fit right along side the A/C and heater core tubes next to the gas tank.

I can not hear my pump running eventhough it sits just ahead of the Brake Mastercylinder. I can feel the difference in responsiveness and now I can get back to tuning.

Thanks to you and Dennis for your input and posts on your success with this mod, and you to Larry.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 07-22-2012).]

quote I'm using distilled water right now and am planning to look into an anticorrossive additive that will allow me to use distilled water along with something to prevent freezing in the radiator as well.

You can't go wrong with that. As you know, the cooling properties of pure water far exceed that of anti-freeze but for us NE /Mid Atlantic folks, anti-freeze ("coolant") is a way of life. Do you really have sub 32*F days in Tampa Florida? I believe that you can still buy cooling system rust inhibiter addives for pure water systems. We have some here in the garage that gives no freeze protection but I've haven't used it enough to say that it works or is completely non-corrosive. I am using a 40/60 mix of anti-freeze and water in my IC system that uses a Flo-Jet RV supply pump. Installed the system in April and so far the pump is still working. Just wonder if I should have used RV water system anti-freeze???
Getting back to your system it was apparently well thought out, designed properly and your results speak for themselves.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: You can't go wrong with that. As you know, the cooling properties of pure water far exceed that of anti-freeze but for us NE /Mid Atlantic folks, anti-freeze ("coolant") is a way of life. Do you really have sub 32*F days in Tampa Florida? I believe that you can still buy cooling system rust inhibiter addives for pure water systems. We have some here in the garage that gives no freeze protection but I've haven't used it enough to say that it works or is completely non-corrosive. I am using a 40/60 mix of anti-freeze and water in my IC system that uses a Flo-Jet RV supply pump. Installed the system in April and so far the pump is still working. Just wonder if I should have used RV water system anti-freeze??? Getting back to your system it was apparently well thought out, designed properly and your results speak for themselves.

Florida is home base, I actually spend time in Atlanta GA completing my education. It snows here nearly every year and definately gets down below freezing. I'm just hopping mad about anti-freeze prices and manufacturers have actually had the gall to try and sell a 50/50 pre mix for more than $11. I've had it with some aspects of capitalism.

I have to make sure that whatever I come up with, it prevents rust since I still have to install the OE 3900 water cooled oil cooler, how bout that for another air to water cooling plug.

The last time I used it rust flakes loose in the system before it was flushed clogged the cooler up. It's nice and compact, looks like half an oil filter and mounts between the filter and the mount. My oil temps are currently running right at 200 deg surprisingly.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 08-06-2012).]

When I selected the pump for my system I avoided the Bosch pump because I had read of failures and knew of one personally. The Bosch pump was rated at 7-8 gpm and I sourced a brass solar pump with magnetic drive that flows 7 gpm and is designed for all day operation at higher temperatures than we see on our intercooler systems. I have seen kits that use plastic pumps! But they just didn't inspire me with confidence. I would welcome opinions on my choice.

quote Originally posted by dratts: When I selected the pump for my system I avoided the Bosch pump because I had read of failures and knew of one personally. The Bosch pump was rated at 7-8 gpm and I sourced a brass solar pump with magnetic drive that flows 7 gpm and is designed for all day operation at higher temperatures than we see on our intercooler systems. I have seen kits that use plastic pumps! But they just didn't inspire me with confidence. I would welcome opinions on my choice.

Unless you're running extremely high boost, or have your pump inline after the intercooler and before the heat exchanger, it shouldn't encounter high temps. I would expect the Bosch pump appropriately placed in the system to perform very well unless you are using one different than the Ford Lightning application. OE parts are usually designed around some degree of longevity.

I heard a lot of good stuff about Walbro fuel pumps before purchansing one, I wouldn't buy another thanks to the noise and sensitivity to overheat and shut down under the same circumstances that an OE pump would keep right on pumping. Search the web and find threads where it's being used and see what you come up with.

There is a version of the plastic pump I have that has nearly twice the flow rating that I may consider unless adding the additional .5 gal capacity will accomplish the same thing.