Well this is a long awaited, extremely researched topic for me and I want to start this project soon. First off, im not looking to sink more than $500 in painting my 86 GT and for that reason, I am undecided between a traditional paint job or a rustoleum paint job. I would really like to do a traditional paint job because: Learn about painting cars and the Longevity and quality of the job. But what attracts me to the rustoleum job is the price and considerably easier process.
But after reading through all of these threads from the rustoleum topic and the traditional paint job (most notably DeLorean's thread), I have to straighten some info out, and find some answers to my questions.
First my questions:
1. What is the minimum temp and humidity level that my work area can be? 2. Is it safe to paint in my garage if its attached to my house? (i personally dont think so) 3. Am I missing anything from this list of required materials for traditional paint jobs? -Air Compressor with a minimum of a 30 Gallon tank (Does it have to be 30 gallon?) -HVLP Spray Gun -Point of use air line filter -Good Clean Air Line -DA sander (Is there a electric alternative I can use like an orbital sander?) -Red scotch brite pads -180-320 DA paper -1000-1500 Wet sanding paper -Masking tape and Paper -Wax and Grease remover -Lacquer Thinner -Latex Gloves -3M painting mask 4.What paint materials do I need and quantity (basecoat, clear, primer, etc.)? 5.Where do you suggest is the best place to get the above for a good price? 6.How much time between primer and base coat? Time between base coats? Time between final base coat and clear? 7.Suggested filler for cracked missing chuncks by sunroof? Bondo? Something vette? 8. Should I take off the black molding when I paint or just tape it? 9. Want my car to look exactly how it does know as far as color of stripe and color of the car. But I want to paint the single stripe. Should I paint if after the base coats and how many coats? 10. 2-3 coats of base and 2-3 coats of clear correct?
Thats all I can think off right now but I will update as questions come to me. I know I asked alot of questions and some of you might think that If I ask all these questions then I probably should be painting my car, but i really want to have the satisfaction of doing it myself and making my car look great! So If anyone has some answers or tips for me that would be greatly appreciated! If anyone wants to see what the car looks like now, you can click the link in my sig. Like I said earlier, I want it to look exactly the same!
Bump! I really would like to get some answers. A shop will let me paint the car in there both with paint for "a few hundrd dollars". So I want to no if I should do that, or paint it home, or Rusto job?? I need opinions! Please help me out so I can start paint ASAP!
But what attracts me to the rustoleum job is the price and considerably easier process.
It really isn't, its much more time consuming and labor intensive- but you do save a good few bucks on paint costs. Remember that if you decided to repaint with something thats not rustoleum- you will need a "new" set of panels.
IMO I'd just paint it in the driveway on a day that theres no wind and optimal weather conditions.
Hell maybe you can spray my car while you're at it
Hopefully someone can chime in on the specifics of the process.
[This message has been edited by nitroheadz28 (edited 04-19-2012).]
I no bro i definettly want to just shoot it instead of "rustoing" it considering how much work I put into preping the damn thing! lol But yea I need a pro like rogergarrison to help me out some of these questions! *cough cough*
I get my paint from TCP global, their "Restoration Shop" paint is basically economy PPG, You need base coat and clear coat (kit), Grease and wax remover, Primer, If their is no damage use 220 before primer and 320 after, if your spraying metallic you might want to go up to 400-500, You don't need a DA i hardly use mine, I would get a harbor freight NON HVLP gun, they spray a much nicer finish and don't require as good of an air compressor, and definitely a good respirator. You can spray in an attached garage just make sure you have good seals on the doors and it might also be a good idea to put a towel along the bottom of the door to help keep the fumes out.
Step 1. I would remove the fenders, rockers, 1/4 panels and the belt line molding and all other common sense stuff like that and paint it separate Step 2. (if not changing color and the original paint is in good condition skip this step) Sand the car with 220, mask,Use grease and wax remover, and prime with a quality 2 part primer and allow to cure Step 3. Dry or wet sand with 320, (400 for metallic or 500 for Silver) and wipe down with grease and wax remover Step 4. wet down the floor in your garage to keep the dust down, and put some box fans under your garage door blowing out Step 5. Use a tack cloth and Spray 2-3 coats of base coat (dark colors cover faster) let flash for 30 min Step 6. Use a tack cloth and Apply clear coat, 2 wet coats spray the first one how you want the last one to look Step 7. Grab a beer and wait for it to dry Step 8. wet sand and polish as necessary.
Proper automotive paint will last far longer than rustolium, i don't know about you but i hate doing thing twice
Well this is a long awaited, extremely researched topic for me and I want to start this project soon. First off, im not looking to sink more than $500 in painting my 86 GT and for that reason, I am undecided between a traditional paint job or a rustoleum paint job. I would really like to do a traditional paint job because: Learn about painting cars and the Longevity and quality of the job. But what attracts me to the rustoleum job is the price and considerably easier process.
But after reading through all of these threads from the rustoleum topic and the traditional paint job (most notably DeLorean's thread), I have to straighten some info out, and find some answers to my questions.
First my questions:
1. What is the minimum temp and humidity level that my work area can be? 2. Is it safe to paint in my garage if its attached to my house? (i personally dont think so) 3. Am I missing anything from this list of required materials for traditional paint jobs? -Air Compressor with a minimum of a 30 Gallon tank (Does it have to be 30 gallon?) -HVLP Spray Gun -Point of use air line filter -Good Clean Air Line -DA sander (Is there a electric alternative I can use like an orbital sander?) -Red scotch brite pads -180-320 DA paper -1000-1500 Wet sanding paper -Masking tape and Paper -Wax and Grease remover -Lacquer Thinner -Latex Gloves -3M painting mask 4.What paint materials do I need and quantity (basecoat, clear, primer, etc.)? 5.Where do you suggest is the best place to get the above for a good price? 6.How much time between primer and base coat? Time between base coats? Time between final base coat and clear? 7.Suggested filler for cracked missing chuncks by sunroof? Bondo? Something vette? 8. Should I take off the black molding when I paint or just tape it? 9. Want my car to look exactly how it does know as far as color of stripe and color of the car. But I want to paint the single stripe. Should I paint if after the base coats and how many coats? 10. 2-3 coats of base and 2-3 coats of clear correct?
Thats all I can think off right now but I will update as questions come to me. I know I asked alot of questions and some of you might think that If I ask all these questions then I probably should be painting my car, but i really want to have the satisfaction of doing it myself and making my car look great! So If anyone has some answers or tips for me that would be greatly appreciated! If anyone wants to see what the car looks like now, you can click the link in my sig. Like I said earlier, I want it to look exactly the same!
Thanks everyone, Tony
1) Probably around 60 degrees, but better to be hotter. Humidity doesn't really matter with base/clear. 2) Yes. Only thing you need to watch out for is open flames such as gas water heater. 3) Need a compressor with a CFM rating that covers the paint gun. Electric sander will work. IMO you also want PPG DP epoxy primer to seal the whole car before painting. 1000 wet on a paint paddle (for the flat areas) & then 2000 wet on a sponge pad before buffing. Tac rag. Bounty paper towels work well for wax/grease remover. 4) Besides the PPG primer, on a budget job shoot it with Dupont Nason base/clear. 5) local autobody supply. 6) 30 minutes after priming to start shooting paint: read the tech sheet for the paint for the rest. 7) http://gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=469.0 8) Yes. 9) Shoot the case coat, wait ~30 minutes, tape off the stripe & shoot it, shoot the clear. You'll want to shoot 4 coats of clear on the edges of the stripe in order to be able to sand it smooth. 10) Depends on the color. Most base will cover in 2 coats, some more translucent colors need as much as 4, even more transparent colors might need 5 or 6. I'd got with 3 coats of clear & as I said go over the edges of the stripe with another coat. EDIT: Add another 1/4" blue stripe on both sides of your center one, with a 1/4" white between them. You'll be surprised how it will bring it out. HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I agree on most of the above. A lot of the differences is just material. I dont use 2 part primer ever (just my choice and thats all I'll say on that). If Im going to color sand and buff, I never put more than 3 coats at the most (different brands of paint have thinner or thicker clear, and one I use does not use any reducer). With that I can even color sand with a DA sander with 1200. I always dry sand prep so I dont have water seeping out for a week before paint. You will need a pretty good compressor as an HVLP gun moves a lot of air (but less material). I also agree adding another small stripe around the stripe border really makes a nice finished look. between base color coats, i just make sure its all turned flat or dry to touch. Clear coats I wait only till its just a little sticky, by touching the paper next to it. You can use an electric sander.....just make sure its a random orbital type, not just a back and forth or circular. Theres hundreds of threads on paint if you search that will prob answer any other questions you have.
------------------ In body/paint business since 1964. Owned my own shop for 30 years...retired 2008. Still plays with cars.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 04-20-2012).]
Thanks so much for getting back to me guys! I appreciate all the help I can get!
As far as paint and quanity:
1. Do you advise against a single stage urethane? Would I be better off just going with a base coat/ clear coat system? 2. Im looking to do the whole car, spoiler and jams... How much primer, base, paint for the stripe, and clear will I need? 3. Whats the cure full time for urethane paint? 4. Would you suggest shooting jams and stripe first, then shoot the rest of the car? 5. Any specifice fiero pieces that should come off and paint seperate? (Headlight doors, spoiler) 6. Do either of you have any experience with UPOL? I was told its a good quality cheap primer 7. Do either of you have any experience with TCPGLOBAL.COM's restoration shop paint? If so do you suggest it? 8. What should the pressure be to operate the gun? (Not the pressure at the tip because my gun doesnt have a gauge)
Thats all I can think of for now but I really appreciate the help!
Thanks so much for getting back to me guys! I appreciate all the help I can get!
As far as paint and quanity:
1. Do you advise against a single stage urethane? Would I be better off just going with a base coat/ clear coat system? 2. Im looking to do the whole car, spoiler and jams... How much primer, base, paint for the stripe, and clear will I need? 3. Whats the cure full time for urethane paint? 4. Would you suggest shooting jams and stripe first, then shoot the rest of the car? 5. Any specifice fiero pieces that should come off and paint seperate? (Headlight doors, spoiler) 6. Do either of you have any experience with UPOL? I was told its a good quality cheap primer 7. Do either of you have any experience with TCPGLOBAL.COM's restoration shop paint? If so do you suggest it? 8. What should the pressure be to operate the gun? (Not the pressure at the tip because my gun doesnt have a gauge)
Thats all I can think of for now but I really appreciate the help!
Thanks again, Tony
Paint type is simply your choice. Clearcoat is a bit more durable.
Some cars I do the jams first and mask them, others i do the car and come back to do the jams...just depends on the car. It takes a lot of masking, but I have done some that I covered the door opening inside with plastic and painted both at same time. You do have to mask it really well or the hardened paint gets in your interior where its impossible to get all off. You should take off side moldings, but if your careful masking its fine to leave them on if you dont want to have to buy new clips to reattach them. There so old and brittle, practically guarantee most will break. I guess the Fiero Store does sell new replacements.
How much paint and primer you use depends on your gun, your expertise and the paint itself. Some people get a gallon of color and a gallon of clear. I can easily do a Fiero with a quart of each except for a few colors. You should have a better idea when you spray your primer.
The pressure depends on your gun. Some use as little as 7 pnds, others 60 pnds. Find out what your gun recommends. You can set the pressure at a regulator/ trap or on the compressor. I strongly suggest a water trap in the line with a regulator on it.
On a Fiero, i take out headlite doors and tail lights. I take off the wing or rack if equipped. You should take off mirrors, but not really necessary if you make sure you cover it well. If the windshield trim is still flexible to any extent, I use a putty knife to push a length of like 12-14 gauge electric wire in the outside edge to lift it off the roof. After you paint it and it dries, just pull out the wire and rubber will reseat. Ive never heard of TCP or UPOL
S2028: 2.1 VOC Compliant NC Primer appears to be pretty much what I use. It is not a 2 part catalyzed primer. It just needs reduced and wont harden up in your gun if left in. I cant say anything about the paint as I have never used it. I think the 2282 is the same thing pre-reduced as I read it." (Wet or dry sand, clean and dry thoroughly, UP2282 may then be over-painted with most paintsystems. UP2282 should be overcoated within 6 hours of application) ".
