the motor im supposibly getting has 150k miles, so a good check, plus replacing all the gaskets (heads, and oil pan)
head studs by arp
90# springs
a plog for the exhuast manifold, i was actually debating on using two plogs to make a true dual exhuast, anyone ever did this? however im not sure what to do about the o2 sensor. maybe run a sim?
colder plugs, the coldest, not worried about price, but what are your recommendations?
which one produces better top end torque, the xp or vs cam?
and dont they have a drop replacement fuel pump that has 255lph?
and a colder tstat, should i go with 180-170-or 160*?
the radiator in my car is for the 4cyl 2.5l but i heard it is good, there will be no a/c in the car, so i believe its the condensor is removed.
what are the part numbers for the radiator hoses that i need, I know you gurus done figured that out, but didnt see any info on any treads since.
i believe the heater core tubes come out going towards the back of the car, yeah they will. do i need to modify this in any way, or can i just route hose to the stock locations?
i was thinking about just using an6 connector for the fuel system with braided lines. do the stock lines coming from the tank need to be bigger, is the stock replacement fuel good? and what is a recommendation on an adjustable fuel pressure?
however all this will be figured out sooner or later, im just putting on paper for mapping out everything im doing so i can get a parts list together and start buying.
friendofyours has flywheels machined and balanced for 220, thats very good.
his mounts looks like they are solid, i want either rubber or poly atleast, since this will be a street car.
im using an f23, and havent seen anyone making mounts for it except thelin, and i believe his or for an 88. mine is an 87.
i was thinking about spec for clutch, pressure plate, 3+ stage?
i havent thought too much about brakes, however if my car is in neutral the brakes should work just like they would with a 4cyl. but if i upgraded to grandam calipers, i would be upsetting other parts of the system, so if i go that route, i seen some aftermaket calipers and brake assemblies in a racing shop near me, some with even four pistons! then a s10 brake booster upgrade.
I'll have to buy me another wiring harness, because my 97 wont work, i dont want to buy a complete one, but if you have an untouched 98-up wiring harness, I could buy off of you soon?
is there anything im forgetting? I want to have fun

I also plan on changing out the timing chain, gears, guide and waterpump. I forgot to mention. maybe the rear and main seals while I'm in there.

im using an f23, and havent seen anyone making mounts for it except thelin, and i believe his or for an 88. mine is an 87. Dean at Whodeanies' makes the mounts for the F23. Also, it may be cheaper for you to buy a long block from ZZP (2400) and end up with a really good motor. I wish we would of went this route on my build.

YOu can get a 100% brand new, plug and play wiring harness from Jim at Injection Technology for about $600 (I believe he and Dean are working out a distributor account).


and dont they have a drop replacement fuel pump that has 255lph? You could use the 3rd gen fbody 3.8T fuel pump.


and a colder tstat, should i go with 180-170-or 160*? 180

the radiator in my car is for the 4cyl 2.5l but i heard it is good, Should be fine but the 2 row Champion is only $170 or so.


i was thinking about just using an6 connector for the fuel system with braided lines. do the stock lines coming from the tank need to be bigger, is the stock replacement fuel good? and what is a recommendation on an adjustable fuel pressure? If you look for my build thread L67 Getrag 88GT in the archives, I have the p/n's for the fuel line adapters.


i was thinking about spec for clutch, pressure plate, 3+ stage? Sounds good.

[This message has been edited by BV MotorSports (edited 06-08-2012).]

whodeanie has been very busy lately so I haven't heard from him about mounts.
the wiring harness is not hard to make. I rather buy an untouched one for 120-150 and make it then spend 600 on one.

quote Originally posted by Ryanstalin: whodeanie has been very busy lately so I haven't heard from him about mounts. the wiring harness is not hard to make. I rather buy an untouched one for 120-150 and make it then spend 600 on one.

Wiring if you can do it.. have at it. Mounts, if you are gonna beat on it, try FieroX.

yeah I prepared a 97 wire harness but the guy that is doing my flash can't do 97.
on mounts I'm still unclear of the details, I know the 3800 has a front engine mount, like the 2.5 had. and the two dogbones on top, for the transmission I guess there is a back and front. but does it also have a side one, I've seen it on the cavalier. it bolts towards the top of the engine bay. I wonder how much it would take to utilized the factory mounts of the original donor cars, with modified brackets. but i see everyone using both custom instead. so i guess theres a good reason for that, the reason I'm stating using the inner mount from the donor cars, is so when one does break, I can just buy one at autozone.

Replacing the headgaskets would be a huge mistake unless they are somehow blown up currently.

well if they havent already been changed on a 150k motor, i believe it would be best to have the heads taken off, pressure checked and resurfaced, and installed new springs, retainers and keepers. and installed with new headgaskets. but then again, id like to do a pressure check on the motor to see how good of compression it has. but im not sure how to do that on an uninstalled motor.

If the engine is on a stand and you have a starter and flywheel/flex pate then you just need to hook a good battery right up to the B+ terminal and put the ground on the block somewhere. Then just jump the starter solenoid and B+ with a screwdriver or get a high amperage switch if you feel like. Pull all the plugs and check compression. I would leave a battery charger on charging the battery while you are testing.

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
11.54@132.7

hmm.. i was thinking about that myself. so i should do that?

Don't forget us when you're looking for parts

4 point plus dogbone for mounts. Thicker and cheaper than anyone out there

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3.4TDC/4.9l/3800(SC) Swap kits and parts

does your four point cone with poly. also. when do you plan. of having some f23 parts, I do want a flywheel from you, 220 is the cheapest ive seen.

All mounts are rubber. You don't need poly with 5 mounts. F23 parts are about a month off


Shoot me a PM if you need anything or have any questions

[This message has been edited by FriendOfYours (edited 06-09-2012).]

repin for a 98-02 PCM

well if i repin it i will have different color wires that dont match.

i either repin, or if it is easier just find the different year harness to do. i was throwing around ideals of a true dual exhuast, using two camaro manifolds, or just running the transverse style and having a single, but wonder what it does for performance and/or sound.
another thing, on the restoration, whats the best for firewall installation material? i didnt see anything on the fiero store.
also when i took the rear roof off, the whole upper back body, it was sitting on cusion pads. i dont know where to find them, since mine got torn off so i could paint the chassis.

engine gasket kit ZZ-engk-l67 $160
gm adhesive GM-88861417 $12
Rollmaster timing set rm-cs6141 $110
timing chain dampener cly-9-5344 $17
Cam Key gm-24500618 $2
90# valve springs GM-12499224 $60
arp head studs arp-193-4001 $80
Modular pulley system
MT-GTPPL3300-BLACK ZZ-MPSHUB $100
and i pm'd friendofyours but you havent got back to me.
this list does not account for the headgaskets.
and i want to know the difference in psi between the 3.4 pulley and 3.3.