There is no spark on my 86 fiero 2.8L. I am wondering how to test the pick up coil and the ignition module. I had a picture sent to me a while back but did not make much since. Didnt have one of the wires they got me to check.

------------------
86 fiero 2.8L

Checking for spark with a tool like this:



Set the gap on it to 0.045" for the V6 or 0.060" for the 4 cylinder, unplug the middle spark plug wire from the distributor, and plug it into the tester. Connect the clamp end to a good ground that you can see the spark tester while you're cranking the engine over. This would be easier with two people, one to watch for a spark, and one to crank the engine. If there is spark, put plug wire back on distributor cap, and take plug wire off one of the spark plugs, test again. If no spark this time, suspect cap and/or rotor, or plug wire(s)

-Test coil:

Primary Resistance should be 0.2 - 0.7 Ohms
Secondary resistance should be 6.0k - 11.0k Ohms



-Test Pickup Coil:

Check for continuity between the two terminals of the connector. Check resistance - should be 500 - 1500 Ohms.
Check continuity between each terminal and a ground, should be NO continuity.

-Test ignition control module:
Many parts stores can test these, have them test it a few times in a row so it gets nice and hot.

Does your tach (assuming it works) rise from 0 to 200 during cranking and then back to 0 after?

If not look at the primary ignition components (pick up coil, ICM, ICM to coil wire, and the ignition coil)

If the tach does rise to 200 and drops back down then look at your secondary ignition components (Ignition Coil, wires, and rotor)

Go here and download the 87 service manual (I know you’re driving an 86 but the ignition system is the same) and go to page 660. There is very detailed test procedure.

Thanks for the replys as for the tach no, it does not work, my tach filter is broken. And the ignition coil was just replaced so thats good. I will try the pick up coil test in a few minutes.will come back with answers. Thanks again

quote Originally posted by Foley: Also do i need to remove distributor to test pick up coil? which connectors are you talking about?

No...just unplug it and test. If it's bad, then you have to remove the distributor.

Well didnt have any time tonight to check this and tomorrow am gone for the night. friday hopefully!

bought pick up and rotor got old rotor off and dont know what to do next

Videos by buddycraigg

Removing the distributor


Replacing the pick up coil




Replacing the distributor



Timing the engine after replacing the distributor into the block

Well replaced the pick up and rotor button. Now have spark bought gas threw er in. Tried starting it praying and it caught a little bit but didnt turn over. What should i do now?

Bump need help asap thanks!

might be out of timing. do a search for top dead center. i know there is a few post recently that have had the way to do it.

And we have a new running fiero added to the world! turns out the guy that had it before me had mixed the wiring all up! all the plug wires were in wrong spots! but now to get this thing to a spot where i can lift it higher and replace all brake lines transmision lines coolant lines everything. Was soo happy although it did catch fire cause of leaves but got it put out in time so were good Thanks for all the help and will definatly be back with some questions again. Much appriciated.

Clean the leaves out from the inside of your heater box or that will be the next place that starts on fire.

Thanks will do that today if it gets a little nicer. Plan on getting ramps to push it up onto to get it a little higher off the ground

I post file often for problems like yours:


Your’s could be a common problem and don’t cost anything to check.
Try this:
Watch the tach when cranking if it don’t move you're not getting pulses from the distributor. If so, it could be a faulty module in it or more likely simply corroded connectors at the base of the distributor. Reseating those connectors a few times could clean the pins some and also do the same to the connectors on the coil etc. These cars are old, and old connectors corrode. Such can also manifest itself as intermittent misfires, and engine cutouts.

BTW: lots of folks keep replacing modules and coils thinking they are bad because the new ones FIX the problem, when in actuality the fact that they simply unpluged the connectors and repluged them into the new unit cleaned the contacts enough to make it work again, at least for a while. It's smart, to replace those old connectors with new ones.
BTW: Cliphouse has those connectors

------------------

trueleo.com
RSpiderII@aol.com

Okay so went outside today to start it to show somebody and the battery is dead completely. Assuming there is a draw from some electrical component, Any ideas?

There are a lot of possibilities here including the possibility that it’s just a bad battery. With the battery fully charged, disconnect it and let it sit overnight. If it’s dead in the morning it’s just the battery. Pull the negative cable and put a test light between it at the negative post. If there is a heavy draw the light will light up fully. If it is dim, keeping the test light in place, put a volt meter on putting the negative lead on the battery’s negative post and the positive lead on the negative cable. It will tell you how much voltage is being drawn. Then, start pulling fuses until the voltage drops down. Keep in mind that there are components that do draw current like the ECM, radio, etc… but they should only be a few volts. Also keep in mind that the alternator, which is kinda a common problem with regards to current draws, doesn’t go through a fuse so if you don’t find anything else disconnect it and see if the draw goes away.

Hello all! Long time reader, first time poster. I also have no spark and I've done all the checks listed in this thread. Before I go into my long story, I'd just like to ask a question. Even if my timing is way off, I should still get a spark using a spark checking tool like the one shown at the top of the page, right? Also, being new here, should I continue with my problem on this thread since it is similar, or should I start another one? I've got a long description of what has happened and what I have tried, but I don't want everyone to go through all of their explanations again that are already on this thread. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the forum!

You might as well start another thread....that way we all know it is a different car, and have all the info on that car in one thread.

Hello everyone,

I just wanted to pop in and say thanks for all the great tips.

I was having this same problem. My car (87 2.8 SE) died cruising at 40mph, and wouldn't start or fire. I followed the instructions in this thread, and troubleshot it to the ignition module. I took it to the local parts store, and they tested and failed it. I bought a new one for about 40 bucks, and fired right up once I got it back together.

An interesting side-effect of replacing the module was - it cured an issue I was having with the headlights and gauges flickering at idle. They were kind of pulsing with the rhythm of the engine, and I spent some time previously working on it (mostly cleaning grounds), but never found the problem. Apparently it was the module...

Anyway, thanks again for the great tips.

James