I am putting my 2.8 back together and got to the timing chain cover and realized that there is a notch out on the top left side of where the waterpump mounts. I can't remember if there was a stud there that held the timing chain cover on with a nut that holds the waterpump on. Or just a bolt the goes through the hole thing.

I forgot to take a pic, which would have made explaining a little easier.

If someone has a picture of a waterpump mounted, that would help me out a lot!

Thanks,
Nick

How's this?

This an 85 if it is of any help. There is a bolt in the hole right above the notch. You have to be very careful tightening the bolt so you don't break the pump. GM actually made a tool so you didn't over tighten it. Just be careful and snug it up. Don't forget to put sealer on the threads of the two bolts that go into the water jacket.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 07-18-2011).]

Perfect! Thanks for pictures guys!

Do either one of you remember the size and thread pitch of these bolts? I'm thinkin I really should replace them with some new ones.

Bloozberry, did you replace some with torx or allen bolts?

The torx bolts were stock as well as the two studs (at least on all the engines I've rebuilt), but I replaced the rest with stainless since it's not a high strength application and they're prone to corrosion in this area. I might have a list of all the different sizes you need for the water pump and housing... I'll have a look to see if I can find it and post back here if I do later on.

I'm not sure why the engineers designed the timing cover with that notch in it... doesn't make sense. Anyway, when I install a water pump on a Fiero V6, I reduce the torque a little bit on that one bolt, to avoid cracking the water pump.

If you have a salvage yard nearby, check to see if they have other cars with a 2.8 V6. Some of them will have standard (hex head) bolts on the water pump, instead of those Torx POS's.

At the top there was supposed to be a stud-headed bolt, a bolt with a threaded stud sticking out the top. The reason for this was to make sure the timing cover was held in place at the top when removing the water pump. The water pump bolts hold the top of the timing cover in place, and prying improperly can break the timing cover seal to the block. The factory didn't use that stud bolt AFAIK on any Fiero.

Mine never had the TORX style bolts in it. As far as I know, I am the only person who has replaced the waterpump and all my bolts are hex style... weird.

Jazzman, It shows in the Factory Service Manual just that. A stud that holds the timing cover on and a nut that holds the waterpump. I was confused though, as I didn't have a stud/nut combo that size. I hate this Factory Service Manual. It's completely vague on nearly every operation in the book. The only use I have had for it was gap clearences for the rings, main bearings, and rod bearings.

The manual was a copy and paste from the X-platform cars like the Citation and Omega. The only new info is that which is unique to the Fiero such as the suspension and ECM diagnosis info. The TORX bolts weren't introduced until the '88 model year IIRC.

quote Originally posted by Dodgerunner: ... Don't forget to put sealer on the threads of the two bolts that go into the water jacket.

which bolts are them in the pic?
what kind of sealer on the threads?

thanks...

------------------

www.northtexasfieroclub.org

First post in this thread might be helpful: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/110635.html

quote Originally posted by imacflier: First post in this thread might be helpful: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/110635.html

thanks that's exactly what i needed. now i see how i miss those threads, my search skills only looked for "waterpump" instead of "water pump".

what kind of sealer on the threads, i know they say RTV but which one there's are many to choose from?

thanks...

quote Originally posted by Tom Slick: which bolts are them in the pic? what kind of sealer on the threads? thanks...

I just did mine tonight.
The 4 biggest ones that go on either side of the water jackets that pass through the timing cover.
heres the sealant, Liquid teflon.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-11-2011).]

Tom,

Since you are in there, I think it is the perfect time to put in the spring loaded idler designed and sold by Dodgerunner. Scrolling up, you can see what it looks like in the pic posted by dodgerunner. It ABSOLUTELY solves the squeeling belt problem!

More importantly, in my opinion, it will substantially increase the life of the WP and the alternator since you need not tighted the hell out of the belt to stop belt slippage and that over tightening kill the bearings.

BTW, if you use antiseize, I think the TORX bolts are great....not so much if they corrode in place if you don't, though.

peep this thread if you like, recently did our water pump on the 86 2.8

www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/116567.html

hope the link works...making the template really was a great help in keeping bolts in the proper holes. somewhere in that linked thread is a post that tells which bolts get rtv and which get anti-sieze

quote Originally posted by imacflier: Tom, Since you are in there, I think it is the perfect time to put in the spring loaded idler designed and sold by Dodgerunner. Scrolling up, you can see what it looks like in the pic posted by dodgerunner. It ABSOLUTELY solves the squeeling belt problem! More importantly, in my opinion, it will substantially increase the life of the WP and the alternator since you need not tighted the hell out of the belt to stop belt slippage and that over tightening kill the bearings. BTW, if you use antiseize, I think the TORX bolts are great....not so much if they corrode in place if you don't, though.

i believe in DR product that's why i had them on two of my three Fieros at the time, sold one of the Fieros. So I need to get another one for the one without.

i got my WP put back in and filled with coolant only to find a leak.

from this figure which bolts need sealant?
my leak is between bolts 5 and 7 where the lower coolant hose connects to.
i didn't put RTV on those bolts cause i read that only bolt 4 goes thru on an '88.

thanks...

quote Originally posted by hercimer01: heres the sealant, Liquid teflon.

That the right stuff, but its important to understand that that isn't "liquid Teflon", it's thread sealant with Teflon in it. Teflon is a lubricant, not a sealant.

Dumb question, How'd you dress the gasket? I put a layer, (not a bead) just a thin layer, of RTV on the block side of the gasket. Put the gasket against the block, then applied another thin layer of RTV on the water pump side of the gasket.Then stuck the water pump on. Couldn't hurt right? And it hasn't leaked yet..Knock on wood.

Also bolts 2, 8, 9, and 11 pass through the water jacket IIRC. I'd have to double check that to be sure tho. It's the yellow ones on that template IIRC. Those are the ones that need RTV.

Hope any of this helps and keep us updated pls!

Edit: Also srry to ask but did you give it some cure time?

[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 10-17-2011).]

quote Originally posted by weloveour86se: Dumb question, How'd you dress the gasket? I put a layer, (not a bead) just a thin layer, of RTV on the block side of the gasket. Put the gasket against the block, then applied another thin layer of RTV on the water pump side of the gasket.Then stuck the water pump on. Couldn't hurt right? And it hasn't leaked yet..Knock on wood. Also bolts 2, 8, 9, and 11 pass through the water jacket IIRC. I'd have to double check that to be sure tho. It's the yellow ones on that template IIRC. Those are the ones that need RTV. Hope any of this helps and keep us updated pls! Edit: Also srry to ask but did you give it some cure time?

I put a layer on the WP then attached the gasket then another layer on the gasket then installed the WP. I put RTV on bolt #4 and no others, then the car sat for 48 hours before I filled with coolant. Guess I need to pull the other bolts and put RTV on them.
Thanks

quote Originally posted by Tom Slick: I put a layer on the WP then attached the gasket then another layer on the gasket then installed the WP. I put RTV on bolt #4 and no others, then the car sat for 48 hours before I filled with coolant. Guess I need to pull the other bolts and put RTV on them. Thanks

Double check with others here about what bolts get what dressing and make sure I got my imfo right. But I'm pretty sure about bolts 2 8 9 11 needing rtv. The other I used anti-sieze on all the other bolts. not sure if the anti-sieze was necessary but I ran with it.. Good luck and welcome to the WP club! I've heard some here say it's sort of a right of passage. lol

I'm not a mechanic but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

i put sealant on bolts 5 and 7 and i still have a leak, so i pulled the WP off.
where in the hell could it be leaking?

thanks...

I bought a water pump from the Fierostore and it didn't come with a bracket to hold the timing cover in place on my 1988GT. I called them up and they said it wasn't needed. They indicated not to worry about the timing cover/gasket coming loose from the block. They said just dislodge the water pump with a rubber mallet, after the bolts are out, and pry gently with a screw driver. A google search even indicated to disregard the bracket when it came with the water pump (The Fiero Factory - Tech Section). The Haynes manual and the Service manual also don't mention any dangers related to the timing cover gasket separating from the block. Others indicate it is critical to have this bracket in place and that without it it is very likely the timing cover will separate from the block upon removing the bolts. I think this bracket somehow connects to one of the alternator bracket bolts and then to the timing cover. I may fabricate/buy a bracket or just be very careful when removing the water pump and hoping for the best. Sorry for the long rambling, just trying to find a definative answer.