If it's an '88, then it has the gen2 headlight system. For starters, open the hood and look on the inboard side of the headlight pod, down near the bottom. You'll find a two wire connector sitting on top of the frame rail there.
Try unplugging the connector and making sure the pins are clean and free of rust or corrosion, and replugging it in. If that doesn't solve anything, then you'll need a multimeter to troubleshoot any further. Have you got one?
(Edited to add photo)
[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 05-15-2012).]
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09:21 AM
FieroFERG Member
Posts: 129 From: Hutchinson, ks, us Registered: Mar 2012
Then do you have a test light? If not, you'll need to borrow or buy either a light or a meter. I, or someone else can walk you through how to use either one.
There's one more spot you can check to see if there's a problem just by looking. The headlight motors are each powered directly from the battery through a fusible link, which is just a fancy way of saying a sacrificial piece of wire that's made to melt if too much current is drawn from the headlight assemblies. There is one fusible link for each headlight motor and they're found inside the front compartment near the base of the hood prop.
There you'll see a large electrical wire harness that's got two orange or rust colored loops of wire poking out. Those are the fusible links.
Peel back the corrugated wire loom and inspect both rust colored wires (a couple inches long) to make sure neither one is burnt. If so, you'll need to buy a new fusible link at any parts store, cut out the old one, and crimp the new one in place (never solder a fusible link). If that's not the problem, then you'll need a meter or a test light.
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06:42 PM
FieroFERG Member
Posts: 129 From: Hutchinson, ks, us Registered: Mar 2012
That means you're going to have to break down and buy a cheap multimeter or a test light to figure out if it's the module or the motor. Once you have one, post back here and I or someone else will walk you through how to test the circuits.
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03:38 PM
PFF
System Bot
FieroFERG Member
Posts: 129 From: Hutchinson, ks, us Registered: Mar 2012
Lower the headlight cradle using the manual knob at the top of the motor. Does it go down? If so put the headlights on. Does the headlight come back up and the motor stop? If so it could be the headlight relay. If the motor energizes and no motion is seen then the mechanism needs a quick and easy fix.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
First See my cave, gen 2 hl motor in lighting section.
1 motor is dead or module is dead
Use a meter or test light on 2 wire plug. See if module is power to motor w/o motor connected. Without the motor connected the module will send power for 5-6 seconds and then shut off.
If that works then likely the motor has problems. If the test fails then the module is bad.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
If it's the module, then it is quite easy to fix (with a few soldering skills):
Module taken off (hidden behind inner LH wheel arch)
Open up the module to expose the circuit board:
99% of the time, it's the TRIAC power transitors that are fried:
Go buy two new TRIACs at your local electronics store - they're dirt cheap, even in Europe!
Take out the old burnt TRIACs and solder in the new ones:
New ones fitted:
Once you've done this, reassemble the module and refit it to the car. Like I said, an easy fix and alot cheaper than having to find a good module on E-bay!
