so many have commented on my past issues and just when I got her going.....

drove her all over yesterday without any issues... park her... go to drive her today .... no start, no spark i suspect so....

after inspecting distributor I purchased and installed new cap, rotor, and ignition module .... ignition module because it was mentioned in the past that if the tach don't move when she's cranking over it's the lil distributor chip .... yea made zero difference ......

so what gets replaced next?

also from my old posts It is a new coil also ....

also replaced the ignition switch on the column ....

Pick up coil if you are just throwing parts at it.

You should test the pick up coil if you want to do it with more thought into it.



----
The procedure for replacing the coil IF it tests bad


This is for the V-6

Removing the distributor


Replacing the pick up coil




Replacing the distributor



Timing the engine after replacing the distributor into the block

OK I don't have an ohm meter... have a light tester but that would probably fry my light tester?

secondly ... i replaced the ignition switch on the column because car wouldn't crank over by key... while it does now its picky
you crank the key over and it turns over but doesn't start, ease back on the key a bit till dash lights come on and varoom it starts I tried adjusting the switch every which way Maybe now it's all in the key switch itself ????

Thanks for the good video's there... so my pick-up coil was real crusty looking and I'm sure will have to do that anyways

I have not heard of it but it is a possibility. There are three leads that go through the switch that are needed for the engine to run

First thing to look for is does the tach rise to 200 rpm during cranking? If the tach drops out that could mean you could be losing the ignition lead. You can measure for it on the pink wire of the ignition coil. It should always have +12v on it when the key is in on or start.

Second is the INJ1 fuse (and INJ2 for a 2.8) The fuse box swings down after you release the side latches. Then just check for the voltage at the fuse during cranking.

Finally the last one is the ECM fuse. Note the ECM fuse is mis-labled and only controls voltage to the ECM, not to the ignition coil.



(also ignore the red arrow - I googled up the image and the one I found has the arrow)

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 06-18-2012).]

Ok. I'll be the bad guy: There's a lot of great info in this thread, PLEASE use a descriptive title that will make it surface for the rest of us if we do an archive search, or if we're just browsing on a sunday night. With all the possible issues that a Fiero can present, "yet another issue" doesn't really help. Just saying....

[This message has been edited by tucsonsean (edited 06-18-2012).]

1= no the tach isn't moving at all
2= i do have juice at the pink when key is on .... i'll have to have my 8yr old crank it for me after school tomorrow LOL
3= cant change the title of topic... maybe a mod could

So how certain are you on this ignition switch thing? If you are sure that everything works when the switch is turned back slightly and you have tried adjusting it all the way each way on the adjustment slots of the switch, I would have to say the problem is your replacement switch is bad.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 06-18-2012).]

I'm sure the switch is OK, it has to be the rod or the key switch.

the distributor and second pickup where pretty crusty and rusty .... i used some sand paper on the spiral star looking contacts + new cap,rotor and ICM


I'm sure I'll end up doing both

Actually rust on the star makes no difference.

OK after pulling steering wheel and getting to the key switch I realized none of the wires actually go there it's all on the column switch which Is new,

after inspecting the distributor again, I cleaned the connection going to the little condenser beside the distributor..... surprise it started !!!

thinking i was good to go drove down to the local car wash to vacuum out the interior, got done started it to leave and just as i go to back-up instantly died.... back to the same issue... towed it home

thinking this has to do with somewhere between the key switch, rod and ignition switch I pulled the column again and figure I'll sit on my couch and strip down into the tilt section so I can see where the rod hooks up.

if all else fails anyone have good video or diagrams related to bypassing this and running a toggle with a push button start?
(this electrical issue has gotten me a bit heated)

I'd appreciate it

quote Originally posted by jkgreene1976: SO .....Am I missing something here ?????

Other than the wrong fuse in the upper right hand corner, it looks fine to me.

quote Originally posted by jkgreene1976: OK after pulling steering wheel and getting to the key switch I realized none of the wires actually go there it's all on the column switch which Is new, after inspecting the distributor again, I cleaned the connection going to the little condenser beside the distributor..... surprise it started !!! thinking i was good to go drove down to the local car wash to vacuum out the interior, got done started it to leave and just as i go to back-up instantly died.... back to the same issue... towed it home thinking this has to do with somewhere between the key switch, rod and ignition switch I pulled the column again and figure I'll sit on my couch and strip down into the tilt section so I can see where the rod hooks up. if all else fails anyone have good video or diagrams related to bypassing this and running a toggle with a push button start? (this electrical issue has gotten me a bit heated) I'd appreciate it

Well lets look at this again. I have doubts that the trouble is with the switch.

Did you check for power on the INJ1, INJ2, ECM and PINK COIL wire when someone cranks the engine? If they all have power during cranking and at the key on position, then the trouble is not with the ignition switch. You can test by holding a test light to the back test points on the fuses (you should have power on both test points) and then again at the distributor.

So does power cut out on one or more of those lead during cranking?

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz: Pick up coil if you are just throwing parts at it. You should test the pick up coil if you want to do it with more thought into it.

with a light tester at the coil - have juice at all 4 wires with the key in the on position

have juice going into tach filter (rf condensor) NO JUICE comming out .... not sure if this would inhibit starting but will have a new one about 2pm today (also a pick-up coil just incase nothing else works)

looking into wiring around the column, the clutch saftey had been disconected so I hooked it back up ( made no difference)
yhe yellow wire comming out of the ignition switch had been cut and a hooked to a wire someone ran under the console and up toward the computer box (havent removed console to see what it's hooked to)

I unhooked this yellow to red wire and ran the yellow back to where it had been cut ( then car wouldnt turn over at all) so hooked it bback to the red ....... somekind of clutch saftey switch bypass ?????????

Also .......................... I've noticed with the key on , i can wiggle the pink,yellow or red wires that run into the ignition switch and the power cuts out, i tried replacing the connector ends in the plug so to have a good solid connection and the power still cuts out when i wiggle these wires ....... did i get a bunk switch from the parts store ?????

man I am so at a loss , i cant afford for a shop to figure it out ......

Thread title changed by request of OP.

quote Originally posted by jkgreene1976: with a light tester at the coil - have juice at all 4 wires with the key in the on position

If you have wire on all in both on and start then your problem is not in the column.

quote have juice going into tach filter (rf condensor) NO JUICE comming out .... not sure if this would inhibit starting but will have a new one about 2pm today (also a pick-up coil just incase nothing else works)

Yep that is how it is supposed to work

quote looking into wiring around the column, the clutch saftey had been disconected so I hooked it back up ( made no difference)

the only thing the safety switch will do is prevent the starter from getting power. Nothing else.

quote The yellow wire comming out of the ignition switch had been cut and a hooked to a wire someone ran under the console and up toward the computer box (havent removed console to see what it's hooked to) I unhooked this yellow to red wire and ran the yellow back to where it had been cut ( then car wouldnt turn over at all) so hooked it bback to the red ....... somekind of clutch saftey switch bypass ?????????

Are you talking about the fat yellow wire? That only controls the starter nothing else.

quote Also .......................... I've noticed with the key on , i can wiggle the pink,yellow or red wires that run into the ignition switch and the power cuts out, i tried replacing the connector ends in the plug so to have a good solid connection and the power still cuts out when i wiggle these wires ....... did i get a bunk switch from the parts store ?????

If the power drops out when you wiggle the switch either your switch is bad or the connectors right at the switch are bad. Wiggle carefully and see what happens. Worst case - bring the switch back and get a new one.

quote ...man I am so at a loss , i cant afford for a shop to figure it out ......

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 06-19-2012).]

So an intermittent connection somewhere.
A new ignition switch is probably a good idea, but don't forget those multi-way connections to the ignition module too - they
can make it look like the ignition module is dead. Try a wiggle of them while the eight year old cranks it over....

Just in case...
Once it won't crank, have you tried the old squirt of starter fluid in the intake just to make sure it's not a fuel pump issue?
(I know you said the tach was dead though)

(fingers Crossed)


FIXED !!!! I can not belive that I replaced a Bad switch with a BRAND NEW Bad switch !!!

took the new switch back, paid for the better grade one and it works flawlessly ...... I can't freaking belive it, all this time and hassle.

from now on I'll pay for the middle or best grade parts

[This message has been edited by jkgreene1976 (edited 06-19-2012).]

Great news! And I believe it, because I've been there and my wife has the 'I told you so' rights for a year to prove it. I'll never buy discount parts for my baby again!

OMG !!!! I can not belive this crap !!

jump in the car this morning and turns over wont start just like before...WTF is going on?

i replaced that ignition switch yesterday and it worked, started just as it should.

the red wire going into the ignition switch has constant power .... is this correct? or is it not suposed to and it's burning up the ignition switch?

the only other thing I can imagine is the jury rigged clutch safety someone had run , yellow ignition wire under the console up to the purple wire at the brain box.
( i stripped out thier bypass job, hooked the clutch safety back up and it all works, clutch safety switch is fine......could the jury rigged bypass been burning up the ignition switch on the inside? cause the exterior looks fine

Don't forget about the pickup coil.

thats the one thing i havent done.... was trying to put off pulling the dizzy

i just cant figure how I plugged in the new switch and walla' started right up,

I guess I'll do that tomorrow.

I tried to buy a new tach filter, evidently parts store has no listing for it they handed me one with a single wire.

So I am to belive that the previous owner parked it due to failed water pump (note: i had zero starting issues while dealing with the overheating) and over time the pick-up coil decides to be intermittent and the auction yard thought it was the clutch safety switch and did a shotty bypass even though the clutch safety switch functions just fine...... and the ignition switch was bad too ....... jeez 1 car so many problems

[This message has been edited by jkgreene1976 (edited 06-20-2012).]

quote Originally posted by jkgreene1976: OMG !!!! I can not belive this crap !! jump in the car this morning and turns over wont start just like before...WTF is going on? i replaced that ignition switch yesterday and it worked, started just as it should. the red wire going into the ignition switch has constant power .... is this correct?

Yes

quote or is it not suposed to and it's burning up the ignition switch?

No it is not burning up the ignition switch

quote the only other thing I can imagine is the jury rigged clutch safety someone had run , yellow ignition wire under the console up to the purple wire at the brain box. ( i stripped out thier bypass job, hooked the clutch safety back up and it all works, clutch safety switch is fine......could the jury rigged bypass been burning up the ignition switch on the inside? cause the exterior looks fine

Nope

OK being a bit pissed I went over and did the coil pick-up on the distributor (way easier than I expected)

slid it back in I marked it well so didn't put a light on it but ....... so far ... she runs!!

then spent some tine prepping the hood.top and deck lid with the bad clear coat for a fresh coat of paint

lets hope i have no more ingnition issues...

I think due to sitting so long next in line will be a oil change / air filter and full chassis lube

I need to replace my pickup coil as well. Is there anything I need to do prior to popping off the old one? Does the new one have to go back in the exact position rotation wise?

yes , i cleaned around mine and made 3 very precise marks and also one on the rotor and a mark on the flat area there of the dist. the housing has to go back in the same spot and the rotor as to be pointing in the EXACT same spot as when taken out , i didnt but probly a good idea to put a timing light on it after,