Ok so the drivers side seat, the PO must have let it get wet because every single nut besides the rear right nut (next to the center console) Is completely stuck. The front nut closest to the door basically rusted off so I dont have to worry about that one, I managed to get the other front nut off by hammering a 10 mm impact socket on with an extension and using the impact wrench, but the rear two bolts are really hard to access because the seat doesnt slide forward enough to clear them. Ive basted the left hand one with deep creep but it is not helping, it is by far the most stuck of the 4 nuts. It got rounded off so I grinded some new flat sides into it and used the correct sized open wrench that I hammered on and it still rounded it because it is way too stuck. Then I took a dremel tool with a metal cut off wheel and sliced a slit in it that doesnt go through the base though because I didnt want to cut into the floor. Once the slot was cut I tried wedging the nut open... didnt work, then I tried hammering it around off the bolt with screwdriver and hammer, that did not work. Then I got real angry and gave up to ask for some advice. Thanks,
Zach
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01:39 AM
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gmctyphoon1992 Member
Posts: 693 From: Lighthouse Pt, Florida Registered: Jun 2010
had the same exact problem in my 1988 gt... It seems like if they are rusted that bad than your cross members where the studs are attached are probably shot too.. I had to cut my studs off because I could not get them out and put a screw and nut on there with a custom mount since I didnt have a cross member anymore from all that rust..
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02:25 AM
crashyoung Member
Posts: 1333 From: Lowell, Michigan, USA Registered: May 2012
best thing to use hands down is this they are stripped bolt and nut removers, each wrench has 4 head size built in that cover a certain range of nuts. they are available in a ratchet and socket form as well but the wrenches are the easiest to get under the seat. seriously, i had bolts that were nothing, there was hardly even a bolt there and it cut in deep and pulled it out. Definitely get some penetrating oil on there first though.
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10:40 AM
jetman Member
Posts: 7789 From: Sterling Heights Mich Registered: Dec 2002
Same thing on my 86, seat nuts rusted, siezed up. Used PB blaster for a week, one was still not moving anywhere fast so I brought in the heavy artilery. Poured a cup of water on the surounding carpet then took MAP gas to the nut. It's my winter daily driver, no worries, helper was spraying down the seat as I was heating up the nut.
One of the studs was a "spinner" so I threaded a nut all the way down to the floor to secure it, will figure something out for that later if I keep the car for another winter.
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10:56 AM
zkhennings Member
Posts: 1922 From: Massachusetts, USA Registered: Oct 2010
I have those easy out sockets and none of them fit the nut, and its hard to grind the nut on all sides so one of them will fit. I guess I will keep deep creeping it
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12:43 PM
deezil Member
Posts: 779 From: St Louis Mo USA Registered: Mar 2010
The two have fused as one unfortunately there is no longer a shape to either of them, the threads are fused I dont think any mixture of anything will fix that. I have some nut breakers i will try those, the bottom of the nut having a built in washer makes cracking the nut a little harder however.
The two have fused as one unfortunately there is no longer a shape to either of them, the threads are fused I dont think any mixture of anything will fix that. I have some nut breakers i will try those, the bottom of the nut having a built in washer makes cracking the nut a little harder however.
Been there, done that.... I used one of these. Worked great. Harbor Freight has them as well.
Ok so I have done a ton of work to my car including an engine swap and taking off these seat nuts has been the worst by far. spent 5 hours yesterday to remove the drivers seat and the two front nuts from the passengers. On the really stuck nut I used a dremel and the nut splitter to get it off. Took around 2 hours and I had to keep whacking it around to cut more and more off until I actually cut it completely in half. The bolt is ruined. Then the right side rear seat nut which is so hard to access was really stuck. I split this one with a nut splitter right away ( which advertise as not ruining the threads which is bs the nut wont be anywhere close to split unti lthe threads are ruined) so it was easier than the revious one. But harder at the same time because of how akward it was to be back there. I used a lot of force and taps form the hammer with a chisel and an air chisel to get it off around another 2 hours later. The seat was finally out. Now I go the passenger side which looks way better. Only the front right nut wasnt fully frozen. Now I am very used to getting off stuck nuts and bolts I usually use torches. These were different. The threads were basically gone even on the inside of the nut bolt area It was awful. Had to use a nut splitter on the other front bolt and then The wire under the seat is broken so it doesnt slide. I understand what to do to the piece on the rail to get it to slide (from seeing the underside of the seat that is out) But what tool is commonly used? Prybar or really big flathead? Im going to have to replace almost every bolt not fun!
Super hard to cut it off. it is essentially directly against the floor and the seats never fully clear the nuts especially in the back, impossible to get a cutoff wheel on it. and you cant do nut and bolt combo because the floor pan is not exposed from the bottom of the car (ithink) at least you wouldnt be able to access the side of the bolt you couldnt see which is why I have to weld new ones in place
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11:51 PM
Jun 25th, 2012
zkhennings Member
Posts: 1922 From: Massachusetts, USA Registered: Oct 2010
Ok well I have successfully removed the entire interior besides the dash. After destroying 3 of the 4 seat studs and nuts (gunna be annoying to replace all the studs) And then destroying one of the studs on the other side, I had enough. Even with the correct sized 6 point socket on a wrench and deep creep which has never failed me, All of the nuts would round and I would have to split them. I finally decided to give that freeze off stuff a try (similar to the loctite product posted earlier). But it's called freeze off and its sold at all the parts stores I think. Directions say to use the red straw and spray directly on the bolt and threads for 20 seconds to freeze and crack the rust and let the oil penetrate. Worked like a charm. Every remaining nut came off easily and without much fuss. Tapping the nut with a hammer helped to break the rust as well. But its a great product and I reccomend it
I'd love to get some of this stuff just to have on hand, but thus far have not found it locally. I could buy it online, but the shipping costs kill you....
Same goes for this stuff, I'd like to try either one, but again, try finding it locally...
[This message has been edited by a_bartle (edited 06-27-2012).]
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12:01 PM
jaskispyder Member
Posts: 21510 From: Northern MI Registered: Jun 2002
another idea may be to grind off the bolt from under the car. Then just replace with nut/bolt/washer.... if you can get to it (I haven't looked lately).